StudentOfLight said:

I've heard of a pellicle (pelican) mirror but haven't read up about it, so thanks for the feedback.

My thoughts were that if an image sensor was used then it could do RGB metering as well (instead of having a separate metering sensor on top of the pentaprism) thereby freeing up space for a Wifi or Radio module. However, as you say since the sensitivity/precision is not on par it with traditional PDAF there is no justification. No one would want to compromise AF performance unnecessarily.

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I think it will be a good while before we see focal-plane AF systems comparing to dedicated AF systems. Right now, in the case of Canon's DPAF, they basically turned the whole sensor into one giant line sensor. That's about as advanced as Canon's first AF sensor back in the 80's, which was also a single strip line sensor. Were going to need to see DPAF evolve into QPAF, where the sensor can be read twice, once for a horizontal line sensor and once again for a vertical line sensor (now were up to the late 80's/early 90's); beyond that were going to have to see advancements that bring us multi-orientation phase detection at the focal plane (horizontal, vertical, and both diagonals in directions 90° perpendicular); were going to need to see significant improvements in the speed and accuracy of focal plane AF (at this point, I believe the low-light edge will disappear, and fall behind that of dedicated AF sensors, since right now the sensor can be exposed for longer to support very low light AF...but when speed becomes critical, image sensors are WORSE than the huge pixels of dedicated AF line sensors at sensing in the dark), etc.

Focal-plane AF is in it's infancy. It's trendy and cool right now, and it brings new capabilities to the table for a new class of digital camera. But that new class of digital camera is demonstrably at least a couple generations behind DSLRs in terms of critical functionality. It will mature, and at some point mirrorless cameras will ultimately become superior to DSLRs in every way, including AF, but that is a very long way of into the future (especially with the bulk of western economies, the US and Europe, effectively rejecting mirrorless at a mass scale at this stage.)

DPAF, as much as everyone here loves to talk about it (probably because it's really the only key sensor innovation from Canon in quite some time), is really a very simple, minor EVOLUTION of prior focal-plane AF technology. Canon took the next logical step, but overall the technology is in it's infancy. DPAF, if one were to rank sensor innovations from the last three years, ranks pretty low overall. It isn't the kind of magical technology everyone hopes it is...it's just a basic evolution of technology that already existed in a simpler form.

Canon really needs to be radical with their sensor innovation to really make anyone start thinking about them as an innovative leader in sensor technology again. They need to move to a fully on-die image processing pipeline (move ADC onto the sensor die), preferably go hyperparallel, also preferably move to either a dual-stage CDS (analog and digital) or at least a digital CDS, etc. All of this would really require a die shrink...which means Canon needs to move to a 180nm process. Even if Canon does that...it still isn't going to make DPAF a particularly intriguing or compelling technology in the world of CMOS image sensors. Even if Canon moves to QPAF (I haven't seen any such patents yet), that would still be a minor evolution of DPAF...it still wouldn't rank high among all of the radical innovations that are constantly occurring in the image sensors world.

Hi dgatwood.
Well I made it through my visit to Normandie for the D Day commemorations, the grip did act up again and for longer, refusing to clear the fault by cycling the switch, I could still regain control by turning off the grip controls, so I just used it like that. I like the grip but not sure I will put up with this behaviour much longer, I might have to look for a cheap s/h or pre loved genuine Canon grip. :-\
I will check all the little spring loaded contacts for smooth action first, clean everything, remove reattach, etc to see if I can clear it. I wonder if your fault might be helped by some of the same things, very strange the both of them.

Cheers Graham.

dgatwood said:

Valvebounce said:

So if all the buttons stop functioning and you have a grip, probably especially a third party grip this might help.
For once I'm not in need of help, just trying to give something back! ;D

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I've had a similar problem on my 6D with a third-party grip, but much less extreme than that. The dial beside the shutter release button stops working once in a while, and the way you fix it is to move the matching dial on the grip, and suddenly the one on the camera starts working again. Very bizarre.

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Mt Spokane Photography said:

If you are doing weddings, have a backup! Its Rule 1.

