T2i vs. 60D vs. 5dMKII

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DO NOT waste your money on anything from tamron it will make you want to slit your wrists
they produce absolutely the biggest load of rubbish around you may as well set fire to your money
I got a tamron lens and was so appalled at the horrid build terrible image quality massive vignetting even on a crop sensor i sent it back and they exchanged it for a genuine canon lens.

If $ are an issue get the cheaper body for now and good glass, shoot for a year or so and wait till the new 5D model comes out then upgrade.
 
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REPLY FROM CANON!

This is what Canon says about this issue...any thoughts?:

"Thank you for your inquiry about the EOS 5D Mark II, EOS 60D and EOS
Digital Rebel T2i. We value you as a Canon customer and appreciate the
opportunity to assist you.

Of each of these, the EOS 5D Mark II and EOS 60D are the better choices.
The EOS 5D Mark II is the best choice because it has the larger image
sensor, so it manages the amount of noise a little better. Also, it has
all of the video options available that some other models do not have.

Video from each of these is still the same resolution and compression,
so there is not much difference except for what I mentioned above about
the larger image sensor. The EOS 60D does have one feature that you may
find very useful and that is the LCD can move around to different
positions. If I had the choice, and many others may agree, I would say
that saving a little of the cost on the body and investing in the higher
quality lenses is important if you had to choose between the two. Both
the EOS 60D and the EOS 5D Mark II will still produce great quality
video."
 
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Re: REPLY FROM CANON!

One thing to consider is that the 5D's sensor, while high resolution, captures the central portion with lower resolution than you would get from one of the cameras with an APS-C size sensor. Another way of putting it: The APS-C sensors make all your lenses appear "longer," and appear to make the area of deep focus larger. This could be good or bad depending on what you're doing: Wildlife (especially bird) photographers tend to like the APS-C cameras for the extra resolution centered around the middle of a lens, while landscape and building photographers generally need the extra degrees of view using their wide lenses on a wide camera. The full frame sensor camera (5D Mark II) also has better dynamic range characteristics, in addition to the better low-light performance, and a larger viewfinder (the T2i's viewfinder uses mirrors, and will be a bit dimmer than the 5D's and 60D's). Of the three cameras you mention, the 60D is said to have an autofocus system at least equal to that of the 5D, and possibly better. The 7D would be the best in terms of specs alone.
 
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Re: REPLY FROM CANON!

That seems accurate, but less easily understandable than simply pointing out that the APS-C sensors both make lenses appear "longer" and that the portion of the frame they cover offers more resolution than on the current FF camera (as you say, in terms of pixel pitch the 5D is stuck in 2004, all other things being ignored). It is confusing to say "when the subject is maybe 1/4 of the sensor" because you haven't specified which sensor - I suppose I could have made my lead sentence a bit longer (something I normally try to avoid!) by adding "...although the APS-C sensor will have no leeway for cropping." However, I could say the same of tallying up every other pro and con of APS-C compared to FF, which would be too much information to dump in one sentence. I have to take things one variable at a time when possible.
 
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Wow, hearing all this praise for the T2i is awesome and echoes my thoughts, I just got mine on Friday, and have been having so much fun with it. I have come from film, and what I like the most is how easy the transition has been from film to digital. All the settings I would adjust when taking a photo on my minolta are on my new Canon DSLR, and I've been able to jump straight into full manual mode. I had no idea how metering would work on digital, but it's actually really intuitive, and I love how your settings all come up when you look through the viewfinder.

Hm, I went off topic, what I mean today is how surprised I was with this camera. I never expected the image quality and video to be so good! I'm using Canon's 50mm f/1.8 ii lens (the cheap plastic one) and can't believe how good the toyish lens actually is :)
 
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Unless you have to have moire-free video immediately I'd get the cheapest body you can and then sell it next year when the Digic V-based DSLRs start appearing. For low-moire video from Canon I think the only option right now is the 5DII+that special filter (can't remember the name).

