Crop camera upgrade

Sportsgal501 said:
Do you need it or just "want" a 7D Mark II? :-\

Tough question to answer, which is why I came here to get some insight. I would say that since I am not a pro, then I do not need it. However, I don't "need" my other gear either.

What I'm trying to discern is if there is any significant upside to getting this camera body for my future wildlife photographing opportunities.

timmy_650 said:
Have you thought about the 7D not the mark ii. The 7D is cheap now that mark 2 is out. It will give you the same picture quality as the t2i but the build quality is a lot better and so is the AF. One of the other big things about upgrading to a 7D is the button layout will be much closer to your 5D which will make switching between camera easier.

I did consider that. However, it seems like it may be a more marginal upgrade from my current crop body in terms of IQ (even more so than the 7D2). I've also heard that the antiquated AF system of the 7D may be frustrating, so I thought the 7D2 would make more sense to consider.

As I read through the feedback, I'm leaning more toward keeping my current bodies and utilizing each on this trip.
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6D video for sports

Marsu42 said:
thgmuffin said:
Also, since the 6D doesn't have the AA filter there is tons of moire. Honestly, it makes a lot of footage look like crap :-\

Unfortunately, you're wrong - the 6d does have an aa filter that also makes still shots softer, the moire is the result that downscaling to hd resolution cannot use "pixel binning" like on the 22mp 5d3 but needs to interpolate some of the 20mp lines - and the 6d is very bad at doing this.

They could just as easily do exact pixel binning on the 6D. They would just have to crop the image first.

  • At 720p, the sensor is 4.275 pixels per output pixel, so you could throw away the outer pixels (use a 1.07x crop factor) and then scale 4:1.
  • At 1080p, that approach would be more problematic, because the ratio is 2.85:1. Making it 2:1 would be a 1.43x crop factor, making it almost like shooting video on a crop body in terms of what it does to your field of view, but it still might be worth it if the results had less moiré.

With that said, it isn't just a question of binning. If you just bin a bunch of pixels together, you'll get more moiré, not less. You have to do the binning in combination with a digital low-pass filter that effectively does the low-res video equivalent of what the antialiasing filter does for stills. The real question is whether the 6D has the CPU power to do the low-pass filtering. If it doesn't, then binning won't help. And if it does, then someone could probably come up with a better algorithm for non-integer downsampling than whatever the 6D currently uses, resulting in video that is comparable to what you'd get with binning, but without the field-of-view change.
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Gyroscope stabilization from instagram - canon please implement this :D

I'd much rather see Canon bake the continuous gyroscope data into the EXIF tags and leave the processing to computers that actually have the CPU power to handle it. Ideally, they'd downsample the video footage and compress it at somewhere around 1280p instead of 1080p, leaving a nice margin so that when you process the footage, you'd still have 1080p, and they would show you the center portion of that footage so that in the absence of massive correction, what you see would be the final, cropped output.

That scheme would also have the advantage of being able to correct more robustly by virtue of being able to look at the entire set of data rather than trying to guess whether that was a shake or a deliberate pan. And when compensating for a particular shake would cause a black border, if you're working with the data all at once, you can retroactively adjust the center of previous frames to avoid the problem, or at least smooth it out in ways that you cannot accomplish in real time.

And just to clarify, lens IS does do this, but it isn't really designed for video; it is designed for holding the image dead still. For video, it is suboptimal, because that usually isn't what you want. You want motion to be smoothed out, not eliminated. Otherwise, when you hit the limit of its range, you get a nasty jerk in the picture.

As for "no downsampling", you're downsampling anyway. Just about nobody shoots RAW video. And with the 16:9 aspect ratio, you're throwing away pixels on the top and bottom no matter what, even after downsampling, because you don't use the full height of the sensor. Those pixels could be made available for post-processing... essentially for free, without even needing to crop, though you would probably want to crop a little bit to accommodate horizontal shake. And because vertical shake usually has the highest amplitude, that's a real win.
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Scott Kelby 7D Mark II Real World

privatebydesign said:
OrangeCrush said:
I know this may be a stretch but how likely would it be for the bodies that Scott tested to not be like the bodies that will be released? I forget the key words that were used something like AS Tested...how likely Canon could/would give him a couple of bodies that have cleaner out put than the ones that come off the production line?

