Posts

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 10, 2021

Rupp1 said:
OK, I just wanted to follow up. I went back to Google, which ultimately proved to be a time sink. I have also spent a great deal of time on YouTube. Spending 25 minutes to get one set of settings, is not especially efficient.

As AlanF presumed, I was hoping for more. To be fair, my pursuing this subject has led me to try back button focusing after years of being frustrated with the shutter button and trying sub-optimal solutions. But is it really too much to ask for suggested settings for wildlife, landscape, action, and studio with brief reasons for each?

Those settings and reasons tend to vary a lot by photographer. In the past, Canon has published white papers with tricks and tips. I'm not sure why we haven't seen them yet.

The Digital picture has a very detailed review included suggested setups. There are also some user suggestions for various situations on Fred Miranda. Its lots of work to track those down.

SteveC · Mar 10, 2021

AlanF said:
As pointed out by others, the insurers have overheads of staff and office costs, and have to make a nice profit. They also know the statistics of the frequency of breakdowns plus a safety allowance for themselves. So, if you are a careful person you are paying far over the odds for repairs by paying them to pay for it for you. I was given the advice when I was young that you should insure only against events that are rare but are very expensive when they do happen, like for your house burning down or emergency health insurance when you travel or third party liability etc. If you can afford to cover the cost yourself, then you save money by insuring yourself with your own funds.
if you never have the savings to cover losses, then paying insurance may be important but it would be cheaper over the longer run to put the money you would pay for insurance into a regular savings account.

I tend to agree with this philosophy. The only time I ever bought an extended warranty was for an ink jet printer (where I know the damn jets would plug up). Of course that time they waited a bit longer to do so.

HarrisonB · Mar 9, 2021

st jack photography said:
What I am wondering is this: does PC speed and write method have anything to do with this? I feel it does. I shoot with a powered tethered line (TetherTools with powered adapter) and it goes straight to my massive desktop PC with dual SSD, dual video cards, 32GB RAM, i7-7000+ overclocked, and if I compare that to my laptop, an 8Gb RAM with magnetic storage, the speeds are much different. I could be wrong, but I feel PC specs are an influence since my super-PC does the transfers almost instantaneously, less than a second per image.
There is also a difference between a simple file transfer and then a transfer and render, I believe. If I transfer to my SSD for storage, that goes much faster than if I transfer and queue up a batch via C1 or Helicon (Helicon is what I often shoot tethered with, since I do mostly commercial/product work, but if I do portraits I often use C1.) It could be that the speed is for a simple transfer, not the speed for loading with a program, since the program will use the PC RAM and processor to render.
It could be that there is something I am missing, so I admit I could be wrong. My untested guess would be the bottleneck is RAM and processor speed of the PC to render and sort, as opposed to a straight transfer. This theory should be testable, I believe.

Thank you for this rundown, that all makes sense to me and I'm certain that PC specs play a major role.

I've spent all morning combing through forums and was able to determine that my C1 was basically not using my GPU at all and relying on my CPU for everything. I was able to follow a couple of guides to activate my GPU (namely this post about troubleshooting potential issues with Open CL) and that seems to have done the trick. When I shoot a burst of photos there's an initial pause but then the images take less than a second each to load in. I don't even see the rendering happen, it's done so quickly.

I was able to test on an iMac as well where it just worked perfectly well without me having to do anything which at least let me know that it wasn't the camera which was my key worry.

Thank you again for your time responding!

Nurin85 · Mar 8, 2021

There is a Canon online promoter at www.fotokoch.de. Somehow it is just visible in the EOS R section, but they are able to show some cameras live, not just browsing the online shop with customers.

macrunning · Mar 7, 2021

I'm just curious as to what the general consensus is with purchasing Canon's Service plans for lenses. If you have purchased the service plan, how was the actual service and process? Was it easy or did you have to jump through hoops? If you purchased it did you find value in it? If you didn't purchase the service plan, why not? Trying to establish a pros/cons list for these expensive investments!

Fischer · Mar 7, 2021

Sporgon said:
The AliExpress link with the new rubber kit for the 5DII doesn't include anything for the card door. In the shutter replacement video you can see that the card door is just bare plastic. I looked because you got me wondering if maybe late versions of the 5DII did have the nicely finished door !! Are you sure you don't mean the 5DIII ? That and the IV do have the rubber finish and I'm betting that the R5II or III will have it too

I'm sure I thought about the rubber grip part...

So yes, we do in fact agree.

Joules · Mar 5, 2021

cayenne said:
Ok thank you for the info!!!

I have both adapters on the way.

