Which tripod head?

[Sabaki]

hi everyone

Firstly, my apologies if this topic has been raised before. But onto my question.

As posted earlier this week, I just purchased a TS-E lens and as macro is my favourite genre, I'm looking at a more precise instrument than my basic 3-way lever head.

After about 90min on Google, it seems most conversations are about a landscape head or a macro head but not which for both.
The articles point towards ball and geared heads, with the former mentioned for landscapes and the latter, macro.

Would getting a geared head provide the precision for working with macro and a TS-E lens or is the mechanics thereof cumbersome and counterproductive? Or is the ball head an all round better option?

Thanks guys

 

[eli452]

My solution was a (Markins) ball head + Macro focusing rail (the B150-B from RRS http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/Shop/Closeup-Macro/B150-B-Macro-focusing-rail.html)

 

[privatebydesign]

The head you seek is the KPS T5

https://luminous-landscape.com/the-kps-t5-geared-ballhead-review-and-users-report/

I use TS-E lenses a lot and have this comparative cheapie. Though the truth is it does have rather more backlash than is ideal!

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-SUNWAYFOTO-GH-PRO-geared-head-made-for-Gitozo-Manfrotto-benno-tripod/1628741_32279007596.html

If they are both still too rich for you then get the Manfrotto 410 and get the Hejnar convertion to AS mount.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124665-REG/Manfrotto_410_410_Junior_Geared_Head.html

http://www.amazon.com/Hejnar-Photo-Arca-Conversion-Manfrotto/dp/B00STUEMCA

Anybody that says ballheads are to be used with T/S lenses doesn't use them. Geared heads are much more suitable, along with one of these.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/742152-REG/Interfit_STR143_Hotshoe_3_Way_Bubble_Level.html

For macro and T/S shooting I would take a geared head every single time.

 

[Deleted member 91053]

I don't have a T/S lens but I fully agree with Private! Macro, landscapes, architecture - anything where the subject doesn't move and precise framing is desired then geared heads are the way to go.
I use the Manfrotto 410, a little heavy but precise and affordable.

I do, sometimes, use a ball head but I find it a bit vague and fiddly if I want a specific framing. However, coupled with a light tripod, it is great for going up hills. The Geared head + a decent tripod is a little heavy for this sort of thing but far better in more normal circumstances.

 

[danski0224]

+1 on the KPS T5.

The Sunwayfoto GH PRO is well made, but the design does not allow it to be locked down in any way- a very significant flaw without even considering the lash play. It takes far less than the rated capacity to make this geared head move on it's own. Visually, it is a copy of an Arca Swiss D4 and I do not know if the D4 has the same operational characteristics. It (GH Pro) is not available within the USA unless you order it direct from China or from one vendor on that big auction site.

The KPS T5 locks down and will not move, yet adjustments are relatively easy as long as the operator is aware of the range and keeps it relatively centered. It is easy to keep making adjustments and run the knob to the stop.

As far as I know, the only other option is the Arca Swiss Cube.

 

[Bennymiata]

I use a geared head (Manfrotto 410) and a ball head (Acratech GP).
For still objects, the geared head is what I use.

There is now a smaller and lighter geared head from Manfrotto which looks interesting to me, especially for carrying around.

 

[privatebydesign]

The Sunwayfoto GH PRO is well made, but the design does not allow it to be locked down in any way- a very significant flaw without even considering the lash play. It takes far less than the rated capacity to make this geared head move on it's own.

I have put a 300 f2.8 IS, 2xTC and a 1Ds MkIII on the Sunwayfoto GH PRO and it will not, ever, "move on it's own".

Indeed the more weight you put on it the more solid it is.

 

[danski0224]

I have put a 300 f2.8 IS, 2xTC and a 1Ds MkIII on the Sunwayfoto GH PRO and it will not, ever, "move on it's own".

Indeed the more weight you put on it the more solid it is.

Not in my experience.

If I put the combination you listed on the one I had, it would have flopped over by itself. There was no way to lock down the gears after things were adjusted "just so". Even a canon 180 macro and a 5D body was problematic with the gear lash.

Maybe I had a bum one. It would have been fine for something like an EOS M....

Considering what it took to buy one and the shipping penalty to send it back, I would not try another- nor would I recommend one. Re-selling mine at a loss was cheaper than shipping it back to the seller in Israel.

 

[privatebydesign]

I have put a 300 f2.8 IS, 2xTC and a 1Ds MkIII on the Sunwayfoto GH PRO and it will not, ever, "move on it's own".

Indeed the more weight you put on it the more solid it is.

Not in my experience.

I think you had a bum one, QC doesn't seem to be high on these.

 

[danski0224]

Yup, if I put that on the one I had... better be ready to catch the camera as the tripod head flopped over.

The KPS is a *much* better product for a relatively small increase in cost.

