Re: A new "Real World" test of the upcoming 7D Mark II by Jeff Cable

risc32 said:

cool.

The photos look good to me, but i gotta wonder. not that it has any bearing on what is captured, but at the end of the first paragraph, when he listed his camera settings, do many of you guys do things like that? An auto exp mode, with compensation, then manually jacking the iso around? At night, under lights(that is, bright objects moving around the frame with a black background, in an auto mode?)?
again, good shots though.

that is also one amazing HS facility.

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I hadn't thought that much about it, but I do sometimes do exactly what he did in this test. Late afternoon games are particularly difficult, as the light diminishes quickly, yet I try to keep the ISO as low as I can get away with and bump it up as needed. If the light isn't changing, then I'm much more likely to set and forget.

I need to read a couple of the long posts (thank you to those others for contributing solutions), but a speed read tells me the following little device is not mentioned.

I had the same desire as Bennymista: send a confirmation image to a client from my phone so he/she would give me clearance and I'd be covered for any later arguments. I found a small item in Amazon by marketer "ikross" with a micro USB on the back end and a choice of USB or SDHC card on the "front". (Also offers microUSB, MS Pro, and "M2" slots.) I realize that the SDHC" designation might be a problem... The solid device adds an inch to the length of the phone while in use. I like having a little "block" device rather than a dongle format.

I did install DSLR Controller on my phone, too, for this purpose.

This is about $12-13 before shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/iKross-Micro-USB-Memory-Adapter-Samsung/dp/B00DRU2IGY/ref=sr_1_6?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1414011835&sr=1-6&keywords=ikross+OTG

or search "ikross OTG" and a page with a couple of deals will appear.

I usually feed RAW files to both CF and SD cards in my bodies but I guess it'd be necessary to change that to put JPEGs on the SD card to set up the approval cycle.

Phil L said:

Gwathren said:

Phil L said:

I'm not too excited about the built in intervalometer since it tops out at 99 shots.
What's that going to give me? A few seconds of TL video?

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The Canon website says it takes 1 to 99 shots at preselected intervals but also unlimited.

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Does it really?!? Excellent! Now I feel better about it.

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Yeah can check it here at page 250 of the manual

StoneColdCoffee said:

Hi everyone,

I saw today on CPW that the 6D & 24-105 went on sale for $1850 usd. Ive been shopping a 6D for a while now and just decided to wait until it hit about 1300. I bought my 5D mk II low when the 5DIII came out and got a good deal that way. I already have a 24-105 but the new one could be sold pretty easily. I think its a great carry around lens. So that would make the 6D in my price range. The thing im curious about is - Has anyone bought from BigValueInc before? have you had any problems? anything that other CR Forum member shouldbe aware of when purchasing from them? thanks for your help, Which has been a lot in the time ive read the forum.

SCC

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I bought my 6D/24-105 kit from BVI. It came factory sealed with US warranty card in the box. No complaints with BVI. Just note... they're not a listed Canon reseller. When I had to get service on my 6D when the power switch broke off after the second week of owning it (cracked from the factory, I strongly suspect - probably during shipping), I had a lot of difficulty getting Canon to fix it. They wanted $300 just to look into it. The savings I got on the package were washed out once I had to do the repair... I eventually - after a week or so of back and forth with them - got them to fix it at no cost, but they would not warranty the repair... whatever the h-ll that means?!?

If I had to do it over again, I'd probably still do the deal, but I might call BVI ahead of time to ensure that the camera I was buying is a fully sealed kit and not one that they took apart to sell the individual components.

tayassu said:

That's why I'm scared off by the G1X II, it just loses so much detail at high ISO's...
Still have to decide for myself between Canon G7X and Panasonic LX100... I'm tempted by the size and FL of the Canon, but the handling on the Panasonic is extremely attractive...

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At high ISO levels, a G1X II is light years ahead of the Sony and Canon 1 inch sensor cameras, the LX100 is closer. They all have their points, but the G1X II is almost the same as the 70D at high ISO.

