Speedlite Tutorials?

Jul 10, 2012
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Hi all, I'm a bit of a photography novice so am looking for some advice. I have just ordered a Speedlite 600EX-RT (and was persuaded to get an ST-E3-RT at the same time!). The reason for this was that I was having trouble getting non-blurry photos at a recent family gathering. It tuned out I had accidentally switched the ISO from Auto to 100, but by the time I discovered this I had paid for the flash! There have been a few occasions when I genuinely needed a flash so I'm not too worried.

From the above, it is clear I don't really know what I am doing. Can anybody point me to a "flashes for dummies" primer so I can take advantage of my new kit? I do landscapes (which are unlikely to need a flash), portraits and wildlife mostly (all amateur). I recently bought the 100mm macro (2.8L), which is probably where the flash will be of most use. I'm guessing the secret here is to have the flash off camera, which is why I didn't protest too much about getting the ST-E3.

I'm using a 5D mkIII and also have the 24-70 mkII and 70-200 (f4L).
 
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privatebydesign said:
Don't spend another penny until you get, read, and digest, this book. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0321832752/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&tag=pasoroblphot-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0321832752

He has another book too, but this one is more appropriate for you. If his rumoured 600 EX RT book comes out I'd recommend that but it hasn't appeared yet and he now has a full time educators job.

Thanks for the advice, I bought the Syl Arena book, but haven't had time to get into it yet. I also had a look at the Strobist web-site. I'm still waiting for the flash to arrive from Hong Kong.
 
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StephenC said:
privatebydesign said:
Don't spend another penny until you get, read, and digest, this book. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0321832752/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&tag=pasoroblphot-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0321832752

He has another book too, but this one is more appropriate for you. If his rumoured 600 EX RT book comes out I'd recommend that but it hasn't appeared yet and he now has a full time educators job.

Thanks for the advice, I bought the Syl Arena book, but haven't had time to get into it yet. I also had a look at the Strobist web-site. I'm still waiting for the flash to arrive from Hong Kong.


Nice. Be careful, off camera flash is a rabbit warren of gear, well intentioned advice, and medicine men. Walk slowly and enjoy it, then get the stuff you actually think will help you grow.

We are always here with free advice, example images always help too both what you are getting and links to shots you are trying to achieve.
 
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privatebydesign said:
Don't spend another penny until you get, read, and digest, this book. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0321832752/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&tag=pasoroblphot-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0321832752

He has another book too, but this one is more appropriate for you. If his rumoured 600 EX RT book comes out I'd recommend that but it hasn't appeared yet and he now has a full time educators job.

Thanks privatebydesign for the link. I just purchased the material and will try to go through this weekend.

I'm interested getting some lighting for home studio. Not sure if I should get some 600ex rt or just regular studio set. I like the ideal of having speedlite so I can take with me if need it. Any suggestions? Thanks
 
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The flash (600EX-RT) has arrived, so I've started mucking around to try and work out what all the buttons do (remember I am an amateur). I'm still reading Syl's book. I'm also chewing my way through the Speedlite manual. For now I think I will put the ST-E3-RT away and concentrate on working out on-camera flash. My first question is: what is the difference between ETTL mode and Ext.A? When would I choose one over the other? As far as I can work out, the only difference is that ETTL has the option of high speed sync.

I generally shoot in Av mode, as I like to set the depth of field. If I want to use the flash at it's most basic, essentially as the missing pop-up flash from my old 400D, presumably I would just leave it in ETTL and click away? I can then work my way into more sophisticated scenarios.
 
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StephenC said:
If I want to use the flash at it's most basic, essentially as the missing pop-up flash from my old 400D, presumably I would just leave it in ETTL and click away? I can then work my way into more sophisticated scenarios.

This is a good setup if you need the flash just to add a little light.
ETTL will also adjust to a bounced flash, so you don't have to think about how much light this wall/ceiling/reflector will eat up.

The "drawback" is that you are still using Av.
If you are in a very dark place, the exposure will lengthen and you might get blurry shots.
The flash will freeze parts of the image, but you still get the smear of the long exposure.

Two possible scenarios:
1) leave the long exposure as it is and set the flash to rear curtain sync.
This way the flash freezes the last moment of the exposure and you get some nice effect. Good for moving subjects, dancing, etc.

2) switch to M and let the flash compensate the exposure.

Even for the first scenario, I choose M, because I want to have full control.

StephenC said:
I do landscapes (which are unlikely to need a flash)

Are you sure?

http://strobist.blogspot.de/2011/09/mike-kelley-two-speedlight.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riTVghtbQ7E

http://fstoppers.com/how-to-use-a-flash-with-a-drone-helicopter

have fun :)
 
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and:

http://www.photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/index.html
 
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m said:
The "drawback" is that you are still using Av.
If you are in a very dark place, the exposure will lengthen and you might get blurry shots.
The flash will freeze parts of the image, but you still get the smear of the long exposure.

But there is a setting, on the camera, to limit Av shutter speeds to 1/60 - 1/200 (the x-sync for the 5D III), which essentially makes Av act like P, as far as the flash is concerned.

I haven't had time to read the articles you linked but I'm sure you are right, there will be times a clever photographer uses a flash for landscapes. At least I eventually worked out to use Landscape mode not Night Portrait (on the point and shoot) for after dark landscapes!
 
