CAnon should have launched the 24mm pancake a while ago. I sold my crop sensor camera already. The 100D is nice and slim and would have been the thing to carry around with the pancace 24mm. The 40mm is too long for general use, especially inside. Probably I'll take the Lumix LX100 to replace the EOS100.

I normally shoot sports with the lens but occasionally get side tracked. Here, just right for the subject distance. Can't beat the 300 for fast and accurate focusing.

Infineon Girl © Keith Breazeal by Keith Breazeal Photography, on Flickr

neuroanatomist said:

fish_shooter said:

I try to only swap out parts while indoors while in dry heat. This way the camera interior is relatively dry so even when cooled will not lead to condensation.

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Bodies and lenses – even weather sealed ones – are not hermetically sealed. Weather sealing keeps out dust and moisture, not air. Moisture is liquid water, 'humidity' is (a measure of) gaseous water dissolved in air. That means individual water molecules floating around in the air, and those water molecules are smaller than the nitrogen molecules that make up most of the air. So if there's humidity in the air, it'll be in your gear. If the temp warms up too fast across the dew point, it will condense inside.

In winter, the issue is usually going from cold, dry outside to warm, less dry inside. In that case, it's not the water vapor inside the gear, but the external water vapor that condenses on the surface of the cold gear. In that case, taking a plastic 'ziploc' bag out so it's cold, then putting the gear in it before bringing it in, so the condensation forms on the surface of the bag. Allow time for the gear to warm up - using it, especially an extending zoom (even a 'weather sealed' one) will draw the warm, more humid air into the cold camera/lens interior, where the water vapor will then condense.

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I think I have heard of this before but, I guess I never got it until your explanation! ???
Thanks and great tip.

I have used all the functions connected wirelessly to a myriad of platforms, windows apple & android and never had an inkling of a problem.

Hi Mt Spokane.
Sorry to hear you have a faulty toy, I don't doubt that the Canon Refurb Centre will see this right, it is just a hassle to have to deal with stuff like this. At least it was a treat for you not a gift, that would have been disappointing.

Cheers, Graham.

This topic has been moved to FOR SALE Photo Equipment.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=24345.0

Merry Christmas all!
My E-card was also posted on another thread.

I get all my camera stuff from Asia because where I live the local dealer only has a limited stock. He also charges ridiculous prices because people do not know what the legal 'world prices' are. there is no local Canon or any other camera repair work shop. All things Canon will be sent to France and taken care by Diana which is the official canon repair agent. The trip there and back takes 2 months.

I bought a crappy Canon point and shoot from South Korea. It was so crappy I only had it a couple of months and I sold it to a friend of mine. Three weeks afterward, the camera ceased to function totally. Diana repaired it under warranty. When I had dropped my 35mm L lens, Diana's offer was 40% more expensive than authorized dealer's offer in Helsinki, Finland. So clearly, Canon's rules are adapted to the country in question.

When I had a problem with an Olympus camera, they asked me to send it to the French dealership and they sent me a new one, an improved version also. Which failed 14 months after I had bought it but luckily I had managed to sell in in the meantime.

Some internet dealers have their own guarantee policy that you can extend up to 3 years with an additional fee, of course. Instead of waging war against gray imports, Canon should establish a similar system as long as the market has not been taken over by swifter small companies.

How well does it work with a 1.7x?

jwilbern said:

Eldar, that is one of the finest cat photographs in the history of the internet. Merry Christmas to all of the Canon Rumors crowd!

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Thanks! I´ll forward your compliments to His Highness

I use the Paul C. Buff 86" Extreme Silver PLM™ (about 74" across the front). They are about $70.00, which make them medium priced http://paulcbuff.com/plm.php I use my PCB PLMs with Profoto heads and packs.

The Profoto Deep White Umbrella (Extra Large, 65") at $350.00 is the high end http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1013344-REG/profoto_100980_deep_white_umbrella_extra.html

The good thing about umbrellas is that it is hard to take a bad photo. The bad thing about umbrellas is that it is hard to take an outstanding shot with them

There are almost as many ways to use an umbrella as there are people using them Next to the camera, 45° from the camera, 75-80° from the camera or maybe even 90°. Low height, straight on, high angle, even straight over-head. They can be aimed at the subject or feathered. Lots of choices Have FUN learning

BTW there isn't much difference between umbrellas, until you get to the bigger parabolics. The lower the price, the lower the construction quality, is the main difference.

Revenge for the consumer rejection of the 'direct print' button no doubt.

Marsu42 said:

Busted Knuckles said:

I like mine. I have to admit that I had always avoided anything wider than 24 because of the distortion.

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Um, seems like you're missing the point of an uwa zoom and would be better served with a 24-70/4? For "no distortion" straight out of camera you're better off with a wide prime afaik.

Khalai said:

And my trusty but rusty 50/1.4 is considered a very professional lens (4x faster than 2.8)?

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Unfortunately, the fallacy gear xyz equals "professional" or "good photog" is very common. I'm cured since I read some books on flash photography, wedding and lighting and all those people used the 24-105/4, often stopped down to f5.6. Having shot some people scenes, I can sympathize - unless you are desperate for the light gathering of f2.8 it's not worth it for having people out of focus.

