Next lens, round 2

[dpedro]

Ok, I now own the Canon 5dM3 and the T4i. I shoot models, families, events and soon I am scheduled to shoot 2 weddings.

I own the 35L, the 85 1.8, the 100 L 2.8 macro, the 24-105 f4, the 70-200 f4 non IS, and the Ef-s 10-22 and 17-55 2.8 IS.

Do I use the combo of bodies or just sell my EF-S glass to get the 24-70 2.8 II and maybe upgrade my 70-200? Any other lens I should be looking at or am I already Good to go?

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

Ok, I now own the Canon 5dM3 and the T4i. I shoot models, families, events and soon I am scheduled to shoot 2 weddings.

I own the 35L, the 85 1.8, the 100 L 2.8 macro, the 24-105 f4, the 70-200 f4 non IS, and the Ef-s 10-22 and 17-55 2.8 IS.

Do I use the combo of bodies or just sell my EF-S glass to get the 24-70 2.8 II and maybe upgrade my 70-200? Any other lens I should be looking at or am I already Good to go?

Unless you have a APS-C body, why are you keeping lenses you can't use?
As far as lenses you need, it should be obvious to you if you are missing something. What is it that is giving you issues? Someone can help if you list a problem.
I'd say you are missing a 135mmL, but that is because its my most used lens. You might not use it at all.

 

[robbymack]

Do you have a couple of speed lights? If so your probably golden with the 24-105. If no flash the 17-55 will come in handy. If your comfortable with the flash then I'd give it a try with your current gear. If not you won't find anyone here who would turn down a 24-70ii and 70-200ii if it was in the cards.

 

[dpedro]

I do ok with my 2 600 ex-rt's. I still need one more or a controller to have a complete setup. I hear complaints about canons current controller, so many people say use a 3rd 600 flash to control the others.

I love my 17-55, but don't want to have the second body (t4i) if I don't need it, that's why I was looking at the 24-70 II. The 24-105 is nice as hell, but sometimes I wish I had the 2.8 over the 4. Especially when shooting indoor events. You can check out my work here: www.facebook.com/AFlashInTimePhotographyByDonPedro

Most of the shoots before Oct were with a t2i and t4i. The newest stuff was with the 5DM3.

I would love a 24-70, but some would argue I don't need it.

 

[wickidwombat]

use the 17-55 and 10-22 on the T4i at low isos 800 or lower

use the 35 and 85 on the 5Dmk3 you can probably shoot 85% of the wedding with these 2 lenses

probably have the 17-55 on the T4i and 85 on the 5Dmk3 most of the time then swap to the 10-22 for some ultra wide set shots and the 35 on the 5Dmk3 for the reception typically receptions are pretty cramped and long lenses are not much good so leave the 17-55 on the T4i for the reception and use flash on both

 

[Bosman]

I'd do it this way, 24-70 on 5dm3. 50 or 85 on the t4i camera since a 50 is close to optimum portrait length on a 1.6 crop body. You want a lens that will cover you in most situations with a body that you want to use the most. The 17-55 is a great lens but you will use it more than anything else in a wedding situation and that means your 5dm3 gets lonely. I would prioritize my use of lenses and shooting around the best camera, the 24-70 fits that slot best. Besides if you do want to shoot some portraits you can throw it on the t4i and not miss anything while using your other longer focal lengths when doing portraits. I would personally unload anything non-FF in your lens lineup but thats how i do it.
The 24-100 i have no experience with but I just prefer every lens to be F2.8 or larger aperture. The 35L can be your normal lens on the t4i when you want low light stuff.
During the ceremony a 70-200 is indispensable and having IS also is, some churches are black holes. You want closer up shots of the rings being put on and the pouring of sand or candle lighting, if you need to close the distance up even more the t4i will give you even more reach. The 70-200 is also best used during toasts as it can be difficult to be close to the bride and groom without standing in front of someone often times so the 70-200 allows you to be at a distance which is handy.
Always, always no matter what have a second body especially if someone is paying you to cover an event like a wedding. I have had a camera shutter go down mid wedding and had to shoot with the 5d and 24-70 and although it was not my ideal it worked very well considering the situation. Also having two cameras with different lens ranges is important because you don't have time to be farting around with lens changes all the time and a 24-70 will solve that problem. When you first get into weddings i recommend using good zoom lenses until you become proficient and don't feel forced when using primes. I am actually pretty comfortable going to using 2 prime lenses one on each body for weddings this year. I was using the 24L on 1dm3 and 5DM3 with 50L and now am using 1DM3 with 24L and 85LII on the 5DM3. I didn't even pull out the 70-200 at all but then i didn't need to because i could get close enough to the couple without being in anyones way or distracting too much.
Rehash
Use a most used lens on a most used body and switch things out with the "other camera".

