Posts

keithcooper · Jul 10, 2016

New firmware (V1.1) takes the max custom page length to 25.5"

http://www.canon.co.uk/support/consumer_products/products/printers/inkjet/other_series/imageprograf_pro-1000.aspx?type=firmware

"Feature: (1.1): ROM: The maximum printable height of custom paper size will be lengthened to 25.5-inch (647.70mm) with specifying in the printer driver."

Still a very nice printer...
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/reviews/printer/review-canon_pro-1000.html

Hillsilly · Jul 9, 2016

Isaac Szabo did my last camera - http://www.isaacszabo.com/index.html

If you're not in the US, you might be happy to hear that mine was an international order and everything went very smoothly with good instructions and communication.

Click · Jul 9, 2016

Cool pictures. 8)

FTb-n · Jul 9, 2016

Act444 said:
FTb-n said:

Sabaki said:

I've watched some birders take bif sequences with a 1DX and they nail at least a 90% keeper rate, which is not the same for users of the 5Diii. (Admittedly, most of the birders in my community will shoot with a 1DX or 7Dii and not the 5Diii)

When chatting to those 1DX users, they advise the following:
* The bigger battery drives the lenses quicker and more efficiently
* The dedicated ITR chip in the 1DX means tracking in AI Servo mode is just way better

Anybody agree or disagree with their above statements?

Click to expand...

Absolutely agree with both. The battery benefit is often missed when comparing these two bodies. I have also found that auto exposure (Auto ISO in manual mode) and auto white balance are both more accurate with the 1Dx.

My needs are rather demanding. I shoot a lot of figure skating including ice shows under nothing but spotlights. The AI Servo mode is particularly challenged during rotational jumps. Keep in mind that AI Servo is a predictive algorithm where the system tracks the subject's movement to predict where the subject will be when the shutter is actually tripped. This is why it's best to start tracking a second before shooting. This algorithm is critical for burst mode when the AF system if frequently interrupted when the mirror is up.

During a rotational jump, the subject starts by skating in one direction, which is easy for the camera to track. Then the skater suddenly goes vertical and while in the air, rotates. Now whatever portion of the costume that the focus point locked on is moving up, away, then back toward the camera. With the 5D3, I often lost focus during the jump. This seemed to be hit or miss. It also often tracked without problem. By the way, during practice, skaters often wear black with no contrasting decoration -- yet another challenge for the AF system.

The 1Dx is noticeably more consistent with AF tracking during jumps. It isn't 100% and at full burst, I can still get a frame or two that isn't quite sharp. But, my keeper rate is much higher. Plus, the 12 FPS makes it possible to get a photo of a skater in mid-jump while looking in my direction. With the 5D3, I had to try to time this moment and most often missed. (The 8 FPS burst mode of the 7D was also too slow to get this moment.)

Most recently, I shot skaters during dress rehearsal (under spotlights) while I was on the ice in skates. There were a couple skaters with signature moves that I was able capture while I was moving (actually chasing the skater as they skated away from me during their element). The 1Dx/70-200 f2.8L II did a great job tracking the subject under these circumstances.

Click to expand...

Wow, thanks for this insight. I also have (limited) experience shooting at ice shows and it's a serious challenge for any AF system to handle. Poor lighting (spotlights can be dim, and don't always stay on skater) AND fast action combined. I got, at best, mixed results with the 7D and 60D cameras. The 7D I found to be rather inconsistent, missing even opening/ending pose shots (!) on occasion. The 7D2 in particular was a major disappointment and I had entire series of shots that were no good. That said, the increased buffer of the 7D series often meant I took more shots with them, which translated into more keepers in general than I got with the 60D I was using prior. Has me thinking whether the 1D would make a difference or not...

I find that for me, most missed shots are not necessarily during jumps, but during turns (changes in direction, coming around the rink) and occasionally spins. The biggest contributor, though, appears to be the costume the skater has on. Some skaters can wear smooth, shiny costumes which can really give the AF fits and leads to a noticeably lower hit rate than the skaters who wear more detailed outfits.

Figure skating was a key factor in my gear acquisitions. I went from an XT to the 60D with the 70-200 f2.8L II. The 60D was obviously a big improvement over the XT, but it often had tracking issues when the skater changed directions. Then I went to the 7D and tracking improved immensely. But, during ice shows, I still needed better low-light performance and added the 5D3. The 5D3 lacked the buffer, FPS, and the dual processors of the 7D, but the AF system was still an improvement. The really big jump (no pun intended) in performance came with the 1Dx.

