Posts

NWPhil · Jan 27, 2015

eml58 said:
infared said:

LOL!!! (Once again....What kind of hood do you have on that $3000 lens?). Funny post!

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The attached is the "Dumb assed end"

I must admit I didn't research enough before I purchased, the Images from this Lens are 2nd to none among my ultra WA lenses, of which I own several, Canon 14f/2.8L II, Canon 8-15f/4, canon 17TSE, 14-24f/2.8 Nikon, Canon 15f/2.8.

With the exception of the 17TSE, all my WA lenses are purchased first for Underwater WA, secondary function, Landscape, but I sort of suck at Landscape.

I just couldn't imagine anyone handicapping a Lens by having a fixed Lens Hood like the Zeiss 15, in my view, "Dumb Assed".

And, after trying several Circular Polariser Filters it wasn't until I found the Heliopan Slim that I found a Polariser that didn't cause Vignetting, but that Heliopan cost $500 bucks.

So, amazingly sharp, beautiful contrast, smoothest Manual Focussing system I've experienced, but a dumb assed Lens Hood system.

Yes, as has been shown by others you can remove it, but after laying out 3k for a Lens anyone that brings a spanner or a screwdriver within 3 metres of this Lens while on my Camera, is a dead man, or women.

Marumi filters - there is an old test on the web placing a Marumi filter on the top 3 or 5
Not all are good, but neither are the B+H

Indeed - there is more than small distortion, less flare, more contrast and richer rendition, smoother bokeh, and flawless construction .... the major flaw is indeed the price,
Cought it up or take some cough medicine

Is not for everyone, regarding needs or wallet. Surely is for anyone taking no compromises and wanting the best available.
People complain so much about super UWA and WA prices, but I see way far less complaints with fast super-teles pricing (other than not being able to afford them, as indeed they are at least twice the zeiss 15 price).
Extreme lenses are difficult to build and take a lot of R&D money

(Yes, I have a super-sharp Samyang, TS-e 17 and even tried the 14mm II and Nikon 12-24)

NancyP · Jan 27, 2015

I think this is a matter of taste, of weight if hiking for long distances, and sometimes a matter of multiple uses. For instance, if I combine a little golden/blue hour shooting with some astrophotography, I am going to take one or more fast primes. The f/4-ish zoom may not be the best option here, but if I am going on a 10 mile hike and I want to travel light, my 15-85 and 60D and tripod (filters, release) are the choices.

bcflood · Jan 27, 2015

I'll be eager to see how this new Rebel compares to the 70D. I've been thinking of picking up a Rebel or 70D but wanted to wait until the 2015 refresh came out to see how the price and features compared. I haven't been in the hobby for a bit so I don't need something with a bunch of bells and whistles, but want something decent enough that I don't outgrow it too quick once I shake the rust off. I have an old EOS 3 and A2E that have been gathering dust for several years, so I am eager to start shooting again

LovePhotography · Jan 27, 2015

neuroanatomist said:
LovePhotography said:

steepjay said:

I just had a lengthy conversation with a buddy of mine who was agonizing over 400/2.8 + TC vs 800/5.6, similar decision. The decision of reach without TC vs. the versatility of the faster, shorter, lighter lens plus TCs can be a challenge and is very personal. I used to have a 300/2.8, it's great for some things but I don't think it fits the bill for what you've described. 300 is too short for birding and safaris so you'd be living with a TC full time. I did a week in Tanzania with 300/4 a few years ago and had the 1.4 on a lot.

If you've already used the 500/4v1 you know the handling challenges associated with a lens this size so no point getting into that.

My vote, sell your 100-400 and get the 400/2.8. It's $1000 and a pound more than the 500/4 but you'll get 560/4 with a 1.4 and 800/5.6 if you get the 2x at some point.

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I kind of have a similar question. Rather then start another very similar thread, while not trying to hijack this thread, I thought I would pose my question here, since interested parties are already engaged. If money is an object, but not a prohibitive issue, I wonder about the following lens choices...