 

[Dylan777]

As I mentioned from your very 1st post(before you buy 5D III) - sell your crop gear and get another FF, 6D or 5D II

1. 24-70 II on one body and 70-200 f2.8 IS II on another body. Your client(s) won't be able to tell the different f2.8 and 1.8 bokeh. Unless he/she is a photographer.

2. Keep your macro lens & flashes for special shootings

3. Put everything else on Craiglist. Unless you want to show off your gear to your client(s), otherwise why carry too many "Fken" lenses in your bag. I just don't get it.

 

[gilmorephoto]

As I mentioned from your very 1st post(before you buy 5D III) - sell your crop gear and get another FF, 6D or 5D II

1. 24-70 II on one body and 70-200 f2.8 IS II on another body. Your client(s) won't be able to tell the different f2.8 and 1.8 bokeh. Unless he/she is a photographer.

2. Keep your macro lens & flashes for special shootings

3. Put everything else on Craiglist. Unless you want to show off your gear to your client(s), otherwise why carry too many "Fken" lenses in your bag. I just don't get it.

+1. Except I'd keep the 35mm L for those times when you need another two stops indoors and no flash allowed.

 

[kubelik]

As I mentioned from your very 1st post(before you buy 5D III) - sell your crop gear and get another FF, 6D or 5D II

1. 24-70 II on one body and 70-200 f2.8 IS II on another body. Your client(s) won't be able to tell the different f2.8 and 1.8 bokeh. Unless he/she is a photographer.

2. Keep your macro lens & flashes for special shootings

3. Put everything else on Craiglist. Unless you want to show off your gear to your client(s), otherwise why carry too many "Fken" lenses in your bag. I just don't get it.

+1. Except I'd keep the 35mm L for those times when you need another stop indoors and no flash allowed.

another +1 from me on nabbing the 6D or 5DII to replace the t4i ... the way your lens lineup is doubled up right now is unneccessary, as I doubt you're ever trying to simultaneously used the 24-105 and the 17-55... are you?

 

[cliffwang]

If it were me then I would sell the 24-105, 70-200 f4 Non-IS as well as both the EF-S lenses, then buy the 24-70mm mkII as well as a faster 70-200mm f/2.8L lens, so that way you could have the telephoto L lens on the crop body and the new standard zoom on the 5D3 - the perfect wedding photographer setup

+1
24-70mm F/2.8 MK2 on 5D3
70-200mm F/2.8 MK2 on T4i
Don't forget bring 35L with you.

 

[dpedro]

OK, I think I am selling the 17-55, the 10-22 and the T4i, unless my wife wants to learn on a decent camera body. She can use my T4i and 35L to learn. I will get the 24-70 2.8 and also sell my 70-200 for the upgraded version 2.8 mk ii. That should do it. Maybe down the line, I will grab a 16-35. I am def keeping my 100 L macro and will prob grab a 6D as my alt body. Thanks for all the advice. Ordering 24-70 this week and after my other stuff sells, I will grab the other stuff i mentioned.

Very helpful posts from all of you. Thanks

 

[Bosman]

Glad to help Brotha.