You are absolutely right with the observation of a skater's costume. AF systems like contrast. I sometimes have the most trouble during practice ice (with full arena lights) with skaters who wear all black practice attire.

Another factor that drove my need for better gear is the skill of the skaters. Early on, my main concern was photographing my daughter. As she progressed, I started shooting more for the club and more of other skaters in her group. Now they are among the most advance skaters in the club and the elements that perform involves more speed and more rotation. With better gear and more practice getting shots of these skaters in action, shooting younger skaters doing single jumps seems so much easier than it did a few years ago.

Zeidora · Jul 9, 2016

For those concerned about IQ, also consider the Zeiss 100 mm MP. Quite a bit better quality than the Canon 180M, particularly no lateral color. Focussing the Zeiss is faster than the 180M in AF. Price is about the same.
I have the 180M, but only use it as lens of last resort. With a TC 1.4x it gives you a 252 mm lens, and that is usually sufficient to be safe for venomous snakes. Has anybody compared that set-up vs. 300/2.8 with extension rings? One of those things on my to-do list.

Neutral · Jul 9, 2016

hayden said:
Neutral said:

Jack Douglas said:

What I'm reading here makes good sense to me. In spite of comments such as Neuro makes, I think Canon is going to find themselves with fewer and fewer customers in the future if they don't adapt. My needs are presently met by Canon and I won't be switching but locally I see quite a few who are.

Brand loyalty is natural but kind of foolish in many respects.

Jack

Click to expand...

I am afraid that Canon underestimates threats for them from technology evolutions trends in this particular area and accelerating speed of this evoluion. There is more to see before the end of this year – especially some highly anticipated products from Sony (e.g.A9) utilizing new sensor technologies. I have some expectations – will see if that comes true – especially regarding new BSI stacked sensor in A9 and improvements in high ISO performance and AF performance. If that happens – it will be very difficult to resist buying one.

Another thing is recent Hasselblad X1D announcement.
What I see in many comments around internet that most of the people underestimate or do not understand what does it mean and focus on current camera limitations and native lens selection.
From my point of view, this is major breakthrough and this marks beginning of the new era in photography.
However, this is another topic.

Click to expand...

My dilemma:

If you were starting all over right now with $10,000, what would you choose between:

1) Canon 1DX mark 2 + (24-70mm 2.8 + 85mm 1.2)
or
2) Sony (A7R II + A7S II) + (G-master 24-70mm 2.8 & 85mm 1.4)

I have read tons of reviews and I am tortured. I need a camera that can do basically everything for fashion: studio, street, runway, videos (thus the A7S II).

If not for the runway, I wouldn't need the burst speed of the 1DX2.

I am primarily concerned with:

1. Sony system longevity -- I don't want Sony to create yet another mount system making all previous bodies and lens incompatible
2. A7R II and S II focussing ability for rapidly walking runway models coming at me (photo and video).
3. Not that I really need 4K 60fps video, but the 1DX2 has it, while the Sonys are limited to 4K 30fps
4. Lack of touchscreen on Sonys (why given how they are supposed to be the vanguard of new tech in the camera industry right now??!!)
5. I figure other miscellaneous costs will equal out, e.g.: battery grips for Sonys vs the insane cost for CFast cards

Initially I was leaning toward the two Sonys over the 1DX2, but after testing our the A7r 2, I found the lag from the buffer and other operations a bit unbearable (granted I wasn't using the fastest SD card, but I read that even with fast SD cards there is a tremendous lag that will cause missed shots)

I have a gut feeling that Sony might make me happier once the A7r 3 addresses more shortcomings of the A7r 2, but I need a new system NOW.

What would be your advice on choosing a new system?

This is not an easy choice, especially taking into account possible new announcements soon.

I solved that for myself long time back by just having both systems – 1DXm2 and Sony A7r2 (also older 1DX and A7S) – they are best complements to each other and A7r2 works perfectly well with Canon glass.
Both are excellent ones for their intended use.
1DXm2 for fast actions, sports, events etc. and a7r2 for stills and slow actions.

With 1DXm2, my Canon EF85 f/1.2 got second life on the Canon body and became as easy to use (in live view mode) as it was on A7r2.

From your list, I would rather use 1DXm2 for runways (to have results that are 100% predictable) and A7r2 for all the rest.
If having both systems is not possible, I would rather stick to 1DXm2 for now – this is almost perfect camera in all respects for critical paid jobs.