The lenses are going to be what matters in the long run, in 5 years all the cameras you can buy today will be way antiquated in the video department. I'd only get the GH2 if you absolutely have to have sharp, essentially moire-free video immediately and you don't need many lenses or are happy with old manual lenses (of course you can sell it when Canon releases its next-generation DSLRs if you haven't dumped a small fortune into m4/3). Canon's vast lens arsenal and commitment to video make it the best choice if you're in this for the long haul
 
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Everyone is making great suggestions/recommendations, but no one is mentioning the fact that dslrs are not great for documentaries. It's hard to run and gun and you're limited to 12 minute clips, which can ruin a great interview. Just a thought, but if you have to get a DSLR go witha 60d.
 
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If DSLR's stink then what would you recommend? I sold my Canon HFS20 as it had a "soccer" mom feel to it with no DOF or cinematic quality. It did better with action shots, audio, and long filming.

I could see doing an interview with a 12-minute max be problematic. Are there any workarounds to this? Also are there any workarounds to moire/aliasing?

Or am I better off getting a GH2 and learning how to make it "cinematic" looking in post-production?
 
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Colour Grading and alterting the picture in post will only do so much, if it's not there to begin with, it would be very hard to emulate shallow depth of field in After Effects or similar. The only way I can think of doing it would be to rotoscope around your subject that's in focus have another layer of the video underneath and blur it, to mock dof, but that would be a tiresome process, does anyone else have any ideas on this? Personally, I don't think it would be worth your time, however it would be valuable skill to have :)

I know what you mean about those little camcorders having a soccer Mum feel. The only work around I can think of for the 12 minute thing would be to have two cameras? But that's not ideal, and I can imagine it would be terribly problematic if it was during an intense / emotional interview, 'excuse me, I just have to press record again' haha!
 
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I realize that this post is a little old... but if you are still looking... there is a way around the 12 minute limit. Install Magic Latern on the Camera. It is really fairly simple... you just copy the Magic Lantern files to your SD Card... then setup your camera to accept it. All the details are on the Magic Latern site. They claim you could get 200 minutes + on a 16GB card.

I have also shot interviews with my T2i. I bought one of the Bescor LED Lights and mounted right on the camera. Shot with a 24-70L 2.8 Canon lens... great Bokeh on the background as this was at a company event while interviewing customers. Worked Great!

Lastly... if you could just pause for a few seconds while restarting the video every 12 minutes... then you wouldn't have to do anything to the camera.

Good Luck!
 
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I think the T2i was a great camera when it came out, but as cheap as the 60D has gotten it seems like a better solution. I don't think the 5D needs to be in this comparison, it's 4x more than a T2i and at least 2x more than a 60D.
The 60D is somewhat newer, has more control options, and the swivel screen helps. I just know out of the 7D/T2i/60D the T2i's menu feels the most consumer-ish. Don't get me wrong I loved my T2i, image quality was great, amazing bang for the buck, etc., but I could never go back after using the 5D this long.

The thing that kills me the most about the T2i is the ISO increments (100,200,400,800,1600) with no 1/3 stop increments. Sure you can get Magic Lantern firmware or whatever, but not everyone wants to put third party software on their camera.
 
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I wasn't advocating the T2i over any other camera... really just responding to the 12 minute limit issue. And really ... you are actually not loading the Magic Latern software on to the camera... sure it is loaded in memory when you have the camera turned on... however as soon as you remove the SD Card... it is Gone. It loads on top of the Canon OS... and not in place of it. Regardless... I haven't had a need to use it... just tested it once and say... "Hey... Nice!"...LOL

In regards to the 60D.. I probably would have purchased it when instead of the T2i, however it wasn't out yet. But I think that you will find from all reviews that the image quality between the T2i, 60D and 7D are all essentially the same (Same sensor, same digic processor... etc). The big advantage for the 60D is the swivel screen for doing video. Not sure how much of an advantage that is though if you are doing everything on Tripod. There are other advantages if you are shooting photo's however.

Anyway... Good Luck to the original poster!
 
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jasonmillard81 said:
If DSLR's stink then what would you recommend? I sold my Canon HFS20 as it had a "soccer" mom feel to it with no DOF or cinematic quality. It did better with action shots, audio, and long filming.