 

[Zeidora]

Do you do a lot of ground level macro? If so, then height of head is important. I used to have an AS B1, which is about as tall as the KPS. I now have a RRS BH55, which is much lower in profile and that makes a huge difference for flowers and mushrooms. For precision adjustments, I would also use a 1 or 2 axis focusing rail. If you think about focus stacking, then get the motorized Cognisys StackShot.

The KPS sure looks interesting if geared movements is important. The AS cube has the advantage in head height. Considering the height of the KPS plus 1-2 axis macro rail, plus collared foot of 180M or MPE65, maybe add a MT24, the set-up gets quickly top heavy.

Although I have not worked with a Canon TSE, I do shoot 4x5" AS compact classic (not metric) on a regular ball head and have not found the absence of geared movements on either head or font or rear standards to be an issue. I guess it depends a bit on people's manual dexterity. I'm used to doing fine dissections under the stereomicroscope, so that might be a factor.

I notice that the bubble level on my RRS QR plate and the electronic level of the 5DsR are quite out of register. Rather fascinating. Fortunately, I don't do panoramics.

 

[Sabaki]

Do you do a lot of ground level macro? If so, then height of head is important. I used to have an AS B1, which is about as tall as the KPS. I now have a RRS BH55, which is much lower in profile and that makes a huge difference for flowers and mushrooms. For precision adjustments, I would also use a 1 or 2 axis focusing rail. If you think about focus stacking, then get the motorized Cognisys StackShot.

The KPS sure looks interesting if geared movements is important. The AS cube has the advantage in head height. Considering the height of the KPS plus 1-2 axis macro rail, plus collared foot of 180M or MPE65, maybe add a MT24, the set-up gets quickly top heavy.

Although I have not worked with a Canon TSE, I do shoot 4x5" AS compact classic (not metric) on a regular ball head and have not found the absence of geared movements on either head or font or rear standards to be an issue. I guess it depends a bit on people's manual dexterity. I'm used to doing fine dissections under the stereomicroscope, so that might be a factor.

I notice that the bubble level on my RRS QR plate and the electronic level of the 5DsR are quite out of register. Rather fascinating. Fortunately, I don't do panoramics.

Thanks everybody

I just have to say, this really is my very favourite photographic community by far. The sum of knowledge on these boards are a superb resource for when one needs to learn something

Hey Zeidora Thank you for that bit of advise.

I took my very first pano yesterday, I'm in the experimentation phase with my TS-E 24mm. I think the key for me when it comes to gear, is versatility. I want to know that I have a reasonable opportunity to photograph any style and not be prohibited by a careless purchase.

I'm jotting down all these options so far

 

[Hector1970]

I went for a Manfrotto 310 Gear Head.
It's big and heavy which is good and bad.
Small adjustments are easily made.
Big adjustments take a bit of time to do (each turn is only a small movement).
The 310 is ideal for landscape photography to get level and make micro adjustments.
Ball heads are much hard to get exactly right.
Alot of them droop unless they are very expensive.

 

[brad-man]

I went for a Manfrotto 310 Gear Head.
It's big and heavy which is good and bad.
Small adjustments are easily made.
Big adjustments take a bit of time to do (each turn is only a small movement).
The 310 is ideal for landscape photography to get level and make micro adjustments.
Ball heads are much hard to get exactly right.
Alot of them droop unless they are very expensive.

On the Manfrotto 410 head, the larger grips inside of the smaller ones are used for large adjustments. They free the head for large adjustments. The small dials are for fine tuning.

 

[Deleted member 91053]

I went for a Manfrotto 310 Gear Head.
It's big and heavy which is good and bad.
Small adjustments are easily made.
Big adjustments take a bit of time to do (each turn is only a small movement).
The 310 is ideal for landscape photography to get level and make micro adjustments.
Ball heads are much hard to get exactly right.
Alot of them droop unless they are very expensive.

Not necessarily. 30 GBP for the head and 10 GBP for the QR clamp - makes the Gitzo look a bit bendy!

 

[Hector1970]

Looks like a bargain. Does it hold it straight. It's a little tilted or bending in the picture.
An unusual pairing with a Gitzo. I hope you get some great photos with the set up.

 

[Deleted member 91053]

Looks like a bargain. Does it hold it straight. It's a little tilted or bending in the picture.
An unusual pairing with a Gitzo. I hope you get some great photos with the set up.

The angle of the setup is entirely down to me! It was late at night and after a long evening at a local hostelry!
This was done merely to show what this little head is capable of - I do not use lenses like this on ball heads and would advise against it.
As you can see it is very much out of balance and there is flex (not creep) in the setup - the Gitzo is a little bendy for this sort of thing, after all it's only a 3 series. The head has by far the best lockup of any ball head I have yet tried including a couple of rather expensive and much larger ones from the land of Toblerone that I tried out.