Studio Recommendations

[Daan Stam]

i used bowens 500r flashes and the are awsome! i used 3 but if you wanted you could just take one because they are a bit heavy. bowens also has really good battery packs

 

[LDS]

I am guessing I do want ETTL? Please advice. Thx

In most controlled studio situation ETTL is not of much use. What you may want is radio triggering to avoid cable clutter (usually more reliable than slave photocells), and usually remote control of light power settings - useful when the light source is in a position where it is not easily accessible without changing its position. Studio lighting is all about setting each light to reach the desired outcome, regardless of what a camera controlled computer may think
I'd suggest you to read a book like "Light Science and Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting" to fully understand the basic principles of controlled lighting, and understand what you really need beyond the marketing of photographic gear.

 

[ray5]

Thanks.
I have never done anything other than on camera flash, so going off is going to be a learning curve. I am guessing I do want ETTL? Please advice. Thx

The thread started with the subject being your home studio. Off camera studio lighting has little need for ETTL which will just cost you more $$. Getting the right manual exposure takes a few seconds. You've had loads of great advice in this thread, but you're going to have to make your own call and just jump in at some point. We've all started out with some degree of uncertainty but the way forward is to just go for it. You can research till the cows come home, but don't worry too much about getting something wrong. It's over to you now!

-pw

You are correct. There cannot be a perfect time or solution. What I am trying to do is learn from everyone else's mistake and success. Though I will make my own mistakes, I think it's prudent to learn from mistakes by others. I want this to be beyond GAS. I have mostly done landscapes and informal portraits but stepping into this more formally needs thought, money and most of all effort. I appreciate all the help I continue to receive here, I intent is to minimize unnecessary expense and get good gear, whatever it costs, rather than a continuous upgrading process. Thanks
Ray

 

[ray5]

But with this if I get more than one background I'll have to take one off and mount the other. Perhaps there are stands which allow more than one horizontal rod? And you pull down whichever background you want?

Yes, there are, but they need to become sturdier (and heavier) because of the added weight. For such needs usually the best option are ceiling or wall mounted hooks - usually they can hold from three to five rolls. They are a fixed setup, of course, thus you can't use them in another location. Depending on the ceiling height and your needs, you may need some mechanism to roll/unroll the backgrounds easily, Just remember not every background may be compatible with these systems, usually only those using a tubular core, many cloth ones usually don't. Usually, a simple pole works with almost everything.

If this is your first studio setup, and you don't need to change backgrounds very quickly because "time is money", IMHO there is little need of a more complex setup - and remember, GAS can be an issue in this situation too. And as said, remember safety is important.

Agreed. Get one background and then evolve from there. Makes sense. Keep it simple. Thx

 

[ray5]

i used bowens 500r flashes and the are awsome! i used 3 but if you wanted you could just take one because they are a bit heavy. bowens also has really good battery packs

Thanks.

 

[ray5]

I am guessing I do want ETTL? Please advice. Thx

I'd suggest you to read a book like "Light Science and Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting" to fully understand the basic principles of controlled lighting, and understand what you really need beyond the marketing of photographic gear.

Excellent advice and summarizes it all. Will do. Thx

 

[tpatana]

While the profoto and Einstein are awesome, for more price conscious buyer (=cheap/poor like me) one option would be like I did, get the Neewer 3x 300Ws studio kit. With all stands and stuff it's still only couple hundred bucks and you get 3 strobes with modifiers. I've been slowly upgrading parts here and there, my main light is now Flashpoint Rover 600 with 48" octa, I absolutely love that strobe, but at many cases the Neewers do decent job too. Did I say they are dirt cheap?

But if you know what you're getting, and know what you want, go with the good ones.

 

[ray5]

While the profoto and Einstein are awesome, for more price conscious buyer (=cheap/poor like me) one option would be like I did, get the Neewer 3x 300Ws studio kit. With all stands and stuff it's still only couple hundred bucks and you get 3 strobes with modifiers. I've been slowly upgrading parts here and there, my main light is now Flashpoint Rover 600 with 48" octa, I absolutely love that strobe, but at many cases the Neewers do decent job too. Did I say they are dirt cheap?

But if you know what you're getting, and know what you want, go with the good ones.

Thanks.

