Canon is not likely to add more features. They place cameras in brackets which have features according to price. Buying one from a lower price bracket and hoping they will upgrade it to high end features generally results in disappointment.

So, if you purchase a item, be it a camera or a car, don't expect upgrades to come out adding high end features from a more expensive model, even if its just software. Make sure what you select has features you need.

I wish the M series had remote tethering that would work with my pc via USB. I've never bought one because they do not and apparently will not have it.

Update re M5 and Godox x1tc triggers Ive updated with V19 on the software released yesterday still not working , As a big fan of godox slightly disappointing that they have ignored 3 e-mails asking them to verify if they have this update in development , In the mean time I'm using the youngnuo 622c triggers to fire my speed lights which all work fine .

BasXcanon:

After 15 years of digital photography for consumers it is still only like 30% of the world population that can install a canon printer to their computer and learn how to get the SD data to the printer.

Click to expand...

Because 70% of the camera owning population don't care about printing - they share their images on social network sites or 500pX, Flickr and the like. Nothing wrong with that - and you try showing a lot of low light smartphone photos on large screen, or cropped.
Besides, if you want it printed there are a growing number of photobooths around where you can slide in your SD card and print it off yourself.

Professionals - the subtext to your comment is that professionals are as mis-informed as anyone else. They are bigoted and blind about gear as anyone else - and as an example you only need to see the insults fly around when a professional says 'I now shoot all my wedding with micro 4/3'. I have been convinced for a long time that all this blather of 'you owe it to the client t ive them the best possible quality so you have to shoot raw with FF cameras' is more about personal ego than about giving the client what they want.

The well known enthusiasts - I think your logic here is rather muddled. There are many 'well-known enthusiasts' who are well known only because of their skills in post processing to produce outstanding quality images.
Apple have not declared war on the camera industry, for the simple reason their phones have cameras. They are simply dong what Apple do best in telling the customer what they will do and when. To download pictures you have to put the photos on the cloud (preferably theirs) so they are tying you in. They are reducing manufacturing costs by not installing a SD reader and not paying any royalities (if they are due) for using SD technology.
One social network site (I don;t recall who) now will only take photos from smartphones and will not take pictures made by 'standalone' cameras.

Younger people - the number of skilled your photographers is growing from what I can see.

You have to admit that the competitions cameras from Panasonic at 350€ are way more appealing than the 1300D.

Click to expand...

You may thing that as an experienced photographer because you know the payoffs, but I have advised several friends and acquaintances on their first camera - I have shown them the images quality and size comparison using my own DSLR and MFT rigs, and every one of them went DSLR.

I think that is the answer, neuroanatomist. Thanks!
I had linepairs/mm in mind whereas it clearly reads LW/PH. So no theoretical considerations necessary.
Perhaps just a pair of glasses. :-[

This, in combination with the sweetspot as Mikehit mentioned, explains why the figures for APS-C are a bit higher than when the figures for FF are just divided by the crop factor.

Is it possible to read out the shutter counter with gphoto2 on EOS M5?

gphoto2 --get-config /main/status/shuttercounter

I read on another site this morning that Canon is working on two different AF systems for the 6D II but a decision has not been reached as to which system will be used. That gives me hope that it will have a decent AF system.

I also use 3rd Party Batteries in addition to genuine Canon batteries. So far, I've been pleased. Mostly Wasabi. Thanks for the detailed info since I recently picked up a 5D4 around Black Friday.

Oh - and congrats Neuro on passing 20K posts. (Wow!)

chrysoberyl said:

Thanks for yet another review! The coma is a little disturbing, but otherwise, it looks good for astro.

Just so I am clear, the camera has no control over aperture? To me, this is a good thing, since it will avoid focus shifting.

Click to expand...

Absolutely none. There is no electronics at all, so aperture is controlled via an old school aperture ring. There's actually very little focusing to do with this lens, unless you are focusing on something within five feet. For me I could pretty just focus to infinity (maybe back it off the tiniest fraction), and at f/5.6 everything was in focus. Just point and shoot.

The GPS stopped flashing after I left the camera on for a minute or so, under a clear path to the sky.

Thank you for all your help.

Thank you for the list. I guess we'll have to wait for the update.

jd7 said:

Larsskv said:

Act444 said:

Larsskv said:

Act444 said:

ahsanford said:

I chatted up Uncle Rog about TDP's less-than-inspiring IQ samples vs. the Mk I version in the comments, and here's what he said:

"Given sample variation I'm not at all surprised. They're really close. They vary. Some are going to find the II a bit better, some the I. I'd expect something like 60:40 find the II a little better."

- A

Click to expand...

