Estimating extra reach (resolving power) of crop vs FF

Come on folks!
Quoting all the whizz bang factors and theoretical pro's and cons means precisely nothing!
Get out and shoot some shots with the various sensor sizes and see which works for you.
The last comparative trial I did was to try a friends 7D on my Canon 800 F5.6 L IS, at the time had just bought a 1DX and still had my 1D4. All cameras were set the same for metering. shutter speed, aperture etc. As expected the 7D and 1D4 made the subject (a co-operative Moorhen) larger in the frame but the 1DX gave significantly more pleasing images. Note the bird was stationery so not an AF test.
True this was far from a scientific experiment but who cares - I certainly don't! Since moving to exclusively full frame I am getting more keepers and better ones at that, yes I do have to crop a little more with my 1DX but the files hold up much better than the other 2 cameras.
Try them out for yourself and see and if you prefer camera X then go for it. For me, being focal length challenged, I prefer the results that I am getting with my full frame camera, after all it is only 90% reach - that other 10% makes all the difference!
 
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AlanF said:
Here is a way of calculating the effective extra reach or resolving power of a crop body versus FF, which will amuse the geeks among us.

Measure the MTF of a lens on the crop (= MTFcrop) and the same lens on the FF (= MTFff). The ratio of the MTFs, MTFcrop/MTFff, gives the relative resolving power of the bodies with that lens. However, the crop body can be placed 1.6x further away to give the same field of view. Therefore, the true effective relative resolving power, R, is given by:

R = 1.6x MTFcrop/MTFff.

Photozone lists measured MTFs for a set of lenses on the 5DII and 50D. I calculated their ratios for the Canon 200mm f/2.8 II, 85mm f/1.2 II and 35mm f/2 at wide apertures below the DLA. MTFcrop/MTFff is very close to 0.726 in all cases.

This gives R for 50D/5DII = 1.16.

So the effective extra reach is 16%. (Based on the ratio of their pixel sizes, a value of 36% is expected.

The dpreview widget gives values for the 5DIII and 7D only for a few lenses. I did the same calculations with the Tamron 150-600mm (between 150-400mm), the Canon 200-400mm and the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 A at wider apertures below the DLA. In all cases, MTFcrop/MTFff is close to 0.742.

This gives R for 7D/5DIII = 1.19.

So, the effective extra reach is 19%. (Based on the ratio of their pixel sizes, a value of 45% is expected).


Interesting stuff! I think it's a useful formula...and I think it gives realistic results that mirror my experiences.

AlanF said:
There are always arguments about using MTFs quantitatively, but I think in this particular calculation it is reasonably valid to use them. It fits in reasonably well with experience - Jon has shown there is better resolving power in photos of the moon with the 7D, but it doesn't look 45% better. And my own experience is that the 7D and 70D aren't much better than the 5DIII, certainly not 1.6x.

I think your numbers jive with my experiences, and perceptually the difference between the moon photos I shared on my thread about reach limited resolving power seems to be about 20%.

I think we need to be honest about what that means, though. If we were talking about 3-5%, which is often the margin of error of these kinds of calculations (since they are based of of empirical data), then I would agree...the difference would effectively be "meaningless" or "irrelevant".

However...between the 7D and 5D III, or the 70D and 5D III for that matter (and possibly the 7D II and 5D III even), were talking about a TWENTY PERCENT DIFFERENCE. Twenty percent! That's a pretty big difference. It's well beyond the margin of error. I usually use the term "meaningful difference" myself...and I would call a 20% difference meaningful.

I spent many years of my younger days overclocking CPUs. I spent huge sums of money buying the latest and greatest, top of the line CPUs, I water cooled (still do, actually), I overclocked. All for a few percent gain in performance, all to top the 3DMark charts or CPU benchmark. The reduction in times between executing certain tasks, such as ripping music or encoding video or playing games was often meaningful as well. Before a new CPU or an overclock, it might have frequently been the case that playing Game XYZ would drop below the 30fps limit, where frame stutter would start showing up...and that extra 5-8% worth of processing power from the new CPU or overclock would tip the scales and keep the games frame rate over 30fps. When a new CPU came out that had a 10% improvement in performance over the prior "top of the line" competitor, it was really huge news! That meant just buying the new CPU meant your Game XYZ performance would top 30fps, and you could then overclock, and get that minimum frame rate even higher! (Ah, the good ol' days of early 3D PC gaming... *memories* :P)

Were talking about precision devices here. The differences are never going to be massive. A 50% difference between two sensors would be truly massive, and more than just a "meaningful difference"...it would be a very obvious, very significant difference. It would be truly game-changing. Two additional stops of DR on the D800 was game changing (as much as people here don't like to admit it...it really was). Were not talking about that kind of difference in resolution between APS-C and FF most of the time...but, neither are we talking about a meaningless difference.