If you are concerned about loss of detail at high ISO's, you will need FF to be appreciably better.

powershot2012 said:

Looks good, hopefully the G7X II will surpass the RX100 III

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I think - and so it seems from the first reviews - the RX100III is too good to be surpassed but the G7 X is (almost) equal.
Each has its tradeoffs and so it comes to individual tastes.
And for me its good to see that I don't need to buy a Sony, because I had my issues with this company.

climber said:

On my 15'' Retina display I see bending on the "picture" above. Anyone else too?

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Blimey I thought it was just the new iPhone 6s that were meant to have that problem!

These are available now and are around $180 a piece.

I did pick up their YN-E3-RT last year and have been waiting on these for a year. Definitely please with the price. Seems like from what I heard, results are mixed with the YN-E3-RT. While it has focus beam assist, seems like the alignment is slightly off so only upper focus points work, and on crop sensor, you are pretty much SOL, though with the 7D MK II and wider spread, may not be as bad. Then again, while the Yongnuo's implementation is shoddy, it is 100% better than Canon's lack of implementation, so I guess this is one of those, if it works for you and your situation, it is a bonus.

My guess is that Yongnuo took a lot of heat for issues with the YN-E3-RT and have been working on improving the 600-EX-Rt... Though it is not surprising this long fabled gun finally shows up to market, there is a 3rd player in the market who has another 600 clone coming out so still waiting on hearing if Yongnuo got their act together on this, or if they rushed to market to try and fight off the competition.

I use the 60d for sports works great indoors with a 7-200 f2.8 outside with sigma 150-500mm depending on sport and conditions but great for motor sports.

Marsu42 said:

neuroanatomist said:

It's no problem leaving HSS as default.

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... which makes it so annoying you have to explicitly turn hss on after each battery change, and if you forget it the flash clips at max x-sync and the camera engages safety shift :-\ ... if the flash doesn't remember the setting, I'd rather have a "no hss" setting next to 2nd curtain than the way it is now.

Quasimodo said:

I would like the possibility to stop action with HSS, but also to overpower daylight.

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You can use Magic Lantern, dual_iso ~triples+ the flash effectiveness... I use it all the time for high-power hss in bright daylight with a single flash as I find the 6d's max x-sync of 1/180s very limiting.

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I don´t think ML has cracked the 1dx, nor would I dare to install it I did have it on my previous 5D II

They probably revers engineering Canon's newest 1DX/5d mk IIIAF system, to avoid the mistakes of 50mm Art.

jeffa4444 said:

Nothing really revolutionary in this others have tried liquid lenses in the past without any real success.

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If it is actually practical, that's a big difference. Since they received a patent, it has some unique feature. The fact that this is their 2nd patent in a year shows that they are spending time and money on developing something, but, it may never make it to production.

Very nice series.

wickidwombat said:

candc said:

If you get the 6d you don't have to get a 24-70. Maybe the 16-35 f/4 plus your 50 and your 70-200 makes a great kit?

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i agree with this since you will be going for landscapes etc with the 6D 24mm isnt wide enough

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Well as i mentioned before, i will mostly get the samyang 14 f/2.8 for astrophotography so, this might cover that, until a time comes when i feel that i need the 16-35 or a 14-24 is released

Marsu42 said:

2n10 said:

These were taken with my 7D on the 100-400 with a Kenko 1.4TC. You must use the outer 2 middle row focus points to get decent focusing ability. Focus is slower, you need greater light and contrast.

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Question is if at this magnification, you'd see a difference with a tc and the bare lens.

To the op: I've just got a 70-300L with the Kenko (you get a working but sloooooow f8 af), so take it for what it's worth - but it's about the same iq or even a bit better than the older 100-400L. Basically, forget about using this on a crop body, you're cutting 1.6x times 1.4x away from the glass and it really shows with these midrange lenses.

I only use it to zoom in on sunsets and the like nowadays that need even more cropping, but for anything that require sharpness it's not worth switching the tc on.

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I'd say the IQ is a little worse but definitely not killer loss up close. As the distance to target increases then the loss increases too.

