I'd like to hear jrista's take on this. It looks like a colour shift as folks have said. What strikes me about it is the possibility of getting city lights AND the Milky Way in the same shot- if might prevent the city from being so blown out as to be beyond the reach of PP, while still preserving some detail of the MW.

sdsr said:

nda said:

sdsr said:

Sporgon said:

Focus peaking ? Meh, it sounds great in theory, in practice I have found it to be pretty useless. Only really works when there is a very, very shallow dof and even then I'm not convinced it is any improvement over an "s" screen.

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I think it's overrated too. It works better with sharper, higher contrast lenses, sometimes well enough that I can use it by itself; but I (like most people, I suspect) prefer to use it in conjunction with magnification, and it's nice to have both together in the viewfinder; I find the two together to work extremely well. Other advantages - never having to even consider AFMA and, depending on camera design, the ability to attach just about any lens. regardless of who made it.

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Well I think its underrated and the best thing since sliced bread! I use focus peaking with my A7R2 & A72 with my old FD Canon lenses and I'm getting great results, I also have the 50mm & 35mm Loxia's and there just as good, manual focus and peaking has made photography fun again! for me 8)

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I quite agree re the appeal of manual focusing (that's the main reason why I have an a7s & a7rII), but do you find peaking by itself to be accurate? I usually get better results when combining it with magnification.

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Yes magnification is great especially at wide apertures when focus is critical, at f/5.6 and narrower you can just use peaking I find it to be accurate Iearning the hyperfocal distances is also a great tool, manual focusing is very rewarding and helps with composition, once mastered its very accurate and fast ;D

Diko said:

Actually not necessarily. The 5D4 is more versatile ergo has a bigger USER (not fan) base.

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The 5DIV has a bigger user base than the 1D X II because it's more versatile...nothing to do with the fact that it's $2,500 cheaper. Ok, sure. :

ahsanford said:

Luds34 said:

How good are these Irix lenses performance (optically) wise? The 11mm is far too extreme for my needs, but the 15mm could be right up my alley.

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This is OT, but FYI on two reviews I've seen on the 15mm:

https://www.ephotozine.com/article/irix-15mm-f-2-4-lens-review-30126

http://www.lenstip.com/index.html?test=obiektywu&test_ob=486

- A

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Thanks ahsanford, I appreciate the links. My apologies if I was deviating the thread too much. Was just wondering in a general sense how good these Irix lenses are performing, specifically if anyone around here has used one yet.

Anyway, thanks again.

Excellent choice! Now about that "accessory" in the back of the lens... ;D

Nobody except Canon has real data if/which of their products are "selling well" ... or not.

Non-bundled retail price for EF 75-300 III is pretty much the same as EF-S 55-250 IS II and 75-300 III USM is same price as EF-S 55-250 IS STM.

At both price points, punters would get a LOT more VALUE with EF-S 55-250 for their hard-earned money.

Overview of EU street prices for all Canon tele-zoom lenses: http://bit.ly/2hcXVRn

Zeidora said:

AF confirm is a camera function and is optically determined by the camera body. If you want to blame a piece of equipment, then it is the body, not the lens.

The metal expansion/contraction would come into play, if you have an object at distance x, and set focus at the x mark and you get differences in sharpness in different temperature settings.

If you need critical focus, get a matt focusing screen, or use live view and magnify the area of interest. If you are concerned about focus breathing (I have not noticed any issues with the 100 MP), then do use live view with depth of field preview pressed.

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Not to be rude, but if you read the first and second post I wrote this has nothing to do with the viewfinder or mattscreens and lack of presicion in the dslr. Critical focus is actually very easy, it just changes afma value with temperatur, and is that common for others within such a small temp change requiring that huge adjustment?

Canon Europe has a great autofocus setting guidebook.

http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/news/canon_publishes_the_af_setting_guidebook_for_eos-1d_x_mark_ii.do

I would also suggest going through the manual's instructions for the menu settings.

Aside from the standard menu options, one of the most useful is the ability to customize the Q menu.

If you ever have to send it in for repair/cleaning you can download all your custom settings to a card so that when it comes back set to factory defaults, you just copy your settings off the card.

Those are the things that stuck out for me.

I've attended conferences and submitted papers, and the technology is generally limited to what is already publicly known and does not tell you anything as to what is seriously under development. That kind of information is very proprietary. Each paper submitted is carefully reviewed within the company to make sure no sensitive information is presented.

I would expect that the actual state of the art is well advanced over what is being presented, and probably uses a different technique. Canon is ultra secretive.

aries said:

TommyLee said:

I would be interested to know specifics...
pre and post tests etc.....

anyone know of any numbers .......on the effects?
...
and ...also...separately....how does this all compare to the old version (which I use)

thanks

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The firmware update is actually a bug fix to IS.

