So frustrated with new 5DmkIII - returning it!

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In your original post, I got the interpretation that the majority of your shots were with a flash. Then in a later post, you said that you shot with the 580 EX II.


If that is the case, then the problem may lie in your setup. I was reading through another topic earlier this morning with a similar problem to yours. He said that when he used the flash (580exII), the camera seemed to be misfocusing for some reason. Another poster suggested that the flash may be the problem. He said something about how the 5d3 and 1dx AF systems are more compatible the 600ex flashes or something.

His issue was more of how the focus seemed to be a little slow. So perhaps the flash may be the issue.


But again, my post may be worthless if I interpreted your original post wrong
 
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bchernicoff said:
On the subject of JPEG quality I just did a test. I set the camera to RAW+JPEG, turned off Auto Light Optimizer, Highlight tone priority, and Noise Reduction and used Sigma 85mm f/1.4, 25mm extension tube, manual exposure at ISO 100, f/8, 1/180s, macro flash, tripod mounted, 2 second self timer to avoid shake. This is an incredibly sharp lens at f/8, so this should be a best case scenario. I took one with Standard picture style and one with Neutral picture style. In this setup the JPEGs show nearly the same amount of detail as the RAW. Looking at the histogram, the Red channel did overexpose, so I did botch the test somewhat. Still, by comparing areas that didn't overexpose I think the JPEGs look fine. I think the only real difference in camera setup compared to some of the initial JPEGs I took is the Auto Light Optimizer... it could be that this is what is killing the JPEGs. I will do that comparison tomorrow. For those of you curious, here is a 49mb zip with the in-camera JPEGs and the converted DNG files: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/32275661/samples.zip

I just had a quick look up of "Auto Light Optimizer" in the manual (okay, I read the manual...), but here is what it says:
Page 63: "In the <A+> mode, the Auto Lighting Optimizer (p142) will adjust the image automatically to obtain the optimum brightness and contrast. It is also enabled by default in the P/Tv/Av/B modes".
Page 142: "If the images comes out dark or the contrast is low, the brightness and contrast can be corrected automatically. This function is called Auto Lighting Optimizer. The default setting is [Standard]. With JPEG images, the correction is applied when the image is captured".

I think this is exactly whats happening. The side-by-side comparison you posted earlier of JPEG and CR2 showed the JPEG "more exposed" to my eye, washing out some of the details (softer). Not saying its the answer to all the problems being seen by others, but certainly explains your post observations.
Could it be that some are seeing this and not others suggesting that those not seeing the problem "may" be using Manual mode?

Similar issue with the flash usage? That is, is the flash creating an image of low contrast (according to the camera) and blowing detail in the auto-correction causing a soft image?

If you are experiencing soft JPEG images, what mode are you using? P, Av, Tv, M or B?
 
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jrista said:
JR said:
jrista said:
@JR: It sounds like your lens(es) and camera body may be out of alignment. Thats not really all that uncommon (all manufactured equipment has to be manufactured within certain tolerances, and when you have broadly compatible interchangeable parts, tolerances usually have to be loosened to a greater degree than would be ideal), and the primary reason most higher grade cameras like the 5D III include lens micro adjustment features. You may have a general adjustment problem, or it may be lens specific. The 5D III supports adjusting for both cases, however by default micro adjustment applies globally.

I would try micro adjusting your lens+camera combinations and see if that improves your results. You will need a calibration chart or device. For a chart, you might try this one: http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart (this site also includes very detailed instructions on how to print and use the chart.) If you really want to go all out and get things extremely precise, you should probably get a LensAlign device: http://michaeltapesdesign.com/lensalign.html. Canon cameras allow you to micro adjust per-lens, and I think you can store up to around 20 lens micro adjustment profiles. The camera will automatically select the right profile for a given lens when that lens is attached (I am not sure if that works with third-party lenses or not...Canon lenses are microchipped with a bunch of statistical information.)

Hopefully micro adjust will help, and prevent you from having to return your camera (and incur all that extra shipping cost and who knows what other costs.)

Thanks jrista this is a good suggestion indeed, just not sure I want to invest the time required for this MA since I tried before and lets say I am note he best at these test. Point is for a brand new camera, I feel a should return it and get a proper unit that does work ...

Keep in mind, both the lens and the camera have manufacturing tolerances. It sounds like you might have received a copy of the camera that is at one of the extremes of those tolerances. On the other hand, you may have a few lenses that are at one of the extreme ends of their tolerance ranges, and whatever camera you had previously was on the same end of its tolerances. Returning the 5D III for another does not, in any way, guarantee that you will get a good copy next time...or even the third, fourth, etc. times. It may not even be the 5D III that is "bad"...if it IS the lenses, then you could get any number of normally calibrated 5D III bodies and they would all perform roughly the same for your particular lenses.

Calibrating is not all that difficult...you point the camera at a 45 degree test chart, AF the lens on a given mark in the test chart, and examine the focal plane. If the lens+camera combination is significantly out of alignment (i.e. opposing ends of their tolerance ranges), you'll know right away, and one or two microadjustments will solve the problem. It may take a little more work to identify and fix a slight misalignment, however if you shoot teathered (as the one blog mentions), you'll see the results in large size immediately on your computer, and it still won't take long to correct even minor misalignment issues.

You could save yourself a lot of hassle of returning one camera body after the other to get a "perfect" one if you just align your gear yourself. Once its aligned...your good to go, and don't have to worry about it again.