 

[ray5]

If I were to plan for a home studio in the basement and had a choice of having some source of natural lighting(windows) versus only artificial lighting what should I do? I have the choice of picking space without windows easier than one with windows but not impossible. Thx
Ray

 

[privatebydesign]

If I were to plan for a home studio in the basement and had a choice of having some source of natural lighting(windows) versus only artificial lighting what should I do? I have the choice of picking space without windows easier than one with windows but not impossible. Thx
Ray

It depends entirely on your schedule, i.e. what time pif day you can actually work there, many photographers have started out with only natural light, but in a studio it can be a mixed blessing depending on widow size and placement and their aspect to the sun.

In a toss up between the two I'd probably take the daylight, but I know well enough how to use it, a studio without the windows is more common and easier to deal with from a lighting setup point of view.

If you draw a plan view of the space with the windows I'll tell you what I would do in that specific space.

 

[ExodistPhotography]

Hi,
For a long time I have been wanting to start a studio in the basement. Non professional, mainly for family and friends.
I would like to finally get started, perhaps a background with poles would be a good place to start? I have no typical studio equipment like lights, stands, backgrounds etc. I currently have the 5D III, 24-70 F2.8LII, 70-200 F2.8LII, Zeiss 135, EX 580II speedlite and perhaps also an older speedlite. I would like to start slow so please also advise about sequence of acquisition etc. My hope is that whatever I buy, would/could travel with me in bags? But not absolutely essential. I have learnt that it's cheaper in the long run to get good equipment rather than spend on successive upgrades. Thanks,
Ray

You already have some amazing gear to start with. But to know what gear to recommend is little tricky without knowing exactly what you want to accomplish. So I will just start with what I recommend is the best gear you can get on a budget and get the best results possible.

First thing is we need to get that flash off your camera. I really recommend at least 3 speedlites to start with. I use the YN560 III and IV speedlites (A LOT) I actually have 8 on hand right now. Plus the YN560 TX controller, its inexpensive and convenient. Now you need 4 generic 9ft stands. I have the neewer pro ones, I would never use them at 9ft, but they are inexpensive and more then sturdy enough up to 7 ft. Dont forget sandbags, btw put rocks in these not sand.. Easier to clean up if there is a spill. You will also need a 43" round or a 24"x36" 5-in-1 reflector. Also get a 7ft stand and reflector boom arm kit. Reflectors are essential for getting light filled/bounced just right. I highly recommend a 18" beauty dish (w/ grid) from fotodiox. They are one of the cheapest and have really good quality in both build and light quality. Get one with the speedlite mount. Now I have two 12" x 52" strip softboxes (w/ grids) for my rim/edge/hair backlights from fotodiox. I actually got the ones with the bowens mounts (btw these mount/speed rings are easily changeable) and the neewer S-type brackets (bowens mount) to mount these to your stands. Trust me these are built like a tank and much better then the traditional metal brackets. As far as backdrop. Start with a 6x9 foot grey muslin, neewer on amazon has these for about $15 bucks.. Just use a spray bottle with water to remove the wrinkles. Position your model 3 to 5 ft away depending on taste to darken or lighten the background. I have mine handing from a 7ft stainless steel pipe and using eye bolt lag screws to anchor it to the ceiling. With this setup you can achieve professional results with a little practice. I will put a list breakdown below:

3x YN560 IV speedlites
1x YN560-TX wireless controller
4x 9ft stands
1x generic lighting boom arm (about 24 to 48" long max)
1x 7ft reflector stand with boom arm
2x S-type speedlite / bowens brackets
1x fotodiox 18" beauty dish (w/ grid & sock) w/ speedlite bracket
2x fotodiox 12x52" Strip soft boxes (w/ grids)
1x 43" (or a 24x36") 5-in-1 reflector
1x 6x9' grey muslin
1x Sand Bags (comes in a 4pk)

Total cost is about $700.. This is my main go to setup and it gets results that leave people speechless (in a good way LOL)

 

[ExodistPhotography]

If I were to plan for a home studio in the basement and had a choice of having some source of natural lighting(windows) versus only artificial lighting what should I do? I have the choice of picking space without windows easier than one with windows but not impossible. Thx
Ray