I've not played with the R cameras yet.
Like I mentioned, I have a GFX100 and a Leica M10M...both of those have focus assist, where when you look through the viewfinder, places in focus will light up....are you saying that the R5 and other R cameras don't have that and require an adapter chip to do focus assist?

Again, thank you for all the great feedback!!

What a great forum!!

cayenne

The Canon DSLR will not light up the AF points unless a lens with electronic contacts is attached. I think that applies to all of them, certainly to my 600D and 80D. I just tried it with my two m42 adapters to confirm.

With the R bodies, I unfortunately haven't used one with any MF lenses yet, though eventually that is the plan for my assemble of manual lenses relatives have gifted me over the years.

I know for sure that without a chipped lens, you can still simply magnify the AF spot to visually confirm it's sharp, or use focus peaking which are colored dots highlighting the plane of focus. Then there is a third option, called focus guides, that is only available for chipped lenses and also allows eye detection. Canon has a good video demonstration:

As for the usual blinking of an AF point, I don't know if that is available on the R bodies. Couldn't find info on the internet quickly, hopefully an owner can chime in.

BenB · Mar 4, 2021

Sorosuub said:
R5. I don't think the R has eye AF?

Yes the R as eye AF, not as good as the R5 by the looks of things.

Frodo · Mar 4, 2021

I agree with Nemorino. Check the control ring is not set to exposure compensation. The change is about 3.5 stops and is consistent in direction. Unlikely to be spot metering or similar.

stevelee · Mar 3, 2021

Bdbtoys said:
Gotcha... Note however, my original 'kit lens' reply was not to undermine the lens... but to explain why I called it a kit lens.

I was super happy w/ a EF-S 24-135 STM kit lens for the longest time when I was using a 70D.

It sounds like I didn’t make it clear enough that I was agreeing with you, and adding that you don’t even have to go all the way with the L lens. There have been enough crummy kit lenses to give them a bad name. But recent EF 24-105mm kits lenses have been fine.

AlanF · Mar 3, 2021

My local dealer knocked at my front door yesterday with a big smile and gave me an RF 800mm to play with for a week - Canon had left him a demo! Here is my quick first impression.
The lens is a joy to hold compared with my 400mm DO II + 2xTC in terms of weight. It's AF isn't as as fast though.
At 20m from a target, it's of similar sharpness to the 400mm DO II at 800mm and better than the RF 100-500mm at 700mm with a 1.4xTC, about what you would expect for the extra 100mm length.
At its minimum focal distance of 6m, it is only marginally outresolving the zoom at 700mm and much worse than the 400mm DO II, both of which will allow you to go closer.
It works quite well with the 1.4xTC but AF slows down.
Birds in flight aren't easy to follow because of the narrow field of view at 800mm and it will focus only in the central zone. Also, high shutter speeds are needed for BIF and f/11 doesn't help.
My views haven't really changed. It's a very nice lens and excellent value for money. I could see myself using it if I was going out for a hike and it was a bright day and I knew all the birds would be far away. Or, if I was going to a hide or stopping at places in my car and there wasn't much walking I could take it along with my 100-500mm II + 1.4xTC.

melgross · Mar 3, 2021

Dragon said:
Not really. 10 shows the contrast of the lens and is thus useful. The biggest issue at 60 lp/mm and above is that the slightest bit of field curvature will kill the MTF chart. Roger recently did a couple of articles for DPR on the subject. https://www.dpreview.com/articles/1351719699/roger-cicala-field-curvature-for-fun-and-profit and https://www.dpreview.com/opinion/7031211310/roger-cicala-field-curvature-pt-2 . Many lenses are much sharper at the edges than the standard planar MTF chart would indicate. The edge focus is just not in the same plane with the center focus. https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/11/testing-lenses-best-individual-focus-mtf-curves/ . Enjoy.

The contrast of the lens at almost unusable low resolution. Why not go to 5? The contrast could be almost 100% across the board?

StoicalEtcher · Mar 3, 2021

Yes - and they can only take part in, and be recognised for, awards that exist...

JohnC · Mar 3, 2021

Joules said:
You received an A1 or a R5?

Both should beat the 5D IV quite easily, but as both have been discussed in the posts before yours the context of your message is unclear.

Yes my bad, the R5 as referenced in the title. Noise at higher ISO is pretty distinguishable based on very limited observation. I haven’t quantified it but I think that difference would show up at ISO 1000 or so.

Base ISO could prove to be closer, the 5d4 is really good there both in the amount and character of the noise. Hopefully I’ll get the opportunity to test that in the near future (real world).