I have a copy of 24-105 II and suffering from blurry image when shooting at shutter speed around 1/160s. Even on a sunny day with 24mm f/7.1 1/160s - 1/200s. I brought the lens to Canon for service on 2/12 and the technician told me the IS was malfunction and need to be replaced. Today I took the lens back and the customer service representative told me the lens was being fixed by a firmware upgrade.

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thanks for that info...
useful
I got the feeling that Canon...sort of half-heartedly... upgraded this lens..
I mean it COULD have been a news item....if they wanted to make it one...
..
but not at expensive of otgher sales?..

I like mine for gen purpose...
but would like that range with the quality of 16-35 f4 I.S. .. or 35L ii...ha...ok asking too much...

I had a place in line for it..and was gonna sell the old one..or give to grandson....
but they ... schlepped thru this upgrade...IMO
at least make it sharper and have lower coma....maybe lower distortion at 24mm
......something....

still...if I didnt have the old one ..I might conside the new one..
but I have gotten ...sorta picky ...after the 100-400 ii and 35L ii so good...

great forum... I would not know this without some input like you just provided..

The 85 1.8 will sell like purple fringed hotcakes

I have upgraded mine with 1.03. I have used it with 500 II + 2XIII with no error messages.

hmm, am I the only one with a 50mm F/1.8 II with only the serial written at the lens mount? I don't see any Canon Inc or CanonInc on my lens, except the one on the focus ring (front of the lens)

Get a lightweight ball head, screw it directly to the umbrella mount, and screw a cold head adapter on top

SalAlexander said:

Interesting, I was indeed thinking about movie mode.
Sorry

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In that case it actually makes sense to have the IS on all the time while filming or disable it completely by switching it off on the lens.

-Sebastian

YuengLinger said:

Not sure if this is relevant enough to be meaningful, but with my 100-400mm II + 1.4x tele, my AFMA value is +12, the most for any lens registered.

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My 100-400mm II on the 5DS R has a low positive AFMA. But, on my 5DIV, the AFMA goes from 0 to +11 with both of my 1.4xTC IIIs, and the quality of fit drops significantly. How is your QoF affected?

AdamBotond, it's very personal. My choice if I couldn't justify the 1DX2 and would miss the reach of the 1D4 would be the 5D4, for its extra cropping capability. If I had the reach I needed and didn't mind the 18 MP then the 1DX. Personally, although it might sound superficial, I really wanted the illuminated AF points of the 1DX2 after having had them with the 1D4 and I now would be hard pressed to give up the 14 FPS. If you don't care too much about the speed I'd go 5D4.

Jack

...I'd really like to see a comparison between the G2 and the Sigma S.....

I see that Canon USA has gotten into the online learning business, trying to sell instructional videos for download. The topics look very basic and aimed mostly st beginners, but I'm wondering if anyone has purchased any of these and what your experience has been.

neuroanatomist said:

3kramd5 said:

super telephone lenses

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Like this?

;D

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Hah!

Typo will remain for posterity!

With my 85mm 1.2 L AFMA'd, I'm finding sharpness the same in both AF and Live View.

I will say that the speed of Live View compared to the 5DIII actually startled me. I couldn't believe my eyes.

But doing a scientific comparison is too much of a challenge for me. LiveView is sharp and quick. Viewfinder AF is incredibly fast and much, much more accurate than I ever got from my 5DIII.

The Register reports Lynda.com has been hacked, and 55,000 user data has been accessed.

More at http://www.theregister.co.uk/2016/12/18/linkedin_lynda_breach/

If you use, or used the service, you may want at least to change the password.

Hi,
Summary:
P Mode
Main Dial (Top Dial) let you change a different set of Shutter Speed and Aperture values.
Aperture and Shutter Speed will change accordingly. ISO might also change if in Auto ISO mode.
When adjust EC using Quick Control Dial (Rear Dial), Aperture or Shutter Speed will change accordingly. ISO might also change if in Auto ISO mode.

Av Mode
Main Dial (Top Dial) let you set desired Aperture.
Shutter Speed or ISO (if in Auto ISO) will change accordingly.
When adjust EC using Quick Control Dial (Rear Dial), Shutter Speed or ISO (if in Auto ISO) will change accordingly.

Tv Mode
Main Dial (Top Dial) let you set desired Shutter Speed.
Aperture or ISO (if in Auto ISO) will change accordingly.
When adjust EC using Quick Control Dial (Rear Dial), Aperture or ISO (if in Auto ISO) will change accordingly.

M Mode
Main Dial (Top Dial) let you set desired Shutter Speed.
Quick Control Dial (Rear Dial) let you set desired Aperture.
ISO (if in Auto ISO) will change accordingly.
When adjust EC (only available in Auto ISO), ISO will change accordingly.

Have a nice day.

The more and more I read, the Sigma C is the best bang for your buck of all 3 150-600 variants, especially when you factor in CA and corner sharpness.