Nikon is killing off its international warranty in favor of regional warranties

Not necessarily, it depends on where you buy your Canon gear.
Lenses or EOS bodies purchased from a Authorized Canon USA dealer will be serviced at any Canon authorized repair facility worldwide if you have a receipt with serial number, so that can be considered international.
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Capturing great images in very dark sceneries using a EOS R5 and a bright F/1.2 lens. Worth to buy a dedicated lens?

As someone who owns all of the RF lenses (except the 35mm F1.8), I'd say the F1.2 lenses are well worth the investment, especially for night time photography. For taking portraits, F1.2 may not be usable at all times, but it's good to have it when conditions require. With that said, I just wish Canon's going to release a 24mm/35mm F1.2 soon.
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Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L II USM

Class A - you buy a 1.4 lens, you should expect reliable results AT 1.4. The sigma just doesn't offer that reliability to the same frequency as does the Canon.
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yes ...completely agree
I had 35L mk 1, and then sigma ..loved em both...each an improvement over the previous..

now my 35L mk 2 is as good as any of the best Canon lenses... imo

...
the bokeh is lovely...as demonstrated above....
nice shots....

the lens is so good and 35mm being my fav angle...
I dont want to take it off the camera..

I wish I had a 5DmkIII that had the spotmeter linked to focus, exp comp in manual , and LIGHTED focus points in servo....and a few more features..
if so...... then I would have a smaller footprint.... if I had that.. I would superglue the 35L II to the body
and call it a perfect system...


the 1dx2 is wonderful... but bulges in my jeans pocket ...a little bit....ha
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AND to stir-up old wounds again..
the 135 f2 mk II I.S. with ~1.5 feet min focus distance....
would be quite nice to pair with the 35L II

for now I'll add my 14L II.... making ..... 14mm, 35mm and 135mm a near-complete system
but
I would be willing to give up f2.8 ... for f4
maybe use an 11-24 Canon or 12 24 Sigma ...to replace the 14mm ..

my point is...
they NOW all have to rise to the 35L II standards....I am spoiled!!
You just said it: if you own one excellent lens, it's hard to accept lesser results.
This makes Canon very happy (my own expensive experience...)
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Patent: Canon RF 80mm f/2.8 Macro

But the 100 L macro doesn’t resolve any better than the ancient pre L 100 macro and at F5.6 even the 50 F1.4 out resolves it. Both of which seem to suggest the coatings are not as effective as you think they are.

I’m not saying the 100 L macro isn’t a good lens, it is nice enough, but just not a particularly special one.
I haven't found a thing wrong with the non-L macro. Once I got the 6D2, I did decide that I didn't like the look it gave to portraits, so I got a refurb 85mm f/1.8 when that went on sale. But other than that, the 100mm has been great. I think stabilization is the main advantage of the L.
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NiSi to announced the RF 15mm f/4 on January 8, 2021

WOW! That size is amazing! With an native RF mount, its a super compact package that we get here on an R5/6 camera! Thats nice for travel (aaah, damn corona).
I think F4 on ultra wide lenses is totaly fine, and the sice is great. For landscape and architecture but especialy travel this looks promising. Though I wonder how well the image quality can be.
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Review: Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM by TDP

Sure any small 50mm lens in the hands of a good photographer can makes images like the HCB posted.
But that's not the point. A shitty fifty presents IQ compromises if you wish to make sharp formal portraits at f/1.8 - 2, especially with the subject off centre. So it can limit the sort of photography you can do. For some people the limitation is not a big deal. For others it is.
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SIRUI launch 24mm F2.8 1.33x Anamorphic lens for crop sensor mounts including EF-M

I think it has to do with the fact that Canon's M-mount cameras are hugely popular sellers in spite of Canon's lack of any enthusiasm for lens development and even in light of the fact the new rumor is that Canon will announce at some point in 2021 the winding down of the M-lineup. There will still be thousands of bodies in inventory left to sell and the support will not end for some years. And this new offering from Sirui I think will be a good performer and seller for the M-line. (In spite of it's expected announced "demise".)
Cam Mackey has a converted EF version that he has used on R5, C70, and Red Komodo.
If independent third parties can convert it then I can't see why Sirui would not be able to.
After PL EF is probably the most popular mount for cinema lenses.
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L plate for EOS R5 or R6 to use with Peak Design Clip - 3legged thing the only option?