You're right doing MA would be worthed. It is just the brick and mortal store I got it from is not that flexible about return, so I may just wait and get a unit from B&H instead and first thing I will do is do MA for all my lenses. That and I would like to properly test it when the camera is actually supported by RAW software! This way I put all the chance behind me!
 
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dunkers said:
In your original post, I got the interpretation that the majority of your shots were with a flash. Then in a later post, you said that you shot with the 580 EX II.


If that is the case, then the problem may lie in your setup. I was reading through another topic earlier this morning with a similar problem to yours. He said that when he used the flash (580exII), the camera seemed to be misfocusing for some reason. Another poster suggested that the flash may be the problem. He said something about how the 5d3 and 1dx AF systems are more compatible the 600ex flashes or something.

His issue was more of how the focus seemed to be a little slow. So perhaps the flash may be the issue.


But again, my post may be worthless if I interpreted your original post wrong

You know this would make so much sense. I mean I know about the MA and all, but MA cannot help me that much if I am shooting at f4 or f6.3, 12 feet away with a flash with a 35 or 50 mm lens! I know the new flash are really different, so maybe I need the 600 instead of the 580! Hummm, how can we check for this? Anyone with both flash?
 
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wickidwombat said:
oh dear I'm going to be testing the 580s tonight! I've only done some test shots with a 600 I borrowed from someone so far!

@wickidwombat, please let us know what you find with the 600 versus 580 flash!

photogaz said:
JR - can you post some examples of what you think is so bad please.

@photogaz, will try to post some later tonight when I get back from work.
 
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Update: for now I decided to actually return my unit which I did first thing this mornign before going to work. I will wait when we have proper RAW converter out and maybe learn more about the 5DmkIII before getting a new unit. For the next unit I will make sure to do MA for my lenses and also check if the 600 flash works better.

Since my local dealer did not have a new unit in stock, I will have to wait. Likley will get it from B&H next time. The dealer did try to bring me to the dark side when I returned it but told him no thanks! I will wait to get a good unit in my hands.

Thank you for all your post and comments!

:-[
 
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Bosman said:
LetTheRightLensIn said:
JR said:
Thanks jrista this is a good suggestion indeed, just not sure I want to invest the time required for this MA since I tried before and lets say I am note he best at these test. Point is for a brand new camera, I feel a should return it and get a proper unit that does work ...

The thing is each lens might need a different MFA, so a new body can't be a universal fix if MFA is the issue (although if the body is way off, and if if most everything seemed ok before, then perhaps the new one might at least make most of your lenses seem sort ok to the degree they had on your old camera, myself I fine tune every single lens+body combo, for low DOF shooting, sports, wildlife, I find it to be critical, 400mm f/4 has such thin DOF at certain distances that even a single step adjustment can make a difference).
All my lenses but my 70-200 II have been to Canon so they have all prob been brought to spec and being lucky with my camera also being to spec it all is magic. :D
It is expensive to send stuff to them but some people do get all their lenses and bodies calibrated for utmost accuracy.
For the best way i have seen calibration done go to this link:
http://arihazeghiphotography.com/MA-web/
Like Live view seeing the image you are focussed on zoomed in you use DPP to calibrate it, pretty sweet if you ask me.

I have bought the lens calibration kit from some dudes store online that makes them and I prefer to not really use it as it didn't work all that well in my opinion.

Has anyone tried this form of calibration yet? I have a 5D mkII, 1D mkIV and a bunch of EF lenses which are in need of MA. Is this the best form of calibration (outside of sending all my gear to Canon)? If so, a quick question regarding the distance to the target. By x20, does this mean that if I'm focusing a 200mm Lens, then the target area should be 4,000mm (400cm/4m)?
Thanks for any advice.
 
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JR said:
avangardphoto said:
Most likely user error to blame not the camera ;)
Mario
avangardphoto.com

Yeah, you must be right, after shooting aver 10,000 pictures with my 5DmkII I must have had a brain freeze and forgot how to use a camera all together when I got the mkIII - stupid me! :-X

Do you think the 61 AF points is something to get used to? I just wonder in case I move up so I know what to expect.
 
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So I have been thinking the EXACT SAME thing as JR...that's it's soft. I focus locks, I take the picture, and the image is soft. In camera I'll zoom to 100% and see how soft it is. It has been driving me nuts. About 20% of my photos are sharp, but even still, not that incredibly sharp. I was SURE it was my unit, and I had played around with af fine tuning...but decided to print out the test that was posted here earlier. I printed it out, did the test and WOW! That helped TREMENDOUSLY! My camera/lens was backfocusing. I had to set it to -15 to get it in the sweet spot. Now the images are MUCH more tack sharp. Thank you for posting that link to the Focus Chart. : )
 
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candyman said:
JR said:
avangardphoto said:
Most likely user error to blame not the camera ;)
Mario
avangardphoto.com

Yeah, you must be right, after shooting aver 10,000 pictures with my 5DmkII I must have had a brain freeze and forgot how to use a camera all together when I got the mkIII - stupid me! :-X

Do you think the 61 AF points is something to get used to? I just wonder in case I move up so I know what to expect.

Yes I could certainly get used to the 61 point system! Seriously while I did my test using the center point first to compare the camera and take a few variable out of the way, there is no denying that this system will be good and am sure my issue will prove trivial eventually or linked to first production unit firmware issue maybe.

Since I am getting the 1DX (no way I am going to Nikon over this!), I will need to get used to it afterall!
 
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