AmbientLight said:
@Axilrod: Thank you for the useful tips. I would love to take shots like that. I especially like the first one.
My only serious problem is that I happen to be almost constantly in densely populated areas with massive light polution, so seeing the milky way like this just doesn't happen. Should I ever happen to get to a reasonably empty area at least now I know the settings to use.
Yeah it's all about getting somewhere dark enough and at the right time of the month. I shot some in Oregon in August (where it is pretty damn dark) and there was a half or quarter moon and the pics turned out nothing like this at all. Even if you drive just an hour or so outside of your city it will be a big improvement, shooting in pretty much any city is almost pointless. I wish I had been in New York during the blackouts, that would have been AMAZING!
I used to see pictures of the Milky Way and think that the people were doing something magical and amazing and doing crazy post processing (which in some cases they were), either way it seemed like it was very hard to do. And in some respects it is, but honestly finding dark enough skies is really 90% of it. Like I said, my buddy that has pretty much no experience got some amazing pictures after I adjusted the settings for him.
And if you have a Mark III (or even a Mark II) go ISO 3200, wide open or close to it, and do 600/focal length to determine the maximum exposure you can use before the stars start to blur. Some people do 500/focal length to be safe. And with the ISO you may want to use 1600 if you're only in a medium dark area.
Oh and this one people forget alot,
TAPE OVER THE VIEWFINDER! Or use the piece on your neck strap that is designed to go over it (but is difficult to get on and doesn't seem to work very well). Stray light can enter the viewfinder.
Other tips I learned from this experience and past research:
•Use a remote trigger when possible
•Focusing - Get in live view, punch in 10x and move the focus ring close to the infinity mark. You'll see stars come into focus and should be able to eyeball the sweet spot.
•Use Mirror Lockup and Silent Shooting (SS only if you have a Mark III)
•Turn off all in-camera noise reduction
•Tape over viewfinder
•White balance is debatable, but I shot these at 2800K as a starting point. Daylight balanced will make it look yellowish/red. 2800 may look a bit too blue initially, but it's a good point to make adjustments from.
•Take off the neck strap, heavy winds can cause enough movement to screw with the image.
•Be prepared to deal with the environment. Me and a buddy almost used an entire box of 24 hand, toe, and body warmers. Also, get some lights that will shine red, so if you have a time lapse or something going you can turn on the light without worrying about it picking up as much as normal light.