The Canon EOS R5 Has Officially Been Discontinued
not sure that is fair. 5d4 does some things better, but my daughter really likes the R because of the exposure simulationAside from it being a gimped form of the 5D Mark IV.
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not sure that is fair. 5d4 does some things better, but my daughter really likes the R because of the exposure simulationAside from it being a gimped form of the 5D Mark IV.
I see the rear snap in filter in The Digital Pictures review. Not ideal but better than no filter at all.Am I confused by this feature then?
- Built-in support of Canon EF-to-EOS R mount adapter drop-in filters (Clear, CPL, Variable ND) plus Lens Lock/Limit, Lens Function button and Control Ring.
To be clear, the 14/1.4 does not take a front filter. It does have a rear gel slot. At some point, Fotodiox or someone else might make an adapter to take the salad plate sized filters like the 145mm ones I have for my TSE 17.
That’s because you’ve not been a 1 series owner ;-)My experience with all the PowerShots I have owned is that something ‘mechanical’ happens after 30-40k shutter actuations. The shutter or IS gets ‘sticky,’ or the complex non-linear guides on the collapsing zoom/focus lens barrels get worn down and loose.
Why some prefer this and others prefer that may depend to a large extent on the size of one's hands. My son refers to mine as of gorilla's standard size...I like the idea, I don't like the controls. Requiring two dials to operate such a simple design without at least trying to match the previous arrangement is diabolical to me
It would be nice if it could be operated with the joystick, in four directions, like the menu.
I prefer the power switch on the left, but I know I could use it on the right, I would easily deal with that. However, it's not on the right, currently, it's at the top and aimed at the front. The thumb can't get there, the index finger needs to bend, it's just not a good design, in my opinion.
Same issue for the lock switch, specifically because it's aimed at the front. For instance, the RP has the lock switch in the same place, but aimed at the right, which is great, since the thumb can easily reach it. You can lock and unlock without having to adjust the right hand entirely.
Can't argue with that
No it's not
These cameras were released in mid 2020.
You could also scratch the focal on the front lens. An efficient and cost saving way for all theI have never had to label lenses, I always knew which lens was which, no matter how it sitting in the bag.
The VCM lenses have changed that! It's a great problem to have, I love the lenses,. I'll have 4 of them once the 14 arrrives. I do need some of these back caps in my life. I have 3D printed some, but my printer can't use the harder filaments. PLA doesn't work well for very long. I could get them made, but those would be expensive caps.
Has anyone seen lens caps that are similar? I don't want the pinch caps, I may be weird, but I have never liked them. My hands are too big to fit inside a lens hood anyway. I haven't looked hard, but sometimes the microbrands are well hidden.
Sure, I could just label them myself, but supporting people making a living in this niche is worthwile.
Lenzbuddy has custom front lens caps, from 43 to 95mm, prices from $13 to $ 20, depending on the amount of information you want on the cap.I have never had to label lenses, I always knew which lens was which, no matter how it sitting in the bag.
The VCM lenses have changed that! It's a great problem to have, I love the lenses,. I'll have 4 of them once the 14 arrrives. I do need some of these back caps in my life. I have 3D printed some, but my printer can't use the harder filaments. PLA doesn't work well for very long. I could get them made, but those would be expensive caps.
Has anyone seen lens caps that are similar? I don't want the pinch caps, I may be weird, but I have never liked them. My hands are too big to fit inside a lens hood anyway. I haven't looked hard, but sometimes the microbrands are well hidden.
Sure, I could just label them myself, but supporting people making a living in this niche is worthwile.
These are indeed from Field Made Co. I used the customization option to adapt the ring color - red for L lenses, crazy, no ?Very nice! Where did you get those caps from?
DIY ?
I see you own the whole collection, the 14mm must certainly be on order...

There are multiple suppliers for lens cap labels, in addition to fieldmade, e.g. alphagvrd: https://alphagvrd.com/products/rear-lens-cap-focal-length-stickersVery nice! Where did you get those caps from?
DIY ?
I see you own the whole collection, the 14mm must certainly be on order...
This is what my search engine told me:Very nice! Where did you get those caps from?
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Very nice! Where did you get those caps from?Workarounds existView attachment 227895
I like the idea, I don't like the controls. Requiring two dials to operate such a simple design without at least trying to match the previous arrangement is diabolical to meI lovethe new M-Fn menu and its 2 levels.
I prefer the power switch on the left, but I know I could use it on the right, I would easily deal with that. However, it's not on the right, currently, it's at the top and aimed at the front. The thumb can't get there, the index finger needs to bend, it's just not a good design, in my opinion.I lovethe power switch on the right side, especially when including a "lock" position.
Can't argue with thatAnd hate the video-stills switch on the left, had to disable mine with 3M's strongest duct-tape.
No it's notMine is 6.5 years old
Yes and no: For slow-moving and wide images that is my usual solution: the much larger opening of a 35mm lens is gathering MUCH more light compared to a 14mm lens which will give you a much better s/n ratio for the post-processing (nebula etc.). Potential parallax errors are usually no problem as you have a dark and 'natural' foreground without critical straight structures. But that method isn't practical any more when you have fast moving objects like an aurora....
FWIW - for those looking to shoot astro at 14 mm f/1.4 there is another option. I use a 35/1.4 and stitch. In theory, a 2x2 grid shot at 35 mm has the same FOV as a 14 mm lens. In practice, you want overlap and the ability to crop uneven edges, so a 3x3 grid does the trick.
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The downsides are more acquisition and processing effort, and parallax issues with foreground subjects. Also, if used for auroras, they can move fast so stitching is not ideal (but it can be and has been done).
I agree 100%! I hate the video/ stills switch on the R8 and I mess it up every timeI will buy ten of these for starters, just to make sure they last for the rest of my photography life. I have zero intention to upgrade into anything that has the irritating photo/video switch on the left. For a nature hybrid shooter, trying to switch from photo to video while supporting a long lens with your hand is impossible. I greatly appreciate R5's possibility of having it right next to the shutter button. Anything else is a no-go and bad design. I also have R6ii and it breaks my balls every time I have to use it. Maybe Canon will come back to their senses one day.
People are different...It's almost the only single thing that annoys me on the new cameras.
That, and the new M-Fn menu, with two levels and different controls.
Not only I prefer the power switch on the left, I absolutely hate where they decided to move it to, it's just so out of reach, I have to bend my finger to get there![]()
It's almost the only single thing that annoys me on the new cameras.LOL. There’s always one. I much prefer the photo/video switch on the left. One of many really useful improvements of the R5II over the R5.
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the photos. We ended up observing almost fifty species of hummingbirds on that trip, so there were plenty of photos to choose from.
Our guide wrote up a comprehensive trip report, which you can access online at https://www.birdingecotours.com/trip-report/very-best-of-colombia-trip-report/