wickidwombat said:

with the 20 set f8 hard stop infinity and everything from 2m to infinity is in focus anyway its a wicked point and shoot when used like this.

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I have a 12mm Samyang that I use on my Sony, and I've not quite figured out what is the 'ideal' setting for that lens. I use focus peaking but found that OOF areas with high contrast are still shown as being in focus. Wide angle MF can be really challenging, and I think I need more practice to build the necessary confidence.

As the saying goes...ask and you will receive....

You're right...don't know why I couldn't get this to work before...or why cps told me I couldn't...
but it's working just fine now!

Thank you Jim!!!!

Aha! I had trouble finding out where to post my shot, but this is probably better than my first ideas like posting in "Milky Way" or "Animal Kingdom"...

I'm quite sure that in the area I shot this lurks a farmer/artist/painter with way too much time on his hands.

I will force myself to use mine tonight at an outdoor concert with Playing for Change. It'll be raining. It'll be (almost) dark, so I don't have to be so ashamed to put it on my camera - no one will recognize it. And I don't care all that much if it gets soaked. If I shoot enough there might be a single keeper to publish later on tonight. I don't fear that the shots will be soft, just that there is a close to infinite chance that they won't be sharp where I want them to be.

I have to admit, from all of the city trips I have made I think 90% of the time I could live with the 24-70II alone.

Even tho I am usually flying and thus have a weight restriction I usually take a selection of lens including some heavy longer glass (70-200 2.8 etc) and again most of the time I could have got by with *just* the 24-70 and maybe a teleconverter at most.

Enjoy the trip, make a stop at the restaurant at the base of the ESB as they have some lovely beers and see if you are lucky to catch a storm while out there as if they temp close the deck atop the ESB you can shoot right up without the usual hour+ queue and as soon as it passes you are first out on the deck.

Just got one for my MFT mount Oly E-M10. I'm really looking forward to making some images with this thing.
For a mere $220, delivered, this has to be the undervalued lens deal of the year!
It's corner-to-corner sharp, wide open, on MFT. Not sure how it fares on the NEX.

I thought the moderate 2.8 aperture would be a bit of a bokeh handicap but it's likely to be just fine for most of the shots I'll use it for and the bokeh is looking pretty smooth on the few scenes I've composed with it so far.
Min focus distance is about enough to make a bit more than the palm of my hand fit the whole frame.
It even includes a nice nylon carrying case and a hood.

If you've been craving the impressive performance of the Olympus 75mm f/1.8 but balk at the cost, this is a lot more affordable and darn near as sharp if you check the charts on DxOmark.

Some outlining and a bit of onionskin on out of focus highlites is the worst thing I can see about its performance.
AF is quick and almost silent, likely suitable for video even with in-camera mic's.

It's not very large physically either, tho it is a bit odd looking with the smooth finished barrel, all of which is an MF ring.

I recommend it, good value for the money, especially at this price.

www.sigmaphoto.com/product/60mm-f28-dn-a

I liked using the panorama mode as a strip camera. That was cool.

The under water housing was cool, but I can see a lot of wet phones resulting, at least with a glass that small.

Very nice Glenn !! would be awesome to go on one of your workshops but they are all sold out for 2015 except for Peru hmmm tempting

Clearly this guy was hopeless. Never make it as a photographer. Shadows need to be lifted big time. This hardly even looks like a pepper.

thanks for your help guys

raptor3x said:

Found a picture of the insides of the D300. Same full metal skeleton as the D800/1D/D4 so I don't really think this kind of build quality can be that expensive to produce.

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Nice but our D300 died after only roughly 90.000 shutter actuations, its mirror mechanism is broken and repair cost would have overtopped its value. So its chassis is a nice coffin for a dead camera...

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Go to Canon price watch. They list the best of the gray market sellers. There are some like Abes of Main that they refuse to list.

http://www.canonpricewatch.com/product/03868/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-price.html

Personally, I'd go for the CPW street price deal and get a authorized seller of US models for $200 more. Canon has been reported to be tightening up on servicing gray market cameras under warranty recently.

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+1

"Street price" right now for an authorized Canon dealer is about $150 more and I'd sleep a whole lot better at night paying this much more. Some non-authorized dealers are very reputable and I would consider buying from them but some are not. Beware.

tat3406 said:

check this link.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1388461

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Very cool. Makes me consider buying it. One thing I'd like to point out to anyone who fits a crop lens to a FF or 1.3 crop camera, don't be afraid to shoot with a little vignetting. It can provide a cool look that can set a photo apart from the rest.

