Really Right Stuff Camera Plate w/o Grip - B5D3

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Oct 15, 2010
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Bosman said:
Is kirk compatible with RRS? This is stupid...
Bosman, you bring up a good point, I am going to ask over at FM as there seem to be a number of RRS users there because I have a RRS quick-release lever clamp which states:

http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=B2-AS-II-1/4-20&type=3&eq=&desc=B2-AS-II-clamp-with-1%2f4-20-screw

NOTE: Choose a Lever Release clamp ONLY if you have quick release plates from Really Right Stuff or Wimberley. Lever Release clamp are not user-adjustable, and different manufacturers may follow different standards when producing Arca-Swiss compatible plates. Specifically, our Lever Release clamps do not work with plates from Markins, AcraTech, Arca-Swiss, and some Kirk plates–the dovetails are too shallow. Choose a screw-knob clamp if you have plates OTHER than those from RRS or Wimberley.
 
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AUGS

CR Pro
Feb 13, 2012
116
39
Sydney, Australia
Jamesy said:
aZhu said:
Bosman said:
maybe they just removed the old flanges and put new ones in place so they didn't have to scrap them. They def went the easy cheaper route as my 1dm3 is smooth beginning to end no steps at all.
I should get mine thursday according to UPS tracking.
Yeah I don't understand why the 'step' needed to be added. If the plate needed to be raised at that location, why not make it a curved gradual flange vs a step? At least that won't dig into the camera body...
I am totally with you on that. It will be interesting to see if the L-bracket has the same step - if it does, I dunno if I will keep it as it seems like it may leave a mark on the camera. Can you provide a shot of of the side of the bracket with a profile of the step?
I received my Rev A L-Plate tonight and can confirm there is a small step as shown in the other images, but the l-plate appears to have a generous chamfer on the step leading edge - difficult to tell if it even contacts the camera there as very few light gaps and very neat fit all round. After 3 hours there is no contact line or mark on the camera in any location. I'll report back tomorrow night, maybe with images if anyone is interested.
Sorry, don't have lenses or second camera here tonight.
 
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Oct 15, 2010
778
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AUGS said:
Jamesy said:
aZhu said:
Bosman said:
maybe they just removed the old flanges and put new ones in place so they didn't have to scrap them. They def went the easy cheaper route as my 1dm3 is smooth beginning to end no steps at all.
I should get mine thursday according to UPS tracking.
Yeah I don't understand why the 'step' needed to be added. If the plate needed to be raised at that location, why not make it a curved gradual flange vs a step? At least that won't dig into the camera body...
I am totally with you on that. It will be interesting to see if the L-bracket has the same step - if it does, I dunno if I will keep it as it seems like it may leave a mark on the camera. Can you provide a shot of of the side of the bracket with a profile of the step?
I received my Rev A L-Plate tonight and can confirm there is a small step as shown in the other images, but the l-plate appears to have a generous chamfer on the step leading edge - difficult to tell if it even contacts the camera there as very few light gaps and very neat fit all round. After 3 hours there is no contact line or mark on the camera in any location. I'll report back tomorrow night, maybe with images if anyone is interested.
Sorry, don't have lenses or second camera here tonight.
Yes, please pics as soon as you can - even iPhone ones.
 
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M

mrbobvilla

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I just uploaded some pictures of the RRS L Plate Rev A to my website in case anyone is interested. Unfortunately I do not have a macro lens so I did the best I could with the cameras and lenses available to me.

http://mrbobvilla.com/gallery3/index.php/Misc/L-Plate
You can download the images by viewing one of the images and then clicking on the little floppy drive on the top rightish area. You will probably want to see them zoomed in a bunch.

In my opinion it is touching. I can't tell if it would cause any damage as mine was already scuffed up from the original. I am a little grumpy about it but its going to be my workhorse for at least the next three years and I will always have the plate on so I'll survive. I'll worry about resale if that time ever comes.
 