How large a print will you be making at 300DPI?

A 12mpixel sensor will allow you to make a great print up to 10x16inches. A 20mpixel sensor is good to 13x19inches. If you know how to work the magic you can easily double the dimensions/quadruple the area of these prints.

mbiedermann said:

I'm looking for a small(ish) traveling camera. I will also buy a water-tight casing for scuba photography which is available for either camera.

Should I get the G1X Mark II or the new G7X. I'm looking for the highest IQ and greatest ability for low light possible between these two cameras. The size difference between them is not that important to me.

Here is my comparison of what is important:
G1X-II: 1.5" sensor @ 12 MP, optional EVF, hot boot for external flash, and nice grip
G7X: 1" sensor @ 20 MP, no possible EVF, no possible external flash and no grip

Again, I'm looking for the highest IQ and best low light pix since I'm used to what my 5D3 can produce.

Cheers

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PropeNonComposMentis said:

It has been my experience, that most people purchase a medium-range fast-aperture lens, and then down the road a bit, they add a TC to the kit/gear bag.
But to find yourself suddenly nursing a 600mm f/4 with a TC on a thin-walled-camera-body. I see a chance of heart-break.

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I don't understand your point. I've used a 70-200/2.8 and a 600/4 with TCs, on and off tripods. The lens mount on all bodies is quite strong.

V8Beast said:

dtaylor said:

Absolutely, and I certainly don't want to come off as biased against it. IMHO the D750 means Canon should drop the price on the 5D3 until the 5D4 is available.

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It will be interesting to see what happens with 5D3 pricing. For someone who isn't heavily invested in either system, I don't see any incentive to purchase a 5D3 over a D750. If someone who isn't heavily invested in either system asked for my opinion regarding both bodies, I'd tell them both are great tools, but the D750 clearly offers more value for the dollar.

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These products are similar, but the price of one has little to do with the price of the other. That's because they're not easily interchangeable. Each is attached to a complex system, and that system is at least as important as the body. The incentive to purchase a 5D3 (or 6D) over a D750 is still connected to the system behind it, the unique lenses, the ergonomics, the service, etc.

Khalai said:

There is a workaround, look on TDP site:

The Canon 70-300 L is officially NOT compatible with Canon extenders. This is the only Canon L zoom lens with a widest focal length of 70mm or longer that is not compatible with Canon extenders (as of review time). I've tried mounting Canon extenders to the 70-300 L - and they do not fit. The rear 70-300 L lens element physically hits the front element of the extender.

Then, in a major firmware update announcement for the Canon EOS 1D X, Canon included the 70-300 L and Canon EF 1.4x III Extender combo on a compatibility list.

Intrigued, I did more experimenting. What I learned is that the 70-300 L's rear element retracts into the lens far enough that, at about 250mm, there is enough clearance for Canon extenders to mount.

The available with-1.4x focal length range is about 350-420mm and 500-600mm with the 2x installed. Zooming out wider than the 250mm-or-so zoom ring mark results in a physical bump inside the lens. I'm guessing that it is the rubber around the edge of the extender element contacts the rear 70-300 L lens element or its barrel. I do not recommend mounting this combination due to potential damage the to lens.

I of course felt the need to try out these unsupported combinations. My solution to the damage risk issue was to Gaffer Tape the lens zoom ring to lock it at the 300mm mark while using extenders.

Mounting a 1.4x or 2x extender behind any lens reduces its aperture range by 1 or 2 stops respectively. At review time, only Canon 1-Series bodies can autofocus when using the very-dark f/8 max aperture the 70-300 L lens and 1.4x extender combination yields. Tested 1D X and 1Ds III bodies autofocused this combination.

No bodies can AF with the even-darker f/11 max aperture the 70-300 L and 2x combo yields. While it tries, the tested 1Ds III body cannot lock focus with this combination.

The interesting part of this story starts with the fact that the Canon Extenders do not report their presence when mounted behind the 70-300 L. The reported max aperture incorrectly remains f/5.6.