Okay, so I have the 300 mm 2.8 II. I work about 1 million hours a week, so I rarely get to go anywhere. But, I have a nice lens collection because, well, I like photography and it's something I can do in brief moments between work. So, I see that like new 800 mm I asked lenses can be purchased used for about $10,000. There aren't that many reviews of the 800, but the couple that I read said the lens is "very sharp, but not tack-sharp". And, when you look at the digital picture website lens comparison, it appears to be a little bit better than the 300 mm plus 2X Tele converter, but not strikingly better. So, the question is, when shooting long shots, is the 800 mm that much better than the 300 mm 2.8+ 2X Tele converter? Whether it's pictures of the moon, or pictures of the refrigerator magnets taken from the other end of the house, will I see that much difference? Another words, if you have the 800 mm I asked lens, or even better, have the 300 mm 2.8 with Tele converter and the 800 mm, would you get the 800 mm again? I heard from a very knowledgeable source (the Canon price watch guy) that in the last few months, the big camera stores were liquidating their 800 mm, because with all the new big white lenses, they were afraid of getting stuck with them. What is the cheapest anybody has seen them go for in the last year? Is a used one that's like new for $10,000 a great price? Or, were the big camera shops selling them new for not much more than that? Thanks.

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Skip the 800/5.6, it's basically superfluous. The 600 II + 1.4xIII is optically better and lighter, the 600 II + 2xIII similarly beats the 800 + 1.4x.

Thank you. Appreciate the help. Don't want to spend $10k on pictures of the craters on the moon that aren't any better than what I've already got!

mrzero · Jan 27, 2015

I wanted to know what you meant by using a beer cooler without having to listen to the audio, so I dug up this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4c15neFttoU

Turns out, he places a styrofoam disposable cooler over the subject's mounting platform, with the twin heads of the flash pointing up from the bottom for bouncing the light around the interior of the cooler, and with cut-outs for the lens and backdrop.

candyman · Jan 27, 2015

Dylan777 said:
candyman said:

In my opinion, the 35mm f/2 IS is a great lens!

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Nicely done candyman. I like background light.

Thanks.
Every few seconds the light on this ice sculpture was changing. It went from blue to green to yellow and so on. With some patience something I was able to catch a good moment of light

alexturton · Jan 27, 2015

This happened on my 7d. Turned out to be a dirty contact on the flash

lucasrodriguezfontan · Jan 27, 2015

Couple pictures of Pato or Horseball. Hope you like them.

Abierto Argentino de Pato by Lucas Rodriguez Fontan, on Flickr

chrysoberyl · Jan 27, 2015

Quote from: JumboShrimp on December 03, 2014, 07:18:37 PM

[Seriously considering this lens but would like to hear from the Forum Members about their experiences. Much appreciated.]

I have one and the build is excellent, the AF is fast and it is very sharp. There is some coma at the edges that is apparent in astrophotography, but this is really a portrait lens. I have used mine four times since I got it (I am just not into portraiture), so I will probably sell it.

donn · Jan 27, 2015

I wanted to have an all around zoom that reaches a bit over 70mm when I travel. I went to a local dealer and tried both Canon and Sigma's 24-105, I find the Sigma sharper at 24mm and at 105mm. Then again, no AFMA done with the Canon upon testing, perhaps the copy needed AFMA on my camera body.

I am very impressed with the Sigma.

Valvebounce · Jan 27, 2015

Hi.
That reminds me I need to clean the big dob of crud off my 20D sensor. I don't like to change lenses unnecessarily, but don't let it prevent me when another lens will be better. I'm trying to enlighten my friend, he takes his lens off and fits a body cap when he puts his camera away!

Cheers, Graham.

te1973 said:
You like to see at least one shot of the mirror?????????
Ever seen a DSLR without a mirror???

Ever taken a shot with f22 having blue sky in the frame?
Says it all.....

My opinion: Anybody who is serious about photography would never leave the cam open.
Only if you take pictures like Ken Rockwell you can leave your cam open all year.

erjlphoto · Jan 26, 2015

wockawocka said:
erjlphoto said:

wockawocka said:

I gave up waiting and bought a 645z

Don't hate me.

Click to expand...

Hope you will relate you experience with the 645z in future posts.
You know we are all secretly jealous....right?

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Here you go Erlj

http://chrisgilesphotography.com/blog/pentax-645z-review-pt1-the-journey/

Very thorough and down to earth review. Your portrat photography is also quite inspiring.
Don't think I can justify a MF format system as a hobbyist, but it is nice to see how good a camera can be...in the right hands.

Thanks for posting your link.

IMG_0001 · Jan 26, 2015

jdramirez said:
IMG_0001 said:

Engineers, we are fussy nitpicking little critters aren't we? Looking back, I feel like most great things we accomplished were made to prove someone else wrong...

