Now that nest (in botanical garden) is surrounded with yellow barriers. When I spotted it there were no birds around and I counted 3 whitish eggs inside (it's an eye level right above a path frequently used by visitors). Asked a gardener to fence it somehow (I have a membership and they know me) and in ~20-30 minutes it was done!!! I hope to see one day the youngsters flying around, would be a lot of fun in the next few weeks if everything is going well!

Nemorino said:

R5m2 + RF 200-800 + 1.4 TC
Little ringed plover
View attachment 229332View attachment 229333

Three Spoonbills
View attachment 229334

and a Lapwing and a worm GIF
View attachment 229335
The Lapwing didn't get it!

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I would recommend (if you remember the place!!!) to return to that place and check if the female (the bird in the background) is still there! If you decide to do it - be very careful were you step, the eggs are difficult to spot if you don't know what to look! The chicks are extremely cute! I don't remember how long time the eggs need to hatch but it should be on the Internet...

AlanF said:

Craig has fixed the cock up.

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Don't worry: somebody taught AI a lot of jargon... One day I hope it will learn! I mean it's still with low IQ as we all have been in our very early years !
Actually how old you were when you started to separate "cock" from "penis" accordingly to the context ?!

Exploreshootshare said:

A new remote? That tiny little detail in this rumor is what might actually interest me Does anybody use the Canon BR-E1 with the Canon R5? I´d love to hear about your experience. I´m getting tired of using "camera connect" as a remote and I am actively searching for BT option. It would be great if I can find one with a timer or a small display that shows the time in bulb mode. I am open for any suggestions

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I do and love it. Everyone always hates on that remote, but it works flawlessly for me, is light weight and never needs a new battery. I use it all the time for landscape photography and astrophotography. Avoids having to use a timer delay to prevent camera shake.

So is it 24-50 or 20-50? ....if it's 24-50, it's disappointing

neuroanatomist said:

Great Horned Owlet at the branching stage.

View attachment 229347
EOS R1, EF 600mm f/4L IS II + RF 1.4x Extender, 1/2000 s, f/5.6, ISO 2500

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Very nice shot.

Great Horned Owlet at the branching stage.


EOS R1, EF 600mm f/4L IS II + RF 1.4x Extender, 1/2000 s, f/5.6, ISO 2500

Dragon said:

Very foggy today, so dehaze was needed even at 15 ft. The hummers that bugged out in January were mostly Anna's but the batch that showed up a couple of weeks ago are all Allen's hummingbirds. There will be some Rufus later, but they never come this early in the year. It will be interesting to see if the Anna's come back. If they do, I will really have a full house. Also had a pair of new visitors that I have not seen here before. If my ID is correct, they are Chestnut Backed Chickadees. Cute little guys.


Long Neck

Short Neck

Wet Head

Chestnut Backed Chickadees

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Great series!

Very foggy today, so dehaze was needed even at 15 ft. The hummers that bugged out in January were mostly Anna's but the batch that showed up a couple of weeks ago are all Allen's hummingbirds and so far I have only seen females. There will be some Rufus later, but they never come this early in the year. It will be interesting to see if the Anna's come back. If they do, I will really have a full house. Also had a pair of new visitors that I have not seen here before. If my ID is correct, they are Chestnut Backed Chickadees. Cute little guys.


Long Neck




Short Neck




Wet Head




Chestnut Backed Chickadees

Is this a real photo of the Canon R6 V or is "what might look like" nano banana render somewhat accurate but not 100% ? )

Michael Clark said:

MTF 1.0 is theoretically perfect reproduction which is indistinguishable from the original.

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So it will go to 11 (or 1.1, as the case may be).

RIP Rob Reiner.

Once released, can we get a 3 table features compared Canon R6 MIII vs Canon C50 vs Canon R6 V. Since I do both photography primary and video secondary I am wondering which or both should I add to my current 2x R6 MIII kit. I do need 2 photo cameras for weddings especially but how would Canon C50 or Canon R6 V fit into my needs... I dont do long takes 1+ hours at the moment, so C50 is my wantto camera more than need. I recently got the DJI RS 5 so I may need 1 to stay on it permanently and forget about changing and rebalancing bodies on it. How would the new RF 20-50mm f/4 IS USM PZ compare to lets say the older 24-70 f4 or my current 15-35 + 24-70 zoom kits?

GMCPhotographics said:

We could be seeing a sensor that resolves over 1.0 at 50 l/mm.

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MTF 1.0 is theoretically perfect reproduction which is indistinguishable from the original.

AlanF said:

The AF of the RF 200-800mm is significantly better on the R5ii than on the R5.

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Is not the AF on the R5 Mark II significantly better than the R5 with a lot of different lenses? Especially with animal eye AF or humans wearing race helmets?

Tom R5R7 said:

Honestly, one of the things that might have made the R5 II (that's mk two, not eleven)

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You could have saved a bunch of keystrokes and just typed "R5 Mark II".

neuroanatomist said:

With respect, I strongly believe that Canon’s market research data is more quantitative, more accurate and more relevant than ‘all the talk and videos’ you’ve seen.

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Decisions on what Canon does with that data are based on maximizing profit.

They're not basing it on maximizing sales units, nor are they basing it on pleasing the most potential Canon users.

