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MintChocs · Nov 2, 2015

I was hoping to get one too! The two main problems for me with the SL1 are the old sensor and old AF system. I was hoping that the SL2 would be better but alas it looks like that this camera will never make it past being more than a rumour.

Stu_bert · Nov 2, 2015

Re: New FAA regulation - Lithium batteries not in hold luggage in States

Valvebounce said:
Hi Stu_bert.
I know you asked Mt Spokane this, but on posts I have started I found lock and delete, bottom left of the page, by the jump to subject box. I realise that you possibly want to delete the thread as it is a duplicate, but with the way the search function works (not) it might help to leave it. People have put effort in to the responses and it does link to the other thread.
Just to add something relavent, my batteries have always flown with me in the cabin as there is no way I'd hand my hard earned gear over for the ground staff to throw around, I've watched them out the departure lounge window, though they are possibly no worse than the automatic sorter machines.

Cheers, Graham.

Hi Graham

Many thanks - never noticed and I kept looking in the bottom right, doh!

Cheers
Stu

@Canonfanboy - I presume it is the "naked" connections which can cause it, hence the advice about protecting theme.

AlanF · Nov 2, 2015

Don Haines said:
neuroanatomist said:

Don Haines said:

Without DXO I would not have known that the plastic 50F1.8 that I paid $50 for (used) is a better lens that the 600F4 that other members of this form paid $12,000 for. Imagine, a better lens for only 1/240th the price......

Click to expand...

Don't be absurd, it's entirely dependent on the use case. For example, consider the MOAI Score, where the 600/4 scores a 17 and the 50/1.8 scores a 3. If you were marooned on an island, with the 600/4 you could use the front element to start a fire each night, the hood as a seat, the lens cap as a bowl, and the barrel to crack open coconuts and fend off inimical wildlife. The 50/1.8 is so light it could not even be used to knock a coconut from a tree.

Click to expand...

I'm lost here..... How do you use a lens element to start a fire at night...... I can see it working in the day when the sun is shining, but by moonlight?

You have been trying three weeks? That's right, you can't do it at night. So, you can put the front element back and start taking photos again at 600mm.

wsmith96 · Nov 1, 2015

You may want to consider a 3rd party wireless triggering system and the canon 430EXII. The 430EXII has been replaced by the EXIII recently so I would expect to see a lot of people upgrading and flooding the market with them. I just bought a third one on ebay for $90. I don't use any third party triggering systems, but if you search the forum I'm sure you can find some great recommendations. I use an optical system (ST-E2) and it works fine for my needs.

If you are not brand loyal, then most folks seem to like the Yongou products for cost effective flash.

JumboShrimp · Nov 1, 2015

I took the Tokina 11-20/2.8 ATX on a recent trip and loved it - mounted on a 70D. A bonus is that it also fits full frame from about 16mm up to 20mm, and it's still an f/2.8.

Hjalmarg1 · Nov 1, 2015

azizjhn said:
Hi Gents

I am assigned to shoot horse jumping event in Jan 2016. I own a 6D & i don’t have a zoom lens (sold long time ago for cash) and I’m confused what to get regarding the camera & the lens

For the Camera should i sell me 6D & get the 5D MK iii (cons: Waiting for replacement) or get a 7D MK ii as a second camera or keep 6D (cons: i don’t trust the autofocus for something like this)

For the lens i am looking for one of these 2 options:

1- EF 70-300 L (Pros: Compact spending for it, Cons: 5.6 maximum aperture not sure if it is good for this event or do i need larger “advice required”)
2- EF 70-200 2.8 ii L (sure it is the best, cons: Large, Expensive)
3- Tamron 70-200 2.8 VC (Pros: cheaper than the Canon, advice required regarding it is autofocus)

Your advice please :-[

I'd sell the 6D and get the 5D3 or the 7D2, it depends on how close you'll to the action and the 70-200/2.8L II.

martti · Nov 1, 2015

"Ignore the lion!"

one of the better lines I've seen here for a while...

tpatana · Nov 1, 2015

1DX is awesome for sports.

>50% of my clicks are sport-shooting at ISO6400.

meywd · Oct 31, 2015

Don Haines said:
Photography is about the capture of light.... A lens with an 80mm entrance is going to capture 100 times as much light as an 8mm lens..... High quality glass well spaced out will distort less than plastic sandwiched together...

DSLR quality? Yeah..... Right......

+1, really wish there was a way to report such claims, better than a 5D....

bholliman · Oct 31, 2015

Sorry, I didn't think to check for previous posts on this topic.

Rahul · Oct 31, 2015

Thanks everyone. I will try this tomorrow.

Don Haines · Oct 30, 2015

AdrianAllen said:
Don Haines said:

30 second exposure, Tokina 11-16 at 11mm and F2.8.... sometimes you need all the light you can get...

and yes, I have the 10-20.......at home.... in a box....

if you are interested in "portraits/landscapes/street ", the 11-16 might be a bit wide for you..... Personally, I prefer the 17-55F2.8 for that......