For studio A7r2 is obvious choice – image quality is much better than from any canon bodies (including 1DXm2) plus eye AF with native glass is very important advantage. I wish that Canon could do the same for 1DXm2 via FW upgrade – they have all required for that in 1DXm2.
I used A7r2 with for people walking in front of me and even using Canon 100-400+ EX1.4mIII with Metabone adapter results were good. As I am hobbyist then for me, it is not critical if some shots are missed but for paid jobs (fashion, events, sports), I would still recommend using 1DXm2 for now.

As walk around and general use camera, A7r2 is much more convenient and resulting images are superb.

If time were not critical, I would rather wait until September for new Sony and Canon announcements (A9 from Sony and 5DmIV from Canon before making any choice). My expectations that new Sony A9 will be significant leap forward in all respects (sensor tech for IQ , high ISO performance and professional graded AF) so it might be close to 1DXm2 regarding AF but at least one generation (or more) ahead in sensor technology. Paired with new G-Master glass this could be top performing combo and possibly the best choice for you.

On the other hand, Canon with 5DmIV should be also up to all your requirements and would cost significantly less than Sony A9 with G-Master lenses.

adamfilip · Jul 8, 2016

Athabasca Falls, Alberta
F5.6 500ISO 1/250 Sec 6D

marvinhello · Jul 8, 2016

Policar said:
Does it work on a C300 Mk II?

Those are not sold at Canon US Online Store. You can use it on XC10 though, it's considered a camcorder.

2n10 · Jul 8, 2016

neuroanatomist said:
2n10 said:

ahsanford said:

2n10 said:

I have use a BR strap for years on a gripped 7D with a 100-400 lens and the tammy 150-600 lens with no issue. Same goes with my 7D2. I just make sure to tighten the lug down very well. I hike around with this combination so there is a fair bit of movement. I have found the grip tends to loosen more than the BR lug.

Click to expand...

Yep, I was worried about that as the grip lacks the rubberized washer (which adds the ability to tension the lug) of the BR.

Changing gears to the grip-to-body attachment, is finger strength enough for everyone to seat that grip? One imagines some pipe wrench the size of Cleveland might be fashioned to generate more mechanical advantage...

- A

Click to expand...

I have gone that route, too. I would use the carabiner to tighten it down as shown by BR. Seems to work well for me.

Click to expand...

I believe ahsanford is talking about the thumbwheel attachment that connects the battery grip to the camera body.

UGH, misread the post. I just hand tighten and then try to remember to check the tightness every so often.

sunnyVan · Jul 8, 2016

I didn't read all the comments so forgive me if I'm repeating what others have said.

Putting on a high quality filter is a basic form of protection against abrasion. People talk about protecting the front element, but it also protects the rim around the front element. Theoretically a filter reduces light transmission to some tiny extent but it's a price worth paying. The only annoying thing about filter is that when you shoot towards the sun with a wideangle you need to take the filter off to reduce flare. High quality wideangle lenses are relatively flare resistant but you still get some flare. A filter usually accentuates the flare. Manufacturers claim that multiple layers of coatings help reduce flare but in my experience you're better off taking it off in bright situations. Better yet, notice the flare and block the ray of light with your hand.

Hoods offer better protection but I personally feel that they take up too much room in the already limited spaced camera bag.

There is no right or wrong in regards to protection filters. All a matter of personal preference. I don't use hoods. I don't use front caps. I put on filters and rear caps. I don't carry camera around my neck because I don't like it banging around. I clip my camera on my shoulder strap with capture pro.

nlrela said:
As most lenses are quite expensive I was wondering wether protection filter are worth to use.....

Actually I am more interested if the orginal Canon protection filters do decrease the picture quality
or will they have no influence ?
As mentioned lenses are quite expensive, but the Canon protection filters are quite cheap...

Random Orbits · Jul 8, 2016

Agree with the others. I tend to use it with LV handheld, magnify to confirm focus and then take a burst. Shift isn't too bad, but tilt is a pain without a tripod.

Mr. Milo · Jul 7, 2016

Re: Price Drops on Canon Cinema EOS C300 Mark II & C100 Mark II

jorgepzul said:
So there's no one betting on a new Major C100 ii firmware upgrade..? 4k paid firmware kind of.?

No.

justaCanonuser · Jul 7, 2016

After a break of about 5 years I returned to shoot film side by side with digital. Recently I took my EOS 3 with my 5D3 to Iceland and shot some rolls of Fujichrome Velvia, liked it much. I also got recently a Mamiya 6 set and explore that currently. Here I introduce another of my film cameras, it is a recently refurbished Kodak Retina IIIc from 1954 (my first camera, it was already quite vintage when I got it). It is a rangefinder, has a very good lens. But its viewfinder is tiny, yellowish, dark and the frames nearly faded away. So it is a bit hard to use but I love the challenge to shoot it in the street: it brings you back to the basics of watching, thinking, composing carefully. Plus: you can't chimp! Good results are gorgeous, my artist friends love those images in particular.