*EDIT: please take this post with a pinch of salt.

Click to expand...

I was a science major in college.. for me it was not finding the truth, but getting close to what may be considered the truth... I was also a philosophy minor, but that was mostly deleted over time.

Truth is never found in science, its just made up from a bunch of hypotheses. Personally, the more involved in sciences I get, the more I feel like I NEED Philosophy to get by.

IgotGASbadDude said:
jdramirez said:

I like to think I take care of my stuff... I too keep the boxes... So maybe we are simply wanting to buy from those who share our presumptions... is that projecting in psychology? I took psychopathology in college... So I could diagnose cramming a lens where it doesn't belong... Butt, that is neither here nor there.

Click to expand...

I see what you did there ;D. I think I'll butt out of the conversation, it's getting stuffy in here.

Just because someone has the original box doesn't mean they've taken care of the item, but as you pointed out, those of us who do keep the original stuff feel more comfortable buying from others who do the same. Doesn't guarantee they took better care of the equipment, but it feels a bit more reassuring . . . ;D

As for keeping boxes, I keep mine. However, I'm not sure how well I keep my gear compared to others. I have to admit shooting in pretty cold, or pretty wet, or dusty conditions without caring much. However, after shooting I try to clean a bit and store everything in a protective bag. I guess I'm in the lower echelons of people who take good care of their equipment.

te1973 · Jan 26, 2015

None.

Bruce Photography · Jan 26, 2015

I have both Canon Full Frame (all 5D models) and Nikon bodies (D800, D800E, D810). I can choose to shoot either. It does take longer to match up the Nikon shutter cord but it is on the front where I like it. Why? I use vertical grips on all my cameras and if the push in receptacle is on the left side of the camera that is where an L bracket covers. No RRS brackets and Kirk and others carefully let you open the door(s) on the camera and RRS has a cut-out to BEND the cord, vertical shots are always a pain on a Canon. On a Nikon that has a front connector it NEVER needs to bend the cord just to make it fit in the vertical direction.

If you had to choose only one feature, I would not use this feature to be the deciding factor. The Nikon front screw mount also beats the Canon design when carrying around the mounted cable from site because of the screw mount.

Maybe when all cameras can be triggered by a radio control, cables will all go away and we can complain about the design of the remote.

scottkinfw · Jan 26, 2015

Hey Craig, congrats on a great trip. I'm headed to South Africa in late October.

I would suggest that you add a flash to the mix with a better beamer. This will come in handy even during the day in harsh light. You may find animals sitting under trees for example. Also, if possible, try to go on night drive safaris- way cool.

Your gear sounds pretty inclusive (I have been to Serengeti/Tanzania X2, so can't comment on your locations yet). You may seriously want to consider hiring a guide as some of the critters (even large ones like giraffes) can hide in plain sight.

Finally, before you start packing the large whites, check weight restrictions. Get a safari vest with lots of pockets to off-load heavy objects until you clear check in. The vest is not counted as a carry on and there is no weight restriction.

Sek

JoFT · Jan 26, 2015

privatebydesign said:
JoFT said:

privatebydesign said:

JoFT said:

I do not like any stasi attitude of censoring... This is the way to go..

By the way Dustin Abott is doing exactly the same...

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It is not censoring, it is a privately owned site and we all agree to the terms when we sign up. If you want 'freedom' start your own site or post somewhere that has no rules.

And when Dustin started doing his posts just like you, I said exactly the same thing to him. http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=19471.msg367290#msg367290 He subsequently changed the way he did his posts and links, nobody has any issue with people linking to lengthy articles with many relevant and supporting images that then invite discussion within the thread they are posted, but that isn't what you are doing.

Click to expand...

Today I read a review from Dustin:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=17252.msg319465#msg319465
he is exactly doing what I did. Informing about a longer article he wrote on his blogs.

By the way I am not a professional photographer. I run another business. But I use photopraghy in my professional life. I work with images as well. The blog is the forum to discuss topics which are interesting for me and to get a feedback from people have more knowledge and experience than me.

I am really sorry if I did something which is wrong or I touched you in a way which hurts you.

Click to expand...

Yes, and in that thread that he started the review is an extensive body of work that Dustin not only invites feedback on but he also posts many of the example images in the thread and engages in genuine discussion. He is using the two separate formats for their strengths, he is not just doing it to illicit page hits.

