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Loswr
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eve said:
If I wanted a CPL, I'd choose the CPL - that's for optical effect (reduce reflection, increase saturation, darken blue skies, not to be left on all the time as it costs you ~1.75 stops of light).
If I wanted protection for the front element, I'd choose either 2 or 3 - for a dSLR there's no difference so get whichever is cheaper.
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RLPhoto
Gear doesn't matter, Just a Matter of Convenience.
Option 1 is a polarizer. Its an effect filter to reduce reflection and improve saturation.eve said:
Option 2 will cut UV light from your lens, I've noticed about a 100 K degree cooler photos. If you shoot film also, I'd get this one.
Option 3 will simply protect you lens, nothing else. Get this one if you plan to shoot only digital.
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Deleted member 20471
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eve said:
I have the B+W 007M MRC Nano Coated Clear Glass Protection Filter with XS-Pro (is also written as XSPD) Mount.
The Kaesemann Circular Polarizer is a superb polarizer filter, not a general protection filter (but extremely useful and highly recommended).
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Call me practical, but I've been using Hoya HMC filters for ages, never a problem. They have a better grade, but the HMC is very very good.
On the Leica M, I'm using B+W multicoated filters, since they are more available in the small (odd) Leica sizes.
I prefer the Sky 1B in Hoya, and plain ol' UV in B+W (shooting monochrome on the Leica anyway)
On the Leica M, I'm using B+W multicoated filters, since they are more available in the small (odd) Leica sizes.
I prefer the Sky 1B in Hoya, and plain ol' UV in B+W (shooting monochrome on the Leica anyway)
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Going back a few decades, I've used Hoya HMC for my film cameras. But, I have noticed increased flare with this filter on an EF 70-300 f4-5.6 USM IS.
Last winter, I upgraded to the EF 70-200 f2.8L IS Mark II and the EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS lenses. I'm now using the Hoya HD Clear Protection Glass Filter (HOHDP77) on both and I HIGHLY recommend this filter.
Hoya's website includes video demonstrating it's toughness. Fortunately, I have no first-hand experience with this. But, Hoya's claims that this filter is easy to clean are valid. Fingerprints come off very easily with a wipe of lens cleaning cloth. More importantly, I have been unable to reproduce the flare that I found with cheaper filters – and I tried.
Moving from the 58mm 70-300 lens to the 77mm 70-200, I was concerned about flare. So, I did some testing with this filter on the 70-200 aimed at and near the evening sun. I found no discernible difference in image quality and no increased flare.
One other note here. The curvature of the front elements on the 70-200 and the 17-55 is relatively flat, which helps prevent internal flare. In contrast, the EF 35 2.0 has a front element deeply recessed from the filter threads and with a small diameter curvature. Together, these factors increase the chance that light can bounce between the front element and the rear of the filter. A cupcake with a single birthday candle can produce several flared images with any filter. I no longer use filters on the little lenses.
Last winter, I upgraded to the EF 70-200 f2.8L IS Mark II and the EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS lenses. I'm now using the Hoya HD Clear Protection Glass Filter (HOHDP77) on both and I HIGHLY recommend this filter.
Hoya's website includes video demonstrating it's toughness. Fortunately, I have no first-hand experience with this. But, Hoya's claims that this filter is easy to clean are valid. Fingerprints come off very easily with a wipe of lens cleaning cloth. More importantly, I have been unable to reproduce the flare that I found with cheaper filters – and I tried.
Moving from the 58mm 70-300 lens to the 77mm 70-200, I was concerned about flare. So, I did some testing with this filter on the 70-200 aimed at and near the evening sun. I found no discernible difference in image quality and no increased flare.
One other note here. The curvature of the front elements on the 70-200 and the 17-55 is relatively flat, which helps prevent internal flare. In contrast, the EF 35 2.0 has a front element deeply recessed from the filter threads and with a small diameter curvature. Together, these factors increase the chance that light can bounce between the front element and the rear of the filter. A cupcake with a single birthday candle can produce several flared images with any filter. I no longer use filters on the little lenses.
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