Ozarker · Jul 7, 2016

AvTvM said:
CanonFanBoy said:

...
Poor AvTvM: The only person I've seen on a board who could be given $1,000,000,000 and then complain about the paper cut he just gave himself... or the stupid Bureau of Engraving slapping out $100 bills.

Click to expand...

The way things are going, I might be complaining if I were offered 1 Million Pounds instead of 1 Million Euros ...

Admin US West · Jul 7, 2016

I've locked the topic because it becomes a Tony Norththrup bashing thread. The same for Ken Rockwell.

Every post or click just raises their Google position.

candyman · Jul 7, 2016

Changes:
Firmware Version 1.0.2 incorporates the following functional improvements and fixes.

1. Incorporates countermeasures for a phenomenon in which the bottom part of still images recorded to SanDisk CFast cards become corrupted.
2. Enhances communication reliability between the camera and CFast cards.

If you are using the affected CFast cards, after having updated the camera firmware to Firmware Version 1.0.2, please make sure to use the camera to format the CFast card.

The Version 1.0.2 firmware being released at this time is for cameras with Firmware Version 1.0.0. If the camera's firmware is already Version 1.0.2, it is not necessary to update the firmware.
When updating the firmware of your camera, please first go over the instructions thoroughly before you download the firmware.
The firmware update takes approximately six minutes.

<Cautions in the Use of SanDisk CFast Cards>
Please note that when using the SanDisk CFast cards listed below with the EOS-1D X Mark II, the bottom part of still photos may become corrupted.
Affected CFast Cards:
- SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 64GB (SDCFSP-064G-xxx)
- SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 128GB (SDCFSP-128G-xxx)
- SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 64GB (SDCFSP-064G-xxxA)
- SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 128GB (SDCFSP-128G-xxxA)
- SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 64GB (SDCFSP-064G-xxxB)
- SanDisk Extreme PRO CFast2.0 128GB (SDCFSP-128G-xxxB)
*The "xxx" at the end of the product number varies depending on the sales region.

RGF · Jul 7, 2016

With 5-6 screens of my menus options, I full use these.

Here are some of my setting

format
battery
Speedllite control
MLU
# bracketed shots

ISO speed settings (for auto ISO)
long ex noise reduction
High iso NR
GPS settings
Date/time

Image copy
LCD brightness
sensor cleaning
record function
custom shooting modes
Viewfinder display

As I get to screen 3 most of the setting are rarely used but easier to find them here than in the menu structure

Ozarker · Jul 6, 2016

tpatana said:
CanonFanBoy said:

Just like the 600EX-RT... had I not been injured and thrown out of work I'd have got fifteen of those suckers just because you can use fifteen at once. That's the only reason.

Click to expand...

Soo... like this, but longer?

http://neilvn.com/tangents/images/flash/gear/NV2_7880.jpg

Yeah, or a Syl Arena endorsed 2x4.

Ozarker · Jul 6, 2016

YuengLinger said:
Once you need a stand for your lights, you may as well carry real lights, like Einsteins. Speedlites are great in a pinch, but your output severely limits their usefulness (meaning you have to place them very close and getting over f/8 is a stretch), especially when a modifier is added into the mix. Yes, folks get creative, but why?

A good strobe includes the gift of a modeling light to help with shadows and hair highlights!

Yes, you can get beautiful portraits, you can get great fill light with speedlites, but what I'm saying is, don't invest in more speedlites if your intention is to use softboxes, booms, etc, because it isn't the light that is a pita to carry, but the stands and modifiers.

Do plenty of reading, Joe McNally, Syl Arena, Neil Van Niekerk, Lindsay Adler, etc, before you commit more bucks to speedlites. And don't get sucked into the idea of bunching speedlites--why would anybody do that except to promote speedlites? One good studio strobe costs less and works better than bunched speedlites!

Learn to do as much as you can with one light and an umbrella and a reflector. When you feel limited, make your next move. For your 600ex, an entry level umbrella from B&H is fine, and those are under $30 for good quality. (If possible, get one with fiberglass spines--they not only last longer, but they can cushion your speedlite better if your stand tips over.

