Need filter suggestions - Ordered Canon 100mm f2.8 L macro

[balaji]

I ordered a 100mm 2.8 L lens and should be picking up from the store tomorrow. I am planning to use this lens for Macro and Portraits. I use Hood on my other lenses at all times which I plan to do with the new lens as well.

Please suggest what filters I need for Macro and portrait. I do have a Marumi CP (77mm) that I use on my other 2 lens (77mm and 67 mm with a step down/up ring).

Thanks in advance.

 

[PeterJ]

The 100L has quite a deep hood, if you're planning on using the hood all the time and just want it for protection you might consider not using a filter. I don't use one on mine and can't really see shrubs and the like ever coming into contact with the front element, although you might still want one for weather sealing but once again with the hood probably not much of an issue in practice.

 

[candyman]

I ordered a 100mm 2.8 L lens and should be picking up from the store tomorrow. I am planning to use this lens for Macro and Portraits. I use Hood on my other lenses at all times which I plan to do with the new lens as well.

Please suggest what filters I need for Macro and portrait. I do have a Marumi CP (77mm) that I use on my other 2 lens (77mm and 67 mm with a step down/up ring).

Thanks in advance.

I use on my 100 f/2.8 L - and most of my lenses - B&W UV MRC filters. They are not cheap but there is almost no influence of the filter on the IQ. (At least, I don't see it) And, the filters make the weather sealing more complete. Hoya UV HD filters are also good.

 

[Loswr]

A UV for protection if so inclined. The CPL you have, and although the step-up ring will prevent using the hood, the hood is so deep it makes rotating a CPL almost impossible, so you'd likely have it off anyway. It's an f/2.8 lens and you've got a 1/8000 s max shutter, so no need for ND with ambient light (unlike an f/1.8 or faster lens, where a 2-3 stop ND can help on a sunny day. But...if you plan to use lots of supplemental light (not just fill flash, but overpower-the-sun with multiple flashes or a monolight), then you'd need an ND.

 

[GaryJ]

I ordered a 100mm 2.8 L lens and should be picking up from the store tomorrow. I am planning to use this lens for Macro and Portraits. I use Hood on my other lenses at all times which I plan to do with the new lens as well.

Please suggest what filters I need for Macro and portrait. I do have a Marumi CP (77mm) that I use on my other 2 lens (77mm and 67 mm with a step down/up ring).

Thanks in advance.

I use only a CP when needed,no filters otherwise,I pesonally see too much degradation of images using UV filters,I use MT-24 flash for a lot of macro ,filters are not a requirement for the style of macro I shoot,when shooting portraits no filter is on the lens.I have yet to find a filter maker who can match the quality of glass that Canon turns out, I always keep in mind that I have a Very expensive piece of equpment at the end of my arm and act accordingly,after 8 yrs have had no scratches dings or dents with any of my digital gear,same goes for my 25 yr old film gear.Save yourself some money and just be aware of your actions and have fun.

 

[Marsu42]

I use on my 100 f/2.8 L - and most of my lenses - B&W UV MRC filters.

I'm using B+W clear protection filters on my lenses - what's the reason to use a uv filter with digital?

To the op: With the macro lens, you sometimes have to remove the hood at large magnifications because it gets in the way of the light or flashes, or shy animals frighten faster because the hood is closer to them. That's why I'd recommend a filter, and a 67mm to stay on all the time, I don't think there's any iq degradation and personally I feel better cleaning a filter than the lens.

 

[bycostello]

i'd never use a filter unless i could absolutely not avoid it

 

[Loswr]

I'm using B+W clear protection filters on my lenses - what's the reason to use a uv filter with digital?

Optically, there's no difference for a dSLR. But in some markets/sizes, the UV version of the filter is cheaper and/or more widely available. Whenever I've needed to buy one, B+W MRC UV 010 was always a few $ cheaper than the same-sized B+W MRC Clear 007 - so I bought the UV.

 

[balaji]

Thanks ALL for your valuable suggestions.

One question though. I am picking up the L series version of the lens and I thought this lens is weather sealed, please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks again

 

[Loswr]

One question though. I am picking up the L series version of the lens and I thought this lens is weather sealed, please correct me if I am wrong.

Yes, it's a weather sealed lens (when used on a sealed body, of course). The front element does not move, so there's no official statement that a filter is required to complete the sealing. Chuck Westfall (Canon's technical guru) has previously recommended using a filter on all sealed lenses that take them (i.e. everything but the supertele lenses).