It's twenty percent. That's meaningful. It's visible. Assuming that you hand-hold a 5D III the same way you hand-hold a 7D, all else being equal (i.e. assuming you lock on AF and are successfully tracking your subject)...any issues introduced by hand-holding the cameras don't actually have anything to do with the cameras. A small amount of camera shake is going to affect the images of both...especially if your already resolution-limited on the sensor with bigger pixels (it's the same angular movement regardless, and since your reach limited...I don't see why it would affect one less than the other unless the movement was VERY small...say 1/3rd the size of a pixel or less, however then, the impact to IQ is going to be minuscule anyway.)
 
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I'm with Jon on the comments of 20% being meaningful. When I spent $7k on the 300 2.8 II I immediately compared it to my 70-300 Nikon zoom on the D5100 and was quite disappointed to see the 300 really didn't outperfom it by much mounted on my 6D - that is relative to resolution of detail. However, it has proved to be an awful lot better in other respects and I'm happy with it.

My friend was waiting to purchase and we beat all this to death. My comment to him was that all those thousands of $$ were going into making a lens that was "maybe 20% better". I value that "maybe 20% better".

Jack
 
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Thanks Jon. What I tried to do was put some numbers behind the long running debate and help me in my choice of gear. 20% is the difference between a 600mm and a 500mm lens, which is useful, but a 500 on a crop is not equivalent to an 800 on FF in terms of resolution.

I am very happy with both my 5DIII and 70D. For much of my time, I take bird photos where the little charmers occupy far less than the crop sensor area and so the 70D represents phenomenal value. For birds in flight, the 1.6x wider field of view for the same lens makes it easier with the FF. And, as others point out, FF is less demanding for hand-held work. The factor of 1.6 in field of view increases the effects of camera shake by approximately 60% for crop for a gain of 20% gain in resolution.
 
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privatebydesign said:
That might be true in a testing scenario, but few of us shoot in those. Factor in AF, handholding, higher than base iso, less than ideal aperture or shutter speed etc etc etc and the differences become minimal, as so many people who have owned both have attested to.

If by so many people you mean yourself and two people on FM. So three people. ;)
 
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privatebydesign said:
AlanF said:
privatebydesign said:
That might be true in a testing scenario, but few of us shoot in those. Factor in AF, handholding, higher than base iso, less than ideal aperture or shutter speed etc etc etc and the differences become minimal, as so many people who have owned both have attested to.

That doesn't mean there is no point to a 7D, 70D 7D MkII, as a compliment to a 6D etc one might work very well, but the resolution thing really is a red herring unless you are using a heavy tripod, 10X live view manual focus blah blah.........

What the estimates tell you is that even if you have a heavy tripod, base iso etc you will gain only a small increase in reach, and not 60%.

I've been saying that for years and practically nobody agreed with me, it is great to see the winds of change, finally. ;)

I deliberately stayed out of the last 5D MkIII and 7D reach comparison thread, it was interesting that after ironing out some flawed methodology the same conclusions were drawn that I did a long time ago, albeit to the utter disdain and disbelief of the then only 7D owning OP.

I wonder if people will believe me on some of the other contentious stuff I say now too? I doubt it..........

Less so, since my 'lab' test and field experience with 7D (before I sold it off) and 5D2/5D3 very much told me otherwise. And same goes for the accomplished bird photography Romy who posts here from time to time.
 
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Andyx01 said:
I'm sure this thread is full of bad information all around, and I'm not even going to read the previous posts.
If you want to know how to convert back and forth here are the facts.

FF is 2.56X larger than APSC (1.6X crop factor - 1.6 * 1.6 = 2.56)
If you have an APSC Body with a given lens, and want to obtain the same framing, depth of field, and ISO noise on a FF use the following math:
Crop to Full Frame:
Length * 1.6
Aperature * 1.6
ISO * 2.56

i.e. a
100mm f/2.8 lens @ ISO 400 on a Crop body camera will take the same picture as
160mm f/4.48 lens @ ISO 1024 on a Full Frame body.

To convert the other way, the math is:
Length / 1.6
Aperature / 1.6
ISO / 2.56

i.e. a Full Frame with an 85mm f/1.8 lens shooting at ISO 320 =
a Crop body 53mm f/1.1 lens shooting at ISO 125

As far as cropping a Full frame image down to an APSC size, the pixels on target are FF MP divided by 2.56
i.e. 22MP / 2.56 = roughly 8.6MP on target.

