Hi dear friends
Some images from Jess & Tom engagement
Full story on the blog
http://www.isaacimage.com/toronto-blue-jays-engagement-jess-and-tom/
Please enjoy

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Full story on the blog
http://www.isaacimage.com/toronto-blue-jays-engagement-jess-and-tom/

Re: Engagement/Pre wedding images

Few more over the last few years. Most in and around Lake district, Cumbria, UK

Chris & Ailsa Pre Wedding Shoot by Tom Scott, on Flickr

Chris & Ailsa Pre Wedding Shoot by Tom Scott, on Flickr

Stephen and Nichola Pre Wedding Shoot by Tom Scott, on Flickr

Mark & Bridgette Pre Wedding Shoot by Tom Scott, on Flickr

Pre Wedding Shoot, Ullswater by Tom Scott, on Flickr

Pre Wedding Shoot, Ullswater by Tom Scott, on Flickr

Pookie said:

Not surprising at all... you have a 100ws max light in a huge mod (dropping anywhere from 1-2 stops using that alone). Most speedlites rank around 60-75ws in strength if you could convert into ws.

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Yes, but the speedlite is in the same modifier, so I would have expected it to be half the amount of light of the elinchrom. Though you might have a point that the elinchrom modifier stops more light as it is more opaque and gives even more diffused light.

They sound good, but

Hoya HD3 filters were developed in conjunction with Kenko Tokina USA, Inc. and intended solely for U.S. distribution.

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Surely, they would be available elsewhere too?!

I can only presume the release is not as accurate as it should be.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

RGF said:

what are the dimensions of 1" sensor? Assuming a 2x3 axial ratio I get 0.55" x 0.83" or 14 x 21 mm.

Is that correct?

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Its a oddball computation, and hardly related to 1 inch.

Wikipedia has a table of dimensions and the history of how they came to be so bollixed up.

They list the Sony 1 inch sensor as being 13.20 X 8.8mm. However, a camera may not use all of the photosites in a sensor, so that can throw off any assumptions.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format

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I'd assume the dimensions we both mentioned (Sony's?) are too great for this lens to make use of and smaller sizes do indeed get the 1" branding... I've not clicked back to check but I'm pretty sure the patent suggested the projected image's height was no more than 8mm!

To hendrik-sg

Firstly the 7D/7D2 will not give more focal length than a 1DX, it will merely give a narrower field of view through the viewfinder and reproduce a smaller part of the area that the lens covers. Additionally the image will need to be enlarged more for printing etc.
The advantage of cameras like the Canon 7D (APSC) series is that they have higher pixel density (or more pixels on target as some say). If, for example, we take the 1DX and 7D they have effectively the same number of pixels but the sensor of the 1DX is about 2.6 times the area so the "Pixel Density" is far lower. In theory this should mean less detail is resolved, in practice it sometimes does - but only by a small margin. The larger (less populated) sensor of the 1DX (and similar cameras) allows the use of far larger pixels which resolve proportionately more detail and have a far wider effective ISO range. The net result is that I may loose some reach compared to a 7D2 (not 7D Mk1) but I gain IQ and versatility.
Having used or owned a number of the Canon APSC cameras (though I have not tested the 7D2 very extensively) I much prefer their full frame cameras for wildlife work. Attaced is an example of a Bittern I photographed last year and a crop of the same image. Please note these are unaltered RAW files just converted to JPEG and scaled for the web - there is no processing/sharpening in PP. As a side note I am not absolutely certain that I would have got this image with another camera as the speed and responsiveness of the 1DX was barely enough - I don't even use IS anymore as it slows things down too much!

ElmerFudd said:

Boromir883 said:

ElmerFudd said:

Boromir883 said:

Did you own the 100-400 Mk I ? If so, how would you describe diffrences in perfomance, shooting motorsports?
I hate IQ of my 100-400 Mk I on 7D and love it on the 1Dx

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Yes, I did. There is no comparison at all. I guess my copy was not one of the best Mk Is. I used it on 50D and 5D Mk III and it was better on FF, but Mk II is in its own league. Short MFD makes it very useful for other uses when there are other things to shoot than motorsports .

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i am looking for an upgrade for my old 100-400mm.
In some cases my 400mm/2,8 IS is to bulky to carry around.
The Sigma 150-600mm Sports is heavy too, and i had the feeling, the AF - of that lens, i could use for a short time - was to slow for fast action.

