A vote for the Sigma 150 here.

SNOPPY1 said:

THE OTHER LENS IS A CANON 28-80MM $500 IS WITH THE GRIP OR WITH OUT?? HERE IS A LIST OF EVERYTHING I AM OFFERING.

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Like I said... 900 is about right. The 28-135 and the 28-80 are older lenses... and they aren't very impressive... at least not compared to the 18-135, 24-105, etc. The grip adds value to the package, but on its own isn't worth very much. Just the way things are... so maybe someone will give you $900... but if you tried to sell everything separately... you would probably receive WAY less.

I can't speak to the manfrotto gear... I'm ignorant.

70-200 is so narrow, you won't get any advantage over the 24-70.

Viggo said:

Stu said:

I have 4 600EX RTs and the ST-E3. The Canon ETTL-II TTL system seems to throw these off. When I have my camera in manual mode and the flash units on ratio the exposure values vary greatly as I move around on the set. I have not been able to figure this out. Over exposure up close and under exposure at a distance. That is what I had with my ST-E2 and my 580EX IIs. In order to overcome this I just change lenses to get the "sweet spot" for the flash. It is irritating enough to me to consider dumping them and moving to Profoto's new B1 strobes. Ideas?

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Use them in Manual, ettl I still find completely useless..

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ETTL is far from useless, but you have to understand what it is doing, what its strengths are, and how easy it is to completely confuse it.

The entire point of ETTL is to automatically deal with changing light to subject distances, not camera to subject distances. If you are using multiple static lights then ETTL will never give consistent results if you move around a subject, the light on the subject changes and the flashes are trying to give a "correct" illumination of the subject.

Take this as an example. One light on a stand next to the photographer pointing at the subject, the subject gets even illumination and is an easy ETTL task, move the light back three feet and shoot again, ETTL deals with that effortlessly, put the light in a softbox, again ETTL deals with that effortlessly. Now, leave the light where it is but walk around the subject so the light is falling at 90º to them, sidelight. The ETTL exposure calculation is now basing the flash exposure on only half the light it was before, you will tend to get a one stop over exposure of the subject. Now walk around the subject a bit further, to say 140º, rimlight. Now the ETTL calculation is basing the flash exposure on only 10% or so subject illumination, it is going to blow out the edges by giving the flash full power to try to light the entire subject. This is not what ETTL is designed for.

If a light in ETTL is only illuminating a small section of the subject ETTL will "fail".

Now picture this, on camera flash for fill and two lights on stands either side of a dance floor where the subjects and photographer are moving. The subject distance to the remote flashes doesn't change much so they can go in manual, if the floor is small and the lights closer the distances change more so ETTL will work better. The on camera flash distance does change, put that in ETTL and you will get consistent flash exposures. Or put a light on the end of a pole with an assistant that kinda tracks the subject, ETTL will adjust for that too. As it will for bounce flash etc etc.

If you want to save money, get the YongNuo version of the st-e3-rt, the yn-e3-rt.

There has been great reviews of this unit on threads here on the forum...I'm gonna get one soon myself.


http://yn.eachshot.com/product/yongnuo-speedlite-wireless-transmitter-yn-e3-rt-for-canon-cameras-as-st-e3-rt/

Drizzt321 said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I'd probably just lock my self out, but hackers would have no issue. There are always loopholes in security schemes.

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Yup, steal the private key! Unless you use crappy settings and short length key to create the key, or keep the private key somewhere easy to access, unencrypted/no password/crappy password.

Or at least, that's what law enforcement will do. Oh, wait, they'll just make a bogus claim and force you to turn over the private key </sarcasm & tinfoil hat>

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You might give them the key, but you don't have to give them the password. Just make sure and have properly difficult passwords.



OH, and if law enforcement is involved, the smartest thing is to immediately LAWYER UP, and you shut up, don't tell them a thing.

https://www.youtube.com/user/FlexYourRights

I recently bought Canon 90EX Flash (which is usually bundled with Canon EOS M) as a master trigger on my 5DM3 to control 430EX. I wasn;t ready to spend $300 on a Canon Trigger or a more expensive 600RT yet.

I called Canon Tech Support to verify if it is compatible with 5DM3 before I bought it.