At least with my f4 lens setup, I can at least consider myself competent by owning a 50/1.8 :->

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50/1.8 is the first pro lens most people buy.

I used to adapt manual focusing lenses in various mount when I had the 5Dc, I don't do it with 5Dmk3. But I did buy Sony A7 for lens-adapting purposes. Much easier to use.

Anyhow, there was once quite active group dedicated to usage of adapted lenses on EOS mount on a website portal that used to be the biggest photographer's community, you can still find tons of good info, here: https://www.flickr.com/groups/eos-manual-lenses/discuss/72157634659187796/

TDP has just published image quality of the 100-400 II on the 7DII. The quality is remarkable for a crop, and the 100-400 II on the 7DII at 400mm (fov = 640mm) and f/5.6 is actually better than the Tamron 150-600mm at 600mm f/8 on FF.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=972&Camera=963&Sample=0&FLI=4&API=1&LensComp=929&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=5&APIComp=2

At 300mm (fov = 480mm) f/5 it beats the Tamron at 500mm f/6.3 on FF.

This squares with my own measurements of the 100-400 II on the 7d II vs the 100-400 I on the 7D, where the new combo wins hands down (my 100-400 I was admittedly soft).

tpatana said:

I usually shoot with 70-200 II, today I borrowed 100L from my friend. It's interesting lens. 67mm filter is strange, but you get interesting shoots anyway.

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What was strange about the filter you were using?? Do you mean the size? Lost of Canon lenses use 67mm.

Keep in mind the advertised speed is the max speed. It doesn't mean it will always write that fast. I know a 94mbs card will do better in a 7D than a
67mbs/700x card. Both are above the speed of the camera but lets say part of the time they both are writing at 1/3 speed. That puts them both
under the cameras speed but the faster card is still faster. I will always buy the fastest card I can afford at the time.

The Canon f/2.8 L portrait zooms are the best in their class but can be expensive. There are some other options for general portrait photography like the Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 VC USD. This is a very handy focal length for portraiture on a crop body and it has VC which is quite useful when you're using the 70mm end with a moderate shutter speed. You could pair that with a fast prime like the 85mm f/1.8 or 100mm f/2 for tighter portraits or headshots. Test these lenses out if you are on a tight budget and can't afford Canon's f/2.8 L zooms. If you decide to upgrade to full frame further down the line then these lenses will look and perform even better than on crop...

From a medium~ to long-term utility perspective these options are good, plus their lower replacement cost will help keep your insurance premiums down. It's worth considering these options if the ultimate L-glass is out of your reach.

P.S. I'd also highly recommend getting a good external flash for portrait photography.

A shot taken at "Basel Morgestraich" with ISO 32000 on the 1Dx. Indeed it's quite usable ...

20130218-0016.jpg by wok64, on Flickr

Hi Neuro.
Checking for the 7D it says Canon flashes will work in silent mode (or do they automatically reset silent mode to disable) are you telling me this is not a standard condition throughout the range! Product differentiation?
That is why I asked if it was Canon or Canon dedicated! Oh well never assume! :

Cheers, Graham.

neuroanatomist said:

You need to set 'Live view silent shooting' to disable.

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Thank you all! I just sent the lens today to the service center in costa mesa, ca. I didn't want to part with it but it needs to be fixed.

The "string of plastic" or whatever it is was inbetween the lens elements. I managed to shake the lens to the point of getting it to the very sides of the lens. I could just use it but I rather get rid of the excess now. Definitely inside the lens. lol I know that much. ;D

I don't have to worry about return shipping since it's under warranty, correct?

I tried out the 70-300 DO amongst others before buying my 70-300L. The L achieved most of the goals of the DO, so I think that if the technology is to be used for a zoom, it would make more sense for a superzoom, as dgatwood suggests. That would allow Canon to respond to the longer superzooms available from third parties, and achieve an f/5.6 aperture at maximum zoom for maximum compatibility with AF in camera bodies.

dgatwood said:

I think you're off by about a decade there. The concept of psychoacoustic masking was conceived in the early 80s, and its predecessors were in early development at that point, but MP3 itself wasn't publicly released as a standard until 1993, and they didn't even start writing the first line of code for the first implementation of MP3 until 1991. That first reference implementation wasn't finished until 1996, and wasn't published publicly until 1998. By early 1999, just about everybody was using it.

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I stand corrected...

I'm an Apple employee. If there is one thing I've learned while at Apple it's this; make the greatest product YOU want to make and then markets will not just follow, they will be created.

ashmadux said:

I hear that. All i did was agree with the (apparently disliked) reviewer based on my usage. I cannot say if that situation is typical...heck i hope not.

Photog neighbors...that would actually be very cool.


Cheers, happy shooting (with good Af, heheh )

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Actually it would be damn good to have a photog neighbour you're right .

Someone along with me just to shout "lens cap you moron" before I try shooting would be handy. In fact, I'd probably pay a premium for a camera that would shout that at me at the right times! And of course "You ain't gonna get that bird flying past because you just changed your settings to snap that interesting tree five minutes ago".