If your lens has the resolving power to see the added resolution, then there ya go, use a crop body for extra reach.

not if you are reached limited, for FOV yeah it's just 1.6xs factor, but that is meaningless when the goal is to get pixels on something far away, FOV doesn't matter at all
 
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We are talking about comparable resolution capabilities, the bit you sum up as "If your lens has the resolving power to see the added resolution", that is the bit we are talking about.
[/quote]

I fail to see why crop v.s. FF is part of this topic when you clearly and accurately suggested it is about sensor density v.s. lens resolving power. The original author might as well have posted "Estimating extra reach (resolving power) of Canon v.s. Sony. - Makes as much sense.

Which brings us full circle - There is no extra 'reach' on Crop v.s. Full Frame, the diffraction limits are the same either way.

The Subject should read:"Estimating extra reach (resolving power) increased sensor densities provide for a given lens.
 
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Andyx01 said:
We are talking about comparable resolution capabilities, the bit you sum up as "If your lens has the resolving power to see the added resolution", that is the bit we are talking about.

I fail to see why crop v.s. FF is part of this topic when you clearly and accurately suggested it is about sensor density v.s. lens resolving power. The original author might as well have posted "Estimating extra reach (resolving power) of Canon v.s. Sony. - Makes as much sense.

Which brings us full circle - There is no extra 'reach' on Crop v.s. Full Frame, the diffraction limits are the same either way.

The Subject should read:"Estimating extra reach (resolving power) increased sensor densities provide for a given lens.

It doesn't really matter what the title of the thread is. The simple FACT of the matter is that smaller sensors nearly universally have smaller pixels than larger sensors. ONE large sensor has a lot of pixels, the 36.3mp Exmor, however even it's pixels are still larger than the pixels on the vast majority of modern day crop cameras. It doesn't matter if we call it "Estimating the extra reach of crop vs FF" or "Estimating the extra reach of small vs. large pixels". That's quibbling over semantics. Since smaller sensors are nearly guaranteed to have smaller pixels, the current title works fine.

Next, however, the whole notion that either a lens or sensor "sees" the resolving power of the other is a fallacy. I've explained this countless times on these forums, but here it goes again.

OUTPUT RESOLUTION (the measurable resolution of the image produced by a CAMERA, for the purposes of this post, defined as Lens+Sensor), is the CONVOLUTION of the resolution of the real scene as it's light passes through the lens and is recorded by the sensor. That's the key word here, convolution. Cameras convolve information. While it is possible for a lens to resolve 86lp/mm at f/8, and a sensor to have the ability to separate 116lp/mm, the notion that the sensor "outresolves" the lens at f/8 is a misnomer. What is really happening is the lens and sensor are working together to produce a BLUR SPOT. The size of that blur spot is what determines the resolution of the OUTPUT IMAGE.

We can very closely approximate the resolution of lenses and sensors by using the following formula:

Code:
blurSpot = SQRT(lensSpot^2 + sensorSpot^2)

The spot size of a lens can be computed by multiplying the resolving power in line pairs per millimeter, multiplying by two, and taking the reciprocal:

Code:
lensSpot = 1/(lensRes*2)

We can further convert the blur spot into spatial resolution by using the following formula:

Code:
spatRes = (1/blurSpot) / 2

We can combine these formulas into one single formula to take :

Code:
spatRes = (1/SQRT(lensSpot^2 + sensorSpot^2)) / 2

If we have a 1D X, 5D III, D800, 70D, and D5300 then (let's just assume they are monochrome sensors, for the sake of simplicity) each of those has a sensor spot of:

Code:
1DX: 6.92µm
5DIII: 6.25µm
D800: 4.9µm
70D: 4.16µm
D5300: 3.9µm

If we use the same theoretical lens, one which performs ideally at all apertures, on all five of these cameras, at apertures of f/2, f/4, and f/8, then the lenses DIFFRACTION LIMITED resolving powers are:

Code:
f/2: 346lp/mm
f/4: 173lp/mm
f/8: 86lp/mm

Converting these to spot sizes:

Code:
f/2: 1/(346*2) = 0.0014mm (1.4µm)
f/4: 1/(173*2) = 0.0029mm (2.9µm)
f/8: 1/(86*2) = 0.0058mm (5.8µm)

Running the numbers, we get the following:

Code:
1DX f/2: (1/SQRT(0.0014^2 + 0.00692^2)) / 2 = 71lp/mm
1DX f/4: (1/SQRT(0.0029^2 + 0.00692^2)) / 2 = 66.8lp/mm
1DX f/8: (1/SQRT(0.0058^2 + 0.00692^2)) / 2 = 55.5lp/mm

