johnf3f said:

quod said:

atkinsonphoto said:

Thanks for the clarification. Do you agree that long lenses are good for landscapes too?

Click to expand...

Yes. You will get compression and a narrow field of view, which can be useful in some shots. All of my gigapans are shot with telephotos.

Click to expand...

A friend of mine does the bulk of his landscape work with a Canon 24-105 F4 (he has just added a 16-35 F4) and, in my opinion his best work, with a Canon 600 F4 L IS. Personally I use the 16-35, 24-70 and 800mm focal lengths for my landscapes (plus, occasionally, 300mm) so without knowing the OP's exact needs it is difficult to make specific recommendations - other than the fact that the long lenses tend to get heavy!
I do really fancy a 24 TSE however!

Click to expand...

I also use the 24-70/2.8II and 16-35/4 (because 24mm wasn't enough) for landscapes when depht of view is required to put foreground and background in focus but, when compression is required nothing beats a good telephoto lens.
If you plan to stitch photos simply go to the TSE 24II, which is the best at this FL.

I tried to find pressure/depth rating for that gizmo, but could not find it. I would be surprised if it is rated more than 10'/3m. This may be OK for shallow snorkeling, but nothing else. Light loss at those depths is trivial.

For SCUBA underwater, you want at the very least 100'/30m, better 200'/60m. Those housings are MUCH more sturdy. Not up on it anymore, but had Hugystrobe back in the day for OM4 and Pentax LX in housing. I also agree that you need MUCH more power underwater, more on par with a studio strobe than a Canon flash. Many UW strobes also have modeling lights built-in, very useful for macro at depth.

I used TTL flash no problems back then. Just do the exposure compensation as needed. Having access to controls of the flash underwater is certainly advantageous.

This is one area where Sony judged the market correctly. They plan to sell them for many new uses, they want to put them in everything from toasters to automobiles. They expect to have several in a typical car, not just a backup camera, already there are side cameras as well.

When combined with smart electronics and smart phones, hackers will have a field day, they will hack into cameras in appliances all over your house, surveillance cameras, lots of them.

Early reviews of the new 24mp sensor show about a 1/3 stop improvement with slightly less red noise. Don't forget that different RAW processing software and noise reduction might be just as beneficial.

Re: Possible Issue With T6s & T6i Sensors?

YuengLinger said:

neuroanatomist said:

Tugela said:

Canon make money by selling old tech and cost cutting, then telling customers (very successfully) that that is what they really want.

Sometimes the shortcuts come back to bite them on the ass though, at it appears that this is one of those times. It is a bit of the marketing veneer peeled off so that you can see what you are really getting.

Click to expand...

How does Nikon make money? Speaking of being bitten on the ass, do you think the government of the world's most populous nation is likely to ban sale of the Canon 750D in their country?

Click to expand...

They'll consider it, neuro, based on their track record.

Click to expand...

There is a huge difference here....

The Nikon action was to deny, deny, deny.....

The Canon action was to exchange for a new unit....

China acted to protect it's consumers from a faulty Nikon product. If the Canon reaction is to say, "yes, there is a problem, we are trying to figure out how widespread it is, exchange it for a new one", no consumer protection is needed.

Interesting review. Mt Spokane, closing aperture and using short shutter reduces severely underexposed image and you will see odd color effects in severely underexposed regions, which have a poor signal-to-noise ratio.

Cutting down light, and exposing longer is completely different. In the old film days, long exposures had associated color shifts to be corrected with CC filters. That is not the case in digital anymore, as seen in astro-photography (also longer exposure at dim light, just no filter). There may be some minute effects, but nothing like on the B&W filters. Those are clear non-neutral-grey filters.

Breakthrough just went on my "to watch" list. Don't have any immediate needs, but will consider them for my next filter.

Lots of bandwidth wasted here on whats better and such. Truth is we know the Eos-M is an inferior product spec wise to the sony a6000's AF speed and shooting speed, while the Sony A7 is a full frame camera so forget about apples to apple. Both Sony's are very good products and compelling to see thats where Sony puts much effort. But they use a proprietary flash mount (as does canon but canon is much wider supported, ask profoto ;D) and have limited accessories.

I prefer/am used to the EOS menu system.. to the point where even Rebels annoy me.. So I'm glad there's a mini EOS out there that I can just plug in my 5D's flash accessories to and roll like a pro.

As far as the mini flash, hey it bends upward to bounce... don't discount that in a pinch. Point it upward while holding a folding reflector over your head at a 45 deg angle and you have yourself a 20" round light source illuminating your subject. Also, add one fo these to your built in flash and now you have a filtered flash system for indoor fill flash:

http://stickyfi.startlogic.com/index.html

I go it because of the evf, focus peaking, EOS platform, articulate touch screen, all for less than the price of a Rebel!!!! And this is a bad deal? Are you kidding me!?!?!?!

