tilt-shift question

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Jesse said:
Actually, apparently you're supposed to shift the camera, not the lens.
Yes but to do that the lens and NOT the camera must be steady. So the lens has to be fixed to a tripod somehow. In order to do that you need a special Canon TSE Tripod Collar from HARTBLEI.

See: http://www.hartblei.de/en/canon-tse-collar.htm

However, it is very expensive and there is something that is often neglected. If you shift a lot you will reduce the sharpness in one side (if you shift close to lens shift limit). In addition, depending on the aperture it may cause vignetting (although this is less of the problem since a closed aperture will probably be used).
 
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tron said:
Jesse said:
Actually, apparently you're supposed to shift the camera, not the lens.
Yes but to do that the lens and NOT the camera must be steady. So the lens has to be fixed to a tripod somehow. In order to do that you need a special Canon TSE Tripod Collar from HARTBLEI.

See: http://www.hartblei.de/en/canon-tse-collar.htm

However, it is very expensive and there is something that is often neglected. If you shift a lot you will reduce the sharpness in one side (if you shift close to lens shift limit). In addition, depending on the aperture it may cause vignetting (although this is less of the problem since a closed aperture will probably be used).

Sometimes, but really only when you have prominent near and far objects (parallax). For scenes that only are dominated by distant objects (i.e. skyscraper) or if you can get the strong foreground object easily within one frame, it doesn't really matter.

I'm curious as to how many people use something like that lens collar. I think I'd be tempted to get a pano setup that I can use for all my lenses rather than something that is so specific. A pano setup would also allow one to get an AOV wider than the shift limits of a lens.
 
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Random Orbits said:
I think I'd be tempted to get a pano setup that I can use for all my lenses rather than something that is so specific. A pano setup would also allow one to get an AOV wider than the shift limits of a lens.

That's what I do. The problem is that if you do a shift pano, for example to capture a tall building, you lose the ability to use shift to correct the perspective, and that's one reason for using a TS-E lens in the first place.

I do have a multirow pano setup, but I haven't yet tried it with a vertically-shifted lens (I've done single rows like that, though).
 
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Jesse said:
So just shifting the lens also works fine? Probably gonna be buying the 24 TS-E next month....

As pointed out above, it depends on the scene. Parallax becomes procressively more evident with closer subjects. If there are no close subjects in the scene, then just shifting the lens can work.
 
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Random Orbits said:
I think I'd be tempted to get a pano setup that I can use for all my lenses rather than something that is so specific. A pano setup would also allow one to get an AOV wider than the shift limits of a lens.
+1 That's why although I am aware of the TSE collar I didn't get it. It's much better to spend the money on a generic solution.
 
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scrappydog said:
A couple more tips: if you don't have a level in your camera, bring a bubble level and shoot level. Also, if you do a shift pano (which is very cool value-add to the lens) and use Photoshop, use Photomerge because it saves time.
I'd also like to recommend the open source pano stitcher (and other uses)...Hugin:

http://hugin.sourceforge.net

I've just started using it, learning from watching tutorials on their site and youtube...but early results have been quite good.

HTH,

cayenne
 
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