5DIII f/2: (1/SQRT(0.0014^2 + 0.00625^2)) / 2 = 107lp/mm
5DIII f/4: (1/SQRT(0.0029^2 + 0.00625^2)) / 2 = 94.6lp/mm
5DIII f/8: (1/SQRT(0.0058^2 + 0.00625^2)) / 2 = 68.6lp/mm

D800 f/2: (1/SQRT(0.0014^2 + 0.0049^2)) / 2 = 134lp/mm
D800 f/4: (1/SQRT(0.0029^2 + 0.0049^2)) / 2 = 111lp/mm
D800 f/8: (1/SQRT(0.0058^2 + 0.0049^2)) / 2 = 74lp/mm

70D f/2: (1/SQRT(0.0014^2 + 0.00416^2)) / 2 = 153.5lp/mm
70D f/4: (1/SQRT(0.0029^2 + 0.00416^2)) / 2 = 121lp/mm
70D f/8: (1/SQRT(0.0058^2 + 0.00416^2)) / 2 = 76lp/mm

D5300 f/2: (1/SQRT(0.0014^2 + 0.0039^2)) / 2 = 161.6lp/mm
D5300 f/4: (1/SQRT(0.0029^2 + 0.0039^2)) / 2 = 125lp/mm
D5300 f/8: (1/SQRT(0.0058^2 + 0.0039^2)) / 2 = 77lp/mm

Again, these are all theoretically diffraction limited apertures. Assuming such a case, small pixels, even the very small pixels of the D5300 are STILL resolving more detail at a diffraction limited f/8, which has a maximum theoretical resolution of 86lp/mm, than any of the full frame cameras with bigger pixels. There are diminishing returns, however the D5300 still enjoys over a 4% OUTPUT IMAGE resolution lead over the D800, and it enjoys a very large lead of 12.3% over the 5D III and a whopping 38.7% lead over the 1D X.

This is a DIFFRACTION LIMITED sensor. The notion that a higher resolution sensor cannot benefit at fully diffraction limited, narrow apertures like f/8, is patently false. The notion that a lens that is not resolving more than the sensor "cannot see" the resolution of the sensor is patently false. The two, lens and sensor, WORK TOGETHER to produce the final output resolution. In actuality, the specifics are certainly more complicated. Lenses tend NOT to be diffraction limited at wider apertures, and optical aberrations, of which there are many that affect the convolution of the incoming wavefront in different ways, will limit resolution at wide apertures on many lenses. However the same rules apply...for any given lens spot, regardless of whether it is limited by diffraction or aberrations, is going to CONVOLVE with the sensor. Higher resolution sensors, while they will eventually reach a point of diminishing returns, are STILL going to resolve more detail than lower resolution sensors.
 
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Thanks Jon for sharing your calculations. To support experimentally what you are saying about diffraction limited aperture, the Canon SX50 has 1.54 µM pixels, giving a DLA of f/2.5. Its widest aperture at f = 1200mm effective is f/6.5, 2.6 x the dla, yet it really does still out resolve most cameras with larger pixels, as Don Haines will confirm.
 
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This stuff just gets too technical for me, so let me ask a question.

I'm standing on the side of the road on a sunny day and I'm looking at a bald eagle that is 75 meters away sitting at the top of a tree. In my camera bag is my 300mm 2.8 lens, a 7D and 5D3.

I'm shooting handheld. I don't dare move closer for fear that I scare him off.

If I'm trying to produce a final/edited image that "fills the frame" with as much detail, sharpness, and overall IQ as possible, which body do I attach to the 300mm?
 
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Northstar said:
This stuff just gets too technical for me, so let me ask a question.

I'm standing on the side of the road on a sunny day and I'm looking at a bald eagle that is 75 meters away sitting at the top of a tree. In my camera bag is my 300mm 2.8 lens, a 7D and 5D3.

I'm shooting handheld. I don't dare move closer for fear that I scare him off.

If I'm trying to produce a final/edited image that "fills the frame" with as much detail, sharpness, and overall IQ as possible, which body do I attach to the 300mm?

A fully grown bald eagle is 1 m long. The size of the image on the sensor for a 300mm lens 75 m away is 4 mm. corresponding to 930 pixels on the 7D or 640 on the 5DIII. 300mm is too short for a decent image. I would use the 300 mm + 2xTC on either camera as 1860 px on the 7D or 1280 on the 5DIII would give an excellent image. You didn't have the 2xTC in your bag, I know but that is bad planning.
 