And what is much more interesting is that the 70-300 L and 1.4x combination's f/8 max aperture combination autofocuses even when mounted to the 60D (and presumably on most/all other Canon EOS bodies). Autofocus speed with the 1.4x extender is very, very slow on all tested bodies, but AF does work - even on the 60D.

Since I'm sure you are wondering what the image quality from these combinations looks like, here is a look at the Canon EF 70-300 L with EF 1.4x III Extender ISO 12233 image quality. Image softening from the 1.4x is very noticeable at f/8 in mid and outer regions of the image circle, though the center of the frame remains reasonably sharp. CA becomes pronounced with increasing amounts visible toward the outer image circle. Stopping down to f/11 results in modestly better image quality.

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Thank you. Kind of risky, I think I will try the Kenko first.

I ask myself the same question, for the same reason.

As it was really difficult to answer it, I focused on the most important features I wanted to see in a new body and I found the good combination. My dream camera would be a combination of the 6D and 70D called 6D mk II with all AF features of the 70D and the IQ of a FF sensor of the 6D. I do not know the development effort such a camera needs for canon, but I really hope they will add it to their product list. I want them to answer Nikon by releasing a good competitor to D750 for example. But please do not beat the MP count... It is not necessary.

So I decide to wait and see what's happening.

With the 6D you cannot be wrong if you don't need tracking a lot. For me IQ should really be your first focus. If you do not need the best AF and highest burst rate, you should also have a look to the 70D. I expect IQ of the 7D mk II and 70D to be really similar... But wait the first reviews anyway

LetTheRightLensIn said:

I imagine you are well familiar with the game and that should help. If you have ever played soccer at a decently high level that should really help your shooting the game even much moreso, especially if you were the sort of player who had a great head for the game and always saw where the ball would go next and how things were building.

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I would opine that this is more important than the equipment. Knowing the flow of the game so you can anticipate the shots. I feel that good sports shooter not only know photography but also know their sport.

Etienne said:

yorgasor said:

I've shot some long exposure scenes that were absolutely ruined by having IS turned on with my 70-200 2.8L IS II lens . I wouldn't trust it at all, even if it claims to have tripod detection.

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The effect must be different with video vs photo. I've filmed a lot on a tripod with that lens, and never saw a problem with the video. I have seen problems on long exposure photos though. And I've seen problems with the 24-105 when IS is on using a tripod. Also the 35 f/2 IS has never given me a problem with IS on.

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The issue is with speeds of many seconds. If you are shooting video with say a 1/50 speed then it is much different.

FYI the instructions in lens booklet (70-200 f/4 IS) was to turn off IS in Bulb mode. Shooting many seconds even without Bulb mode is similar...

Cgdillan said:

The Sl1 would be great and I've heard this is a pretty decent steady cam
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flycam-DSLR-Nano-Handheld-Camera-Stabilizer-Quick-Release-Steadycam-Rig-Stativ-/400738363377?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4dde27f1

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I can vouch for the Flycam. I currently have one and it's great. Mine didn't come with the arm brace and it would definitely help. I don't use mine much but that my fault more than a fault of the Flycam.

Plainsman said:

The dp iso 12233 crops suggest you have to stop down by 1 stop to get decent results - so then it's 600/8 up against the 600 prime at f/4!

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Mean while in the real world its a great combo that takes great shots. Why are some people so negative? (after looking at test shots not real life as well : )


LovePhoto - I've had this combo for a while now and it is my most used "lens" on the 1Dx ever since I got it. You should get some great shots with it.

The 70-200/2.8 is a beast and really heavy!
If you want to have a light, small (that is of course relative) travel setup, I'd go for:

-Canon 16-35/4 L for landscape, architecture, group shots etc.
-Sigma 50/1.4 A for people, street, low-light and creative stuff
-Canon 70-300/4-5.6 L for details, landscapes and every other telephoto use

The two Canons are the greatest travel lenses on earth and the Sigma is just stellar, but buy it with the USB dock and finetune your AF.