Shooting an event soon -- could use some advice

[ahsanford]

Hey gang,

I wasn't sure where to put this, sorry.

I am volunteering at a kids event this weekend and when they heard I was a photographer (full disclosure: natural light enthusiast only), they asked me to bring my rig and shoot the event. I only have sketchy details, but here's what I know:

• It will be a mixture of indoor and outdoor shooting. Outdoors will be violently bright and indoors will be cavelike darkness (it's actually an aquarium).
• There will be thousands of people there over the course of the event, so it will be some form of organized chaos in a walkaround 'capture what I can' sort of scenario.
• The event will last 4-6 hours and I need to carry all my gear over that time -- no 100% safe bases of operations are available, and my car will be too far away.

So here's what I was planning on bringing:

• 5D3
• 600EX-RT with a Sto-Fen Omni Bounce
• 16-35 F/4L IS
• 24-70 F/4L IS
• 70-200 F/2.8L IS II
• Filters: CPL for outdoor shooting and UV for indoor shooting and handsy kid fingerprint insurance . The CPL might also be useful to shoot the exhibits through the glass if need be.
• I may also bring some rain covers in case they need me to shoot near an open water habitat -- I'm waiting to hear back on that.

Questions:

1) Did I miss anything obvious? (Note that I lack any (even basic) off-camera lighting tools like a bracket or ETTL cable. So I'm hotshoe-ing the 600EX-RT or bust.)

2) I need to be able to carry everything around with me, so I don't want to go too heavy. The 70-200 is heavy and likely will be overkill given how many people will be packed into this place. Should I leave it out altogether to save weight, or would you bring it?

3) Should I even bother with a gray card to back out the interior lighting? I think I'll be moving around to so many different spots that I won't have the time to use it.

Any advice is appreciated.

- A

 

[AcutancePhotography]

I think you are bringing too much gear. I was roped into uh directed by management volunteered to photographing a kid's event at our company. There was simply no time for changing filters or even lenses.

Preset, or have written down the settings you will need when switching from bright outside to dimmer indoor. You don't want to be trying to figure this out during the event.

Try to learn as much as you can about the schedule of events so you can plan your schedule. You won't be able to photograph everything, so don't even try.

Wear comfortable clothing that allows you to bend/squat as you will be doing that a lot with the kids

Good luck with it. My experience was a completly new experience and well outside my comfort zone. It was pretty exciting and to be honest stressful at times.

Since you will be using on camera flash, a good modifier/bounce will be good. Besure to practice with it, if you are not too experienced with using on camera flash in this environment. You don't want to be trying to figure out stuff at the event.

Lastly, what arrangements/agreements do you have with the event owners concerning use of your photographs?

Get it in writing. Even if you are not getting paid, you still want to have a complete understanding on everyone's understanding concerning the photographs.

 

[Dylan777]

Having 2 bodies for event is huge plus.

All I can think of 2 bodies with 24-70 and 70-200. Maybe 1.4x tc attachs to 70-200 for extra reach when you out door.

Best wishes and be safe

 

[Don Haines]

bring a friend...

That many people in a big area..... no way can you do it justice alone....

 

[ahsanford]

I think you...

Awesome tips.

1) The Sto-Fen bounce has been fine in my limited use of it, but the ceilings are of wildly different heights inside the Aquarium. So a straight vertical bounce may be a mess to dial-in. So I may just go with Sto-Fen's suggested 45 degree upward tilt and call it good. And outdoors in bright light, I may pull it off entirely as I'll need to squeeze all the power out of the flash for HSS use.

2) I've been told that these will be for aquarium promotional use and used by the educational groups that set up this event. This is not for profit whatsoever, so I'm inclined to just hand the photos over sans paperwork. There really aren't any evil forces at play here. I have asked them for specifically how I am to handle concerned parents asking me who I am and where those pictures are going. That's on the event hosts and if they don't give me a canned statement / printout / card to give parents, this shoot isn't happening. That's drama I do not need.

- A

 

[ahsanford]

Having 2 bodies for event is huge plus.

All I can think of 2 bodies with 24-70 and 70-200. Maybe 1.4x tc attachs to 70-200 for extra reach when you out door.

Best wishes and be safe

Thanks!

I have an old T1i. I could leave the 16-35 on the FF rig and put the 24-70 on the T1i for an equivalent 38-112. But I don't have two flashes (the T1i pop-up is wretched) and the T1i would be 100% relegated to outdoor work.

Knowing all that it, should I bring it or leave it?

- A

 

[Besisika]

Having 2 bodies for event is huge plus.

All I can think of 2 bodies with 24-70 and 70-200. Maybe 1.4x tc attachs to 70-200 for extra reach when you out door.

Best wishes and be safe

Agreed!
As far as cavelike darkness concerned, bounce the flash off ceiling if not colored, grey is ok, ETTL and dial flash exposure comp when needed.