Go with speedlites. I will explain
I used to shoot pretty much only natural light, like anyone that starts out. However the day I set down and learned to start using flash correctly was the turning point in for me. I had always used a flash, as more of a on camera with a bounce card or diffuser on top. As just a way to get a better exposure when shooting at night, at parties, nothing serious. But when I set down and started shooting with it off camera thru a proper light modifier (not an umbrella) was the day that it dawned on me how much sharper, cleaner and detailed my images were over just using natural light. The difference was mind blowing, at least to me. I even use them shooting outdoors. Worried about IS or some form of optical stabilizer, who cares. With my speedlites at 1/8th power I am popping them faster then 1/1000th of a second. BTW, unless your at an event (weddings included) you should be shooting manual. I dont mean that is some elitist jerk who thinks everyone should be some manual machine freak. Not at all, when I am shooting flash I shoot manual on both the camera and flash units for exposure consistency. You will thank yourself when you go to batch retouch photos in lightroom.

BTW. I have a friend that shoots on those overpriced bowens b-cash systems that has continuous lights. He always tries to get me to get them.. hehe, not happening. However everytime they see my photos, despite him using I think a D800 and some really great lenses like the Sigma 85mm f/1.4. My images turn out sharper with my 70D and my Sigma 17-70mm Contemporary lens. Why? FLASH... Which is funny as he refuses to use YN speedlites as he thinks they are cheap? LOL He is the one using $3000 plastic flash lights...

 

[ray5]

If I were to plan for a home studio in the basement and had a choice of having some source of natural lighting(windows) versus only artificial lighting what should I do? I have the choice of picking space without windows easier than one with windows but not impossible. Thx
Ray

It depends entirely on your schedule, i.e. what time pif day you can actually work there, many photographers have started out with only natural light, but in a studio it can be a mixed blessing depending on widow size and placement and their aspect to the sun.

In a toss up between the two I'd probably take the daylight, but I know well enough how to use it, a studio without the windows is more common and easier to deal with from a lighting setup point of view.

If you draw a plan view of the space with the windows I'll tell you what I would do in that specific space.

Hi PBD,
Here is quick draw of the space I will have. Thx
Ray

 

[ray5]

If I were to plan for a home studio in the basement and had a choice of having some source of natural lighting(windows) versus only artificial lighting what should I do? I have the choice of picking space without windows easier than one with windows but not impossible. Thx
Ray

Go with speedlites. I will explain
I used to shoot pretty much only natural light, like anyone that starts out. However the day I set down and learned to start using flash correctly was the turning point in for me. I had always used a flash, as more of a on camera with a bounce card or diffuser on top. As just a way to get a better exposure when shooting at night, at parties, nothing serious. But when I set down and started shooting with it off camera thru a proper light modifier (not an umbrella) was the day that it dawned on me how much sharper, cleaner and detailed my images were over just using natural light. The difference was mind blowing, at least to me. I even use them shooting outdoors. Worried about IS or some form of optical stabilizer, who cares. With my speedlites at 1/8th power I am popping them faster then 1/1000th of a second. BTW, unless your at an event (weddings included) you should be shooting manual. I dont mean that is some elitist jerk who thinks everyone should be some manual machine freak. Not at all, when I am shooting flash I shoot manual on both the camera and flash units for exposure consistency. You will thank yourself when you go to batch retouch photos in lightroom.

BTW. I have a friend that shoots on those overpriced bowens b-cash systems that has continuous lights. He always tries to get me to get them.. hehe, not happening. However everytime they see my photos, despite him using I think a D800 and some really great lenses like the Sigma 85mm f/1.4. My images turn out sharper with my 70D and my Sigma 17-70mm Contemporary lens. Why? FLASH... Which is funny as he refuses to use YN speedlites as he thinks they are cheap? LOL He is the one using $3000 plastic flash lights...

Thanks for your detailed suggestions, very useful. I have so far done mostly available light portraits, some with a speedlite fill flash. For obvious reasons I am apprehensive about going with strobes but whatever I have read, the results are amazing. I have attached a rough draw of the space I will have above. The advantage having a window is that I can cover them when I want, how effective that is going to be I don't know. With taking up space without windows I control everything.
The left corner where the windows are is east and the wall with the door is mostly south facing, to give you an idea of lighting during the day. Thx again.
Ray

 

[privatebydesign]

If I were to plan for a home studio in the basement and had a choice of having some source of natural lighting(windows) versus only artificial lighting what should I do? I have the choice of picking space without windows easier than one with windows but not impossible. Thx
Ray

It depends entirely on your schedule, i.e. what time pif day you can actually work there, many photographers have started out with only natural light, but in a studio it can be a mixed blessing depending on widow size and placement and their aspect to the sun.