You can also get a great Impact light stand from B&H for under $40, one that works fine with even large modifiers and studio strobe if you go that way in the future. They also sell the flash brackets, which are essential for being able to angle the light and hold your umbrella.

Cheers!

Completely agree with YuengLinger.

I have seven (7) Canon 600EX-RT and wish I had gone with 3 Flashpoint Streaklight 360ws strobes instead. Much more power and far more bang for the buck. It will work great in a 72 inch umbrella with a diffusior. Fantastic, in fact. I actually use the diffusion dome (accessory with the Steaklight) for the light going into the umbrella and the nylon diffusior for the Westcott 72" umbrella for the light being bounced back out. The setup gives a very pleasing soft light.

A single Canon Speedlite in a big umbrella like you mentioned is a no go. It just won't do the job properly. 43" is the biggest I go with a single Canon Speedlite and my subject (human) needs to be pretty close to the umbrella.

For product photography a frosted gel may be okay, but if I had everything to do over again I would go Flashpoint Streaklight from Adorama (Godox, Cheetah, etc. from other suppliers). It really is a fantastic product and now comes with Canon compatible built in radio receivers.

5D Mark III, EF 135 f/2L, Flashpoint Streaklight 360ws, Difussion Dome, 72"umbrella, Westcott Difussior made for the umbrella. Even with all the modifiers, the Streaklight did the job.

TommyLee · Jul 6, 2016

IglooEater said:
Wow, that's kind of major for an $8000 camera :-/ let us know how it pans out.

a mere...
$6000 ....
........if you add that wonderful 35L ii...i got.....now it is $8000...

////////

me I am ...backed out of the camera...for now... I will peek over the horizon...on and off..to see the bug reports...etc..
and maybe go 5D4.....

I wanted spot meter .. linked to focus point...
and lots of custom features....

....
and the camera really was great.. but I dont want to be keept awake at night ...with unresolved bugs...
with....my ... appliances.....
certainly not... burnt toast

that's all it is ..
a toaster that flings toast at 16 slices per second..
well thats great....unless they are all burned....
and then you cant even sell it used.....
and all the invested 'bread'... lost...
(can anyone remember...the 1D3-focus issue? ...)

I am fine for now.....
if Canon wants to finish testing the toaster..
if it is not too much trouble for them... in their spare time....
with the new CFast bread....

yawn....
we early adopters...have scars... but they ..heal....

arcer · Jul 6, 2016

tpatana said:
Nokia did similar few years ago, they had long-ish video ad about how great their camera is. One reflection on the video showed the actual big rig they used to shoot

It was the Nokia Lumia 920. I got that phone near its release and am still using it. (All money used on Photography, not on phones) They were trying to promote its OIS technology, which is actually quite good IRL for a camera phone. It started getting wonky after I fell my phone from the 2nd floor accidentally. Phone got a small chip but it took a big chunk of the concrete. Looks like the Nokia legend is true. 8)

neurorx · Jul 5, 2016

California....I asked about that and the Manager John couldn't offer it. They gave me a FedEx label to resend it but won't get there until Thurs or Friday. I'm not hopeful.

I couldn't beleive it when I opened the package.

I don't know now given the history of this if I would trust the lens and camera at this point.

The original issue was variable autofocus with this single lens. My other Lenses are tack sharp. I sent it to Canon and they returned and asked to check the lens and camera combo. They didn't test together and then were sending the two back and charged for the camera...camera was working perfectly. Quoted on their response but I got a 253
Bill that they said they waived. Today when the package arrived I tried both and weird click with the lens and then nothing.
Then the camera no lens will autofocus at all or engage the lens.
There was
Finger prints on the mirror and supposedly the camera was cleaned.

I'm shocked at the customer service.
I'm not sure I'll trust the camera
At this point as being reliable as the service has been lacking.

Longexposure · Jul 5, 2016

Hello guys and thank you again for your advice and experience.
I have decided to take the plunge and order one in cape town at a great price.
I will tell you how it went and post pictures.

A.

fentiger · Jul 5, 2016

another point where the 1D4 beats the 7D2 is price, i paid £1500 for my 2nd hand 1D4, which was about the same as a new 7D2, the 1D4 can now be had for £1300-£1400.
the 7D2 about £750 2nd hand now.

tq0cr5i · Jul 5, 2016

The EOS 5DS and 5DS R launched nearly 17 months and have no public update firmware. So the cameras’ firmware may be “absolute perfection” or Canon has a big burst releasing a “V2”!

Posts

Posts

Attachments

Attachments

Attachments

Filter

Forum statistics

Gallery statistics