Zero.

In fact the preproduction versions output is not normally not as good as the final production versions. They will keep playing with the code until the last possible minute, which is why a 'first' version is often FW 1.+.

A firmware update! Inconceivable! Inconceivable! This has never happened before!
EOS-1D X Firmware Version 2.0.3
EOS 5D Mark III Firmware Version 1.2.3
EOS 6D Firmware Version 1.1.4
EOS 7D Firmware Version 2.0.5
EOS 60D/60Da Firmware Version 1.1.1
EOS REBEL T5i / EOS 700D Firmware Version 1.1.3
EOS REBEL T3i / EOS 600D Firmware Version 1.0.2
EOS REBEL T3 / EOS 1100D Firmware Version 1.0.5

oh wait.... it has happened.... and this leads us to a more important question.... how come there hasn't been an update for the 70D post-release?
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Patent: Canon 2mm f/1.4 Lens for Small Sensors

Antono Refa said:
preppyak said:
Pag said:
I wonder how wide a (very improbable) full frame 2 mm lens would be...
I cant even imagine. This is what a 6mm lens looks like...a 2 mm lens would probably have to warp back over the camera body

nikkor_6mm_f28_fisheye_image.jpg

The 6mm lens is a circular fisheye, and for that focal length has to look backwards.

A rectilinear lens can't have an angle of view wider than 180mm, so it couldn't possibly look back.

This is the post-Einsteinian 21st Century - I demand greater physics! I reckon there's a visual equivalent to the Sonic Boom to be discovered, if only we can shave a few more millimetres offa' these UWA lenses...
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70-200 f2.8 IS mk 2 with 2x extender

neuroanatomist said:
I have the 70-200 II and both MkIII TCs, the combos are very good. For IQ, it's a wash between 70-200 II + 2xIII and 100-400, no real world difference (I owned the 100-400 for a few years, sold it for lack of use after getting the 600/4 II and having the 70-300L). I do find the 100-400 better from a handling standpoint (shorter collapsed length, better balance).

For a strap, check into Blackrapid...connected to the tripod foot of the lens, balance is great and it's quick to bring up and shoot. Bounces a bit if you move fast; in those situations I use a Spider Holster, which holds a 1-series plus 70-200/2.8 fine. I use Arca Swiss plates on body and lens collars, so I put a Kirk 1" clamp on the Blackrapid lug (with a little Loctite Blue), and Spider has an Arca clamp.

+1, I share this experience
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canon

Hello, zeki.

You appear to be a newcomer to this forum. Welcome. A little more detail will be required for us to understand the context to your post. An earlier post from you laments about the quality of your gear.

There are numerous experts on this forum only too willing to help you with your technique, equipment and ambitions. Just give them an opportunity. Don't give up and re-work your post, please.

Good luck.
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Upgrade?

Well, I am planning an upgrade from 60D to 7D2 to get maximum mileage out of my 400 f/5.6L no-IS. Biggest advantage will be a sophisticated AF system and higher burst rate/ adequate buffer (3 seconds worth, about the same as my 60D). I am willing to accept that the image quality will be less than the 1DX and 600mm (equivalent number of pixels on the bird - but bigger and better pixels). The advantage, and disadvantage, of the APS-C cameras is in the small pixels, which give greater pixel density (more pixels on the bird with any given focal length) but worse low-light performance than FF cameras. I want more focal length and wider aperture, but that's expensive. Probably the best low cost upgrade for me is the 7D2.
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Canon prevents me from buying the 7D Mark II

GmwDarkroom said:
There isn't a single BIOS on a motherboard made in the last 4-5 years that doesn't natively support USB mouse and keyboard natively (i.e. during POST). The only situation where this would not be true is someone having disabled USB in the BIOS or a faulty device -- the latter of which would mean you weren't going to be doing anything anyway. If the former is true, a simple reset will solve the problem.

The PS/2 port really just needs to be thrown on the techno trash heap with PCI, 15-pin VGA, and IDE to keep AGP, ISA, and IEEE 1284 ports company.

Well, I had problems with a USB keyboard working during POST, and nothing was disabled. Keyboard would not power up until after POST, and everything in BIOS was enabled to try and prevent the problem.