Don't go out and blow all your money on a new camera without having a backup, a new one has higher odds of dying soon than one that's been in use for a year or five,
I'd suggest getting a couple of refurb 60D's if that's what your budget allows. Don't forget, you will need extra batteries for any newer camera model, you will also need SD cards.
Maybe a couple of used 50D's in not a bad choice, then your batteries and CF cards will all work.

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I had my daughter's xti as a backup to my 5D mkiii... let's just say there was a drop off in quality... so I upgrade her camera to a sl1... Not as good... but in good light... it will suffice if a circumstance requires.

I have a Rokinon 14mm, works great.
But if it breaks I am not sure there will be a viable repair option, especially post warranty.

wickidwombat said:

Shane1.4 said:

The AF on it is more reliable than any of my L lenses. I am starting to wonder if people made up the AF issues because that was the only possible attack on the lens.

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Not made up. its not viggo or eldars style and viggo seems happy with his new lens and its not like its these guys first rodeo either so i expect they know what they are talking about

mine is still working great too

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Thanks! And yes, why would I ever buy a lens and trash it on purpose, I don't work for Canon, I have no interest in saying Canon has a better lens. In most cases they actually do, I still mean the AF of the 35 L on a 1-series is the best 1.4 AF lens ever. But as 50mm's go, the 50 Art destroys the L and all others in EVERY way. I'm thinking about selling the 85 now, because I use either the 50 or 200. Sigma has a gigant winner here, but there is still too poor quality control. Every lens should work when you buy new. Sometimes a lens is faulty, but I have experienced this with both the 35 Art and 50 Art and many others as well. It's absolutely worth to buy multiple copies and get a great one, because it's just untouchable...

Thanks Traveller for starting this thread. Well done to Klaus @ Photozone for a speedy review.. I love his analysis and descriptions... good to read & follow.

I saw the review a day and a half ago, and it confirmed what I thought - another very 'attractive' Canon STM IS lens. When I write 'attractive' - I mean, fantastic value for money, and very decent good image quality (IQ) and few other weaknesses.

Canon have been doing well with all their STM lenses in terms of IQ, general functionality, etc. So it's great to see this being a 'budget' yet good IQ, that complements the 18-55mm STM IS and the 55-250 STM IS.

I can imagine many people going for this lens who want a Canon EF-S UWA on the Canon DSLRs like xxxxD, xxxD, xxD and maybe even the 7D's. It's very competitive against other UWAs out there... and beats a handy few.

I used to have a good copy of the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6, but upgraded to the Sigma 8-16mm, which has even better IQ than either of the Sigma 10-20mm's. Plus it's an extra 2mm wider, which at that width is really noticeable! Here is photozone's review of the Sigma 8-16mm - which interestingly is very similar in sharpness and general other IQ characteristics (eg vignetting and CA's) to the Canon 10-18mm.
http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/515-sigma816f4556apsc?start=1

I hope many Canon APS-C camera owners will be happy owners and enjoy the fun of UWAs with the EF-S 10-18mm STM IS! Looking forward to seeing beautiful images from it.

Regards

Paul

peterisviksna said:

But what does it really give you? What is the point of changing them?

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I bought the screen with the grid and it is a blessing as it improves my "shoot level" capability a lot, meaning less rotating necessary in post and more effective mp to use.

I know the 5d3 has it as a red overlay, but the advantage of the grid on the screen is that it's always there, very unobtrusive and you just see it when you want to. In hindsight I should have bought this for my 60d years ago.

.
One day in April, 2013, I picked up my Sigma 35mmA at my post office (purchased at B&H). I drove straight to an event, put the lens on my 5D3, went outside and took a few shots of a brick wall and a passing train to confirm it functioned. Then I went into a bar, grabbed a lovely bartender, put her next to a window with gentle, soft light and checked focus at f/1.4. Everything was fine. I shot the event with the lens and have never had a problem of any kind with that lens -- it rarely gets disconnected from my 5D3 nowadays.

Now, using it on a T2i was a whole different story. I tried shooting one event using the T2i with the Sigma 35 as a second camera. The OOF rate was in the 50% range. I never used it on the T2i again. The T2i was not at fault, per se, as I used many other lenses on it and all were perfect to acceptable.

