Video Question: What can I do to make it easier to see if the video is in focus
- Thread starter JonB8305
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Installing magiclantern will give you focus peaking wich will help by putting a redline on infocus subjects.
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paul13walnut5
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There are a few things you can do to help.
The first thing I would say is that I tried shooting video with a 5d2 before I bought my 7D, and found wide aperture focusing very difficult, aps-c is much more forgiving, but still achieves that large sensor look.
Use the lenses innate depth of field for certain subjects. Getting in close with a wide angle is much easier than zooming in with a tele. Same physics apply as for photography.. long lenses and wide apertures really throw the background focus out, but depth of field can be in the mm's.
Don't be afraid to stop down. Your lenses will be at their best a stop or two down from max anyway. Not everything has to be done in that wide open shallow dof style, you'll be surprised how a stop or two retains most of the look you want, but makes focusing much more forgiving.
Finally, use live view zoom to pre-focus before recording. Works well for fairly static situations. If you have parfocal lenses you can do this live, but many canon EF lenses aren't parfocal (that is, they hold focus through the range of the zoom)
If you want to spend some money on the issue and get better video then mechanical lenses are good, with focus end stops and large, well dampened focus rings. The Samyangs are a starting point.
Magic Lantern does have focus peaking, but many external monitors also offer this without having to run ML (I've never been all that confident with it)
I would avoid AF, AF assist, or AF reference points, many lenses are focus by wire, it would be good if canon introduced a temporary 'one touch AF' button, should be feasable with STM lenses, but until then..
The first thing I would say is that I tried shooting video with a 5d2 before I bought my 7D, and found wide aperture focusing very difficult, aps-c is much more forgiving, but still achieves that large sensor look.
Use the lenses innate depth of field for certain subjects. Getting in close with a wide angle is much easier than zooming in with a tele. Same physics apply as for photography.. long lenses and wide apertures really throw the background focus out, but depth of field can be in the mm's.
Don't be afraid to stop down. Your lenses will be at their best a stop or two down from max anyway. Not everything has to be done in that wide open shallow dof style, you'll be surprised how a stop or two retains most of the look you want, but makes focusing much more forgiving.
Finally, use live view zoom to pre-focus before recording. Works well for fairly static situations. If you have parfocal lenses you can do this live, but many canon EF lenses aren't parfocal (that is, they hold focus through the range of the zoom)
If you want to spend some money on the issue and get better video then mechanical lenses are good, with focus end stops and large, well dampened focus rings. The Samyangs are a starting point.
Magic Lantern does have focus peaking, but many external monitors also offer this without having to run ML (I've never been all that confident with it)
I would avoid AF, AF assist, or AF reference points, many lenses are focus by wire, it would be good if canon introduced a temporary 'one touch AF' button, should be feasable with STM lenses, but until then..
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Camranger will allow live view from my 5Diii to be displayed wirelessly on my iPad and includes focus peaking in latest software. http://www.camranger.com
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jdramirez said:
The AF points are deactivated and physically removed from the light path when the mirror is up in video mode. This diagram is with the mirror down, but you can see when the primary and secondary mirrors flip up (Live View mode), no light reaches the phase-detect AF sensors: http://leongoodman.tripod.com/d70/dslrchartweb500.jpg
As already stated, ML will give focus peaking assistance, however it's not available in a stable build on some cameras, and not available for the 5D3 running 1.2.1 firmware. This means you couldn't have clean HDMI out, or use cross-type AF point at f/8, or any other features and enhancements of 1.2.1.
One solution is using a clip-on LCD loupe to magnify the LCD. Several companies make these; I've used the Zacuto Z-Finder which is good.
Another solution is a field monitor which has focus peaking built in. Yet another is an EVF.
The Zacuto EVF Pro is my preferred solution since it provides another point of contact to stabilize the camera, shields your eye in bright conditions, is more private than a field monitor, plus has focus peaking and zebra exposure aids.
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JonB8305 said:
I also agonized a long time before getting it. It is the best money I've ever spent on DSLR video. It absolutely transforms my ability to nail focus and exposure, plus the additional contact points helps stabilization.
You have other options at lower price points. The Zacuto Z-Finder (several models available) are good. There are competing products from Hoodman: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/573167-REG/Hoodman_H_LPP3_HoodLoupe_Professional_LCD_Screen.html and Cinevate: http://www.cinevate.com/store2/cyclops-viewfinder.html#sthash.RQV9s3yl.dpbs
RedRock Micro announced an EVF back in 2011, but they have not shipped it yet: http://store.redrockmicro.com/EVF
Cineroid has an EVF that's a little cheaper than the Zacuto: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=982065&Q=&is=REG&A=details
Your best low-cost approach is an LCD loupe of some kind. This also avoids the HDMI sync delays (a few sec) when you switch between still and video mode.
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Without a doubt I would go with the SmallHD AC7-OLED monitor. I use it with my TS-E 17mm and love it. Why bother wasting a butt load of time zooming in when you can let the software tell you when you are in focus?
Bright as heck in full sunlight also. http://www.smallhd.com/products/ac7/index.html
Bright as heck in full sunlight also. http://www.smallhd.com/products/ac7/index.html
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Well I see several answers that'll solve the question in the thread here, but just have to say: "F/8 and be there" 
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paul13walnut5
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Nishi Drew said:Well I see several answers that'll solve the question in the thread here, but just have to say: "F/8 and be there"
If it works for you then great.
Personally, as in video you already cede control over the shutter, and would usually seek lowest or at least uniform ISO for consistency accross frames, the last thing I would do would be to restrict myself to one aperture, especially such a slow one.
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I really like the focus peaking on the SmallHD DP4. They make an EVF for it which is nice in the sun.
http://www.smallhd.com/products/dp4/index.html
http://www.smallhd.com/products/dp4/index.html
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