Dylan777 said:

I have been doing quite a bit of homeworks on studio light Vs Speedlites. After getting ton of WONDERFULL advices & feedbacks from CR members, I decided to go with Speedlites.

I recently got this package for $1650:
1. Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT, QTY: 3
2. Canon ST-E3-RT Transmitter, QTY:1
3. Some Westcott umbrellas & softboxes

I also bought this Westscott combo: Triple Threat Real Deal Review

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Dear Dylan777,

The Canon Speedlite (3x) and transmitter setup you described above may be exactly what I've been looking for. Would you please share the name of the firm you purchase this from? I realize the deal maybe over at this point, but it'll give me a place to start looking. Other package deals I've seen contain only two speedlites and I really need a third. Of course, depending upon the price I could just buy the third speedlite. But you also mentioned the company you bought from included some light stands in the deal and I will need those as well.

Vivid

PS: if anyone else knows of similar Canon two- or three-speedlite plus trigger deals, please let me know. Of course, I will continue to monitor this and the CPW site for such deals.

Yes, I have the old version Sandisk Extreme Pro (90Mb/s) 16Gb in it now and it works just fine. It's nothing wrong with the new card either since it's working in my 5DmkII. I can't figure out what the problem is

eml58 said:

it was chewed beyond help by a Large Angry Lion

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If I ever have another camera insurance claim that's the excuse I'd love to use ;D

I haven't heard of the problem the OP described. I hope the replacement body is ok

interested to read about any cheap but powerful led lights you see there, maybe Alzo has their new offerings? stills or cinema it's about lighting the subject and telling the story

Albi86 said:

Another trick that I use is to half-press the shutter button 3-5 times so the lens has more chances to settle on the correct focus.

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The accepted method is to set the lens to infinity (or MFD if subject is far away) and then do a AF. It should be done before every test point. Focal does this for you, but you can do it manually. By starting from infinity or mfd each time, the results are more consistent.

If the lens and camera is fine, af will not change when you hit the AF button multiple times. If you have to do that to get a goof AF, something is wrong.

In all the discussions and examples I've seen, optical magnification is always superior. What it may not be is inexpensive or conveniant.

Don Haines said:

Aichbus said:

I don't need to have experience with that particular lens and any 2x extender. I don't need to bother with the question wether that will focus or not. I can tell from what has been said about the quality of the bare lens at 600 mm that putting a 2x extender on it doesn't make any sense, except maybe for shooting video.

There are few lenses where a 2x Extender makes sense at all. Without any extender, those have to outperform the camera sensor. From what I hear, the Tamron 150-600 doesn't do that at 600 mm. So with a 2x extender you are basically magnifying the image, but won't record any additional information.

And by losing 2 stops, you probably will add some motion blur to the image.

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The first time I tried teleconverters on the 150-600 was today to see if they would focus. Although the will focus SLOWLY in "live view", the degradation of the images is such that you can resolve more detail without them. In short, I agree with Aichbus in that it does not make any sense.

If you are going to use a teleconverter, you need a VERY sharp lens. Even a 70-200 degrades with a 2X teleconverter.... you need a $5000+ "big white" to get any real value from them.....

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+1

This video explains DO principles pretty good.
http://www.canon.com/v-square/movie.html?id=t005

smozes said:

Anyone cares to post their experience in this workshop? Do people get to shoot using their camera with guidance or just watch the instructors? How much of it is hands on?

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First day is just presentations and basic instruction. Day-long workshops are hands-on. First portion is demonstration by instructor, afternoon devoted to shooting. In the flash workshop they set up lights and bring in models. We had three stations set up. A couple with optical triggering at least one with RT.

Okay. You get a chance to shoot some professional models (All in General Audience poses). It has a bit of a cattle call feel to it, but you do get some shots you can use in a portfolio.

HOWEVER, Canon has changed instructors for this year and at last year's event the instructor said they were changing the format somewhat. I don't know what it is like this year. Maybe they just changed instructors.

This type of stair-stepped "rebate" is very common for the Canon refurb store. Generally, they raise the prices a bit from where they were before the rebate was put in place. The best deals come on products that just exceed the price thresholds but not by much, and depend on what the starting price is.

I don't know about the timing of it, if they usually do it at the same time as rebates on new gear or not. I don't think there is a pattern.

CANONisOK said:

dstppy said:

New 5D and 7D should be out today.

I just bought a 5Dmk3.

You're welcome

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All sarcasm aside, you will not regret it one bit. A fantastic all-purpose camera. And presumably you're getting it while the price is much lower than it has been since launch.

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No, I do like it. Finally can use my Tamron 24-70 MFAd in both directions.

Have a 5Dmk2, 7D and a 60D, so it wasn't so much of an upgrade as a consolidation.

Leejo said:

Would be an idea for the Magic Lantern development - if one could identify where everything was saved...