You have not hurt me, and I hope I have not hurt you, but I do believe the way you are using this site is not how the owner wants it used, and that is probably why your first links were broken. Certainly I am not interested in going to outside links that offer no more than a simple in line post could offer, the only person that helps is you.

Thank you for reply. It is interesting to see that the same post in one or the other forum will end in a totally different perception...

I was told that in the internet you should be efficient and short: To copy the same stuff and the same images of the blog on this site did not make any sense to me so fare... but if sou think this is the better way to this page: I will post the deleted thread again later in a different way - but maybe tomorrow... It will be interesting to know how the perception will be...

JoFT · Jan 26, 2015

mackguyver said:
Sporgon said:

mackguyver said:

Here's one big difference between APS-C & FF - the pixel density really brings out the flaws in lenses - check out the purple fringing in the 7DII vs. 1DsIII from the latest test on TDP - yikes:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=397&Camera=963&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=397&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

Click to expand...

Is that pixel density doing that or distance from the chart ? I presume these are shot on the same framing so the 7DII will be further away.

I think TDP is a very useful and well executed resource, but I'm not sure allowing direct comparisons between APS and FF reflects real world results.

Click to expand...

I'm no optical expert, but I would think that the abberations would improve the closer you get towards infinity focus, so I would think it's the pixel density. I noticed this same phenomenon with my fast lenses, particularly with the 24L II and 50L when I was shooting with a crop sensor.

It is always a bit depending on the lens design. But basically you are right. Color fringing or Chromatic aberrations are an optical phenomena which is based on diffraction. Look at the Dark side of the moon cover: http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/pink-floyds-dark-side-of-the-moon-128883

The same effect happens while focusing. The effect is just related to geometric conditions. In the sensor plane this effect has an absolute size. And as higher the pixel density is as more sensitive is this sensor against this optical failure.

martti · Jan 26, 2015

For me the #17 represents photography in its best sense, depicting what is.
The number 9. is fantastic because there are two tigers in it. A young tiger can do miracles even to a mediocre photo. Let alone two.

I used to love devastated scenes like the one from Homs when I was young. Now they just make me profoundly sad. And then I start looking at the verticals and the horizontals of the buildings and I cannot decide is it the reality that is distorted or just the picture.

The winning shot won because it is a zeitgeist picture, showing what is particular to our times.
Why is a Hong Kong train rolling with dim blue lights inside...maybe it is NOT aHong KOng train at all but a sightseeing train from an amusement park?

The number 2 owl shot is just great. "Wingman!"

Thank you for posting the link. NG is always NG even though it changes. So do we, until we die.

Marsu42 · Jan 25, 2015

axeri said:
and doing the same in the softer 6D images results in overall nicer images.

These differences are academic and can only be seen by pixel-peeping and comparing same scenes by reviews - for real life shooting it's meaningless, as is removing the anti-aliasing filter (see reviews on the Nikon d800e).

I know it's tempting to explain one's impressions with tech specs or scientific data, but photography and the human eye/perception is so subjective and the images are always viewed in a certain setting/light imho it pays to simply improve one's core photography skills. Certainly no harm in *knowing* about technical details, but don't let them get at you

axeri said:
And the small DR advantage of the 6D could also be noticeable in some images.

More dr doesn't magically improve your images unless you've got clipping or visible banding/low resolution in the shadows. It even can be argued that more dr *decreases* iq because you squeeze it into the same 14bit raw file range, preventing you from filling the histogram left to right... that's why high-dr sensors will probably have 16bit res.

Jan 25, 2015

Glad to help!

Canon Rumors · Jan 25, 2015

This topic has been moved to Third Party Manufacturers.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=24749.0

Vivid Color · Jan 25, 2015

Wow! Wonderful video! And how wonderful it must've been the see these beautiful creatures in their natural state.

martti · Jan 25, 2015

A beautiful video. Thank you so much. I wil shoo thees to the frrench frreends of mien demain au travail!
They will love this. They probably know nothing about how creatively great and crazy their countrymen can be.
Vive la France! I like it here.

mb66energy · Jan 25, 2015

adhocphotographer said:
5D MK IV would be nice....
Despite not being a big 50mm fan, my 50mm 1.8 is starting to be a weak link! so Maybe an upgrade... not fussed!

Zeiss OTUS might give you a little bit of improvement ...

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