For my part, I do not accept any idea of widespread AF issues with the 50mmA -- at least not on FF camera bodies. There will always be lenses, no matter who makes them, that do not work perfectly. If I had to guess, I'll bet the actual faulty AF rate for the Sigma 50mmA is less than 1%. I'd bet the house that I could buy a 50, stick it on my 5D3 and do excellent work.

That's my story, and no one can make me say anything else!!

candyman said:

I like the first impressions of the Sony RX100 III
I am tempted to buy one.
I am also interested in a mirrorless system and may be willing to give up my DSLR's. I love my glass and the quality of it though it is big and heavy. To have this quality but smaller and lighter would be great.

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I recently got into the mirrorless world wit Sony a7 & a6000 and half a doze lenses ... its a lot of fun being able to fit in the entire gear i.e. 2 cameras + 6 lenses ranging from 12mm (Full frame FOV) to 300mm (crop frame FOV) in my mid sized office bag with room to spare for my MBP and its adapter ... I could have never fit that much DSLR gear in any of my bags ... my 5D MK III & 70D are hardly getting any workout these days ... planning on getting the Sony RX 100 III soon.

sdsr said:

That's a shame - I thought it looked rather appealing (at least in terms of the dials on top). And thanks for the extra crop.

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I still really like using it, it's a sweet little camera! Just some vexing buttons on the early models.
Rumor has it... they've been improved in later production and there may even be a retrofit...
I was just gonna glue some "extensions" onto them to improve things.

As for the much-touted superior high ISO performance of Fuji X cameras, have you encountered this issue?

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I've got a few Fujis and I've found that the biggest benefit is that the X-trans is remarkable free from blotchy chroma noise at high ISO.
The bayer-sensor X-A1 is about as chroma noise prone as any other modern sony-based sensor.
Fuji's in-camera processing is very good tho, and may account for some of that low noise appearance.
I haven't had enough time to mess with the raw files to draw my own conclusions. But that brings another; for someone like me who's used to shooting everything raw and tweaking in post, I find I can get a lot more shots the way I want them right out of the Fuji camera as a ready-to-go jpg for many uses.

I have not put my Fujis head-to-head with my Canon, Nikon, Pentax, or Olympus gear to see how they all expose the same scene. It's something I'm interested in doing tho, as I found some interesting metering ideosyncracies with my D800s and moreso with all my Pentax DSLRs.
My Canons seem more closely attuned to my Sekonic Light meters over a wider range of lighting and the Oly's I haven't wrung out yet.

DPreview found an exposure difference tho. And I would not be too surprised if there is.
.. actually, just doing a sunny-16 check on some XE1 shots from last weekend it seems it's about 1.5 stops off. I'd have to use my lightmeter and gray cards to really pin it down but looks like it's averaging ~ 1.5 stops more exposure is required at a given ISO.

I hope DxOmark figures out how to test them soon, for info' sake. i like the output regardless, I'll keep shooting with them. The lenses provide a nice looking rendering.

jrista said:

traingineer said:

jrista said:

PixInsight

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PixInsight

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Thanks to you and others who make these amazing things visible to us mere mortals. Two thumbs up!

R1-7D said:

The dynamic range on both is lacking...


Oh wait, wrong thread again. Both should be fine in rain.

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Ha ha

jdramirez said:

Dylan777 said:

jdramirez said:

As of today, I have 2 600ex rt's... so I'm debating on whether I'm going to get a another to do RT or the St-e3-rt... the YN-E3-RT isn't really on my radar screen... mostly because of this thread.

Though, it is a good problem to have. Which to get... which to get.

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Both

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I don't think I could go with three @ the same time. It's like women in bed... eventually one would feel left out...

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2 to 1 ratio works better in portrait. Balance is better with St-e3-rt on body over 600ex.

Hello! Been a while since I have posted, but I have been very busy with the yacht.
www.svunionp.blogspot.com
https://www.facebook.com/svunionp
So what we need is a good complement for our 7D.
I want good video, as good as the 7D, with a good autofocus.

Am I better off going with an older style canon video camera, that can take my lens I have now,
Or going with one of the newer consumer level units.
Usage of camera will be in a marine environment, for close up video blogging, and for action shots, waves crashing on deck, tack changes, ect.
Recommendations? price, sub 1000, the lower the better.