Click to expand...

10-20? you mean the 10-22mm from canon? but isn't the 10-18mm having the better reviews from the two?

Oh and by the way, i'm only shooting in Crop( 70D ) so the range is actually a bit fine. Right?? sorry still a newbie.

OOPS! I meant 10-22.... good catch!

I've never used the 10-18 so I can't say anything about it.....

BTW, have you ever played around with stitching images together to get a wider field of view? I do that all the time when my lens isn't wide enough....

TWI by Dustin Abbott · Oct 30, 2015

koenkooi said:
Sporgon said:

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

In fact, the output from the M3 is better than from my 70D and close to my 6D bodies.

Click to expand...

That surprises me. I though the 20.2 MP DPAF chip would be better in 'IQ' than the newer 24 MP rebel one.

Click to expand...

There's a 1.5-2 year gap between the 70d and M3 release which could explain the improvements.

+1 The images are noticeably cleaner from M3 vs the 70D, and I noticed the same of the M1 vs the 60D.

rs · Oct 30, 2015

takesome1 said:
tpatana said:

geekpower said:

ok this is actually not that hard

Click to expand...

Yea, only takes like 15 pages to explain ;D

Click to expand...

Yes, but 11 pages were about noise not increasing at all at higher ISO's.

This thread was derailed on page 3. Were at the part where the authorities come out and try and figure what went wrong and clean up the wreck.

The wreck has already been cleaned away, but there's still a lot of rubbernecking going on

tpatana · Oct 30, 2015

These Monday mornings, I guess I should drink more coffee. I'd say 99% sure it's for refurbished. Move on, nothing to see here.

krautland · Oct 30, 2015

cayenne said:
How did you get yours?

you did read the 10 minute part, right? NAB.

nbaker · Oct 29, 2015

Hi Scott,

Sorry to drag up an old thread but just wondered how you have been getting on this this lens?

I am considering either this lens or a Canon EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 L IS II USM to go with a 7D Mk. ii ready for next years Flying Legends.

Many thanks

Nigel.

RustyTheGeek · Oct 29, 2015

cayenne said:
Ian_of_glos said:

Thank you for your reply.
I still don't really understand why it is more convenient - how can it be easier than taking a CD off the shelf and loading it into the CD player? To me this is the biggest advantage of CDs - they are physical items that you can see and touch, not a file buried in some complicated computer file store.
The point about having a backup is interesting, but as second hand CDs are so inexpensive now I usually just replace any that are damaged or lost.

Click to expand...

I generally buy CDs...and rip them to flac immediately and put the CD on the shelf for storage.

I keep the higher fidelity FLAC files on my media computer in the living room, for the "good" stereo...tube amps, Klipsch K-Horn speakers...etc. I like to play from my media computer, makes making playlists easy, etc.

Also with the files coming from a computer, you can avoid some wow/flutter type problems you might have with a cheaper cd player...and with my computer set up, I can set up my own high end DAC before it hits the amps. (That's actually a project I'm working on)...

I also make lower quality mp3's for my portable players...for the gym or car which are some of the worst listening environments on the earth, even if using pretty high end headphones.

and as for selling and "having to erase" for copyright. I guess I'm old school. I don't buy anything that I'd ever sell again. I guess I'm more of an old school guy in that to me, music isn't disposable.....that might be the reason I don't find much modern music to be worth buying, but that's another thread entirely.

cayenne

cayenne, someday you and I are going to have to meet.... (very similar interests, etc... old school for sure!). Seriously.

rfdesigner · Oct 29, 2015

One thing it would do is give canon an idea for the real world demand.

Personally I don't want one. I like the zero latency and zero power consumption of an OVF. I do like a fine ground screen, so an electronically switchable screen would be nice (I think there was a patent for this recently)

Where I CAN see an advantage is in having an EVF for when the mirror is up, so when you're shooting at 25fps in your 1DxII (one can hope) it then switches to EVF and shows you the last photo just taken allowing you to see properly and meaning you can keep the mirror up between shots, so potentially increasing the fps, if the ADCs and readout circuitry is up to it. (maybe 25fps isn't so outlandish then)

Point is a bolt on EVF probably wouldn't help in this regard.

Zanken · Oct 29, 2015

I think that you should keep the SL1 for discrete shooting and sneaky concerts, and pickup whatever body your budget will allow. A second hand 7D goes for fairly cheap - even better if you have friends, borrow one and see if you are happy with the image quality of the older gen model.

In other news, the thought of a 100D paired with a 100-400L is making me giggle.

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 28, 2015

I remember Nikon being called out for a advertisement actually shot with a Canon camera a few years ago. Advertising agencies are pretty clueless when it comes to stuff like this.

East Wind Photography · Oct 28, 2015

jimc8p said:
Hi

I'd like some advice on which lens to get for my 7D.