I spotted a guy shooting a Sigma 18-35 f1.8 when i was a t a bike race. I swapped my 8-15 for his lens for a few minutes and shot way. But I was shooting a 1D mark 4, and at 11mm i god some vignetting. So what? it was cool.

REX18741 by RexPhoto91, on Flickr

eg1dio said:

Canon Rumors said:

United Kingdom, Republic of Ireland

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I find this a bit confusing, UK or Republic of Ireland?

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Both.

Keith_Reeder said:

Just some Real World experience to add to the mix: the 7D will AF usefully quickly for bird photography at f/8 (eg Canon 100-400mm and taped or non-reporting 1.4x TC) off the central AF points. Use it on the peripheral points, and it's actually not bad at all.

For example - 600mm, handheld, (Kenko non-reporting 1.5 TC), peripheral AF point on the bird's eye.

And another.

The 70D (mine, and that of at least two other users that I asked to test this) will AF at f/8 on all AF points. Again, it's not lightning fast, but it works.

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I put Keith's suggestion to work and the AF is pretty fast with my 7D with the 100-400 and a 1.4X non-reporting TC. You need decent light with nice contrast in your subjects. I got some nice shots with the sun behind some clouds this afternoon. Heavy shade was a bust as was shade with the sun behind clouds with a low contrast subject. Moving subjects are an issue when coming more or less directly at you or heading away. I did not get an opportunity to try with subjects moving in a more parallel vector.

preppyak said:

Especially since there has been no specific rumored spec that makes me think its some crazy departure from the line.

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65 point all cross type AF and 10 fps probably count for at least a 10% price boost. That plus inflation and I'm thinking it will be solidly over $2k, probably between $2100-2300. That's my guess, go ahead and surprise me Canon

Mt Spokane Photography said:

At 3,000.00, a used 1D MK IV will be a far better camera than a $1800 7D MK II.

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$3k for a 1DIV? $2500 seems like more of the going market rate, going by ebay completed listings. Hell, there's a few that sold for <$2k. I wouldn't be surprised if the cost of a used 1DIV and a 7DII were about the same. That's about how it was for used 1DIII vs 7D iirc.

Great, I'll give these tips a shot. Thanks.

When I was useing crop, this was my main walk around lens.

An oldie from 2007 from the El Doinyo Lengai vulcano in Tanzania. EOS 30D with 17-85 @22mm, ISO 100, 1/125, f/16, handheld.

2 very old ones (2006) of moss flowers taken with the Sigma 180mm

Both on a EOS 10D body, 1/90, f/3.5, tripod

neuroanatomist said:

It seems reasonable that algorithms intended to predict motion may not be optimal for static subjects.

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That's absolutely true. Camera pointing at a fixed targed, it will continually adjust, even if slightly. If it's a scene where AF was difficult in the first place like a small low contrast subject against a confusing fore/background (a bird inside a shrub, for example), it will sometimes jump way behind target, even though nothing related to the subject has moved. In my experience, anyway.

wickidwombat said:

Andyx01 said:

So like many, I have de-coupled the half shutter press from AF, and instead use the AF-ON button to Auto Focus.

Boom - no more hesitation when the trigger is pulled waiting for the lens to re-focus.

What's missing though is a second AF-ON button / Dedicated SERVO mode.

How many of you toggle between "Single Shot" and "Servo" ?

Is it just me, or it would it be sooooooo nice to have them both at your fingertip?

Switching between C1/2/3 isn't a good alternative, esp with a locked dial.

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5d3 and 1 DX can program the dof button to do this

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Just note that, at least on the 5D, it doesn't switch it permanently, only as long as the button remains depressed.

I generally have my camera in "M" + one shot. DOF preview switches to servo in case I need it unexpectedly, otherwise I do use the C modes for Av + servo, with various apertures and EC's dialed in.

Here’s my take:

The term "fine Detail" means same old stuff.

What is it going to take for Canon to get moving with sensor technology! With what appears to be yet another major camera launch with a sensor already behind the competition I just don't get it!
I hope I'm wrong but if they stuffed the 70D sensor into this body it is a failure from the day it is launched. The pace by which Canon takes in designing their replacements means you’re stuck with that junk for 4-6 years and by then my camera phone will probably be taking pictures better than that!