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Lens rentals has their fancy tested that tests lenses sans bodies so you get to the actual results. The machine might have been too busy, or maybe it has issues.

As lens testers always say, you cannot compare lenses tested across systems, its apples and oranges.

Click to expand...

It seem they are not yet equipped for that.

For those who are curious, we can't test Sony E mount lenses on an optical bench because the electromagnetic focus system requires electrical power to operate. Until we do some really geeky, overly complex engineering modifications, the optical bench isn't an option for Sony E mount lenses.

Click to expand...

Tugela said:

The sensors likely didn't have the flecks when they went through QC (or it would have been picked up at that stage), and they developed later as the sensor aged. Probably as a result of crystallization or phase separation in the materials used to construct the sensor. If that is the case you cannot trust any of these cameras from that production run even if your camera does not currently show the problem since it may manifest itself at a later date.

Click to expand...

If that is true, Roger from LensRentals should see spots developing in time on the ones he didn't send back to Canon. He has a large enough sample.

can0nfan2379 said:

dilbert said:

Viggo said:

I like Canon the best when they go all in, no compromise, just as awesome as possible. If they make a 50 f1.2 L II the size of the 70-200 II to make it epic sharp into the corners and extremely well corrected, I'll be first in line. Same with the 35 L II, it can be bigger than the 85 L II if it's superb optically and killer AF.

Click to expand...

Wow! Someone that values sharpness corner to corner over magic bokeh and creamy images that comes from lack of image detail in the corners. Wonders will never cease here on CR.

Click to expand...

I don't think the two parameters (creamy bokeh & sharpness) are mutually exclusive.........my 135 APO is blisteringly sharp and has creamy bokeh at the same time.

Click to expand...

+1, I own the 200 f2 and it has the best bokeh, and the sharpness wide open is the best I have ever seen. Zero distortion and no aberations that my colorblind self can see.

I've also been waiting for a 54MP D4x for quite a while...

I will not suger quote this: They are taking us for idiots.

machx0r said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I've seen one post by a person who was told that the service department was waiting for a "Data Sheet" from Canon. He thought this meant firmware. Even if firmware is in development, it will be months. A relatively few have issues.

Click to expand...

Here's that post: http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=25370.msg513966;topicseen#new

Danzq did say:

I asked if it was a new firmware and they said that it in fact is a new firmware and it should come in early next week.

Click to expand...

That said a customer service rep might be privy to a desired release date but until the firmware is actually released they don't really know. There are a myriad of reasons that a release would be delayed.

Long story short "we" haven't officially heard anything about a release on a given date so I wouldn't hold my breath. My camera is scheduled to be returned from warranty service soon so I'm excited to see what they did and if there are improvements. If you are also having issues you might want to send yours in as well.

Click to expand...

I think there was something lost in translation.

The service department uses special firmware for testing and adjusting cameras. This is different from the firmware that operates the camera for the user. The data sheet could merely be a updated data table used in the firmware. That might fix a AF adjustment issue. The firmware contains a data table for every Canon EF lens and tells the camera what settings are allowed and even modifies exposures if required.

This is part of the issue that makes it so difficult for third party lenses, they tell the camera that a EF lens is actually attached, and then must live with the internal settings in the data table. That table can be and likely is different for each camera model.

I do know that one of the rental outfits has available "damage insurance" to cover just about anything that could go wrong.

The main suggestion about renting that 100-400II is that would allow you to leave the other similar lenses at home and maybe bring something else or two, that's all.

Have a nice trip

It is possible to use astro-cameras (mono-CCDs) with canon lenses,

upside: hyper sensitive mono sensor with no debayering fuzzifying and no anti-alias filter that works with L-glass.
downside: no AF, no viewfinder, must use teathered computer or similar to focus and control exposure, plus maximum image speed is very very slow. I have a 383L+ and it's limited to about a second but will take shots as long as you like, my longest single frame to date is 30 minutes.

With something like a ND10 filter it could be very interesting for landscape work.

Removing the Bayer matrix from a DSLR will remove microlenses too reducing sensitivity, but has been done. IRIS by Christian Buil would process a true mono frame into a TIFF or JPEG for photoshop editing and can drive a teathered Canon DSLR, there are other programs too.

Every time I bring the mini (Sony RX-100 III) I regret not bringing a big (5DIII) or bigger (1DX) gun. So when the 1DX-II is out (hopefully with the entire wish list fulfilled) I'll settle for that, maybe augmented with a 5DIV or 5DV.

Next on my wish list are just lenses. 600mm f4 DO, with equivalent IQ to the 400 f4 DO II, would be nice. Built in 1.4x extender would be even nicer.