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0 L IS USM

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

I'm torn between these two because I don't know which one will suit my style more. I have been used to a 17-85mm f/4.0 kit lens and a 50mm f/1.8, both of which I'm selling. I'm concerned that the 24-105 is slower and will limit me with depth of field and low light shooting. And the 17-55 has less reach and may be less of a future investment as an EF-S. Here are a few details about my photography...

I think I'm quite lazy about the technical side of things, and like to keep gear as simple as possible. I don't mind small losses in quality or control for the sake of convenience (eg. staying with my 17-85mm lens for years before getting the 50mm). I like being zoomed in rather than zoomed out. Being wider than my 17mm shots has never seemed necessary to me. I like shooting in low light, and I like shooting with shallow depth of field. I think I will be sticking with my 7D for a while, and I will be getting the Canon EF 50mm - f/1.4 USM. Below are a couple of links to my stuff for reference.

https://www.behance.net/gallery/Portrait-Photography/2075548
https://www.behance.net/gallery/Photography/775988

Any advice greatly appreciated!

----Sorry, moved this from the Rumors forum

I picked up a tamron 16-300 the other day mainly for video use but it seems to have pretty good iq considering its range. I would not hesitate to use this where iq is not of highest priority, nor where you are shooting in poor light. However for an all around lens thats weather sealed its a pretty decent value. You might also want to consider a fast prime to go with it for those not so ideal conditions.

East Wind Photography · Oct 28, 2015

privatebydesign said:
East Wind Photography said:

privatebydesign said:

Your assertion that "no chance of any external manipulation or hidden settings such as what got me on my first go around with in camera settings" is invalid, the WB settings difference proves that.

The only way you can view native RAW files is in something like dcraw, short of that you have to know, definitively, which tags any individual viewer will honor.

Click to expand...

Well i agree on the viewer part. However the WB setting was internal, not external and was my fault for not checking that. Still i dont think it has much affect on the noise reduction....but who knows what the digic is doing.

Click to expand...

WB is not "internal" to a RAW file, it is a tag attached in the embedded sidecar file, if a viewer is honouring WB information it is reading that sidecar file, who knows if it is honoring NR tags and or reading the embedded jpeg?

In truth the only relevant comparison is a fully and optimally post processed file vs another optimally processed RAW file both to your personal specific end uses, and coming from different cameras would imply different processing for each to achieve optimal. To be sure 'RAW' is pretty meaningless, it is only the end result we can achieve with that data that is relevant.

Ok so i can buy the concept that what i may be seeing is an embedded jpg image. So in that case the comparisons here are still reasonable, just not pure raw. Only the one pair had NR applied, the rest had it disabled. The original comparison was that the 5dsr would have less noise because it is a full frame sensor and the attempt was to show that the same subject at the same distance on the 7d2 would have similar noise levels as the 5dsr. Both sensors share the same pixel size. From what i have been seeing, the noise is not less on the 5dsr. The pattern is different and perhaps easier to reduce algorythmically.

If you were to change your distance such that the subject filled the frame on the 5dsr, yes the noise would be smaller and less visible. I actually wish instillhad my 5diii to compare as well. It shoud fair a stop or two better due to its larger pixel size.

Anyway, in end as you say, its the finished product that matters the most, no matter how you get there.

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 28, 2015

SPKoko said:
After:

Sony sensors are now their own business

now we learn that:

Sony to Acquire Toshiba’s Image Sensor Business for $165M, Report Says

How do you think that this will affect Canon and us as consumers? Should Canon give up and start buying sensors from the now almost-sensor-monopoly as it will be impossible to compete with them? Should Canon raise their bet and invest tons of $ in R&D to be the only real alternative/competition to Sony?

You are thinking that Sony's sensor market is all about DSLR's?

Its about phones, 7 or more sensors in a car, sensors for appliances, homes, everything imaginable. That's why Sony split it off into a new business, they see the sensor business to be far larger than the relatively few DSLR's being sold.

Canon is not in the sensor business, except as making them for their DSLR's and a few High End P&S cameras. They have mostly sourced many tens or hundreds of millions of small P&S sensors from Sony since the beginning. Those LCD screens are from Sony as well. The camera business in Japan is very intermingled, with manufacturers selling parts to each other. P&S lenses are also a commodity, and often the same lens assembly is used in multiple makes of camera. Only the high end P&S have a Canon made lens. Nikon is said to farm out production of their P&S cameras. It is a complex tangled web.

KitsVancouver · Oct 28, 2015

My 24-105 has started to consistently show an error code (can't remember which one). All my other lenses work fine so I'm assuming it's a problem with the lens.

I took a look online at Canon CPS for Canada services which shows different levels of service. It's $100 a year which gets 20% off repairs and free shipping. The quote for one lens repair is about $260.

The single lens repair still seems to be the better deal since 20% off of $260 PLUS free shipping is less the annual $100 annual fee.

I'm just wondering if I'm missing something and if someone can speak to their experience with Canada repair services. I live in Vancouver.

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