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Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 20, 2013

Actually, Zeiss glass is used in B&W and in Heliopan Filters.

Its a bit roundabout, Zeiss owns Schott which sells filter glass to the two companies. Its not clear if Zeiss also uses glass from Schott, but Schott is very big in the glass business.

http://www.photofilter.com/helio1.htm

lion rock · Nov 20, 2013

Actually, the Rokinon 14/2.8 is quite a nice lens, much better than the price suggests.
In fact, I'll be taking it with me for landscape photography in Hong Kong and Vietnam next week.
Attached is one I took in the lobby at an art show.
-r

fragilesi · Nov 20, 2013

Rienzphotoz said:
paul13walnut5 said:

fragilesi said:

With a final thanks to everyone who offered help / opinion on this thread I have jut decided to make the jump and order the 70d. Very excited!

Please, rules of this thread are now that no-one may say a bad word about this decision or suggest I should have waited / bought something else! ;D

I will be back some time later to reflect on my impulsive abuse of the credit card ;D

Click to expand...

Awww man!, the 80D's gonna have RAW and XLR inputs. Shoulda waited.

Click to expand...

I hear the 90D will be even better ;D

Darn, that'll teach me to be more patient in future

mackguyver · Nov 20, 2013

Neuro's example was the main one I was talking about and it's pretty sad they didn't publish a retraction. There was another review where they just changed the text, but I can't remember which one it was.

I wouldn't say their data is worthless, however. The scores, yes, the analysis, most times, but their measurements are pretty reliable. I've found the measurements on sharpness, CA, distortion, and vignetting to match my lens with the exception of my 180mm f/3.5L, which is extremely sharp in my experience, vs. their measurements. My guess is that they measured it a telephoto distance, where it has average performance, instead of at macro distance, where it is superb.

If you use the tools yourself, and compare lens metrics, not scores, it's a great and FREE resource.

InterMurph · Nov 19, 2013

It looks like the FlexTT5 just isn't designed to do that. Sorry!

Don Haines · Nov 19, 2013

paul13walnut5 said:
With a grip the camera is nicely ballanced, there weren't any long fast aperture zooms to play with (do they exist?) but I really liked the 45 & 75.

I have an Oly 50-200 F2.8-3.5....it is a NICE lens and would fit a micro 4/3 with an adaptor... and weather sealed to boot... quite a step up from the F5.6 and 6.3 kit lenses...

Nov 19, 2013

Morlin said:
I guess it will be the same for me. Most of the time I will have a Gimbal head stuck on because the only times I use a tripod so far is in the woods. Maybe some landscape photography in the future but for those days I will prepare even before I leave home.

I will buy the RRS leveling base also. Actually that one has been cheaper than the Gitzo leveling base. At least what I have found so far.

On top of the RRS leveling base is a 3/8" threaded stud, the gimbal head threads down onto that, but you can easily unthread it and mount a ballhead instead. Personally, I got the RRS leveling base with clamp, so I don't even need to unthread it, just open the lever; but, unscrewing it really doesn't take that long.

In fact, the leveling base is great for landscapes, if you shoot panoramic shots. Almost all good ballheads have a panning base, but for that to work properly for a pano shot, the tripod platform needs to be level. If you've ever tried leveling a tripod by adjusting the legs, you'll know that cam be a pain. The RRS leveling base has a bubble level, so getting a level base for a pano shot with a ballhead is really easy.

ajfotofilmagem · Nov 19, 2013

The camera may activate a low voltage warning, which could cause data loss due to failure in writing the card after a sequence of quick shots. I believe that use two batteries can avoid the problem.

rpt · Nov 19, 2013

RGF said:
Pi said:

"In case"?

Click to expand...

are you planning or fearing something?

I think he meant to say "In case I die first"...

RGF · Nov 19, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Shouldn't be. Main reason is the foot needs to extend behind the mounting screws for proper balance with a TC, especially with a gripped/1-series body.

Got it. Thanks

Don Haines · Nov 19, 2013

unfocused said:
LookingThroughMyLens81 said:

unfocused said:

Agree that Canon is likely phasing it out. I don't know of any cases where Canon has kept a camera in the lineup for long after its direct replacement has been announced. (Although they did seem to keep the 5DII for quite a while, but I think that was just an interim strategy until the 6D was announced, since the 5DII and 5DIII are significantly different cameras.)

I'm not sure, though, that it's correct to say the 60D is not selling well. The 60D body is still hanging in there at #9 on the Amazon best sellers chart, which is pretty impressive for a body that's been replaced. And, the refurbished store is now sold out of all 60D bodies and only has the 18-135 kit in stock.

Actually, its the 7D which doesn't seem to be selling all that well right now. It's barely in the top 50 of DSLRs on Amazon and the Canon refurbished store has more than 500 in stock. That may reflect that the 70D offers almost all the features of the 7D plus a few more, all at a slightly lower price while the 60D is selling at bargain basement prices right now.

Click to expand...

The 7D has never sold well. It just doesn't fit in the marketplace that is stuffed with lower costing cameras. The best thing Canon can do in the future is to slim down it's DSLR line so that there are clear differences between the segments and to increase profitability by pushing the next generation of lenses in the retail markets.

Click to expand...

That's absolutely not true. The 7D has been a very good seller for Canon. Does it match the volume of Rebels sold? Of course not. But, none of the enthusiast and professional cameras have ever come close to Rebels in sales.

The 7D has consistently been among the top sellers on Amazon since it was first announced. It is now four years old and still among the top 50 best selling DSLRs – no small accomplishment, especially as most buyers have been anticipating a replacement for a year now. Something which has undoubtedly cut into sales.

