Filters - Help!

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+1 for the Marumi Super DHG Circular Polarizer filters and use them on all my lenses. However, I don't use any other filter only the lens hood for protection. Never really understood the need for a UV filter in digital photography (film yes).
 
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wanderingwolf said:
I've heard that the B&H ones are the best.

B&H is a camera store's name, whereas B+W is a filter maker. I guess you meant the latter?

Like what others say, I love B+W. I love their XS-Pro series even more for its slim profile and front thread.

BTW, has anyone used B+W's own Vari-ND? How do you like it?

https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=1838&IID=9137
 
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The MRC makes it easier to clean.

No need for XS-Pro on those lenses, the standard F-Pro is fine. Maybe on the 24-105, but only if you plan to stack a CPL on it, else there's no worry about vignetting.
 
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neuroanatomist said:
The MRC makes it easier to clean.

No need for XS-Pro on those lenses, the standard F-Pro is fine. Maybe on the 24-105, but only if you plan to stack a CPL on it, else there's no worry about vignetting.

Thanks Neuro.
I have them lined up through a guy I know who used to import them - they are a good price. That said, I have heard that Canon caps may be problematic on the XS-Pro line, does anyone have any experience with this?
 
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The Canon caps fit fine on the XS-Pro. I have XS-Pro filters on my 17-55mm, 16-35mm II, and 24-105mm (yes, I said it's not needed, but the 16-35 uses 82mm filters, and it replaced an EF-S 10-22mm as my UWA zoom when I got a 5DII, so I just used the 77mm XS-Pro on my next-widest lens using that diameter).
 
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Thanks again. I just spotted a post on DPReview that says " I'd recommend the clear over a UV though if you're using it as a protection filter, as there is a subtle IQ impact."
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=36878300

I have had a Hoya Super Pro1 77mm UV(10) on my 17-55 for years and recently on my 24-105 and I don't notice a IQ difference, although I have never tested IQ in a controlled setting between no filter and filter.

Any thoughts on Clear vs. UV?

BTW, this was the post that mentioned the caps may not fit well, although my Hoya mentioned has never had an issue wit the 77mm cap.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&message=37554913
 
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Jamesy said:
Thanks again. I just spotted a post on DPReview that says " I'd recommend the clear over a UV though if you're using it as a protection filter, as there is a subtle IQ impact."
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=36878300

I think reading DPR forum posts has a not-so-subtle negative IQ impact - and in this case IQ does not refer to image quality. Sometimes it's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff over there, to the point where finding the correct facts is like a Where's Waldo hunt.

Case in point, the many people who stated with absolute certainty (to the point of insulting others, also the norm over there) that for B+W filters, MRC = multicoating. For the record, it doesn't - it's the scratch/dirt resisting surface coat; all their MRC filters are also multicoated, but they do make multicoated filters without the MRC coating.

Jamesy said:
Any thoughts on Clear vs. UV?

For modern dSLRs, there's no meaningful difference. Note that the references to the contrary in the DPR post are about old CCD-based cameras. I've personally tested my 5DII and found no appreciable sensitivity to 280nm or 350nm light. Yes, there could be some sensitivity just under 400nm, but it's not going to have a significant image impact. Similarly, even the best multicoated filters result in the loss of ~1% of light - a measurable impact, yes, but not a meaningful one.

So, get whichever is cheaper or more available - for B+W, that's usually UV instead of clear, but I've seen some Hoya clear filters cheaper than their UV equivalent.

In terms of quality, the B+W MRC and Hoya S-HMC and higher are optically similar. The B+W is easier to clean, as is the Hoya HD, compared to the other Hoyas. Personally, I have B+W MRC UV filters on all my lenses.

As for an optical impact, there is one - increased susceptibility to flare. That's true with even the best filters (and again, I've personally tested this with the 24-105 and 70-200 II); low quality filters cause additional problems.
 
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The best landscape photographers use filters? Hardly. Do a Google on Marc Adamus who in my mind is probably the premiere landscape shooter in North America. He posted recently that HE DOESN'T use filters.

To prove my point about the sincerity of my post, I am selling a set of Lee filters, yeah, the high quality ones and an adapter kit. Check out my website or do a google for Kijiji in Edmonton.
 
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Thanks for the input. have had no issues with my non MRC B+W UV and my Hoya Super Pro1 UV, so I will likely stick with those. I only use them to provide a better weather/dust seal and to protect the front element, I am not looking to improve IQ by using a filter.

On my 85, I have a cheap piece of glass that came with it, in most cases I unscrew it and leave it in the bag instead of shooting through it, although now I am going to re-tool all my filters so I thought I should do a bit of research prior to dropping the coin.

Thank you again!
 
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thure1982 said:
handsomerob said:
+1 for B+W filters. They are the best.

Second that, those are amazing, and you see the clarity when you hold it next to a cheaper version.

I also recommend Kenko. Really good. At least the PRO1D that I have used.
Kenko and Hoya are the same company - I think it all depends on where you buy them. It is also the same company as Tokina apparently.

I have used a Hoya Super Pro1 UV for years on my primary 17-55 walkaround and it is very good.
 
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So I just received my order of B+W XS-Pro MRC UV filters for my 24-105, 135L and 85/1.8. For those interested, the Canon OEM Ultrasonic lens cap fits but there there is a 1mm gap between the filter and the lens cap. It locks on but it is not a 100% snug fit like my thin Hoya Pro1 UV filter that I have had on my 17-55 for years.

Have any of you had any issues with caps falling off of XS-Pro filters in the past?
 
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Dan Jurak said:
The best landscape photographers use filters? Hardly. Do a Google on Marc Adamus who in my mind is probably the premiere landscape shooter in North America. He posted recently that HE DOESN'T use filters.

To prove my point about the sincerity of my post, I am selling a set of Lee filters, yeah, the high quality ones and an adapter kit. Check out my website or do a google for Kijiji in Edmonton.

That's because his shots look HDR. I can tell by the ones with the sun.

To get pics like that you can either use filters or do HDR, that's just about it. There is no other way to get that sort of range, unless ther are amazing cameras out there that I don't know about.

And yes, many of the best landscape photographers do use filters, because if you want to get good images without tons of post and HDRs it's the joy way you can do it.
 
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Jamesy said:
thure1982 said:
handsomerob said:
+1 for B+W filters. They are the best.

Second that, those are amazing, and you see the clarity when you hold it next to a cheaper version.

I also recommend Kenko. Really good. At least the PRO1D that I have used.
Kenko and Hoya are the same company - I think it all depends on where you buy them. It is also the same company as Tokina apparently.

I have used a Hoya Super Pro1 UV for years on my primary 17-55 walkaround and it is very good.
At the end of this video you can see the gap I am talking about.
B+W XS-PRO UV FILTER

Does anyone have issues with vignetting on a 24-105 with an B+W 77mm MRC UV 010 F-Pro?
 
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haha I just needed to comment on the "no filters" remark . . . .

try taking a long exposure of the ocean or a landscape with a brighter sky than the foreground, and see what hapopens to the sky! To combat that, you would have to create multiple exposures and then combine themm in PS. Instead, using a gradient filter for the sky of 1-2 stops, which you can even handhold flush in front of the lens, will allow you to do all that work with one click of the shutter. It's the "in camera" way to do things professionally for quality results. HDR is a whole other matter usingt multiple exposures and then working in post with the settings you want to achiewve a certain look . . . hopefully it's not that new "pro photographer/artist," pastel, oversaturated look ;)
 
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