Guess what?
- Thread starter EOBeav
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RLPhoto
Gear doesn't matter, Just a Matter of Convenience.
EOBeav said:
That can be an issue if your mixing ambient with flash on the 135L. That's only an issue if you want everything in the frame sharp and not just what the flash strikes handheld. If your mixing slower than 1/135th, and want a sharp frame, a tripod is the best bet. Now handheld, IS will work but it wouldn't stop motion from your subject blurring by movement.
There is a lot of ways to slice this, specifics are important.
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In this case the problem is not caused from movement of the sobject, but it is more likely caused by a double exposure, the first caused by flash light and the second formed by ambient light. You can solve this problem closing diafragm. If you want to keep lens open and flash light you can chose HSS or a ND filter.paul13walnut5 said:
Diego
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paul13walnut5
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hyles said:
In this case the problem is caused by camera shake because the flash enforced shutter max synch speed of 1/200th is too slow.
It is not a double exposure, it is a question of mixing and balance flash with ambient light.
Closing the diaphragm will give the flash more work to expose at all, and make it tricker to reach an ambient / flash balance, the result is likely to be dark background and caught int headlights subject, flat batteries and long recycling time.
HSS is probably part of the answer, although for fill flash against bright daylight you probably want to keep the power up, HSS will diminish the power.. A monopod is probably the other part.
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This isn't really a problem, just an a-ha moment that I had. I have the Canon 135mm f/2 L, which is non-IS. I also shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, max shutter speed sync of 1/200 sec. I also have a non-HSS flash. When I was combining all three the other day (combining flash with ambient), I realized that I need to keep my shutter speed at least ~1/160 but under 1/200. That's not a lot of wiggle room.
Not a complaint, just an observation. I won't be able to get the HSS for awhile, but you can bet its next on my wish list.
We now return you to your regularly scheduled forum.
Not a complaint, just an observation. I won't be able to get the HSS for awhile, but you can bet its next on my wish list.
We now return you to your regularly scheduled forum.
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http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN568EX-YN-568EX-Speed-Speedlite/dp/B0094O6GNI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1374715228&sr=8-3&keywords=yongnuo+568
Yongnuo are pretty well praised, I have a Sigma with HSS, and it works great (other than the firmware being glitchy) I can shoot @ f 1.8 in the snow and still use fill-flash, although the 61 meter range is cut about in half.
Yongnuo are pretty well praised, I have a Sigma with HSS, and it works great (other than the firmware being glitchy) I can shoot @ f 1.8 in the snow and still use fill-flash, although the 61 meter range is cut about in half.
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Ryan708 said:
A secondhand 550EX is better value and will always have 100% functionality with any EOS camera now and in the future.
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privatebydesign said:
I've got 2 YN-560's, and I wouldn't have a problem buying a HSS version. That company is still trying to shake the QC reputation of some of their first production runs. I just haven't had a problem with mine after two years.
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EOBeav said:
I don't care what anybody but me buys, I really don't. I got some Yongnuo RF-602's years ago and was very happy to recommend them. Just pointing out that as far as flashes go there are actually cheaper branded options. I used 550EX's for years, never saw the point in the 580EX or 580EX II, once the 600-EX-RT came out I did see the advantages so went to that, but I still have several 550's and couldn't be happier with them, best $120 a Canon shooter can spend on speedlites.
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Leaf shutters have their own issues. People that think they give true sync at high speeds don't understand how they work. They are not a panacea they are an effective second aperture.
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This series of videos gives a best case scenario, and aptly demonstrates that leaf shutters act as second apertures at high sync speeds.
http://petapixel.com/2013/05/07/a-slow-motion-look-at-the-fujifilm-x100s-shutter-speeds-and-syncing/
Remember three things, first, the X100S is designed from the word go to do this, and it fakes it somewhat by not energising the sensor for the first half of the shutter travel (effectively it has an electronic first curtain), any camera not designed with an electronic first or second curtain can't get close to this efficiency; second, when a leaf shutter acts as a second aperture you lose flash power; third, your flash t1 times become critical, don't think about using a small flash at full power because it isn't fast enough to get the light out there, studio strobes are very slow, with some t1 times as slow as 1/60 second.
Of course there are options to get light out at high speeds, but they all cost good money, even Einsteins aren't cheap if you have to gang them because they only do a full power t1 of 1/666. A leaf shutter is not a panacea to high speed sync issues.
http://petapixel.com/2013/05/07/a-slow-motion-look-at-the-fujifilm-x100s-shutter-speeds-and-syncing/
Remember three things, first, the X100S is designed from the word go to do this, and it fakes it somewhat by not energising the sensor for the first half of the shutter travel (effectively it has an electronic first curtain), any camera not designed with an electronic first or second curtain can't get close to this efficiency; second, when a leaf shutter acts as a second aperture you lose flash power; third, your flash t1 times become critical, don't think about using a small flash at full power because it isn't fast enough to get the light out there, studio strobes are very slow, with some t1 times as slow as 1/60 second.
Of course there are options to get light out at high speeds, but they all cost good money, even Einsteins aren't cheap if you have to gang them because they only do a full power t1 of 1/666. A leaf shutter is not a panacea to high speed sync issues.
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RLPhoto
Gear doesn't matter, Just a Matter of Convenience.
privatebydesign said:
Cutting ambient foremost is why we sync at these speeds. Flash power at those speeds is secondary to cutting ambient light. Add less flashes by cutting ambient, otherwise have fun shooting through 3 stop NDs. Getting the sync at all is what matters.
Like mr. Hobby lighting a group shot in broad daylight with two sb900s. Lol if you attempted that with a focal shutter.
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