In a toss up between the two I'd probably take the daylight, but I know well enough how to use it, a studio without the windows is more common and easier to deal with from a lighting setup point of view.

If you draw a plan view of the space with the windows I'll tell you what I would do in that specific space.

Hi PBD,
Here is quick draw of the space I will have. Thx
Ray

I'd take the windows

 

[ray5]

If I were to plan for a home studio in the basement and had a choice of having some source of natural lighting(windows) versus only artificial lighting what should I do? I have the choice of picking space without windows easier than one with windows but not impossible. Thx
Ray

It depends entirely on your schedule, i.e. what time pif day you can actually work there, many photographers have started out with only natural light, but in a studio it can be a mixed blessing depending on widow size and placement and their aspect to the sun.

In a toss up between the two I'd probably take the daylight, but I know well enough how to use it, a studio without the windows is more common and easier to deal with from a lighting setup point of view.

If you draw a plan view of the space with the windows I'll tell you what I would do in that specific space.

Hi PBD,
Here is quick draw of the space I will have. Thx
Ray

I'd take the windows

Why?

 

[privatebydesign]

It is another light source, the corner windows give you a wrap around light source too! It isn't difficult to kill the ambient in a studio setting, unless the sun was directly in the windows the ambient is easily controlled, no studios are dark, they all have ambient and modelling lights.

I'd get tissue paper to cover them to diffuse the window light, and something heavier to cut it down.

Having the windows gives you options, for all our talk it is very difficult, indeed impossible in a small space, to truthfully replicate sunlight, the falloff properties of sunlight are unique (there isn't any).

Having natural ambient light in a studio makes it, in my experience, a 'nicer' place to be.

 

[ExodistPhotography]

Thanks for your detailed suggestions, very useful. I have so far done mostly available light portraits, some with a speedlite fill flash. For obvious reasons I am apprehensive about going with strobes but whatever I have read, the results are amazing. I have attached a rough draw of the space I will have above. The advantage having a window is that I can cover them when I want, how effective that is going to be I don't know. With taking up space without windows I control everything.
The left corner where the windows are is east and the wall with the door is mostly south facing, to give you an idea of lighting during the day. Thx again.
Ray

My small studio office is about 14ft by 14ft. So its a small space, but I have very large windows 2 of them are 4ft by 4ft, the other is 3ft by 4ft.. But even with speedlites I can easily get an exposure completely without any outside or other ambient light playing part in my photos. Yet still keep my speedlite settings on about 1/8th power or lower. Actually they are on about 1/16th most of the time. Even during the daytime with my office lights on, a camera setting of ISO200, 1/200th shutter and aperture of f/6.3 eliminates any outside light. And yea I like to keep the window curtains open as well. If you want to shoot consistently and at anytime you want, day or night. Don't let your environment control you. Take control of your light yourself. Soon as you go strobes, you dont go back.. LOL

If you are anyone else is worried about getting soft smooth light, just simply get a larger softbox. I have a 60" fotodiox octobox that I can pop two speedlites in and create light so smooth you would think who ever you photo'd was sitting under a shade tree in the late afternoon.. Smooth light is all about the the size to distance ratio of your lighting modifier.

 

[ExodistPhotography]

........ no studios are dark, they all have ambient and modelling lights.

.......

Having natural ambient light in a studio makes it, in my experience, a 'nicer' place to be.

Yea I have trouble getting enough light into my studio at times. Sometimes my 70D just doesn't want to play nice about focusing in darker areas.

Also agree, you dont want some one to feel like they are in a dungeon. A studio with a comforting atmosphere will help you bring the best out in your clients and create better portraits.

 

[LDS]

Having the windows gives you options, for all our talk it is very difficult, indeed impossible in a small space, to truthfully replicate sunlight, the falloff properties of sunlight are unique (there isn't any).

Real windows and proper curtains could also be nice "props" in some kind of portraiture and even still-life. They could be replicated - and often are - but they require a more complex, expensive setup and larger light sources. If needed (and possible), real windows can also be lit from outside using lamps or reflecting panels, it the Sun position is not quite good.