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Speedlite-90EX-Flash-Camera/dp/B00GFWBOFC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390579113&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+90ex

I use this solely for family portraits. It works well for the money. As long as the slave Flashes (upto groups of 4) are in line of sight it works. Very light weight. The 90EX flash itself is just for fancy and does not illuminate the object like 430Ex though.

Hope this helps

Balaji

I'm shooting in SE Asia right now, where I've been for over 3 months. The 24-105 cannot be beat for focal range versatility and not having to change lenses out on the street. That said, I also brought a 35mm f/2 (smaller, lighter, cheaper than L) and it has quickly become my favorite street lens--when and if you can get up close and personal. At home I have a 100L and love it to death, but travel requires doing more with less.

Email sent to [email protected]. Also posted on their official Facebook page. Apparently they replied to another post stating that they can service/repair flash units, but I'm still waiting for a response to my email.

gshocked said:

Hi,

I recently purchased the Lumiquest Event kit and have been using the Quick Bounce a lot.
Its great if you are shooting out doors and on a sunny day and want a bit of fill light to light up the subjects face. Also works well when you don't have a roof low enough to bounce off. Hence, why I went with this and not a Gary Fong Lightsphere..

The quick bounce also allows you to open up these little barn doors, which claims to let 80% of light out and then you get 20% of light reflected at you subject. I also have tried closing just one of the doors, which is suppose to bounce 40% of light.

I found this nice review on it, which I'll post up when I find it again.

This is one of the few English videos on youtube about this product. Its biased as he owns the company, I think, but at least it gives you an idea on how it works:

http://youtu.be/gjG96-MVoi0

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This looks like a nice option! I often use an 8" soft box on my speedlite at events, but there are times I want to bounce flash off a wall or the ceiling. Taking the soft box on and off with the Velcro attachments can be inconvenient at times. I think I'll get one of these.

jrista said:

Only thing I can think is that the registration distance of mirrorless cameras is so small that maybe flare is exacerbated by slight reflection off the sensor. The registration distance of DSLR's is much larger, so any kind of reflection off the sensor will fall of to almost nothing by the time it reaches the lens again. With EOS-M, or pretty much any other mirrorless camera, the registration distance is only a couple/few millimeters.

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That was my first thought, except he's using a 40mm pancake lens so the registration distance will be exactly the same as if it were on an EF mount DSLR.

AcutancePhotography said:

Rienzphotoz said:

AcutancePhotography said:

gshocked said:

I like most of their videos but I do wish they put a bit more thought into substance vs humor.

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I am a big fan of DigRevTv. But I have to say that this particular video lacks either.

No where factual to be useful
Not really all that funny to be entertaining.

I think Kai kinda phoned this one in.

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In comparison to many of his more entertaining videos, yes I agree.

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Besides without Alamby, it just ain't that good.

I hope she is still with them. She has not been in the past few videos. She really added a lot to the videos.

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Yeah I wondered about her sudden disappearance ... she was a cute little thing that added that extra zing to the videos.

Canon Direct usually has refurbs available for around $1500.

Wide open, the 135 + 1.4x is fairly soft and not a match for the 200 2.8, but stopped down a bit, it's not bad. This combo was actually one of my earlier "wildlife" lenses, which worked decently on a crop body.

Here's a peek at the performance:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=108&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=3&API=1&LensComp=245&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

And a sample of what the combo can do at f/4:

Hjalmarg1 said:

kdw75 said:

I stumbled upon this and thought I would share.

<scam link removed by mod>

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When it is to good to be true, then it's a scam

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Well, it wasn't that good. I bought mine for $1450 last week from Amazon.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Quasimodo said:

I might have given up to easily... Which brand do you use?

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I use Sensor Swabs (Brand) and moisten them with eclipse fluid. I've had a lot of junk get on my sensors from the pec pads I bought, and from the pre-moistened Sensor Swabs.
Good sensor swabs are not cheap, and when it takes 5 of them plus the expensive eclipse fluid, I cringe. $32 for a dozen ff sized dry ones plus you need the eclipse fluid.

Most of the time, a rocket blower does the job, but I've had some gunk that was difficult to remove on my 5D MK II and my 1D MK III.

Amazon has them.

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I am wondering if those are the ones I have. I have to check when I get home from the office

Is that all?

