Antono Refa said:

I'm not sure I follow your meaning.

If the lens is still manufactured (or plans are to keep manufacturing more batches), why would Canon discontinue it in specific markets?

Seems more plausible to me the lens is no longer manufactured, and Canon announces it is discontinued when local stock runs out.

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It wouldn't be the first time that something was sold in some markets but not others. For example, some years ago Canon wasn't selling the M system cameras in the US but was selling them elsewhere, particularly Asia, presumably because at the time those cameras just weren't selling well in the US. That said, you may end up being correct about the 40mm f/2.8. It's still on the Canon Australia website, but I think it's still on the Canon USA website too. Time will tell.

Sony has joined Canon and Nikon in the 50mm f/1.2 club, by following its recent 35mm f/1.4 GM (and Sigma's 35mm f/1.2 DN Art) with a 50mm f/1.2 GM. Looks like an excellent lens for Sony users.

Don't you already have FD to EF adapter? Do camera engaging ends look same/similar enough? If yes, you got the adapter as a door stop, as lens fits directly. If no, you need a new door
Good luck with your new beast!

ah a long time ago. thanks

vladk said:

bmpcc 6k and URSA are S35, bmpcc 4k is 4/3. Micro is s16.

Here is comparison of all popular sensor formats: https://www.sharegrid.com/blog/posts/a-filmmakers-guide-to-sensor-sizes-and-lens-formats

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The post you responded to was referring to the BMPCC which is super 16.

DannyPwins said:

Yes. C300 MKii is Netflix approved, so I’m sure it’s approved for other services.

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Prime Video used to host just about any independent video but it is a lot harder now.
The difficult part was getting a theatrical run.
I think the easiest one now is YouTube movies.

As March 15th still no firmware update. So sad:-(

Bennymiata said:

I have a Fuji W3 3d camera.
It has 2 lenses and 2 sensors and a special lcd monitor that shows the pictures in 3d. It's quite amazing.
If you have a 3d TV, you can also see the 3d images on that.
Unfortunately, it wasn't a commercial success.

Perhaps you should try and find one on ebay etc., and play with it.
Great fun!

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I have a Poppy, which is a box full of mirrors. I place an iPhone inside. The result is a stereo pair in one file. I can view the result in the Poppy or upload to my computer (and Flickr). If I get the image small enough on the computer screen, I can lock it in without a viewer. Sorry, no Canon content.

privatebydesign said:

If it was one lens, 24-70 f2.8. If two lenses 35 f1.4 and 85 f1.4.

With the R system I’d happily use the more modest 35 f2 and 85 f2, or the 24-70 2.8 zoom until you get a real handle on your style.

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I agree with the 35mm and 85mm prime.

SecureGSM said:

I cannot see myself start swapping lenses at an event just not practical. You risk loosing moments. Unless, in between sessions. It would be 28-70 F2.0 plus other body with 70-200 F2.8 IS for me.
I trust that mirrorless kit will be much lighter anyway.
I would keep Sigma 35/1.4 and 85/1.4 and 100 macro in my bag as well. 50mm is not my thing.

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If a moment is happening with you're zoomlens 28-70 zoomlens, is it on 28mm or on 70mm when the moment is happening? So you first need to correct this and change it on 35mm for good impact. So you have to take a extra step before you can take the shot with the risk of losing te moment. With a fixed 35mm you need to be close, you're pictures will have more impact and you learn to quickly stand at the correct distance because you know this lens so much. So i think with fixed 35mm you can have more and better moments and can help you to become a better photographer.

StoicalEtcher said:

Very interesting stuff Chris - thanks for posting!
Was the DedoLight DP1.1 something you had lying around, or purchased for this purpose?
Look forward to seeing the end results when put to use.
Cheers
Stoical

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Happy to share! I have actually had the Dedolight DP1.1 for a few years and used it with my constant lights. Very impressive optics, but I never thought it would be possible to adapt it to a flash. I thought that it would need the Dedolight focusing style light for it to work.

Luckily I found a used Broncolor snoot on eBay for a very good price so decided to give it a go... pleasantly surprised at the results.

Having it setup this way does eat up a lot of light though. As an example of exposure settings, roughly 75 watt/seconds of power was needed for a bright exposure at ISO 100, F2.0, 1/200. This was with the light about 2-3 metres away from the target. It’s a good thing that the Broncolor packs are quite powerful!

TravelerNick said:

I thought you had to knock out a mugger while still not missing a shot.

You can manually focus a corpse. Outside of the Walking Dead they tend to hold still better than the average model

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The lens needs to still be in alignment, both with itself (element to element) and with the image plane, though.