And on top of that, the II is larger and heavier. Why carry the extra weight if it's not any sharper? Anyway, let's see how the price holds up. I feel that most folks getting it now will do so as part of a kit; there seems to be little need for us existing 24-105 I owners to rush in line for a non-kitted one...EDIT: I'd like to see the distortion method at 24mm and how correctable it is - this is where the 24-70 dominates the 24-105 V1...if V2 distortion is correctable to the point where lines are at least semi-straight - that'll be an improvement by itself.

As for the 24-70 f4, yes it can be brilliant - but I find it softens up dramatically as you get close to (non-macro) MFD. and the 2.8 II version is still better regardless.

Click to expand...

I'm on my third 24-70 f2.8LII, and it is sharper in the center, and it has good contrast and clarity, that gives a nice pop to its images. However, each of those three lenses have had some issues. At 35mm my current lens is pretty bad in the upper right (APS-C) corner. The 24-70 f4 L IS is not as sharp at its sharpest, but it is much more even and don't have any particular weak spots. For landscapes, the 24-70 f4 is arguably the better lens of the two.

Click to expand...

I disagree about the 24-70 f4 not having any weak spots: if all the lenses I own that cover 50mm, this one is the worst performer at that length (softest, least contrast), and that includes the 50 1.8 STM (although shooting that at 1.8 is similar, at f4 it runs circles around the 24-70). That weakness at 50mm is almost THE reason I still have the 24-105, where it is strongest at 50mm, and sharper near MFD.

If it were simply the 2.8 II version optically with an f4 aperture, it likely would have been an instant 24-105 replacement for me. Alas, it is not, and I keep both and enjoy the extra reach of 105mm.

Click to expand...

I've heard people complain at the 50mm performance, but my experience does not support that. I dont find my 24-70 f4 bad at 50mm at all. It is overall better at 50mm, than my f2.8 is at 35mm.

Roger Cicala has tested the 24-70 f4 at 50mm, and found it to be very close to it's 70mm performance.

Click to expand...

That is my experience also. And that is not the first time I have heard someone say the f/4 IS is more even across the frame than the f/2.8 II (as good as the f/2.8 II may be in many respects), although I don't have enough experience with the f/2.8 II to have an opinion about that myself.

Click to expand...

The 24-70 2.8 II does suffer from focal plane tilt problems and it's very hard to get a uniform copy across the board, probably would need to try at 8-12 copies. But it has insane micro-contrast, it's pretty much APO and reject LoCA amazingly well, it starts super sharp anywhere remotely near the middle even at f/2.8. At the 60-70mm range the corners and field curvature can be a little odd and my 70-300 IS maybe handles the field in a more natural way although anywhere in the center, anywhere not at the corners, the 24-70 is crazy sharp at 70mm even at f/2.8. Some copies are a bit sharper at f/2.8 than others. The best copies are peak center sharpness basically by f/3.2 already while the others probably hit peak center sharpness 2/3 more stops down at f/4. I tried a bunch. My current copy does have on corner pair or corners that do still have focal plane a touch tilted but it's not too bad and over almost all of the frame, including far edges, the results are just fantastic, simply fantastic. Occasionally a scene may be tricky enough to get slightly got by focal tilt at one corner or two compared to 24-70 f/4 IS but in most cases the 24-70 II produces better overall results at 24mm and in the other cases that still holds for the bulk of the frame. I noticed that 24-70 f/4 IS copy variation was of a different sort, the tilt of the focal plane and just regular corner vs corner tended to almost always be in fine balance but the overall quality could vary. The worst copies are softer across the entire frame and far softer along all edges and corners and radically so at 50mm than a good copy.

Would still buy the Milvus, been looking at it lately. Compared the Art and Milvus I do not like the dark purple numbers with the Sigma that should be black.

Wonder how the 85 F1.4 L but be priced, between the Otus and Milvus somewhere I guess.

StudentOfLight said:

I've posted the Astro pictures over on another thread:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=20392.msg638255#msg638255

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=20392.msg638433#msg638433

Click to expand...

I just viewed them, thanks. I may try my 70-200 the next time I have clear, dry air in a low light pollution place. And I definitely will try my Milvus 100/2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hsv6YtNXus

8)

ahsanford said:

East Wind Photography said:

Ive used this with astro and the vignette is not really a big deal, particularly when you get excellent stars all the way to the edge of the field. Your alternatives are to crop out the edges anyway when you get bat wings with other UWA lenses. Plus you can use in camera PIC to to cut your jpg which you cant do with another brand such as tamron.

Click to expand...

So are you pushing the corners of a high ISO long exposure the 4+ stops you've lost (and how does that look?), or do you leave the vignetting in the shot?

I personally don't mind vignetting with portraiture, environmental portraiture, street, travel, etc. but I don't shoot astro.

- A

Click to expand...