 

[Dylan777]

Having 2 bodies for event is huge plus.

All I can think of 2 bodies with 24-70 and 70-200. Maybe 1.4x tc attachs to 70-200 for extra reach when you out door.

Best wishes and be safe

Thanks!

I have an old T1i. I could leave the 16-35 on the FF rig and put the 24-70 on the T1i for an equivalent 38-112. But I don't have two flashes (the T1i pop-up is wretched) and the T1i would be 100% relegated to outdoor work.

Knowing all that it, should I bring it or leave it?

- A

Since this is unpaid gig...I would bring it for outdoor. I shoot with 2470 and 70200mm a lot. If I'm you, I'll put 70200 on crop for outdoor. Although I do not own t1i...I'm assuming the iq shouldn't be a problem for outdoor. Especially with 70200.

 

[ahsanford]

Having 2 bodies for event is huge plus.

All I can think of 2 bodies with 24-70 and 70-200. Maybe 1.4x tc attachs to 70-200 for extra reach when you out door.

Best wishes and be safe

Agreed!
As far as cavelike darkness concerned, bounce the flash off ceiling if not colored, grey is ok, ETTL and dial flash exposure comp when needed.

Crap -- great call. This aquarium's walls are dark blue inside if memory serves. I'll try to get there early and take some shots in each area with a gray card.

- A

 

[fragilesi]

Just a thought, have you checked that the aquarium will allow you to use flash?

 

[agierke]

Does the aquarium charge patrons to see their exhibit? Is the event free to the public or do they have registration fees? If the aquarium and presumably the event coordinators will be using the images to promote themselves then how does that constitute "not for profit"?

You are right to be concerned about photographing children without consent...it may go fine, but if i was a parent of a child attending this event and you photographed my kid with the intent the images would be used for promotion i would raise holy hell!

Why do "photographers" allow themselves to be put in these positions? It boggles my mind. This sounds to me like a serious job with many risks and technical challenges...if it isn't, then bring 1 body 1 lens, snap a few pics and be done with it. If it is serious and they will be benifitting from your images then why are you doing it for free???? (Not to mention at considerable risk to your expensive gear).

Sounds to me like you just got suckered into working for free. Sry if you think this sounds harsh....

 

[ahsanford]

Having 2 bodies for event is huge plus.

All I can think of 2 bodies with 24-70 and 70-200. Maybe 1.4x tc attachs to 70-200 for extra reach when you out door.

Best wishes and be safe

Thanks!

I have an old T1i. I could leave the 16-35 on the FF rig and put the 24-70 on the T1i for an equivalent 38-112. But I don't have two flashes (the T1i pop-up is wretched) and the T1i would be 100% relegated to outdoor work.

Knowing all that it, should I bring it or leave it?

- A

Since this is unpaid gig...I would bring it for outdoor. I shoot with 2470 and 70200mm a lot. If I'm you, I'll put 70200 on crop for outdoor. Although I do not own t1i...I'm assuming the iq shouldn't be a problem for outdoor. Especially with 70200.

It's absolutely fine in daylight. And it's small to pack. I'll bring it.

- A

 

[ahsanford]

Sounds to me like you just got suckered into working for free. Sry if you think this sounds harsh....

Not harsh at all, but I really don't mind giving my services away in this capacity -- I was volunteering my time already.

But I will not risk my gear and I won't abide by an angry parent without the event host having an iron-clad 'here's what we'll use these pictures for' statement in my hand. I shot a friend's daughter's soccer game and a number of parents gave me the stink-eye. Though none of them confronted me, it was clear they were very uncomfortable with anyone other than a parent taking pictures.

- A

 

[Arthur_Nunes]

ahsanford,

be aware of using CPL with people dude...

it also removes reflections on people's eyes and you end up with dead fish looking eyes.

would be very usefull recreating some sort of zombie costume shot

 

[ahsanford]

ahsanford,

be aware of using CPL with people dude...

it also removes reflections on people's eyes and you end up with dead fish looking eyes.

would be very usefull recreating some sort of zombie costume shot

Agreed. I also hate how CPLs make the shadows on faces much harsher. I'd only use a CPL in a shot with people in it if I had a glaring sky/reflection in the background that I couldn't frame out. But knowing how much is going on indoors at this event, I'll probably be shooting with the UV on all day.

- A

 

[mackguyver]

All good advice, especially having 2 bodies, but I fear f/4 won't be enough indoors, at least without flash. Even f/2.8 is nearly useless indoors if there's low light. I'm assuming you don't have any fast primes, so be sure to bring several sets of spare batteries for the flash (at least 3-4, but maybe more). You'll burn through them in no time (especially with the Stofen) and don't want to be without them. Be sure to set your flash sync to "1/60-1/200s" or you'll get nothing but blurry shots in Av mode as it will expose for the ambient. Switch to P mode (no shame in doing so) if you get rushed and shots are looking blurry. Also, try to use ISO 400 or 800 with the flash to extend battery life and get better coverage of the ambient. Take multiple photos (at least 3) for group shots. Someone ALWAYS has their eyes closed or is looking at another camera.

