I often do individual portraits at 2.8 (with a 70D). Are you saying that a 24-70 would be a perfect complement to my 10-18 and 85 1.8 (and I'm sticking with crop for awhile if not forever)?
Upvote
0
Canon 24-70mm F2.8 would be a great addition to 10-18mm and 85mm. Another good option (only APS-C) is Canon 17-55mm f2.8 Image Stabilizer.Cory said:I often do individual portraits at 2.8 (with a 70D). Are you saying that a 24-70 would be a perfect complement to my 10-18 and 85 1.8 (and I'm sticking with crop for awhile if not forever)?
keithfullermusic said:I have the 85L, 100mm macro, and the 70-200 2.8 ii, and i would hands down day the 70-200. It is incredibly versatile and the IS is amazing. The 85 is magic, there is no doubting it, but with most portraits you're using lights and stopped down to 5.6-11, and the 1.2 is of no use. Also, shooting at 135-200 makes a face look better nearly every time.
If you are doing events and weddings I'd maybe say the 85, but for business portraits it's the 70-200 without a doubt.
And that what differs corporate from beach portrait. Some people seem to be surprised why the OP would shoot at 4-5.6 or above.Ivan Muller said:I never use them wide open because the depth of field is zero and one eye oof always looks a bit weird to me... I think these were done at f8 and about 220mm
Your 50/2 is around 80mm FL in your 650D and you say sometimes you don't have space, why to look for something that required longer distance and bigger spaces. Just get the Canon EF 35mm f2 IS, it is just as sharp as any other you mentioned and gives you around 56mm FL.benique said:Thanks for your comments and suggestions. The Canon 70-200 2.8 IS II is pretty heavy with a weight of 1.5 Kg. Can my camera support that when mounted on a tripod? Do I have to mount the camera or the lens on the tripod? Is the extra weight and cost (4x - 5.5x) worth it when I'm only going to use a small part of it's range?
How's the auto focus and image quality of the 70-200 2.8 IS II compared to the 85 1.8 and 100 2?
I don't have a studio. I'm not doing weddings and and I'm not planning to do events in the near future. I'm usually shooting portraits indoors at my customers offices with speed lights and my 50mm @F5.6-8. I often don't have that much space when shooting portraits. So I would only use a range of about 50-100mm.
PureClassA said:I have shot on many occasions at 2.8 and bigger in a studio with strobes for effect. Here:
http://shields-photography.com/p1071533385/h3BCECE62#h270b96b0
This is from memory, since it is quite a while since I had the version I and I have not used them on the same body, so I do not have any objective material to look at. I don´t have any of them now, because I sold it when I got the 85mm Otus.lux said:How about a comparison between 85 L I and 85 L II. opinions? I have the opportunity to purchase at 85 L I at a good price. How much better is the II?
lux said:How about a comparison between 85 L I and 85 L II. opinions? I have the opportunity to purchase at 85 L I at a good price. How much better is the II?
PureClassA said:Yes I'd say the bulk of portraiture is shot at smaller aps because you want the DOF and you have strobes that only reduce power so much and some of which can't accommodate 2.8 or bigger aps .... however while on the surface I agree with Famatuer about not "wasting money" on large ap lenses, I wouldn't toss it out. I have shot on many occasions at 2.8 and bigger in a studio with strobes for effect. Here:
http://shields-photography.com/p1071533385/h3BCECE62#h270b96b0
I don't have the data with me, but I'm pretty sure I did that with my 35 (perhaps 50) ART at or near wide open (f2 or f1.4) with strobes. How? People often forget you CAN shoot with an ND filter. This one is a 3 stop filter. So If you can get your strobes down to yield f4-5.6 with a 3 stop ND on your glass....Blam. f1.4 to f2 and you can get the DOF you want.
This is why I love the Sigmas. They are unbeatable for the price and if you have a crop now, 35-50mm would be very nice and still be extremely useful once at FF (moreso the 50mm)
https://flic.kr/p/q67NibPookie said:...all intents and purposes...![]()
Act444 said:The 85 1.8 seems like a good choice.
I had that lens and it was excellent. And if you're shooting primarily about f5.6 there's no need to even think about the pricey 1.2 version. At f5.6 one probably won't be able to tell much difference. The 100 f2 is great as well, but think you will find it a tad long on crop.
Frankly, same with the 70-200 series, if that interests you - the f4 version is significantly lighter, cheaper and for all intents and purposes, JUST AS SHARP as the 2.8 II version. I know; I have both. At f4 the 2.8 will have brighter corners on FF but at 5.6, little to no difference.
It's a Nikkor 50 F2. It is very sharp, has very low distortion, very low CA, the focusing ring is buttery smooth and I got it for a very low price. The last image is a 100% crop taken using that lens @F5.6 or @F8. I opened the RAW file in Photoshop with the standard settings without editing anything.anthonyd said:So why do you love your 50/1.4 so much?