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Yah, that's what got me thinking about it. The rule of thumb is to reset your camera to default settings before installing ML, so I was hoping I could offload my settings somewhere first.

Hi,

I would love for you all to check out a short I just finished last week and entered into the My Rode Reel film competition. The only rule for the film was it had to be less than 5 minutes.

Please check it out and if you'd be so kind give me a vote ;-)

http://www.rodemic.com/myrodereel/watch/602

Jason Montalvo

Primes is my thing, zooms are cool but not my cup of glasses.

Canon got a 14 f2.8 and a 24 f1.4 they are primes so we have it, just cant zoom it in between, sooner or latter canon would bring that lens out either way, canon rules when it comes to lenses. Period.

I'm just getting used to a new 5D3. During manual focus in automatic AF point selection mode, the center point is the only one that will confirm focus. The instruction manual indicates that's normal. Is this the end of the story, or is there any way to use all 61 glorious AF points to assist manual focus? This behavior strikes me as strange, since most other bodies put all AF points to use in the same scenario, and the 5D3 has such a robust AF system otherwise. Any thoughts or tips? Thanks!

Thank you everyone for the help and advice!

My hood on the 24-70 Mk II is pretty loose too... Bit of a design flaw

One more thing..
My camera (100D) doesn't have lens correction for this lens.. confused as to why its doing that. It's not a new lens/old camera combo.

Go to the nightlies section in the ML forum, select the matching platform and download.

The Red will end up costing you more because of all the accessories you have to buy. BM is amazing at marketing, but their cameras are always half finished and have so many technical issues. Also, the new BM 4K needs a lot of light. Canon and Sony are really your only choices, at the moment.

If you really want 4K - look at the Sony FS700. It's affordable and does fast frame rates.

Also, do you have a lot of clients asking for 4K? I don't.

neuroanatomist said:

weixing said:

The funny part is that DPReview said that "Nikon’s 800mm F5.6 FL ED VR and 400mm F2.8 FL ED VR lenses earn the 'FL' in their names from the coating of fluorine applied to the lens elements."

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Fluorine, fluorite…what's a calcium ion among friends. Actually, the 'fluorine coating' is a clever bit of marketing-speak…fluorine is a highly toxic element that's gaseous under standard conditions, so the 'fluorine coating' certainly isn't just fluorine. It's most likely a polymer of fluorine and carbon…but neither Canon nor Nikon want to say they're using fluorocarbons as lens coatings…

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Can't say I blame them. Consumers are easily swayed by words and phrases to which they have a predisposition. Note how almost everyone drops the "RP" from "CFRP" because everyone likes Carbon Fiber but nobody likes (Reinforced) Plastic.

Yes, it's 29.97fps. It was the 5D II that was originally 30fps until the a firmware update corrected that to 29.97.

Hi Folks.
From someone who found out the hard way (a long time ago on an old radio) that Philips and Pozidrive are not the only cross head screw standards get a set of JIC screwdrivers!
Only thought on nail polish vs loctite, nail polish is a cosmetic treatment, loctite is an engineering adhesive made for this type of application, either remove the screw completely apply by touching the screw thread to a drip of loctite on a surface such as a bit of masking tape, or dip a cocktail stick in to the same drip and apply to loosened screw.
I always prefer to apply to the thread not under or on the head, but that may be sufficient for this application.
If you are going to remove the screw completely do it with the lens stood on its end so that if the mount has shims under the screws they won't slide out!

Cheers Graham.

dgatwood said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

When you tighten the screws, be sure to use the right screwdriver, those heads are not Phillips, and can be messed up with a Phillips. You can't tighten it properly with a Phillips, since the bit slips.

Get a JIS screwdricer (Japan Industrial Standard). Then, you can torque it down properly, and a little locktite works great. Don't use nail polish.

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*shrugs* Nail polish works better for people who aren't used to applying the stuff, because it starts out thicker than Loctite, and therefore is less likely to drip where it shouldn't. Like on your lens glass.

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edwyun said:

I appreciate the fact that EOS cameras and lenses are merely dust and weather resistance as opposed to dust and weather proof. In situations where fine dust does get into the equipment, how can you tell if Canon USA will honor their warranty? I will probably pay to get it cleaned but what is the threshold for warranty or non-warranty?

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Does the Canon warranty even address dust/water entering the system?

From their warranty webpage http://www.usa.canon.com/app/pdf/support/warranty/warranty_EOS_digital_camera.pdf

"This limited warranty covers all defects encountered in normal use of the Product, and does not apply in
the following cases:

...water damage... will be presumed to have resulted from misuse, abuse or failure to operate the
Product as set forth in the operating instructions".

The word dust does not appear in the warranty nor does the word weather. I am not confident that Canon will recognize dust entering the system as a warranty covered item.