Great video

Alowan said:

Hi everyone,

I recently got the RF 70-200mm f 2.8 and seems to be a "beast" of a lens in a suprisingly small package.

However I have noticed that when the camera is turned off or the lens is disconnected you can see a part wiggle quite a bit around inside the lens. I suspect this is the IS or something - and I have not noticed any problems with the lens. As the shop I bought it from currently is out of stock I cannot see if their lenses have it - so I am curious if anyone know what is is and if it is normal. (see gif)

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Yes. The IS doesn't 'park' when camera is off or unmounted.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

You may know, but you are telling many of our members otherwise. They may have never heard of it before. THINK!!

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It says as much on the front page of their website. I also said so in the first sentence of my post. READ!!

I hired this week the Sigma 150-600mm Sport and a Canon RF 100-500mm. I took around a dozen random garden shots with the Sigma and put it away. It was very heavy compared to the RF and quite soft. I have nothing other than the price to complain about regarding the RF 100-500mm its superb.

Beautiful. That’s not helping my urge to be camping in the Alberta/BC mountains.
I too subscribed.

Viggo said:

Excellent, thanks for sharing . Would love to see a few shots, but maybe that’s not allowed?

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Hey Viggo,

I checked, and it sounds like by NHL rules I can't post them on any web site but the newspapers, ironically tho, I can post them to Insta.
I did post a 3 there.
Before dumping the files from my hard drive to the backup server, I went through and pulled another 30 or so picture, mostly isolation and beauty pix for the archive. That R5 is so much better than my 1Dx mk 2!
I still wish I had kept the 5d mk 4 for soft skin tones, but that ship has sailed.

Sorry for coming a bit late with an answer to your question, but still, here it is.

Two years ago, I bought the RP with its kit lens, the 24-105 f/4 IS USM. At first, I expected to be limited by its relatively small aperture, but the RP is good enough to manage this lens, even inside.

I noticed that I never leave without taking this lens in my bag, and I even end up, sometimes, not using other lenses I brought, specially in hostile environments (windy, very crowdy, rainy, blizzards, etc…) where the risks are greater than the benefits of using a better lens. The 24-105 is very versatile, good enough even fully open or at its extremes and it feels like a strong and sturdy enough lens for what I do.

If you're lucky, you might even find it refurbished or used, if you're looking for a bargain.

You might find this thread useful:

Starting from scratch, it would be better to buy a new 100-500mm rather than a new 100-400mm II, but a used 100-400mm II at a good price would be attractive. I would not advise the 100-400mm first version or the 400mm f/5.6 at this stage - they are too long in the tooth - unless you can't afford more. The RF 800mm is a specialist lens of limited use. I have used all of these lenses.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

It is a good thing for sports cameras. I suspect that it might be like 8K video where everyone says they need it but few actually use it.

I wonder about the cost though, the process of creating a stacked sensor is expensive so its not something to get unless you really need it, or have a tone of money to get the latest thing to sit next to all your Leicas.

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It'll be priced with the A1, 1DxIII, and D6. It is a specialist sports and wildlife camera, not a D850/R5 competitor. The stacked sensor in the A1 does give you a blackout free EVF and no rolling shutter issues when shooting and panning. Basically this is a step to the global shutter or it could even have a global shutter. The R1 will likely have a stacked sensor as well or a similar technology to increase sensor readout when in electronic mode.

solved

Another thought is that the OP is one of those who have superb ability to distinguish color differences. Some have that ability and see the difference in things that look the same to my old eyes. As I said, on my EOS R, I noticed the viewfinder had different colors, the LCD was best. External lighting can have a big effect for sure.

I was reading the manual for the 90D, and I learned that you can press the Q or Info button in the Menu to switch to the next main tab, you learn something new everyday haha.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I've not seen the issue, but we are all a bit different in the way we use things. I have almost no feeling in my fingers, so I have very deliberate movement of the joystick.

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Aussie shooter said:

Since I got the R6 i have not had to use the joystick to move points. It is either tracking with the initial point in the centre or I use the touch screen to move the points. Having said that however I have played around with it while not in shooting conditions and I dont seem to have any issues.

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Thanks to both of you for the feedback. I originally thought something may have been wrong with my battery grip as that was when I first noticed the sensitivity.

I don’t really have any issues when I am making big AF point movements, say from one side of the screen to the other. It seems to mostly register a press when I am trying to make a minor adjustment... eg. just a few AF points across. This requires a short duration nudge of the joystick and it’s that, that seems to cause the centering.

I might try taking the joystick sensitivity to minimum and see if that allows for a longer directional ‘nudge’ for the minor adjustment to be made.

I have now heard quite a few people say that they prefer touch and drag for manual AF movement... at the end of the day, that may just suit the minor adjustments I like to make better....