No I'm correcting the vignette to flat. You need to.properly expose your image. Obviously if you are under exposing and expect to raise the vignette 4 stops and then try to.push another 3 or 4, you may not be able to do it with a consumer camera. I use a 1dx2 and a 7d2. With the 7d2 I get less vignette due to the crop factor. The 1dx2 handles it quite nicely though. I'm very happy with the lens and the only reason I don't sell my 24 1.4 is that I sometimes need 1.4 otherwise this 18-35 rarely leaves the camera.

This is the page to read - measurements of acutance at different focal lengths and apertures, not perceptual megapixels at some intermediate f. The old one has the edge at 600mm etc

https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side/Tamron-SP-150-600mm-F-5-63-Di-VC-USD-Model-A011-Canon-on-Canon-EOS-5DS-R-versus-Tamron-SP-150-600mm-F5-63-Di-VC-USD-G2-Model-A022-Canon-on-Canon-EOS-5DS-R__1263_1009_1751_1009

TDP is similar in the centre

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=1079&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=5&API=0&LensComp=929&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=5&APIComp=0

However, copy variation in these lenses is important. From the several reviews I have read, on average the older lens has the advantage in the centre at 600mm. My current Sigma 150-600mm C is far better than the Tamron 150-600mm I sold.

AAPhotog said:

neuroanatomist said:

It's called the Canon Loyalty Program. AFAIK, it only applies to cameras, not lenses. Apparently the discounts aren't that much, any more.

Click to expand...

thanks. yes indeed it was the loyalty program. shame the prices arent as low as they used to be, although I was only interested in some lenses any way.

Click to expand...

If you wait for a sale, you can save 15% off the refurb prices, the loyalty program used to give as much as 20% off, but its more like 5% now. They discounted cameras, but not lenses unless bought with a camera.

I have bought some a few years back, but don't bother now.

Maiaibing said:

pwp said:

Dustin's review certainly warmed up my interest in a 5D MkIV. But by the time you add a genuine grip and extra batteries, the $$ leap to a 1DX MkII doesn't look that huge. Better for video...

Click to expand...

But, once you buy the CF-Fast cards the $$ leap is back!

Click to expand...

That, also if you buy additional 1DxII batteries not to mention a second charger just in case it is needed! :

YellowJersey said:

Came across a review for the Tokina 20mm f/2 lens for Sony E-mount.

http://www.stanmoniz.com/home/tokina-firin-20mm-review

Reviewer seems a little too enthusiastic, so maybe take with a grain of salt, but his samples look pretty good, and the coma looks good in the pic he provided. I'd like to see how it compares to the Samyang 14mm 2.4 premium and the Laowa 15mm f/2, once they're all out.

Click to expand...

I'm with you; let's see how the Samyang 14mm 2.4 and the Laowa test out vs. this one. Also the Samyang 20mm 1.8. Nice to have these options, assuming they're all good.

If you find that doing the pixel remapping using the manual sensor cleaning technique doesn't remove enough of the "hot" pixels, try taking 10+ min of video before initializing the sensor cleaning.

This helps to warm up the sensor ensuring more of the "hot" pixels are mapped out (I managed to remove pixels using this technique that only showed up with 3+ min exposures).

Has this issue been fixed by recent firmware upgrades on either side?

Don Haines said:

Spock said:

It should be more than obvious that the reason for the declining popularity of the P/S camera is that they do not have full frame sensors.

The solution is simple, put FF sensors into P/S cameras.

A FF P/S camera with a 4X optical zoom, at a cost of $300 would capture the market.

The 4X optical zoom would be easy to build. Most of the design work is already done. Just use a 24-105F4 lens design and add a power zoom to it, and mount this as the permanent lens.

The Body could be similar to the 6D, but by getting rid of the mirror and mount and then changing the optics of the lens to bend the light sharper, you could reduce the thickness of the camera by almost 2cm, and the only drawback would be the increased vignetting caused by the sharper angles at the corners of the sensor.

It could easily be sold for that price if Canon was willing to loose money on each one sold.....

Shirt pockets could easily be redesigned to hold a 6D sized P/S camera that is 15 cm thick and weighs somewhere around 1.5 kilos....

Apparently, millions of people would line up to purchase such a camera and Canon would then be saved from certain doom.

Click to expand...

At last! A logical assessment of the situation! I shall have to get busy sewing oversize pockets on my shirts for this revolutionary P/S camera.

Click to expand...

But it would have to have 4k video for the same price or else Canon would be doomed!

owning a crop body,

I am considering this Tamron 85mm VC and the Sigma 50-100mm.
Prime vs Zoom....

Re: Stock Notice: Sigma 50-100 f/1.8 Art at B&H Photo

I have the 18-35mm and I would recommend crop glass for crop bodies (except for outdoor action / wildlife) and enjoy!

Should you get the full frame in the future and you may want to get full frame glass.

Thanks for the detailed review.

I was previously considering the Canon 85mm f/1.8 or the Tamron until I come across this Sigma 50-100mm.
Very sharp!

Maybe I should add a battery grip for vertical grip.