Leave the 70-200 F/2.8L IS II in the car. It will still be close enough for you or someone else to retrieve if you really need it, but I doubt you'll use it and it's a bear to carry all day. The only exception is if you'll be doing any kind of head shots or individual portraits.

And YES, definitely take a gray card or white card. You'll have awful mixed lighting and will have a tough time with white balance if you don't have at least a handful of reference shots with the cards in them. Better yet, set a custom WB, but you may not have time to do that, and if you forget to switch it back, it'll tick you off badly.

Also, and trust me on this one, make sure both of your camera clocks are synchronized. Use EOS Utility and sync to the computer time, ideally. I have made that mistake before and unless you have PhotoMechanic or other tools, it's a major PITA to fix.

Finally, wear comfortable shoes and bring a comfortable backpack, bag, or vest, if you have one. Nothing says I'm a pro like a vest, too Good luck and have fun!

 

[ahsanford]

All good advice, especially having 2 bodies, but I fear f/4 won't be enough indoors, at least without flash. Even f/2.8 is nearly useless indoors if there's low light. I'm assuming you don't have any fast primes, so be sure to bring several sets of spare batteries for the flash (at least 3-4, but maybe more). You'll burn through them in no time (especially with the Stofen) and don't want to be without them. Be sure to set your flash sync to "1/60-1/200s" or you'll get nothing but blurry shots in Av mode as it will expose for the ambient. Switch to P mode (no shame in doing so) if you get rushed and shots are looking blurry. Also, try to use ISO 400 or 800 with the flash to extend battery life and get better coverage of the ambient. Take multiple photos (at least 3) for group shots. Someone ALWAYS has their eyes closed or is looking at another camera.

Leave the 70-200 F/2.8L IS II in the car. It will still be close enough for you or someone else to retrieve if you really need it, but I doubt you'll use it and it's a bear to carry all day. The only exception is if you'll be doing any kind of head shots or individual portraits.

And YES, definitely take a gray card or white card. You'll have awful mixed lighting and will have a tough time with white balance if you don't have at least a handful of reference shots with the cards in them. Better yet, set a custom WB, but you may not have time to do that, and if you forget to switch it back, it'll tick you off badly.

Also, and trust me on this one, make sure both of your camera clocks are synchronized. Use EOS Utility and sync to the computer time, ideally. I have made that mistake before and unless you have PhotoMechanic or other tools, it's a major PITA to fix.

Finally, wear comfortable shoes and bring a comfortable backpack, bag, or vest, if you have one. Nothing says I'm a pro like a vest, too Good luck and have fun!

Excellent guidance, thank you. I have amassed phone and SLR shots from vacations only to find a time shift that is a huge PITA to manage after the fact.

- A

 

[mackguyver]

Excellent guidance, thank you. I have amassed phone and SLR shots from vacations only to find a time shift that is a huge PITA to manage after the fact.

- A

I'm happy to share some of the more painful things I've learned and the timeshift is especially maddening. In my case, it was three cameras (I borrowed one from a friend and tripped it remotely) and an event on stage with numerous people where I had to get everything in sequence. One camera was set to daylight savings, and the others were several minutes apart. I didn't have any tools to fix it and the free tool I ended up using only adjusted the hour, not the minutes. That was also where I figured out that flashes overheat pretty fast if you use them a lot. There's a reason why pros use battery packs, which is something you might consider. I use the Pixel TD-381 Battery Power Pack for for Canon which is much cheaper than the Canon pack at around $40 US.

 

[agierke]

There's a reason why pros use battery packs, which is something you might consider

Battery packs can actually contribute more to flashes overheating as they dont limit recycle rate as much as AAs. That's why I DONT use battery packs and instead use highly rated rechargeables. I had a quantum turbo SC completely fry two 580ex flashes before I made the switch. Haven't had a problem since.

 

[mackguyver]

There's a reason why pros use battery packs, which is something you might consider

Battery packs can actually contribute more to flashes overheating as they dont limit recycle rate as much as AAs. That's why I DONT use battery packs and instead use highly rated rechargeables. I had a quantum turbo SC completely fry two 580ex flashes before I made the switch. Haven't had a problem since.

Ouch - thanks for letting me know. I'm more of a f/1.2-f/2 shooter, but sometimes use flash. The battery pack has worked well for me, but I don't go too crazy with the flash. I could see how easy it would be to overdo it, though.

ahsanford, since you'll be using lots of flash, scratch my advice on battery packs...