I could see doing an interview with a 12-minute max be problematic. Are there any workarounds to this? Also are there any workarounds to moire/aliasing?

Or am I better off getting a GH2 and learning how to make it "cinematic" looking in post-production?

Hmm, I would've kept that HF S20, unless of course if you needed the money to purchase a Dslr. I was looking through the specs on Amazon and it looks pretty decent. I purchased the Canon HF G10 last week for a ice skating chrismas show because it would've been impractical to have my dslr video setup due to lack of operating room (I had to flim from a stairway), long range, and attempting to pull focus on fast moving skaters for 2 hours. So logically a small camcorder attached to a monopod was the way to go.

I have to say, judging from the footage I got in comparison from a high-end video camcorder I used to own - the JVC Gy Hm100 - which cost double of the G10, the G10 kicks it's ass. It's easier to use, lighter - don't be fooled by the advertisements of someone holding the Hm100 one-handed it gets damn heavy just after 5 minutes - and the images coming out of the G10 are far superior.

One thing I was surprised to note was in the cinema mode it produced imagery akin to the DSLR's picture style of Cinestyle - which is a flat picture style developed by Technicolor for folks not aware - this is great for post editing. Although I would've perferred bringing down the contrast a bit more, the lowest you are able to go is -2 on all picture style setting on the G10 - lowering the contrast in camera even more would've given me a bit more latitude in color grading. This makes me wonder, are people aware that the cinema mode actually is a flat setting and should be color graded? Unless you come from a DLSR background working with flat settings you probably won't know to do so and will post it directly to sites like youtube. There is probably a certain amount of truth to this because I've seen some pretty dull and drab footage when I did a search on youtube prior to buying the G10.

Now the downside, this brand new G10 started to overheat - in a 50 degree environment - after about an hour or so of constant filming, which is bad for the sensor. From my DSLR experience you start to get increased noise and overexposure so I quickly turned off the camcorder and let it cool down for 15 minutes and resumed shooting. But as you can see, I lost 15 minutes of performances. I can only imagine how much longer it would take to cool down if you weren't in an ice box as I was or how much sooner it would've heated up in a sunny outdoor setting.

Also the G10 would get slightly confused going from low light - which performed very well - to increased exposure, you could see the video start to stutter on the LCD screen. Minor gripe but it's a flaw which affects the quality of your footage. Because the video files are AVCHD, they don't require a file conversion and are simpler to work with. However, simpler file means it's capturing less data than my 5D would so it's a tradeoff.

I guess what it comes down to is what you need the equipment for and what you can afford to spend. To go the DSLR route is very expensive. Even the 5D body in comparison is cheaper (unless you buy a 1D Mark 4) when you add in the L glass lenses (I hope to purchase a couple of Zeiss CP.2 primes -gag- next year), follow focus, video rig, external monitor, audio equipment, tripod, fluid video head, and all the little accessories you'll need it's enough to make your eyes bleed.
 
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jasonmillard81 said:
If DSLR's stink then what would you recommend? I sold my Canon HFS20 as it had a "soccer" mom feel to it with no DOF or cinematic quality. It did better with action shots, audio, and long filming.

I could see doing an interview with a 12-minute max be problematic. Are there any workarounds to this? Also are there any workarounds to moire/aliasing?

Or am I better off getting a GH2 and learning how to make it "cinematic" looking in post-production?

The main issue with buying a Canon DSLR based on what you have posted is really the fact that it lacks the ability to autofocus during movie recording. This really wouldn't be a problem for you if you were only shooting interviews but anything with action in it will ultimately take you some time to master - especially if you listen to these photographers with their recommendation for the 50mm 1.8, which is a terrible lens for video (the shallow depth of field at 1.8 and crummy manual focus ring would make it a pain to keep things in focus, not to mention its lack of image stabilization). Going with one of Sony's A-NEX cameras or some of the newer Nikon cameras that support autofocus during recording is always an option, but the downsides are that the still images and lens selection for the Sony cameras are sub-par and Nikon's video is not really that great.