Frodo · Mar 3, 2021

Right, I have a fix that works okay (thanks to: https://fstoppers.com/post-production/learn-how-fix-color-banding-using-just-one-simple-tool-7946)
- Select the area with banding using the magic wand - this worked quite well for this image.
- Create a new layer with the selected area - ctrl J. I removed with the eraser, some parts of the image inadvertently selected by the magic wand
- Go to Image - Mode - 8 bit
- Go to Filter - Filter gallery - Spatter (You won't be able to access the filter gallery if the image is not in 8-bit - so do most of your editing before removing banding)
- Use very low smoothness and play around with the spray radius (should be quite high) until banding is just removed.
- I tidied up a few edges of the selected area with a small soft brush.

I tried a couple of different blurs, but found that spatter worked best.

A crop from the image is below.

koenkooi · Mar 3, 2021

ednet said:
Question: IBIS and lens IS are great to have but does the R5 automatically make any adjustments because of this? For instance, in Av Mode, if I am not tracking a moving object, the R5 will adjust the shutter speed and Iso (auto Iso). With IBIS and lens IS, can the R5 adjust to a slower shutter speed and/or lower Iso than would have been made if IBIS and lens IS were not present?

No, but in the Auto-ISO settings you can set it to -1 or -2 to have it adjust a stop or two. I have it set to +1 to keep the shutter up for my kids that won't sit still

PowerMike G5 · Mar 2, 2021

robotfist said:
Still waiting for an RF mount full frame cinema camera. I hope the C90 is that camera. I don't care about 8K at all. I care more about dynamic range and light sensitivity.

It would also be nice if Canon would develop an S-Cinetone type of color profile to fill in the gap when you don't want to record in log. I must say, Sony's S-Cinetone is a fantastic profile and it really has a lot of uses. It requires virtually no grading at all and makes quick turn around jobs so much easier. It’s also easy to match different cameras now. Sony has come a long way with their color science. I feel like Canon has always had good color science, but they really need to update their picture profiles like Sony did, and bring them into the modern age.

That's what they have WDR profile for. For when you want a look straight from camera that doesn't involve using any of the Clog modes, yet better maximizes the DR and highlight rolloff than the normal gamma.

Sporgon · Mar 2, 2021

privatebydesign said:
Can’t beat fog for an atmospheric look.

Yes, it seems like here in the UK at least, for a landscape picture to get any kind of recognition at all it has to involve misty trees.

Mark Webb Photography · Mar 1, 2021

Has anyone discovered if it's possible to activate the modeling lamp on your remote EL-1's? It seems you can activate modeling flash (burst of flashes over 1 second) but not the actual LED lamp which I find quite odd. I've tested every possible setting and I believe that you can only activate the lamp for focus assist with the unit that is attached to your camera. That's a bit of a let down to have to manually press the button any time you need to activate the modeling lamp, especially if it's in a position that's out of reach. Otherwise these guys are pretty fantastic. I'll attach a bare-bulb sample below. Also, keep in mind they won't fit in the older Godox S1 bracket. Found that out a little too late and had to use my 600. They will fit in the S2 bracket but it is tight.

TAF · Mar 1, 2021

Elsewhere on this site I've posted my suggestion for making an EOS-M mount stereo camera combining two M's.

I'd be delighted to get back in stereo photography.

melgross · Mar 1, 2021

usern4cr said:
The fact that some of the 3 Foveon layers pick up light meant for the other layers doesn't have to be considered being "poisoned". If the layer sensors have low noise, then they should be able to have a software 3x3 matrix filter to get the proper R G B values out of them. To show an example of this, the human eye has a green cone and a greenish-yellow cone (instead of a green and red cone). These 2 cones have a QE curve that overlaps each other as much as it differs from each other, but the eye/brain has circuitry that separates the values into what we consider green & red. If there is low noise then circuitry can do the same to eliminate this issue. Now, I'm guessing that the Foveon pixel elements have a lower QE curve and higher noise levels than desired so that would be the reason (I assume) for their lack of success.

That’s exactly what poisoned means. It has nothing to do with noise, which is different.

please don’t compare a camera system with human sensoriums. They are very different.

southwestfilm · Mar 1, 2021

Go for the Canon C100 mk2 and make use of your lense. Your STM lenses will also activate auto facial focus on the MK2

TedNYC · Mar 1, 2021

Undoubtably, the most comprehensive user guide is:

YouTube: Michael The Maven: Canon R6 userguide

Tomas Luka · Mar 1, 2021

Je mi to velmi líto

Jsem profesionální svatební fotograf a chci na svatbě vytisknout několik fotografií. EOS R a EOS RP nebyl problém. Koupili jsme nový drahý model a nemohu najít? Proč?

Admin US West · Mar 1, 2021

The arguing and bickering in this thread is unacceptable. I am removing several posts and locking the thread. Discipline will result.

Posts

Posts

Attachments

Filter

Forum statistics

Gallery statistics