Updated 24/1.4, 35/1.4, 50/1.2, 85/1.2, 135/2.0, with Zeiss competing IQ and fast accurate AF and IS would probably be pre-ordered on release date and the rumored TS-E Macro lens would also be hard to walk by.

I'll invite you all to the garage sale if it happens …

sunnyVan said:

dcm said:

bainsybike said:

dcm said:

...

That's a bit harder for people like me with Presbyopia. My visual near-point is beyond arms length ;-) Progressive lenses correct it somewhat, but not quite that close. The Canon EVF with diopter adjustment works great in my case.

Click to expand...

In your case, of course, I'm happy for you to use a viewfinder.

Actually I prefer a viewfinder myself, and before I bought the M all my cameras had one. But now that I have the M I find using the screen much less of a handicap than I expected. I think it's largely a matter of practice.

Click to expand...

I made the transition from viewfinder to screen with I moved from a G series to S series. The M was an improvement over the S series for me, even if not as pocketable.

I've been using the flip screen on the M3 at 90 degrees to shoot waste level and like this setup. Just wish I could change the BBF button to Mfn. Think I might like that with the EVF as well. Actually makes some sense to have the focus button next to the shutter button.

Click to expand...

You can program the exposure lock button to become focus lock button. Focus with thumb and shoot with index finger.

Click to expand...

That's the way I currently use it. I find the exposure lock button placement a bit awkward to hit/find sometimes, like when shooting waste level or with EVF.

one of mine did this out of the blue at a shoot yesterday

AlanF said:

mb66energy said:

[...]

With a 5D classic I see losses of detail from f/8 on while doing macro shots at 1:3 (I think it
is actually comparable to f/11). From that I extrapolate that the 5Ds can be used at a
max aperture of f/5.6 to use the lenses capabilities in similar situations. The lens used was
the near ideal EF 2.8 100mm Macro (non-L).
To use the full potential of the 5Ds you need stacking at least for macro but I think it will
be necessary for landscape and architecture as well.

Click to expand...

Is that a valid extrapolation? Go to the slrgear site where they measure IQ at different apertures for both full frame and crop. For all the good lenses, there is minimal diffraction degradation at f/8, a tiny amount at f/11, and then more significant at f/16. It is exactly the same for FF and the 7D with 5Ds size pixels.

Click to expand...

I think it is a valid extrapolation. Look at the plot of the resolution @ photozone
http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/508-zeiss100f2eosff?start=1
http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/847-canon35f2isff?start=1
http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/430-canon_135_2_5d?start=1
and
http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/489-canon_100_28_5d?start=1
The sharpness loss with higher f-numbers is less dramatic if you take the suppressed zero into account.

or compare the 2.8 100 L macro @ f/4 and f/16 with the 7D ii (you are right to use that camera as a good extrapolation basis for 5Ds):
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=674&Camera=963&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=2&LensComp=674&CameraComp=963&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=6

Less pronounced with the 1Ds iii:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=674&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=2&LensComp=674&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=6


With very good lenses you can spot the decrease of center sharpness from f/4 on on a 20 MPix sensor consistently (in the graphs of photozone). The corner quality increases usually while closing one or two f-stops due to the minimization of lens errors.
With better sensors you will get more detailed images but if you stop down to f/16 you will loose a lot of this gain and I think it will start with f/5.6 or f/8 if "detailedness" is a strong concern.

And never underestimate the sensitivity of our eye-brain system which detects a 5% or 10% loss in detail easily - I do it very often too

But I am open to update my understanding while the new data is coming in!

If this is a dental issue you deal with, message me and I'll try to help you.

Thanks, and isn't that what the Internet is all about?

distant.star said:

Well, I hope that made you feel better.

Marsu42 said:

Answer ... if someone trolls himself, i.e. boldly argues that everybody not having his opinion lacks physics knowledge, it is perfectly alright not to address such a weird post directly - esp. if the poster obviously lacks said knowledge himself, stating that you don't need high dr on iso 100 because there's plenty of light (sic).

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

FW to retract the focus group on power-down would be handy

It would be handy if there were a firmware feature in the Canon bodies that allowed an option so that when the camera was switched off, lenses that are focussed by wire (the 85L, the 40mm 2.8 etc) would be automatically focussed back to their retracted state.

It would be akin to the option to have the sensor perform it's self-cleaning process when power switch is turned to off.

Not a big deal, but would be a thoughtful little feature to have.


d.

The sensor is Canon with 1.6 crop factor. I believe its the same used in the 750D760D.

The crop factor is determined by the image sensor size. The M, M3 and other Canon APS products use a sensor size of 22.3mm x 14.9mm. Nikon DX and Sony use a slightly larger sensor around 23.5mm x 15.6mm.