FINALLY GOT A 5D3, BUT.........

bergstrom

Photographer
Feb 23, 2015
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Its not sharp on the top vertical point, so if I was doinga fashion show on atripod and shooting vertical, I'd jave to use the CENTRE POINT to get the models sharp. I red ken rockwell's review and found this..

"AF-Area Distribution

Sure, there are a lot of AF points, but they're all in a very narrow band spread from left to right. They don't go very far above or below the centerline, so for most compositions, there is no sensor where I need it.

When shooting vertically, this means that the sea of AF areas is a narrow vertical band, not reaching very far left or right."

So, what is the point in having all these outer focus points if they add nothing to the sharpness? I upgraded from a 5D2, because I was always using the centre point on that and now, after spending the money on a 5d3, I'm USING THE CENTRE POINT.

Feeling a bit let down.

Berg
 
Hi. Not sure I totally understand your comments but are you moving the focus points when you compose your photos? Push the appropriate button on the top right and then rotate the top knob and you'll see the set of focus points move around in the viewfinder until they are where you want them to be. Also, you can change the shape / size of the focus area with another maneuver hitting the appropriate back button and the small button near the shutter button and you'll see the cluster of focus points change size in the viewfinder.

Sorry if I've assumed you were not already aware of this, and perhaps you already were aware. I have not noticed any issue like you describe.

JPAZ
 
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Hi, yes I moved the focus points to the top (vertical) and the pictures weren't as sharp as I had them when i used the centre point to focus on the subject and then bring the camera back up again to where I wanted to shoot. I tried with group and single point and they still all not as sharp as the centre point. :(
 
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You attempted to shoot with the camera held vertically, the reverse side using the left eye?
A lens may have a problem of decentering side.

Have you tried other different lenses?
An EF lens that looked good on camera APS-C, you'll use the edges of the lens when used on full frame camera.
 
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Also: Always rent. Always. Always. That would have 100% caught any 'oh, wow, the AF points are too clustered for me' concerns on day one.

Reviews don't catch every pet peeve or disappoint, but personal hands-on time will catch those things in a heartbeat. Spend $100 now to find out if it's the right tool for you and prevent a much more expensive buyer's remorse.

- A
 
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That said, now that you have the rig, I'm guessing you know the deal. I think you need to systematically eliminate why the center point is sharper than your peripheral points. I'd recommend the following order to filter things down quickly:

1) Confirm it's not your focusing / composing method. Put the camera on a tripod and aim it at something fairly detailed. Set aperture wide open. Completely defocus the lens manually and take 5-10 peripheral AF shots and 5-10 central AF shots, manually 'unfocusing' the lens each time. Check your shots at 100%.

If the both peripheral and central shots are in focus with the lens you were using when you had a problem, this implies something you are doing -- perhaps focusing & recomposing with a wide aperture, typically a no no -- is the culprit. I'm going to go out on a limb and presume that you aren't doing this, but it's worth verifying.

2) Try another lens or two and repeat the same test as in (1).

If the both peripheral and central shots are in focus with the new lens, one might conclude the old lens was decentered, and that was the culprit.

3) Pull the lens. Is the mirror that your AF sensor looks at dirty? Perhaps on the same end you are having a problem focusing with?

There are a number of other things it could be, but I'd start with those three before you send the camera in to be looked at.

- A
 
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There are several possibilities for poor focus, as others have mentioned.

1. The AF points are calibrated by Canon, and can be adjusted if there is a issue. The AF sensor must be very precisely mounted, and can be out of alignment and need calibration.

2. As far as the AF spread, that has not changed in the several years since the 5D MK III came out, so you should not be surprised.

FoCal Pro has a nice test of the accuracy of each AF point. A lens problem can cause an apparent error, so don't overlook that. Take a photo of a star chart or even a brick wall, if the opposite edges are out of focus, its a lens issue.
 
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I assume you've consulted the 5D MK III Autofocus Guide, http://cpn.canon-europe.com/files/product/cameras/eos_5d_mark_iii/AF_guide_EOS5D_MarkIII_eng_January2013.pdf

You didn't mention which lens you are using. Not all AF points are created equal for all lenses. Lenses in group A benefit more from the f/2.8 dual cross-type AF points. Groups B & D only benefit from the center point. Thus might explain some of the difference you see.
 
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^^^ this

Also, it depends on how old the lens is.. a 50m f1.4 is notorius for not being the best focusing lens, I always had to double tap mine, and even then did refocused extras to be sure. However newer lenses + newer bodies will have a much tighter AF tolerance, as the new lenses have a position feedback they send to the camera so it makes sure it is where it is suppose to be, the older lenses don't have. So posting the lens you are using may help.
 
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check the AF settings, just check any previous user (if it is second hand) hasn't played with the case settings. I have never found the outer points any less reliable. If you want to complain of the spread that's a different matter.
 
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Berg, I'm sorry to say...that it's not the 5DIII that's at fault. It's AF system is amazing and one of the best currently available. But it needs a different skill set compared to the 5DII. AI servo in all points is now a credible option..but suffers less accuracy and getting the initial lock can be tricky. In low light the central 5 points are all equal to the old 5DII's single point. It's also more sensitive and more accurate compared to the 5DII. So consider the 5DIII as a quantum leap in AF and needs to be re-learned and you might need to take up some 1 to 1 advice to get the best out of it.
 
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