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I was surprised to see it in the hands of pro shooters. Of course they still had a 300 f2.8 or something bigger on the other camera but I never saw Mk I being used by the pros. I don't know about the 200-400 but this is really good and comparatively cheap . The AF works really well (used it on 5D mk III) and the colors and contrast are great.

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Interestingly on the park ferm interviews a guy in the background was using a 100-400mk1, he was pushing and pulling the zoom and I though to myself, he needs a Mk2...haha

(I guess you mean the mk1 100-400)

I've been putting it off for ages but just ordered a 100-400mk2 and the x1.4iii (for my 5d3), sick of lack of sharpness with my 70-200mk2 and the x2 iii, the 70-200 will stay with me as its an awesome portrait and fast action lens with beautiful bokeh, I do love it but think its time for the 100-400 to take a place in my kit bag

GREAT Pics btw, shame Val got held up by the Ducs and could not match the pace of JL and MM.

Your pics have cost me a few quid, thanks ;D : 8)

You should contact the rental house. The camera or the lens has a issue.

Tugela said:

The Digic 7 will be the still version of the Digic DV6 processors found in the XC10 and C300M3. It implies that the new cameras will shoot 4K at 300mbps data rates.

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I wonder if you need digic 7 to do the dual ISO that the mk ii is due to get...

If digic follow other processors, then it will be a smaller fab (canon don't make them), and therefore hopefully lower power but faster speed. And if they're multi core or two of them, anyone know if they have the ability to switch off chips or cores when not in use?

B&H only. Tried Marumi for my cheap sig 18-250, was OK for wide angles, but definitely affected IQ at longer FL, so I replaced that one with a B&W. $65 filter for a $250 lens, but what are you going to do.

Haven't tried the better Hoya's, I'd expect them to be as good as B&W.

All filters will polarize just fine. The differences are going to be in flare control and how flat and parallel the glass surfaces are. The latter is not so important at wide angles, but becomes more and more so at longer FL.

To the A7rII users if you haven't seen this post on FM about ways to avoid 12 bit mode

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1379163

may be of use...

I bought a D800 to use for low light event photography after falling for the hype. High ISO and DR sucks when you get to ISO 800 or higher. My 5D MK III and even my 1D MK IV were better at ISO 12,800.

DXO rates their sensors at ISO 100, so if you can stick to that for events, then its nice (except for the rather high CA's on the edges of the 24-70mm G).

Thanks for sharing.

1st post here. I am a long time "lurker" and have read many threads on this site for information/advice.

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I found this while researching debris issues with the 1DX.

After saving for quite awhile, I finally took the plunge and bought one of these with he bundle deal that was advertised on the CR site last week. I can't tell you how excited I was to have one of these to call my own!

I received it on Friday afternoon and took it out to shoot on Saturday. The very first time I pressed the shutter (high speed mode) several black particles appeared in the OVF. The more that I used it, the more particles appeared.

Upon review of the images, there is visible sensor trash at f/6.3! So I tried f/22. I could not believe the results. Less than 400 actuations and a dirtier sensor than I experienced in the three years that I have owned the 5DIII.

Here is where I screwed up...I tired to clean it. The sensor had a combination of oil and black particulate "chips" on it. I used "air rocket" and the sensor brush that I have used on the 5DIII. I think I got the sensor reasonably clean. I turned my attention to the focusing screen...I lightly blew air on it and gently brushed it with the sensor brush...there must have been some particulate from the sensor on the brush and I scratched the focus screen.

The camera is now on the way to CPS for service. I should have never attempted to clean this thing. After reading some of the experiences posted here and other places with debris problems similar to this one, I just hope it gets fixed correctly the first time around....fingers are crossed!

I know that there are so many people that have had (and continue to have) great experiences with this camera. I really wish I could say that mine was one of them right out of the gate...

wickidwombat said:

Any tips on where to get gel sets for this thing standard cto etc?

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I got a couple of these filter packs early on -- they are the exact size needed and fit inside the reflector diffuser that comes with the 360. I now just cut my own from large gels sheets, though.

privatebydesign said:

I was just traveling with a New York based photographer who bought a D810 in Iceland when he was shooting there, he got it because he couldn't get one in the USA at the time. Well he needed to get work done on it after a while and Nikon USA were very reluctant to work on it, they did in the end but he had to produce not only the original receipt from the Icelandic shop, but also a copy of the page in his passport with the Icelandic visa in it with the dates he was there.