Internet searches to solve the problem led to others with similar issues.

It may not be common, but it does happen.

Yes, it could have been a keyboard compatibility issue. I didn't have another one to try out.
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"Cello" Short Film Shot With the Canon EOS 7D Mark II

Re: \

Tugela said:
The effective resolution on Canon prosumer camcorders in HD mode is around 800 lines. The consumer/prosumer DSLRs are considerably lower than that, and that is true for all Canon consumer models up to the 70D. I don't know specifically what the effective resolution in professional level cameras such as the 1DX is, it might be higher for those. The output from the 7D2 does not look to different from that from the 70D, both are unduly soft compared to competitor cameras.
Sounds good, thanks for the clarification.
I will rent one before buying if decide to go for it. My little nice wants one but I am hesitating as I haven't done much video on a crop sensor. She would use it in Africa so mainly day light.
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Your next high resolution display will be.... an APPLE 5K

xvnm said:
DominoDude said:
Rumours had it that it was a DELL manufactured monitor inside.

Neither Apple nor Dell manufacture display panels. They both use panels made by LG. Get your facts straight.

DominoDude said:
I'm happy to stay with my monitor for quite a while, only had it for 2 years. It was a lot cheaper than any Apple branded gear, and in no aspect worse.

Funny, the Dell UltraSharp 27" Ultra HD 5K Monitor which has the same screen size, resolution, and almost certainly uses the same display panel as the new iMac, costs $2499.99, or $0.99 (99 cents) more than the iMac. The iMac "display" comes with an entire top-of-the-line, fully spec'ed computer behind it. The Dell doesn't. Get your facts straight.

The Dell will probably start out with large sales then PLUS as mentioned the APple will probably use PWM dimming and probably even low frequency then. It almost certainly won't have wide gamut. Or internal LUT. Or screen uniformity controls.

That said, 5k is exciting all the same and I'd say the difference is certainly more overall noticeable for 4k/5k vs 1080p than for sRGB vs. wide gamut. And it's great to see more and more of this good hi-res stuff out there.
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Battery recharge performance

millan said:
I have the LP-E6 battery being manufactured in 2010. Recharge performance indicator shows one red square only, so according user manual I should consider buying a new one. However, I didn`t notice the battery has lower capacity in comparison with another one produced in 2012. Therefore I wonder what parameter camera evaluates for recharge performance. Isn`t it simple "planned obsolescence"?.

Dear Friend Mr. Millan
From the Staff : Canon Company= I have same problem many years ago, and I CALL CPS. ( Canon Professional Services )
Battery LP-E6 Performance: It’s a fact that rechargeable batteries have a finite number of charge-discharge-charge cycles they can go through, after which they can begin to lose their ability to hold a charge. While the LP-E6 should allow photographers hundreds of charge-discharge cycles, it’s useful for the working photographer to know whether a battery pack is nearing the end of its useful life after several years of use. The Battery Performance indicator does just that, with a 4-stage icon:

3 Green Squares: Battery is providing full performance each time it’s charged
2 Green Squares: Battery still producing good power each time charged, but not to the level of a brand-new LP-E6 battery pack
1 Green Square: Battery is nearing end of its useful life; full recharge will not deliver performance matching a new LP-E6 battery
1 Red Square: Battery has reached the end of its useful life, and should be discarded and replaced with a new LP-E6 battery pack. Recharging or re-conditioning will not enhance its performance.

Yes, Friend, Just us that Old canon Battery as the spare, Please Buy Wasabi 2 batteries = $ 30 US Dollars ( $15 EA.)= 2600 mAh, Come with Charger= Better than 1800 mAh Canon original Battery.

http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-2-Pack-Charger/dp/B0049XGNKK/ref=pd_cp_p_0

Good luck.
Surapon

PS, Yes, You can buy Real Canon LP-E6 at the Adorama = $ 60 US Dollars too, but just 1800 mAh.
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Do date codes matter?

My opinion - individual date codes do not matter. For example, UA vs UB vs UC, is not really going to make any sort of difference at all. However, many lenses are manufactured for a long time... some are even decades old.

A UB (2013) vs a UM (1998) could be a significant difference though. Either way, take your time to evaluate the individual copy of the lens.
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