 

[Dylan777]

OK, I think I am selling the 17-55, the 10-22 and the T4i, unless my wife wants to learn on a decent camera body. She can use my T4i and 35L to learn. I will get the 24-70 2.8 and also sell my 70-200 for the upgraded version 2.8 mk ii. That should do it. Maybe down the line, I will grab a 16-35. I am def keeping my 100 L macro and will prob grab a 6D as my alt body. Thanks for all the advice. Ordering 24-70 this week and after my other stuff sells, I will grab the other stuff i mentioned.

Very helpful posts from all of you. Thanks

I would agree with 6D, newer body and auto ISO in M mode. What else can you ask for as a wedding shooter. 2 FF bodies with two best lenses on the market.

Get ready for new 24-70 II. Both copies I received from Crutchfield are sharp. Both have little vignetting(even at 4 corners) at 24mm, but you can fix it this in LR.

The last four serial number on the second copy, which I received on Oct 31th is xxxx1932.

If your copy has 3-digit or lower(xxxx0123), you might want to ask the seller for higher number- that could be a returned lens.

 

[Bosman]

I am curious about the 6d, the focus in -3 stops is interesting but just because they mention it doesn't mean the 1dx and 5dm3 don't have the same sensitivity. If anyone has proof on that id like to know. The 6D may be a great lowlight reception camera with fast glass. Even with my 5dm3 and the 85F1.2, I rarely got the focus locked on good enough at F1.4 even. In normal light F1.2 is dead nutz. Maybe the 6D solves that. Def keep the 35L.

 

[Loswr]

I am curious about the 6d, the focus in -3 stops is interesting but just because they mention it doesn't mean the 1dx and 5dm3 don't have the same sensitivity.

The 5DIII and 1D X are spec'd to AF down to -2 EV, older 1-series bodies (1DIV, etc.) to -1 EV, and most other bodies (5DII, 7D, xxD, xxxD) to -0.5 EV.

 

[dpedro]

Well, I am really hoping to get these lenses sold. Should be very easy to move them as they are all under a year old and I only used the 10-22 2x. The 70-200 a few times more than the 10-22 and I used the 17-55 2.8, but cleaned it and kept it in perfect condition. Also have all boxes and papers for them. The T4i is only 6 mos old. Ordering my 24-70 2.8 II this week and the 70-200 F 2.8 II after I sell my EF-S lenses.

 

[Bosman]

You will fall in love with this selection of gear. The 70-200 LII does excellent portraiture and i see thats what you do a lot so this is your 85mm Lens. At 200mm F2.8 is pretty darn shallow! The focus is whip fast. If you have kids in sports it will be great for that.

 

[Dylan777]

Well, I am really hoping to get these lenses sold. Should be very easy to move them as they are all under a year old and I only used the 10-22 2x. The 70-200 a few times more than the 10-22 and I used the 17-55 2.8, but cleaned it and kept it in perfect condition. Also have all boxes and papers for them. The T4i is only 6 mos old. Ordering my 24-70 2.8 II this week and the 70-200 F 2.8 II after I sell my EF-S lenses.

Once you snap that 24-70 II on your 5D III, I don't think you ever want to go back to your 4ti with 17-55 ever again ;D

 

[Bosman]

^^

 

[Bosman]

I am curious about the 6d, the focus in -3 stops is interesting but just because they mention it doesn't mean the 1dx and 5dm3 don't have the same sensitivity.

The 5DIII and 1D X are spec'd to AF down to -2 EV, older 1-series bodies (1DIV, etc.) to -1 EV, and most other bodies (5DII, 7D, xxD, xxxD) to -0.5 EV.

I thought it was -2 i just didn't want to blab and get it wrong w/o confirming it with my memory and the facts since i didn't feel like researching it to confim my memory was correct. Funny thing is i kinda thought you might bring your knowledge on the subject. I'm not kidding!
Neuro, what do you think the benefits and results of -3 ev will mean for shooters?