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Jamesy said:
Bosman said:
Is kirk compatible with RRS? This is stupid...
RRS confirmed on the phone today that their clamps are compatible with Kirk plates.

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1103460/7#10596571
Jamesy, don't you have this one? I have a quick release and what i am reading is that because they arent adjustable this style clamp won't work. Am I wrong about that and in fact all clamps will work with Kirk?
http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=B2-AS-II-1/4-20&type=3&eq=&desc=B2-AS-II-clamp-with-1%2f4-20-screw&key=it
 
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AUGS

CR Pro
Feb 13, 2012
116
39
Sydney, Australia
Jamesy said:
AUGS said:
I received my Rev A L-Plate tonight and can confirm there is a small step as shown in the other images, but the l-plate appears to have a generous chamfer on the step leading edge - difficult to tell if it even contacts the camera there as very few light gaps and very neat fit all round. After 3 hours there is no contact line or mark on the camera in any location. I'll report back tomorrow night, maybe with images if anyone is interested.
Sorry, don't have lenses or second camera here tonight.
Yes, please pics as soon as you can - even iPhone ones.

Photos as requested. Sorry for poor quality, but from an old point-and-shoot. Generally a really neat fit.
The 4th image shows the minor step leading edge chamfer.
Couldn't get an image along the base of the camera as the l-plate blocks the light coming through.

*** UPDATE ***
I feel compelled to update here as these images are being referenced on other sites - eg Fred Miranda.
The very slight and superficial markings on the camera DO NOT break through the surface finish on the camera as stated elsewhere. In fact, they were particularly hard to photograph as I had to get the light to reflect off the surface just to be seen. At most viewing angles, the "marks" are not even visible. You have to really look hard to see them.
Yes, I contemplated removing the images, but in the interests of full disclosure and to prevent further and endless speculation I have left them here so you can decide if they are an issue for you - they are most definitely not for me.
 

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AUGS

CR Pro
Feb 13, 2012
116
39
Sydney, Australia
And more...
1st - simple view off camera.
2nd - shows chamfer on leading edge of the minor step, but also the rubber footprint of the camera base, it definitely bottoms out on the flat section of the plate.
3rd & 4th - very minor surface rub on the textured camera body caused by a face to face contact - not a hard edge/corner. Only very superficial, and certainly nothing more than will be expected during the general usage of the camera.
Note, I couldn't see any witness of the minor step on the camera, that was the initial concern raised here.

*** UPDATE ***
I feel compelled to update here as these images are being referenced on other sites - eg Fred Miranda.
The very slight and superficial markings on the camera DO NOT break through the surface finish on the camera as stated elsewhere. In fact, they were particularly hard to photograph as I had to get the light to reflect off the surface just to be seen. At most viewing angles, the "marks" are not even visible. You have to really look hard to see them.
Yes, I contemplated removing the images, but in the interests of full disclosure and to prevent further and endless speculation I have left them here so you can decide if they are an issue for you - they are most definitely not for me.
 

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Oct 15, 2010
778
0
Bosman said:
Jamesy said:
Bosman said:
Is kirk compatible with RRS? This is stupid...
RRS confirmed on the phone today that their clamps are compatible with Kirk plates.

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1103460/7#10596571
Jamesy, don't you have this one? I have a quick release and what i am reading is that because they arent adjustable this style clamp won't work. Am I wrong about that and in fact all clamps will work with Kirk?
http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=B2-AS-II-1/4-20&type=3&eq=&desc=B2-AS-II-clamp-with-1%2f4-20-screw&key=it
Yes that is the clamp I have. RRS changed the link as of yesterday afternoon or evening. In the morning the red note at the bottom said this:

NOTE: Choose a Lever Release clamp ONLY if you have quick release plates from Really Right Stuff or Wimberley. Lever Release clamp are not user-adjustable, and different manufacturers may follow different standards when producing Arca-Swiss compatible plates. Specifically, our Lever Release clamps do not work with plates from Markins, AcraTech, Arca-Swiss, and some Kirk plates–the dovetails are too shallow. Choose a screw-knob clamp if you have plates OTHER than those from RRS or Wimberley.