Basically if you're getting a Canon rig specifically for video, go with the 60D, 7D or 5D Mk2 with a lens that is preferably not an EF-S and that has Full Time Manual Focus (most Ultrasonics have this) and Image Stabilization.

As for APS-C vs Full Frame, you will get a nicer DoF with the FF sensor and there will be less of a chance of you out-resolving the less sharp lenses, which you WILL be buying if you want to spend less than 1k. Which ultimately means that cheaper lenses will look better.

Here's an example (The 1Ds Mk2 is a 16.7 MP FF camera, the 50D is a 15.5 MP APS-C camera, the difference is clear.)

I hope that this information was a bit more helpful than the rest. BTW, I shoot video with both the 5D Mk2 and 7D on a daily basis for my job and I would say if you can afford it, go with the 5D Mk2 (the 24-105 f/4 kit is great for video).
 
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K-amps said:
I was an audio guy before I got into the photography thing.... you can get kilobuck mics and gear, but a $250 budget can land you decent gear...

Same here and you're right.

Not the most elegant solution but very well may be the cheapest that can deliver acceptable quality, a Tascam DR-08 (about $70 right now), a used Behringer Eurodesk 8 (about $30 on eBay) and a *fill-in-the-blank* inexpensive hypercardiod, shotgun or lavalier as depending on your needs, and you can get surprisingly clean good sounding 2496 files.

The trick is run the noisy DR-08 at line level and 0 gain then use the (surprisingly clean and quiet) EuroDesk to preamp and gain up the mic to suit, using the DR-08 record level meters to adjust the EuroDesk main out to the DR-08. Then take the recorded files directly from the SD card on the DR-08 for edit, do not attempt to re-record a playback to your workstation.

The DR-08 is not something I'd try to use by itsef, it's way too noisy. Given my expectations and what I've seen of the Zoom, I'd probably use it the same way I use the DR-08...i.e. running it a line level and 0 gain and preamping it with something quiet in order to get a decent S/N ratio.

If you need something more portable than the EuroDesk 8, a Juiced Link will do it but much more $ and not sure if it has phantom power.

For reference, I have kilo-bucks-a-plenty of audio gear for my music studio.
 
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The only thing about using second system sound (an external recorder) is that you have to sync it later in post. That can be tricky, especially with cheaper digital recorders that can drift. Really, it's easier to just buy a preamp and a good external mic and use camera sound. The 60D will allow you to monitor and adjust levels. The one thing that sucks in the 60D and 5D is that the HDMI output actually goes down in resolution when shooting if you have an external monitor. It's only HD in Live View mode when not recording. The 7D is the only DSLR that remains HD throughout. I'd say skip the T2i because of the controls. Buttons and the top LCD make a huge usability difference in my opinion. Going through menus sucks when you need to change something quickly.
 
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definitely the 60D; price / performance the winner

As far as lenses - Video just doesn't have or need the same resolution / quality as still so for video I would look at an 18 - 270 range lens (wide angle thru telephoto)

for stills, yes to the 50mm f 1.8 (again price / performance can't be beat); you might look at a 17 - 85 USM IS (non L glass) or a 28 - 135mm USM IS (non L glass - actually physically the same lens but different glass) as these are both good performers and lightweight --- then use them and see if the L glass is worth so much more, you won't lose much money when selling and you could buy then sell used (around 300 each)

You will (when you can afford it) want the 70 - 200mm F 2.8 L lens

You may want to get a good macro - the 100mm macro will do fine, but you might try using the 50mm f 1.8 with close up diopters (+1, +2, +4, +10) or extension tubes, etc. first and see if it is worth it to you

You may want telephoto, if you can afford them the newer canon 500 or 600 L glass and try a telextender to get longer, (note these will be a bit awkward weightwise so get a good tripod) NOTE: you can adapt long M42 / pentax screw thread mount lenses for MANUAL use, incredibly cheaper, as are telextenders for them; even find mirror lenses; and the glass quality for major brands is very good to excellent; even celestron made a 1,000mm F 11 that I can find on craigslist for $250; ... and then you can get a telescope adapter and go really really telephoto .......
 
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