Usefulness of IS on Big Whites?

YuengLinger said:
How often do you use IS on your Big White(s)? From what I understand, the 300mm and 500mm models are the only ones close to practical for hand-held use.

Its extremely useful. I use it a lot on my 300 f/2.8 IS L II as I shoot lots of handheld action shots in relatively low light. The new IS "3" setting is great for this.

But I shut it off if I have shutter times of 1/1600 or better. The reason is that it takes just an instant for the IS to "settle" when on (one of the disadvantages of in-lens IS that is seldom mentioned on Canon-forums were there seems to be a taboo against claiming any advantages of in-body IS ::)).
 
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Maiaibing said:
The reason is that it takes just an instant for the IS to "settle" when on (one of the disadvantages of in-lens IS that is seldom mentioned on Canon-forums were there seems to be a taboo against claiming any advantages of in-body IS

Does IBIS stabilize instantly? Or, is it 'always on' (and how does that affect battery life)? How effective is IBIS with 300mm and longer lenses?
 
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neuroanatomist said:
Does IBIS stabilize instantly? Or, is it 'always on' (and how does that affect battery life)? How effective is IBIS with 300mm and longer lenses?

Its always on. Must cost some draw on battery. Since most pocket cameras has it I not sure its significant even if DSLR sensor is somewhat larger = somewhat more energy needed.

On DSLR effectiveness to my knowledge there is no agreed way of calculating this. Tests seem to vary widely.

The main advantage of course is that with IBIS all lenses are stabilised.

Recently IBIS also combines with in-lens stabilisation being on (have no info how this boosts the overall IS effect). After it has been shown you can have both I really hope Canon implements this.
 
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Maiaibing said:
neuroanatomist said:
Does IBIS stabilize instantly? Or, is it 'always on' (and how does that affect battery life)? How effective is IBIS with 300mm and longer lenses?

Its always on. Must cost some draw on battery. Since most pocket cameras has it I not sure its significant even if DSLR sensor is somewhat larger = somewhat more energy needed.

On DSLR effectiveness to my knowledge there is no agreed way of calculating this. Tests seem to vary widely.

The main advantage of course is that with IBIS all lenses are stabilised.

Recently IBIS also combines with in-lens stabilisation being on (have no info how this boosts the overall IS effect). After it has been shown you can have both I really hope Canon implements this.
I thought that IBIS had modes - at least one of the early models I used did. It was a Minolta, IIRC. You could set it to always on or only at the moment of capture, sort of like Mode 1 & 3 in the mark II lenses. That was a while back, though, so maybe they don't give you that option anymore.
 
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mackguyver said:
I thought that IBIS had modes - at least one of the early models I used did. It was a Minolta, IIRC. You could set it to always on or only at the moment of capture, sort of like Mode 1 & 3 in the mark II lenses. That was a while back, though, so maybe they don't give you that option anymore.

You are right. It can be always on. You can also switch it off altogether.
 
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neuroanatomist said:
johnf3f said:
neuroanatomist said:
johnf3f said:
Unlike the others I very rarely use the IS on my Canon 800 F5.6 L IS. Whilst I will use it if needed I haven't actually taken a shot in anger (with this lens) using IS since Jan 2014.
Since using the 800mm lens without IS I am getting a higher hit rate (especially on moving subjects like BIF) and faster AF. The differences are only slight but they are there. The above also applies to my 300 F2.8 L IS etc.
As you can see from the other posts most prefer to use IS - I do not, even when hand holding, though it is handy to have in reserve if the light is really bad!

You also don't have the MkII version(s) of the lenses.

They don't make it yet! I did try a 500 F4 Mk2 in mode 1 and it seemed the same as mine though I didn't try it for long enough to make any conclusions.

You mentioned the 300/2.8, of which there's a MkII. I've done some formal testing of IS on vs. off, there's no effect on sharpness IF the IS system is fully active. If you just mash down the shutter, IS is in the process of 'spinning up' when the exposure happens, and that can decrease sharpness (can be worse than handholding).

Got 3 lovely frames of a Bittern a few weeks ago. Closest I have ever got to one and the light was as good as it gets! I had time for 3 frames at 10fps (1/1000 sec, F8 at 250ISO), I wonder how many I would have got if I had to wait for the IS to fire up?
Don't get me wrong I feel that IS can be a good feature, it is just that I am not finding much use for it and I appreciate the extra responsiveness I get without it. I am sure that if I moved to a 500/600 F4 Mk2 the IS would be better but being a 1 stop faster lens then I would have even less use for it!?!?
If I can't get 1/500 sec with my F5.6 lens (enough for handholding) at useable ISO on the 1DX then it's time to pack up and go for a pint of Cwrw Tri! You might like the Cwrw Tri - it is a locally brewed dark beer. :)
 
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Maiaibing said:
neuroanatomist said:
Does IBIS stabilize instantly? Or, is it 'always on' (and how does that affect battery life)? How effective is IBIS with 300mm and longer lenses?

Its always on. Must cost some draw on battery. Since most pocket cameras has it I not sure its significant even if DSLR sensor is somewhat larger = somewhat more energy needed.

On DSLR effectiveness to my knowledge there is no agreed way of calculating this. Tests seem to vary widely.

The main advantage of course is that with IBIS all lenses are stabilised.

Recently IBIS also combines with in-lens stabilisation being on (have no info how this boosts the overall IS effect). After it has been shown you can have both I really hope Canon implements this.

Thanks for the info!
 
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