So the two things can both be true: Lots of folks want a true successor to the 7D Mark II AND canon thinks they can maximize profitability by not producing such a camera, perhaps because enough of those potential R7 Mark II buyers will break down and buy an R5 Mark II instead (or a less capable but higher profit margin at this point in its life cycle R7).

The 20-50mm looks much more compact than I expected. The only thing that could pull me of will be heavy chromatic aberrations and a high price. It should not cost much more then the 24-105 L if they are pushing it as a kit.

Sporgon said:

Are you sure about this ? It’s the first time I’ve heard it stated as a matter of fact.
I’ve only ever read rather woolly statements regarding how it must be to protect highlights, though when you think how much brighter the highlights can be over the rest of the image one third stop seems like naff all.
Have you a reliable source you can share regarding this ?

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Sporgon said:

Take a camera such as the R6 and expose a grey card (or something else like a brick wall that is 18% reflectance) illuminated with full sun (after two hours from sunrise and before two hours from sunset) and shoot the ‘sunny 16’ rule at 100 ISO and 1/100 sec f/16. The resulting converted file will be underexposed. Do it again but use 1/60 and it will be correct.
Try it for yourself.

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Are you shooting straight to JPEG? Raw and using the manufacturer's own algorithms to convert? Or using a third party app that has reverse engineered the way the camera maker encodes the EXIF info and maker notes section of the EXIF info? Open the same raw file in several different conversion apps and you'll get different results from each one.

And by the way, "Sunny 16" has always been off by about 1/3-1/2 stop, even back in the film days. But one batch of film to the next of the "same" emulsion and speed could also vary by 1/6 stop in either direction from the target sensitivity and still be in compliance with ASA/ISO standards. Then the older the film was before exposed, the less sensitive it became. All of these variables meant anything better than 1/3 stop precision was a pipe dream with film. Even if one bought an entire brick of film from the same production run and tested a sample, by the time they used the last roll weeks or months later, the sensitivity would have lowered, especially if the film was not refrigerated while stored during that time.

Then you've got to consider the weather. At sea level in humid air? At 10,000 feet in dry air? Even with not a cloud in the sky that's almost 1 stop difference at the same sun angle overhead.

justaCanonuser said:

I think we are not talking about the same issue, and I should have been more precise. I should have written that I always compared the 7D cameras with the D5X cameras, beginning with the 5D3 (I had the 5D3 and 4, and the 7D1 and 2). Only this makes sense, and of course the AF sensor of the FF DSLRs were bigger and could collect more photons (I am a physicist, I know what you mean). Comparing the AF systems of DSLRs (shooting with OVF) and ML cameras is like comparing apples with peas. Sorry, Michael, I should have been a bit more precise here. Have always good light

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The PDAF Array was the same size, but the microlenses covering the PDAF Array which focused light onto them were placed closer together to gather light the light coming through the narrower semi-silvered portion of the reflex mirror.

neuroanatomist said:

Landscapes are often stopped down, in which case there will be little if any IQ difference. Mostly it will come down to focal range (more is usually better), weight (the 16-28 is a lot lighter) and cost (the 16-28 is about half the cost.

If the 15-35/2.8 is in your budget, have you considered the 10-20/4?

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while I am looking at landscape.. I also do a fair bit of low light band shots and looking to do more inside.. so wanting the 2.8.. even that can be a challenge, hence the 20mm 1.4... but yep that weight

also I don't tend to use the Adobe ecosystem... my software (On1) tends to be less capable with lens profiles, which I should've mentioned in hindsight. The 10-20/4 is neat but if I recall still needs a fair bit of post correction and also again the brightness.. I prefer fast lenses so its not been on my radar.

Exploreshootshare said:

A new remote? That tiny little detail in this rumor is what might actually interest me Does anybody use the Canon BR-E1 with the Canon R5? I´d love to hear about your experience. I´m getting tired of using "camera connect" as a remote and I am actively searching for BT option. It would be great if I can find one with a timer or a small display that shows the time in bulb mode. I am open for any suggestions

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yes I have used it for years. Works great, get's the work done. But one caveat -- The R5 only allows for one bluetooth connection so it's either the remote or the camera app on the phone. I like to have my images geotagged and when you are connected to the remote, the camera app cannot geotag the images. I have solved this with the now discontinued canon gp-e2 in the hot shoe...

I own the 15-35 f/2,8.
This lens is superb. Sharp into the farthest corners from 15mm to 35mm. And also extremely well-built, perfectly weather sealed (I used it several times in heavy rain).
I once tested the 16-28, it didn't convince me in comparison, neither optically, nor mechanically. If f/4 is ok with you, the 14-35 is an nice alternative, though I found the 15-35 better at 35mm, inn the corners, but not by a wide margin.
My personal opinion...

Landscapes are often stopped down, in which case there will be little if any IQ difference. Mostly it will come down to focal range (more is usually better), weight (the 16-28 is a lot lighter) and cost (the 16-28 is about half the cost.

If the 15-35/2.8 is in your budget, have you considered the 10-20/4?

tattwah said:

Speaking about Ordinary Filmaker, unfortunately i cannnot bring myself to like that channel due to the constant clickbait title and putting his face front and center on all the thumbnails of his videos and aso making multiple videos on a single rumors.

Not hating about him as a person tho, just not a fan of his channel.

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I tend to agree, Simon's channel is painful to watch. In addition to the click bait titles, his primary skill is taking a minutes worth of news and spreading it out over 10 minutes.