As for the different country based companies billing each other, I believe Canon USA is a wholly owned subsidiary of Canon Japan who would pick up the bill for any warranty work anyway, I suspect that is also true of Nikon USA/Japan, so any disallowing of genuine products (by any multinational) is purely an 'internal' cost cutting measure.

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Nikon and Canon have different organizational / financial structures. Canon USA does not provide officially a warranty for gray market purchases, but fixes them anyway as long as you have a sales receipt.

You have to be very careful about used equipment or you may find that it can't be repaired, because its gray market.

RustyTheGeek said:

You guys do realize that this thread is 3 YEARS OLD, right? :

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Not until now : but it's always fun hearing from the experts on flash

RGF said:

Not to be contentious, but what does fully silent mode mean? Below what DB level? What is the DB level of the 5D M3 and 1Dx?

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1. The level of less than a whisper. Dialogue thats a whisper needs to be picked up by mics but when whispers are that low the mics have to be up and they pick up shutter sounds.
2. I'm not sure what the db level is of the 5dmkiii or 1dx but its got that canon loudness (which i love honestly, i like knowing im taking a picture in most situations).

This reduces the shutter 90% but its bulky and tough to access the controls quickly and thats key
https://aquatech.net/product/scout-5d-sound-blimp/

meywd said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

BigAntTVProductions said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

BigAntTVProductions said:

why are u always bashing the 7D2

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Why do you think its bashing it to note that Canon is asking more for a refurbished camera than a new one?

You are wanting to read something into this that's not there. I think its a great camera.

The original price was too high in todays market, but it has come down toward something reasonable. That's always the case for new products.

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you bash the camera on other post always trying too find flaws in it or shortcomings

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You must be thinking of someone else. Other than the price, I don't recall finding any flaws or bashing it. Its only a camera, and I expect to buy one when the price drops below $1000.

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that would be an amazing price

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They are selling gray market for $1150 now, and since the Chinese devalued their currencywhile the dollar is getting stronger relative to other currency, they can be had for less, which might drop prices more. Prices typically drop in the August to October time frame, and there are lots of black Friday deals.

I think that prices this fall will be amazing.

I am about to buy a Godox Witstro AD360 flash, but I can't decide yet. The problem is that I have read that the Godox Cells II-C trigger does not support Canon EOS 6D, and therefore I don't know how I will get my Canon 6D to work with the AD360 if I am going to shoot HSS

Anyone who have tried the AD360 flash with a Canon 6D. And what did you do to get the HSS to work, what setup?

twagn said:

Adorama has for the most part treated me fine as long as I made purchases. Returns are a different story. Case in point recently 08-2015

Item returned to Adorama, all return polices adhered to....no communication...no refund..three telephone calls, one e-mail..no refund...still no return communication....

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I was deeply concerned to read that this was your experience, and firstly would like to offer a deep and sincere apology for the frustration caused.
If you have a moment to email me directly: [email protected], with the order number plus return tracking details, I shall be delighted to check into this right away.

Once again my apologies, and I very much look forward to hearing from you.

Here are a few examples from me. I have been on a world trip for 10 months and shot over 15,000 frames with the G1X Mark II. I love this camera and how functional it is. It is quick and easy to adjust on the fly and produces high quality shots. I have used it in all conditions and have found it very capable. Partner it with a Manfrotto Befree tripod and nothing can stop you The shots have been enhanced via Lightroom and one panoramic stitched together but don't let that detract from the capabilities of the camera.

Cheers

Tim

3kramd5 said:

When the FE lenses get here next week I'm eager to try peeking. With my canon glass is laughably bad. I hope it's useable with native glass.

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If by "peeking" you're referring to manual focusing with "focus peaking," my experience is that it's best used in conjunction with magnification. My success rate using peaking by itself is pretty high if the subject is close and falls as it gets farther away; beyond a certain point I find it so unreliable as to be useless. Used in conjunction with magnification, however, the results are always dead-on accurate (unless I screw something up) regardless of distance, better than AF, including with Canon lenses (though MF is easier with lenses designed for MF; not only is the throw short on AF lenses, on some Canons - the 50mm 1.4 is perhaps the worst of those I've tried - the focus ring won't stay put if you remove your grip on it, which makes the process even more unreliable). I've not tried manually focusing my two FE lenses, though, so perhaps what I've just written won't apply to them - but it might: I've read complaints about the usefulness of Sony's focus peaking used by itself vs Olympus's (I've not tried the latter - my OM-D Em5 is too old).