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Landscape Lens for Crop To Make Me Go Wow!

Sporgon said:
Using Photozone as a reference it looks to me as if the 70-300L cannot quite fully resolve 15 mp on APS-c when wide open at 70 mm, let alone 18, but the OP never said he was using this lens wide open.

Good point, but then again I didn't say so. To repeat myself - and we could probably just ask the op :-p ... he's bound to have used the 70-300L wide open at some point. And if he'd had found it lacking, he probably wouldn't have used it as his reference what a good lens is to him (see below).

Sporgon said:
I disagree with your last sentence because the 'very best' in resolution terms doesn't have to be 'the most expensive'. These high mp asp-c cameras need really good lenses, and Canon now provide ones that are up to the job without being expensive; look at the 40/2.8 and the new EF-s 24/2.8.

Come on, this is self-explanatory, isn't it? Of course I was talking zoom against zoom, prime against prime, we all know you can get excellent iq if you use an older manual prime or any newer generation.

AlwaysLearning said:
In terms of the 70-300L being wow, compared to the 18-135 on my body, it's wow :-) There are certainly times when the image isn't quite as sharp as I would expect but I put that down more to user error and a bit of post processing can usually help. All you are doing by showing comparisons on how sharp it is on FF is making me envious! I usually shoot it at 5.6 so then I can treat it as a constant aperture lens across the zoom range.

This is just what I do with the 70-300L on crop, and it's fine this way and has a very nice bokeh.You really only realize the difference with fine details, apart from the thinner dof on ff.

I mostly shoot horses and focus on their eyes - and here there's a visible difference crop vs ff. And of course to even better lenses like the 100L (which is an example of a lens that is just as good on crop).

Of course, as you wrote, if you downsize and the details happen to respond to the usual sharpening algorithms, no one see a difference. Btw that's why I didn't stretch my budget to get the larger 70-200L.
 
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Glad you found my earlier post helpful. I understand you being committed to staying on a crop body. I found it difficult to justify the dollars when I moved. Love the image quality but it is at a big cost.
So if you are staying with the crop body then I am back to my earlier recommendation of getting the 10-22. You say that you don't shoot that wide - but you can't if you don't have the equipment. I found the very wide end great for taking shots from down very close to ground level, which changed the perspective and impact of images greatly and added a new dimension to what I was taking. Why get a lens that would only let you take the same pics as you currently do. Improve your IQ when shooting wide at 16-22 then be able to experiment with new effects from 10-16.
You will get a lot more value out of this type of lens than something like a 16-35 in my opinion.
 
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preppyak said:
Tokina 11-16 is the way I'd go. Sharp lens that gives you a decent range for wide-angle. And its the only lens that works at f/2.8, which if you ever decide to get into night photography, is the difference between getting useable shots and not (the 10-18 starts a full stop slower, and even the 2/3 stop of the 10-22 makes a difference).

My sense is that the 10-22, 10-18, Tokina 11-16 are all about equal in sharpness in standard landscape apertures (f/5.6-f/11). But, only the Tokina can do f/2.8.

Sigma 18-35 would also be a nice lens, but, I think you'll find going from 18mm to 10-11mm opens up your repertoire more than going from 18mm f/3.5 to 18mm f/1.8 does.

The Tokina 11-16 f2.8 is the only crop ultra-wide zoom that has ever had a wow factor to it for me. If I was still shooting primarily crop I would buy one to replace my drowned Sigma. I actually know someone who used to shoot with it on a 7D as a secondary to his 5DII with 70-200mm. I asked him why he did not have a full frame wide angel. He told me that it was better than all the full frame ultra-wide he had tried. (17-40,3 copies 15-35f2.8 I and 15-35 f2.8 II) The mark 15-35f2.8L II was marginally better but not enough to justify buying a full set of 82mm filters.

All of the other 10-2xmm zooms are about the same. I just bought the new Canon 10-18mm STM to on my old rebel or EOS M while kayaking. It was cheep but I think my old Sigma was sharper once you learned its quirks. I have not really used it enough to know for sure if I like it.

For landscape I would use the Sigma between 15-20mm. I actual preferred to us it over my EFs 15-85mm because of the distortion of the 15-85 at the wide end. You cannot go wrong with the 15-85 it is a very good lens for crop. But I do no know if it is wow.

It has been said that the Sigma 18-35 can replace every prime in its range for crop. It may be the better buy if you do not want to go ultra-wide. I should note that before I bought a ultra-wide and really learned how to use it I was not interested in ultra-wide lens.
 
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Long time lurker who signed up because I found myself in a similar spot not too long ago. FF+L lens isn't an option because I do a decent amount of hiking/backpacking, and the extra weight from my tripod is already stretching things. I pulled the trigger on the 10-18 for my 70D, and I couldn't be more pleased with it.

The 18-135 STM wasn't cutting it in terms of sharpness (and I'm very careful with tripod technique), and it wasn't wide enough for the visual effect I was looking for. I've only had the 10-18 a couple weeks now, but I can already tell it will be excellent. Here's a shot I took to test it out (not particularly proud of it, but I think it does a good job demonstrating sharpness).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/stanmouser/15243510594/sizes/l/
 
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If you fancied a prime lens, the Samyang/Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 has a good reputation as being a sharp good quality manual focus only lens at a very cheap price. Being a full frame lens, it also means that if you get a full frame body in the future, you can still use it.
 
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