I was hoping Canon might break out of their mold and become innovative and put some real new technology sensor in their "Flagship APS-C model", I should know better. I would expect this model to exhibit best in class low light and larger DR of any APS-C camera on the market, after all we are talking about a Canon Flagship, top of the line model here right? I'm certain that the price will reflect that, but I have serious doubts that the camera will perform to that level. All the other features are a moot point if the sensor does not knock it out of the park in DR and low light performance.

That's my two cents, and I’m afraid Canon has lost me I think, just can't justify the investment any longer. I’ll keep what I have a while longer but I will be moving on, and likely away from Canon, as sad as I am to have to make the transition I see no future in this wretched course.

dgatwood said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

privatebydesign said:

As I said, my MkIII's (though they are 1Ds's) slow down when I put SD cards in them, the fastest rates I get with the various cards I actually own are when I just have Sandisk CF cards in the CF slot and nothing in the SD slot, every SD card I own is slower than the various CF cards I own.

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You are correct. Even the fastest SD cards are blown away by a fast CF card. In a mark III, the fastest write speed you will get with SD is 10mB/sec, most are 5. The card specs are misleading to a extreme.

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No, the specs of the flash card aren't misleading. Fast speeds simply require you to have a device that supports that speed. Unfortunately, the 5D Mark III doesn't support UHS-I, so the flash card falls back to pre-UHS-I speeds.

AFAIK, the only Canon DSLRs that support UHS-I speeds are the 6D, the 70D, the SL1, the T4i, and the T5i. On the 6D, the difference between a 30 MBps Sandisk card and a 95 MBps Sandisk card is like night and day.

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Yes, they are misleading. They only apply to a new card. As soon as you use the card, and do a normal in camera format, the speed drops to 10MB/sec. To recover the speed, you need to do a low level format / erase of the SD card. Do that with a 64GB card, and you will be waiting for it to finish for a long time, since it must write 0's to every memory sell on the card.

People believe the hype without understanding the limitations. You do not see the issue with CF cards. My 1D MK III was far faster with a CF card.

Sometimes the specs are up front about this. For example, they post a maximum and minimum speed here. The Maximum speed is only for a blank card in a camera with UHS-1. A Class 10 card has a 10MB/sec minimum write speed, and that is what users will see once the card has been written to.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/844763-REG/SanDisk_SDSDU_064G_A11_64GB_SDXC_Memory_Card.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/917678-REG/sony_sf64uy_tqmn_64gb_sdxc_memory_card.html

The only time I use the simulated low ISO settings is when I don't have an ND filter with me and I need to use a longer shutter speed.

Here is one opinion on the matter

http://blog.grantkaye.com/why-not-to-use-iso-50-on-canon-dslrs/

From
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dynamic-range.htm

"In some digital cameras, there is an extended low ISO setting which produces less noise, but also decreases dynamic range. This is because the setting in effect overexposes the image by a full f-stop, but then later truncates the highlights — thereby increasing the light signal. An example of this is many of the Canon cameras, which have an ISO-50 speed below the ordinary ISO-100."

My opinion? Only use ISO50 when you need it and ISO100 won't give you the shot you want. Other than that, stick with the native ISOs. I would not normally shoot at ISO50.

ISO50 is an option that is nice to have. It has advantages in some circumstances and disadvantages in others.

Bokeh monster" should be only referred to the 200/2 IS- a giant among non supertele lenses, and a giant in its ability to produce blur.
Others, like the 85mm f1.2L/50mm f1.2L and Sigma 85mm f1.4/50mm f1.4 (A) the best, yet affordable options.

evebabe1981 said:

I have 35L 50L,135L,200L trying to get 1-2 new lens to travel

1.wish list/ (16-35f2.8 or f4) (24-70 f2.8II) (70-200mm f2.8 or 70-200mm f4)

2.would you sell 35L or 200L when u get 16-35 or 70-200?

3.which 3 lens would u take to travel? and street photography

advice anyone? thanks ^^

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I'd get the 16-35mm f4L IS and 70-200mm f4L IS (I have the f2.8L IS II but this one is more portable for travel). Sell the 200L, there is no need if you buy the 70-200mm lens. 35mmL competes in another league, it's 3-stop faster than the 16-35 f4L IS, keep it.
I am assuming you have FF body, hence take to travel the 16-35, 50L and 70-200.