 

[balaji]

Got it. I have a 5DM3. Thanks Neuroanatomist

 

[balaji]

Just picked up the lens from BestBuy, I'm very excited .

 

[Loswr]

Enjoy!

 

[balaji]

Here are some test shots handheld f2.8, 1/100 and 1/80 (2 shots), ISO 8000. I am already liking the sharpness and Bokeh. Wow

 

[Dylan777]

I use on my 100 f/2.8 L - and most of my lenses - B&W UV MRC filters.

I'm using B+W clear protection filters on my lenses - what's the reason to use a uv filter with digital?

To the op: With the macro lens, you sometimes have to remove the hood at large magnifications because it gets in the way of the light or flashes, or shy animals frighten faster because the hood is closer to them. That's why I'd recommend a filter, and a 67mm to stay on all the time, I don't think there's any iq degradation and personally I feel better cleaning a filter than the lens.

+1...on B&W Clear Filter. I have clear filters on all my lenses as protection. Easy to clean and it's CLEAR.

 

[knkedlaya]

+1 for B&W. I havent seen difference in the image quality with or without it in my use. So I mount it on lens all the time. This was not the case with my earlier Tamron 90mm(now broken) and a locally made filter, I stopped using that filter.
I go early mornings for taking photos, and there are times when dew drops falls on the lens, having a filter is much safer I feel. You dont have to touch the front glass but only the filter.

 

[ahsanford]

This is a lifelong 'tastes great / less filling' debate topic.

My vote: +1 on B+W UV filters, unless a CPL is needed (in which case I swap them). Strongly recommend a CPL for macro, but less for color or exposure, and more for managing reflections in droplets of water, glare from leaves, etc. You should have a CPL for that lens in general non-macro use as well. (It's a fully functional 100 prime, right?)

My UV Rationale:

1) It's cheap lens insurance at zero IQ cost. Filters protect the front element from damage. Unless you are buying very cheap lenses, even pricey filters are cheaper to replace than lenses are to repair.

2) When air or a microfiber are not enough, I am far more comfortable cleaning filters with that ROR liquid than using that stuff on lens elements.

3) I don't like having to remember if the L lens I'm using has weather sealing that is filter-dependent or not, so they just all get filters. Easy.

4) Hoods sit in my bag. I have a 100% VF and have (I suppose) decent discipline with sun placement in the frame, and three of my lenses' hoods are nightmare to use with CPLs. However, if I was using a hood, perhaps I'd shoot with naked lenses.

About the only time I have naked lens elements is when I use my Lee 4x6 ND grads (i.e. way less than 1% of the time). That system requires adaptor rings -- a screw-in like a filter (but no glass on it) with a metal outrigger to receive the big frame to hold the rectangular ND grads. As I don't like stacking filters (annoying for threading/unthreading reasons), if I go ND grad it's a sort-of-naked lens in that dust/water can touch the lens, but the 4x6 serves as a physical barrier for drops, impact, finger contact, etc.

- A

 

[leftnose]

I'm in the camp where I generally put UV filters on all my lenses.

With the 100L Macro, I especially felt the need for a UV filter because of the hugely deep lens hood. Even with an aftermarket center-pinch lens cap, I find dealing with the lens cap when the hood is installed very difficult. Even though I have fairly large hands, I manage to drop the filter quite often and I got tired of bouncing the lens cap off the front element.

As to which filter? The B+W MRC 010 that everyone else has recommended is what I have installed. I'm a bit weird and put B+W MRC filters on all my primes but Hoya S-HMC on all my zooms. Don't ask me why. I don't know!

 

[RLPhoto]

I ordered a 100mm 2.8 L lens and should be picking up from the store tomorrow. I am planning to use this lens for Macro and Portraits. I use Hood on my other lenses at all times which I plan to do with the new lens as well.

Please suggest what filters I need for Macro and portrait. I do have a Marumi CP (77mm) that I use on my other 2 lens (77mm and 67 mm with a step down/up ring).

Thanks in advance.

B&W MRC UV filters

B&W Kaesemann Circular Polarizer's

The best filters for the best lenses. I trust the germans engineering every little detail of these filters.

 

[bkorcel]

Why would you want to put a filter on such a fine lens? If you are going to use a filter, save some $$$ and buy the non-L version instead.