[..] Also, the entire thing is held on by 1 screw... so it really doesn't matter much if its a 2x2 square or an entire bracket.
[..]

Even worse: a single screw with a single thread engaged. The tripod sockets are so shallow and sloppy that it's really hard to get good thread engagement.

I try not to think about that, otherwise the camera wouldn't leave the house :)
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Anyone here think that Canon should have made a 200-600/6.3 rather than a 100-500/7.1?

I own the 100-500 mm lens and for lightweight wildlife photography it is glued on my R5. My favorite thing about this lens is that I can digitally crop the photo at a touch of a button and have a 17 MP picture with a 800 mm FOV. I previously owned the Sony 200-600 mm lens, but as other mentioned found it too heavy. Maybe Canon will release a 600 mm f5.6 with diffractive optics for low weight in the future.
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Battery compatible with Canon EOS R6

This just came out this morning:


The upshot: the new LP-E6NH batteries don't give you much more capacity after initial wear (about 8 recharges). Benefit is all about communication with camera firmware in the new R5/R6.

There will be some third party batteries (older ones from 5+ years ago) added for comparison over next few weeks. -tig
Thanks for that, most useful.
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Patent: Canon RF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro

An intelligent lens-design isn't about "the more lenses, the better".
One of the very best macro lenses, the Leica M Macro Elmar 90mm f4, has only 4(!) lenses, and doesn't miss a single one.
I often use it with macro rings on my EOS R, and it beats,without discussion,the EF 100 L IS.
Of course, it's an f4 lens, without AF.
And what should I say about the Apo Macro Elmarit 2,8/100mm, 8 lenses, so sharp at any setting and aperture that it almost hurts?
You mean, the more elements. And you’re wrong. They couldn’t do it in years past for a number of reasons. Calculation, even with lens design programs, was a real bear. Each extra element adds significantly to the problem. Then there was the mechanical integrity of the lens. Back when, Cooke was known for superb designs that never performed that well, because they couldn’t make them properly. The technology wasn’t up to it. Glasses are being developed every day, new coatings, etc. All of this allows designers to take more advantage of additional elements than they could use decades ago.

‘So yes, designers do look at more elements as being beneficial. It’s pretty obvious, because new lenses are all about more elements when performance, and speed, are the main thrust.

you mention a 90 f4, which I’ve used. It’s pretty good, but bested by a number of faster lenses these days. Now, try to make that Ken’s a more realistic f 2.8, as most macro’s are. Or an f 2, as we see more of them come out. How many elements do you think it would need?

and back in the days of film, what was considered as sharp would be though of today as being just ok.
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Strange fringe on subject in front of Christmas lights (not lens or body specific)

I believe there is nothing wrong with your setup, if that is what you are asking.

As objects get close enough to the lens and obstruct a bokeh ball, their shape becomes part of the bokeh ball. It is what allows you to use a cardboard cutout to shape your bokeh balls like stars or hearts for example. I think the combination of small lights (good point source approximations) and the single color of LEDs makes this more noticeable. I have a shot with a similar effect done with my 600D and Sigma 35 mm 1.4 Art.

Your doll seems to 'cast a shadow' onto your bokeh balls, giving it this weird effect.
The spider seems to have the same effect. Thanks. I think this shows the effect is not strange after all, but common in this situation.

My lens was close to MFD, but not quite. The tree was about seven or eight feet behind the subject. (We were going to take the tree down yesterday morning, but when I saw the images from the night before I wanted to hold off and try again with different lenses and bodies last night.)

I was definitely relieved to see the same results on different bodies and lenses!