When it was introduced Canon clearly differentiated the 7D from other models in its lineup. Later, when the 60D was introduced, the differences between the 60D and the 7D were significant.

In order to upgrade the 60D Canon had to incorporate many of the features of the 7D into the 70D, or there would have been no reason for buyers to choose the 70D. So, today, 70D buyers are getting a camera with a marginally improved sensor and four-year old autofocus technology. If you shoot stills, the 7D is still a better choice, although not as much of a better choice as it was against the 60D.

This idea that the market cannot support a flagship APS-C body has been tossed around many times before on this forum, always without any evidence, information or research to support such statements.

The more expensive the camera the worse the sales

The 1DX is probably the worst selling camera in the Canon Line-up.

We can argue about the need or demand for crop cameras of various capabilities, but in terms of raw numbers sold, it is the Rebels that are keeping the lights on at the factory... and the number of people who are so quick to defend the 7D and the number of people who seem so anxious to see a 7D2 would indicate that there is a pent-up demand for higher end crop bodies..

The line-up used to be 60D and 7D. It will be 70D and 7D2. Don't think of the 70D 7D lineup as anything more than a temporary blip... The only thing that some superior features of the 70D over the 7D means is that you can expect the 7D2 to be even better....

The 60D is a darn good camera.... but the 70D is superior in almost every way... eventually stock will be gone and that will be the end of it. The 7D2 will have about as much impact on 70D sales as the 1DX has on 5D3 sales.... at that level, you know what you want and you get it....

J.R. · Nov 19, 2013

Yep, the shutter is probably fried if you are getting only half images. BTW, what is the error message you are getting?

P_R · Nov 19, 2013

TrabimanUK said:
Eye focussing? Whatever happened to that then?

Same thing as hydro pneumatic suspension on Citroens, or variable strength air bags... :-(

would love to see some interesting feature on the canon flagship. 'interesting' as in a little out there and eye control would do it! as would having focus points over the entire sensor area, or a sensor which uses more of the imaging circle (think square, round, cross shaped!)...I could go on!

wayno · Nov 19, 2013

I don't think it's either of those but I suppose the button switch is possible. I have set a shortcut button for that. Thanks for that thought... Will keep an eye on it.

CreationHeart · Nov 19, 2013

good news is you dont need a DSLR to achieve insane macro photography. I recently came across a post whereby someone DIY a rig to mount a reversed lens to a compact camera with its zoom maxed out. And the subjects he photographed were snowflakes!

alexanderferdinand · Nov 19, 2013

Yes, the best camera is the one which is available/in your hands.

I am going to visit Rome in February. Was there before two times.
With my 5dIII. Some lenses. One flash.
And my Sony RX100.

I want to make some big prints from the pictures I take there.
Therefore: nice pictures, but I am sacrifying some of my human power to carry my backpack.
(Comfortable ThinkTank Streetwalker HD, can only recommend it).

I love Italy!!

captainkanji · Nov 18, 2013

I believe I've solved the problem. There were some issues after the firmware update. I had to remove the batteries from the TCU, reinstall and then power up. Then I had to press the 'Clear' button for 2.5 seconds to reset the TCU. It appears to have solved the issue. I now have a fully functional battle station

Valvebounce · Nov 18, 2013

Hi Paul.
Well that answers those questions thanks. ;D
I'm going to guess that an expensive Loewe CRT is one that might not react well to out of limit signals?

Cheers Graham.

Kit. · Nov 18, 2013

traveller said:
The way I see it, if camera A reports ISO1600 and shows a SNR of say 26dB and camera B reports the same ISO and SNR, what does it matter if the sensor output from camera A is only at ISO800 and has been brightened in software? To the photographer, the output looks the same.

To the photographer, the output from camera A should look better, because of (potentially) better highlight control.

lux · Nov 18, 2013

I would usually take 40 2.8 over 50 1.4 let alone 50 1.8.

Nov 18, 2013

Yup, I would shoot 30fps (29.97) for NTSC unless you were absolutely going to project in a 24fps only environment.

Nov 18, 2013

Not using. Seemed an expensive fix for something that I can largely deal with in post.

My feeling was that you can to some degree remove moire, you can't put back in what an aggressive AA filter has taken out, without sharpening, which in itself can be horrific.

I shoot with sharpness 1 notch below middle.
I put a .5px gaussian blur over video layers as a matter of course.
I ensure the field order is set to progressive from my APR transcodes, to my timeline to my output format or disc encoding settings.

I can recall two occassions where moire was very intrustive, and on those occassions I used a second layer with heavy Marvels filter on it and unaffected areas revealed using garbage mattes

ShootingStars · Nov 18, 2013

Thanks for the tips privatebydesign. I will test it out.

And Jonathan, 5D3 focus in low light is dependent on lens. A 70-200 2.8 II will focus in low light much better than an 85 1.2. If you want reliable snap focus while shooting, a focus beam is a must. The pro of the 5D3 focus is focus accuracy, even on the side cross points.

polarhannes · Nov 18, 2013

It is also good for panoramas as the nodal point is not too much off. Of course a real setup is better, but the pancake does the job quite well compared to its price.

Nov 18, 2013

Generally speaking, it's good...not stellar but it works.

Only problem is...FF corners NEVER get sharp - at any aperture.* Center and mid-frame resolution is decent however.

*Seems to depend on the shot, actually. When most of what you're shooting is in the same plane or close enough, it's fine. However, landscapes with both far and near objects...struggles mightily, more so than any other lens I have.

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