There are no links in your post Shawn.

Here is a great page by a fan of this camera: http://www.fototheque.com/xpan/

The depressing part about your sale for me was that the 90mm lens only works out to about the equivalent of a 50mm lens on a standard 35mm scale (film or full frame digital). The 30mm lens (17mm equivalent) talked about on there would be quite fun, though.

For $900, you could spend it better on current gear and get more immediate results.

Hi,

I use a 1DX with WFT-E6 for still photography and it works fine.

Today I made video with the Rode VideoMic Pro plugged straight into the camera and used the EOS Utility to change camera settings and did a bit of recording.
At editing time I noticed that there is a clicking noise on the audio, about two clicks/second.
I removed the WFT-E6 from 1DX, reshot and the clicking noise is gone

Has anybody experienced this as well?

Thanks guys,

@ eli72 - Wow, that is really good price.

privatebydesign said:

sagittariansrock said:

Oh, I didn't say they lied. Technically they are correct. They just made it sound a lot bigger and more meaningful than it is.
I originally thought it was for FF before I clicked on the link.

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I know you didn't, but after this thread the other day, http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=21071.msg400779#msg400779 it struck me that many people just don't get the interaction of aperture and cropping.

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Frankly speaking, I didn't know it until I learned it early on these forums from a post by Neuro. But then, I was still to understand the concept that DoF is a perceptual parameter, and not a physical one.
And then someone posted a video by Tony Northrup, and everyone started criticizing how he says aperture changes according to the format. Except all he had said was the perceived effect of the aperture, i.e., DoF changes.

I would like one, especially if they make it in black.
I don't need the IS during photoshoot, but I really really miss it for video.
If it had IS, it would be my prefered lens at all time. Even now, I prefer it over my 85 1.2 and 135 f2 for photo but I have to put it back in the bag for video unless I am on a tripod. Monopod is a no go. For video, I use my macro 100 2.8L
I had the 70-200 but I sold it, and regret it big time because of IS.
Fixed focal length makes me think twice before taking a photo. Zoom makes me lazy and just shoot from whereever I am by zooming, then regret once get home looking at the photos.
I looked around and couldn't find any other IS-ed prime lens that can do the 200 2.8 does. If you have to have the IS I suggest buying the 70-200. At least you had the chance to work with the prime and you now know why you would shoot at 200 vs 135 or 70 for that matter.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

http://www.ehow.com/how_6469473_automatically-stamps-videos-sony-vegas.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_7837384_include-time-stamp-movie-maker.html

I expect that most decent video editing software does this.

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They are out of date and do not work in Vegas anymore and the other would take forever with months of videos.

I'd not be the one to experiment, but I'd be surprised if it did any more than confuse communicationwith the camera when both were on. There is data flowing thru the contacts and it may get all mixed up if you turned two items on, which is why they tell you only one flash on at a time, if you want it to communicate with the camera.

They come from China, the Chinese get subsidized shipping to the USA, but the cost of returning it is out of the question, and on the off chance that it does cause a failure, you will just eat any repairs.

NewCanonUser said:

I got the camera in Nov in a sales contest at work so I don't have the option to return it. Living in TX I'm not anywhere near the Canon repair locations (although that would have been nice.) When I contacted Canon they did not mention the option of a certified repair location. How would I go about finding out if there is one in the area?

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If you just got it in November, it's very likely that it's still under warranty. All you need is a proof of purchase and I'm sure someone in Accounting at work has the receipt. Get a copy of that, fill out the form on this page, then follow the instructions and mail it in for a free repair

Hasn't this lens been out for a couple of years? Anyway, I have the Canon version 1 for it, and I've used it with great success for capturing the Milky Way and for landscapes. I love this lens. When I bought a full frame, I was a little sad to lose it. I heard somewhere that the lens works on full frames if you leave it zoomed out at 16mm. I looked at how the back lens element worked and it seemed possible, so I tried it. Sure enough, the lens works on a full frame (at 16mm)! And so I've been able to continue using it. It does have more vignetting than normal for modern lenses, but it's not terrible.