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StephenC said:
But there is a setting, on the camera, to limit Av shutter speeds to 1/60 - 1/200 (the x-sync for the 5D III), which essentially makes Av act like P, as far as the flash is concerned.

I only have the option to have a fixed setting of 1/250th as an alternative to a fully auto chosen speed.
Even with the option of limiting the speed to a certain interval, I'd probably still use M to get consistent results.

But this totally depends on your situation. If you have the option, try it and see if it works for you.
 
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Flash is a powerful and confusing tool to use. Strobist was a huge help for me in the beginning but I went to find old film books on flash because they are cheap as chips, still relevant and you can have 10 books for the price of one. The fundamentals haven't changed if your using a speedlite or studio strobe.
 
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I will do. Tomorrow, it is 11pm here. I am just reading the PhotoNotes article posted above. I'm guessing that the limited SS range setting on my 5D only applies when the flash is on, not all the time. It is in the Speedlite settings page. I will experiment. I certainly wouldn't want to neuter my available light Av settings.

I would use M mode but I find there are already too many settings to keep track of - see my 'needing a flash as all my photos have motion blur (because I set ISO to 100, not Auto)’ post at the beginning of this thread.
 
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StephenC said:
I will do. Tomorrow, it is 11pm here. I am just reading the PhotoNotes article posted above. I'm guessing that the limited SS range setting on my 5D only applies when the flash is on, not all the time. It is in the Speedlite settings page. I will experiment. I certainly wouldn't want to neuter my available light Av settings.

I would use M mode but I find there are already too many settings to keep track of - see my 'needing a flash as all my photos have motion blur (because I set ISO to 100, not Auto)’ post at the beginning of this thread.

I think you also need to understand the fundamentals of an exposure.
You had motion blur because your shutter speed was too slow. Yes, raising the ISO will increase your shutter speed, but you NEED to be looking at all of your exposure data to understand why you are getting the results you are getting.

Aperture + shutter speed + ISO = exposure.

The great thing is you are using a digital camera- so you can look at the back of your screen and experiment!
 
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StephenC said:
I would use M mode but I find there are already too many settings to keep track of

Just because it's M doesn't mean you have to tweak every image.
I usually don't change the settings, so M actually reduces the things to keep track of while providing consistent results from one shot to the other.
Again, the ETTL of the flash compensates for small differences.

Of course, this depends on the conditions.
 
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Dylan777 said:
privatebydesign said:
Don't spend another penny until you get, read, and digest, this book. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0321832752/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&tag=pasoroblphot-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=0321832752

He has another book too, but this one is more appropriate for you. If his rumoured 600 EX RT book comes out I'd recommend that but it hasn't appeared yet and he now has a full time educators job.

Thanks privatebydesign for the link. I just purchased the material and will try to go through this weekend.

I'm interested getting some lighting for home studio. Not sure if I should get some 600ex rt or just regular studio set. I like the ideal of having speedlite so I can take with me if need it. Any suggestions? Thanks

For a home studio I think the Speedlite route is the way to go. They are nowhere near as powerful, but for most people they are way more practical.

Stands: Manfrotto 420, a boom stand should be everyone's first stand, then I really like the stacking Manfrottos at whatever size you like, I have the BAC 1052's.

Umbrella brackets: There are many but the Manfrotto 026 (?) is the industry standard. I'd go for metal ones over the poly and plastic ones.

Modifiers: This is where it gets involved, but I'd suggest a Westcott Apollo 26" softbox, I prefer them to the Lastolite style. A convertible umbrella. A 5-1 reflector around 36" and I really like the collapsible style 78" kits, they give you huge scrims as well as black and white backgrounds.

This gives you enough to play with and to see what kind of light you prefer and the direction you'd like to go in, without committing too much money to something you won't use in the future.

Get a couple of gel sample books from B&H too, they cost $2.50 and are so much fun, they also teach you a huge amount about where your light is going.
 
Upvote 0
StephenC said:
The flash (600EX-RT) has arrived, so I've started mucking around to try and work out what all the buttons do (remember I am an amateur). I'm still reading Syl's book. I'm also chewing my way through the Speedlite manual. For now I think I will put the ST-E3-RT away and concentrate on working out on-camera flash. My first question is: what is the difference between ETTL mode and Ext.A? When would I choose one over the other? As far as I can work out, the only difference is that ETTL has the option of high speed sync.

I generally shoot in Av mode, as I like to set the depth of field. If I want to use the flash at it's most basic, essentially as the missing pop-up flash from my old 400D, presumably I would just leave it in ETTL and click away? I can then work my way into more sophisticated scenarios.


ETTL gives you inteligent through the lens metering of both background and subject, Ext.A is a throwback to guys like me who hated Canon's first implementation of ETTL (but we are now on ETTL II). Ext.A has a light sensitive sensor on the flash that when it is exposed to enough light, light that has been reflected back off the subject during the exposure, shuts off the flash in real time, kinda crazy cool, the trouble is it is comparatively easy to fool with reflective, or not, subjects etc so good control and estimation of FEC is important, its strength is its simplicity and consistency..

Ext.A has very limited, if any, use nowadays. It is far more productive to get a good working knowledge of ETTL II and its idiosyncrasies than anything else, particularly in dynamic situations.

Av mode for the camera, Speedlite in ETTL with HSS enabled is the beginners starter guide to speedlite fun.
 
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