I wonder if other light sources behave differently. Incandescent? Hmmm. It is not pretty!

KIt., I don't see the grey contour you are asking about. I just had the doll propped up on a stool, more or less centered in front of the tree. Maybe an ornament or something...

PS The kid already beats me at chess. I'm sure she'll be a better photographer real quick too!
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Switching between Electronic shutter and mechanical

That has also been a complaint of mine. The 900 page "advanced" manual is mostly screenshots of the various menus. While most of the things are self-explanatory, more help, and background information on topics like shutter selections, autofocus, and flash would be helpful.

end up using Youtube a lot because of this ;-) and forums like this..
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Tamron 100-400 on R bodies?

back and arm becoming more issues as I age :( ... the focus engine is a huge improvement.. not perfect as some credit, but huge improvement. However there are so many options with autofocus it gets its own menu now... learning to maximize it really takes some getting used to and knowing/remembering when to change it takes a bit of getting used to... like changing between people and animals .. now programmed in custom, but also the continuous autofocus can be outright annoying at times yet horribly useful... it keeps trying to focus on something when you point down or away from your subject or just have the camera on and walking so you're ready.. but damn useful when you are ready. another is learning to set a start area for the focus and then compose and have it track vs it trying to figure out what you're trying to focus on.. how well it flips/locks on etc.. still scratching my head on many options

Yeah getting older isn't fun... lol. You'll get used to it over time and the custom buttons make it so much easier. For me it took a bit of getting used to mainly due to the location of Sony buttons being in my muscle memory but I'm already more used to the R6 now. The tracking is definitely amazing though and I really love how it just sticks to the subject. I feel like that plus the 20fps would make shooting wild life even more fun.
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R6 Intervalometer Questions

Thanks for the detailed reply!!!

Battery life is a huge issue, and definitely a concern. The housing will definitely not allow for any extra battery grip, or any way to change batteries underwater. Fortunately, a "long" shoot is 45 minutes. It looks like the R5 and R6 use the same basic form factor of battery, so probably similar time. Is there any way I could ask you to run a time check on it? See how long it'll do 1 second intervals before the battery dies?

Can you get enough review time on a 1s interval to even be useful?

I'm probably not patient enough to do a full test for you but some additional considerations..

power draw and how long it lasts likely depends on what it's doing for you at the time.. live view or electronic view finder, constant autofocus, reviews, jpg vs raw etc etc. I've only done small dives but I imagine it's useless to start it when you first get in and only really valuable once you can see the ground which would mean only short time periods, but I'm not entirely sure of your case scenario.

if you're looking at figure out if the lights are in the right place etc, keep in mind it uses live view.. you're seeing it live all the time and its pretty accurate for me (though there is more than one mode I think), maybe it renders the review question moot.

intervaluemeter I Think turns off once its done and you manually have to turn it on again via the menus.. not sure if there is a way to automate this.

it works by how long between each shot (1second to hours between). .. and how many shots (1-98 and then 99= infinity until you turn the camera off I believe)

you should consider renting an R6 or R5... given how specific your cases are, it's likely worth your while.. larger cities often have shops that rent equipment.

also can't see anywhere to program a button to enable / disable intervaluemeter.. seems to be menu only?
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MY dog

I miss our two big Poodles, Max and Spud. This was taken with my 3.3 MP Nikon 990 in 2001. How time flies but the memory lingers. They have long since passed away. I had a laser engraved rubber stamp made of this photo so it was upsized to match their requirements.


View attachment 194941
How time flies eh Mt Spokane !
Here is a shot of my mother's Standard Poodle (as we call the large, full size ones in England) called Toby. I took this in March 1978 on Kodachrome 64 with a Kiev 4 rangefinder camera that my father had bought for me as a Xmas present. I'd have been 17 years old at the time and you can see my shadow in the picture on the left crouching down behind the camera and tripod. I even wrote the exposure settings on the slide mount; 1/125th and f/5.6 . I can remember Toby being so obliging in posing for the picture !

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