My clamp was purchased in 2008 and a couple of other people over at FM have said that their clamps of the same vintage are fine with vendors plates other than RRS.

You can read the responses onward from my question yesterday here:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1103460/6#10594674
 
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A

aZhu

Guest
Just got an update email from RRS regarding why the 'step' was made instead of a curved flange:

Greetings Andy,

I apologize for the delay in response – I wanted to make sure I had the most information possible before getting back to you.

We understand that there is still a concern about the chosen design of the plate for the Canon 5D Mark III body, especially regarding the use of the “step” which has been referred to throughout this thread and why we deviated from the “curved flange” design along the back of the plate. We decided to use the rubber gasket for enhancing anti-twist. However, the gasket's irregular shape would cause the plate to tilt when tightened down. The best way which ensured that every camera body would align accurately was to set up a series of contact surfaces that would guide the body into level orientation. For the compound curves of the Canon 5D Mark III, we can get a more consistent result from utilizing flat contact planes than we can by machining a curve into the plate, especially when taking machining variances and tolerances of the different manufacturers into account.

Some people are concerned that the “step” will cause additional marring on the body of the camera. The changes made in rev. A include a small, barely noticeable edge break that was added to this step. It has made a world of difference in minimizing possible marring. Any plate, regardless of manufacturer, may leave some signs of wear at each place where it contacts the camera.

The gaps between the flange and body are the result of our engineers removing excess material after deciding that a taller flange in the back offered superior anti-twist. Leaving material there would not increase support or function in any way and is a matter if cosmetics. Most of our customers like and are happy with the looks of the plate. If you are not satisfied with your plate, we stand by our Return Policy: http://reallyrightstuff.com/WebsiteInfo.aspx?fc=6 .

Please let me know if you have further questions.

Jim
 
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A

aZhu

Guest
RunAndGun said:
I just received my L plate today. I wasn't really worried too much, but I just put a thin strip of gaffe tape on the "step" so there shouldn't be any direct metal-to-body contact at that edge/right angle.

That's actually a pretty good idea. I wonder if this will alter the alignment of being level. Maybe if the tape is thin enough it'll be okay?
 
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Oct 15, 2010
778
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neuroanatomist said:
RunAndGun said:
I just received my L plate today. I wasn't really worried too much, but I just put a thin strip of gaffe tape on the "step" so there shouldn't be any direct metal-to-body contact at that edge/right angle.

Oh please, no - not another 5DIII-related fix involving TAPE...
LMAO
 
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RunAndGun

CR Pro
Dec 16, 2011
498
187
neuroanatomist said:
RunAndGun said:
I just received my L plate today. I wasn't really worried too much, but I just put a thin strip of gaffe tape on the "step" so there shouldn't be any direct metal-to-body contact at that edge/right angle.

Oh please, no - not another 5DIII-related fix involving TAPE...

Hahahahahahahahahahaha ;D 8)
 
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C

Clayin

Guest
Jamesy said:
I don't get it - what are you referring to?
I believe he wants to carve out enough room on the bottom of the plate to replace the allen screw with an R-T1 D-Ring Bolt for his BR strap. That would keep him from having to remove the D-ring every time he wants to use a tripod. Good idea, I wish plate makers realized how many people use this type of strap.
 
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you can see photos of my "modified" L brackets here
http://peakdesignltd.com/blog/2012/04/26/l-bracket-compatibility-for-capture
I also had to take the dremel to the lip around the thread and shaft of the BR TR-1 connector too to help it fit

another thing i have noticed that the rough metal to metal interface locks it in so tight they have zero chance of accidentally coming undone Its actually a bit of a pain to take them off but i take the L brackets off the cameras so rarely its a non issue.
 
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