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AlanF said:
Northstar said:
This stuff just gets too technical for me, so let me ask a question.

I'm standing on the side of the road on a sunny day and I'm looking at a bald eagle that is 75 meters away sitting at the top of a tree. In my camera bag is my 300mm 2.8 lens, a 7D and 5D3.

I'm shooting handheld. I don't dare move closer for fear that I scare him off.

If I'm trying to produce a final/edited image that "fills the frame" with as much detail, sharpness, and overall IQ as possible, which body do I attach to the 300mm?

A fully grown bald eagle is 1 m long. The size of the image on the sensor for a 300mm lens 75 m away is 4 mm. corresponding to 930 pixels on the 7D or 640 on the 5DIII. 300mm is too short for a decent image. I would use the 300 mm + 2xTC on either camera as 1860 px on the 7D or 1280 on the 5DIII would give an excellent image. You didn't have the 2xTC in your bag, I know but that is bad planning.

Alan, my friend...I'm laughing now, didn't you see the part where I said "too technical for me". :D ;D

It's a hypothetical situation. Which body should I grab?
 
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Hi,
IMHO, in the real world, it's hard to actually see the advantage of the extra resolution of the APS-C over the FF as a lot of environmental condition will limit the maximum resolution you can get... the lighting condition, air turbulence and etc. I think you can only see the advantage of the extra resolution of the APS-C over the FF is when the subject is very, very close... when all the environmental resolution "limiter" is minimize.

I had both the 60D and 6D and shoot them both together a few times and todate, I still haven't see one image from the 60D that show the advantage of the extra resolution even when pixel peeping... the subject in the 60D image is larger, but any details I can see in the 60D, I can see it in the 6D although it's smaller.

Anyway, the only advantage I find the 60D had over the 6D is that AF is more accurate when your subject is very small... I think that may be because from the AF system point of view, the subject is bigger in the 60D, so the AF is more accurate... I also see the same result in live view AF... that's why I'm consider to change my 6D to a 7D2 when it become available... I don't print my photo, so I think I can live with the inferior high ISO performance of APS-C sensor.

Have a nice day.
 
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This really has me baffled.
85mm f1.8 @ f4, 1/1250. ISO 100
Shot on 5DII and 1100D. The crop camera down sampled to match 5D as that camera works out at about 8.5 mp when cropped and the 1100D is a 12 mp aps camera. Hand held, but had to resort to live view focusing as I couldn't believe the results.

100% crops from each camera.
 

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Real world experience when I went full frame resulted in the following conclusions: The extra reach of my old crop camera produced better pictures because I could 1) see the subject larger in the viewfinder thus knowing when best to snap the pictures and 2) framed the subject larger giving me the exact (or closer to the end result) composition in the viewfinder. While cropping usually results in the same or similar composition, it doesn't always since some element that may look fine when I see it safely within the frame is now poorly placed compositionally when cropped - perhaps too near the edge of the cropped final image.

Both of those factors are more important to me in the final analysis. Making sure I can more accurately see the subject (in terms of facial expressions. head angle, etc., and compositional accuracy. If the sharpness or resolving power is reasonably close between cameras (even if the FF is slightly better), then I will still choose the crop camera for the above reasons.
 
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Northstar said:
AlanF said:
Northstar said:
This stuff just gets too technical for me, so let me ask a question.

I'm standing on the side of the road on a sunny day and I'm looking at a bald eagle that is 75 meters away sitting at the top of a tree. In my camera bag is my 300mm 2.8 lens, a 7D and 5D3.

I'm shooting handheld. I don't dare move closer for fear that I scare him off.

If I'm trying to produce a final/edited image that "fills the frame" with as much detail, sharpness, and overall IQ as possible, which body do I attach to the 300mm?

A fully grown bald eagle is 1 m long. The size of the image on the sensor for a 300mm lens 75 m away is 4 mm. corresponding to 930 pixels on the 7D or 640 on the 5DIII. 300mm is too short for a decent image. I would use the 300 mm + 2xTC on either camera as 1860 px on the 7D or 1280 on the 5DIII would give an excellent image. You didn't have the 2xTC in your bag, I know but that is bad planning.

Alan, my friend...I'm laughing now, didn't you see the part where I said "too technical for me". :D ;D

It's a hypothetical situation. Which body should I grab?

OK I'll leave out the technical stuff for you: 75 m is too far away for a 300mm for good photos of anything smaller than an ostrich so my answer is grab neither and just enjoy looking at the eagle. But, if all you want is to publish a thumbnail on the web, it won't make much difference whatever you choose.
 
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