Zv said:

Dylan777 said:

EVEN BETTER: http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/hasselblad-to-launch-50-megapixel-sony-cmos-sensor-based-medium-format-camera/

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Better but more expensive. The current Hasselblad 50mp is $26,000!! And that's without a lens!

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A local auction house is selling a lot of collectibles from Marvin Carr's Museum in Spokane. I thought this one was interesting.

http://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/17573

Sochi is a much safer place to be than Chicago/Philly or downtown Hartford

Right now, it appears that Canon is going to concentrate on the dual pixel design. It has some fantastic potentials for doing away with the mirror and penta prism if they can continue to improve it.

I might even find video with a DSLR to be practical for a casual shooter. I used my 5D MK III for a few minutes of video last Thursday. The results were good when the subjects were in focus, but it was very dark in the theater, and depth of fields was shallow. My 70-200mmL is not only NOT parfocal, it changes focus drastically when I zoom, and I can't get critical focus during a clip, I'm manual focus compromised. My 24-70 is closer to being par focal, but still not that good. I also did not put the camera in manual, so the aperture would change causing flickering of the image.

Thanks. Not all landscape photos have sky all the way across the top, and I can imagine plenty of uses with water and for saturation. Plus, I wasn't aware until recently that rainbows are polarized and can be enhanced or suppressed with the CPL. The large Cpolarizer will be the next purchase, I think. By that time I will have more experience with using ND grads and can see if I want the 105mm CPL to be used on the Lee holder, or the 82mm CPL, to be used directly on the lens. My preference would be the 82mm, just for cost. At least I am well set for all my other lenses, with a 72mm CPL and a bunch of rings.

I'm not sure how you came to the conclusion that the Elinchrom can do HSS, at least in the sense that Canon uses the term HSS. In Canon's world of HSS, the flash outputs a rapid sequence of very short flash pulses which, as the slit shutter progresses across the frame, create sort of even lighting across the frame.

The yongnuos and the odins translate the E-TTL protocol, shove it across a wireless link, and then forward the whole protocol, including the trigger pulse, to your flash. Your Elinchrom ignores the whole E-TTL chatter and doesn't bother sending an E-TTL preflash. It sees only the trigger pulse, and then fires at the power setting you manually set it to. Since the flash pulse is quite long in time, you see mostly uniform lighting, but it's still just one single flash pulse you get.

If you look at the images you posted here, you'll see an interesting effect: in the shot taken at 1/200s, the wall is brighter at the top of the frame, because that's where your flash seems to be pointed at. The shot taken at 1/500s suddenly shows the top of the frame darker than the bottom, which means the flash already got weaker as your shutter slit progressed across the frame. Remember, as far as your image is concerned, the shutter slit goes from bottom to top. With 1/8000s this effect is less pronounced as shown by your images, because your flash output decreases less during 1/8000s than during 1/500s.

So what have you got: a system for wirelessly transmitting E-TTL, which means the whole protocol stuff happens long before the camera sends the trigger signal, and the actual trigger signal can be relayed blazingly fast, fast enough for 1/8000s. Since nothing your studio flash does in really E-TTL specific, there is no reason why is shouldn't work with any wireless flash transmitter that does E-TTL.

It has been mentioned previously that Hasselblad is going to collaborate with Sony, possibly to use new Sony sensors in its medium format cameras. Today British Journal of Photography published a short article, which says that Hasselblad is going to release a CMOS sensor-based medium format camera with "much greater ISO performance". No mentioning of the size of the sensor or other technical characteristics, though.

http://www.bjp-online.com/2014/01/hasselblad-to-launch-cmos-sensor-based-medium-format-camera/

ishdakuteb said:

well... i am receiving a pm from aglet due to my previous post. below is the whole content and i personally do not really mind that i am being banned from the site if the admin feels that that is the right thing to do.

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Sending a private message that implies the sender has the ability to get you banned is a misuse of the private messaging system, and is more likely to get the sender banned if it is deemed serious enough.


Bans are generally issued only after repeated warnings and a series of issues with a member. The mods have their own forum where they discuss bans. In clear cut cases, a ban is just issued, and noted in the forum along with a copy of the offending post.

We look at each reported post to decide what action to take, if any. Mostly, they result in a deleted post, or if there are a lot of posts that we have to remove in a topic, we may lock it.