privatebydesign said:

Skirball said:

Why not take a photo at max sync speed, then just go up 1/3 a stop and see the difference between single pop and HSS. It would minimize the impact of shutter speed, which will directly affect exposure in HSS. Once you establish that difference you know that you'll lose a stop every time you go up a stop in shutter speed.

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That is exactly what I dd in my first reply. Going up 1/3 stop above sync cost 2 and 1/3 stops of power.

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Sorry, you're right. I saw a bunch of discussion involving changing the aperture and shutter speed and whatnot and it seemed to be over-complicating things.

Actually this thread helped me get my lens. So thanks!

Was waiting for it to come off of the "pre-order" status but after reading about the delays and the pre-order people getting theirs I went to my local camera shop and got on the waiting list in late June. Was contacted last Friday night and went Saturday morning to get the lens. They told me they only get maybe 3 a week and the waiting list keeps growing.

Of course the weather didn't cooperate but was able to take it out for a few shots. Know this isn't THE lens of all lenses and from what some people have mentioned it may have a few issues more than a $$$ lens would but so far I like what I've seen and looking forward to using it more.

Dear Friends.
Well , most of us already know this Web site, But I just post for a few friends who do not know this web site yet.
Enjoy
Surapon

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/

privatebydesign said:

psolberg said:

boy if canon every scores high on DXO, so many people are going to eat crow when they suddenly praise their accuracy. fanboys. meh.

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But is the specific criticism of DXO methodology incorrect?

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The criticisms will remain valid no matter who scores higher. The problems are the bias inherent in the Scores, and their unwillingness to disclose their formulae and weightings.

One could argue that I'm a Zeiss fan. I believe their optics are good enough that I've spent millions of (research) dollars on Zeiss microscopes. A Zeiss lens is DxO's top-scoring lens...and I still think their lens Scores are BS.

But some people (including some professional photographers who like to brag about now much money they make) enjoy breathing in the smell of DxO's BS, and then exhale that stench all over these forums.

ScottyP said:

ScottyP said:

I found this Nikon Rumors thread kind of interesting to snoop on.

http://forum.nikonrumors.com/discussion/2942/phottix-mitrosmitros-my-experience

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And it was also interesting to see how anemic the forum is on Nikon Rumors compared to Canon Rumors. Very little activity, not nearly as well-organized, not as much content.

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well compared to most forums, this forum is quite anemic. just a fanboy nest for validating a purchase. so let's not call the kettle black.

Do you have a grip? It appears that my grip went tonto and fried all my lp-e6's and nearly my camera...

my research at the time suggested there were two production revisions of the 7d, with an altered battery contact design on later models... as usual with canon, I found lots of people with the same fault on line, but no acceptance of any problem by canon.

(see '7d fw1 with udma cards' and 'mass sony sourced ccd failure')

Canon wont admit there is a problem until the mob arrives at their door with pitchforks and torches.

This is a wonderful shot! I love the colorful effect in the droplet. Well done!

Aglet said:

The idea of being able to do this is absolutely drool-worthy.
Will be interesting to see how well it performs and how much movement range it will have on a FF.

www.imaging-resource.com/news/2014/08/14/hartblei-introduces-hcam-master-ts-14-24mm-tilt-shift-optic-for-sony-e-moun

Dang! Sony's the only system I don't carry... yet.

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At least it's native EF-mount so this still has a place on this 'Canon forum'

I wonder if it's also possible to adjust the aperture of Canon lenses.

Hmmm. I couldn't really see anything obvious on the back element, but I cleaned it and it seems to have made things much cleaner! Thanks everyone for your feedback! You guys are great!

candc said:

I think I might get this lens as a take along/do it all canoe tripping and hiking lens on the 6d. Have you tried it on a crop camera? I wonder how it compares IQ wise compared to the 16-300? I know it has less range on the wide side but I would prefer it if the IQ is better on a crop body as well.

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I haven't posted my review of the 16-300mm yet, but I actually make that case. There are more optical compromises with the 16-300 and I still like the 28-300 better on a crop. Less loss of resolution and contrast on the long end. The biggest downside, of course, is that 28mm isn't particularly wide on a crop.

Here's a sample taken with the lens on a crop camera (300mm wide open). Crop body is an EOS M in this case, but I did the review primarily on a 60D.

jedy said:

..... it mentions Nikon cameras:
No focus motor
Won't autofocus with all lenses.......

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As Nikon has fallen off my radar, I no longer follow specs and details of current market offerings, I've no idea regarding the current state of these things.
- - -
I have, and have worn out both a D70 and a D80.
On the lens mount of these cameras is a screwdriver tip sort of affair connected to an in the camera focusing motor.
Some autofocus lenses of the era did not have their own autofocus motor(s), instead used the camera's built in motor. I have lenses of both types, in lens motors focused significantly faster, camera body focus seemed just as accurate once it finally arrived.
The next generation Nikons one step down in the marketplace omitted the in body focus motors, if a lens was to autofocus, it had to bring its own motors.
There was simply no way for a non-motorized lens to autofocus without camera drive.
Example; had I updated to the D90 generation but a step or two downmarket, my AF Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8D would not be able to autofocus.

In the photo below hot linked from dpreview, see the screwdriver tip looking tab at about 7:00? That's the in camera autofocus drive for lenses without their own motors.



Another downside of this so called 'feature', while this drive is engaged, the focus ring cannot be manually operated, autofocus must be physically disengaged on the camera body, no 'on the fly' manual focus possible.
- - -
I don't know if this is what snapsort was referring to, I looked briefly and did not find. I don't much care either, please, make no effort on my behalf to find and quote whatever passage(s).
I no longer care anything regarding anything and everything Nikon and at this point in my life, hope to maintain that indifference until my end.

I was using 1920x1080 @25 FPS

@sjschall : yes "little buffer icon on the LCD.. like a battery indicator"


ok this is card problem...
I tested another 4 GB Sandisk ultra 30MB/s class10 SD card. This card was supplied by canon with the camera. It recorded cool 08:25 mins of video till card was full and never showed the buffer icon.

After that I formatted the 16GB card with is program https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/ @Lightmaster and tried it. It stopped after ~2 and half mins and showed the buffer icon quite a few times.


Thinking what to do?
Should I contact Sandisk directly with the issue?

thanks all for your time

The Ds3 is obviously the bastard offspring of the Nintendo DS and the Sony Playstation 3. Or it might be the Canon EOS 1Ds Mark III. Maybe the OP can clarify...

Aglet said:

I define) so I can focus on a bird partly hidden by a branch.... Can't do that too readily with an SLR.

OTOH, a good friend is very satisfied with the performance from his 150-600m Tamron on his D7100; finds it quite sharp beyond 400mm but does get noticeably soft between 500 to 600mm.

So, even if CaNikon don't make such a lens at that price point, there are viable options.

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Exactly, the third party lens makers find and fill a gap that they see, and are able to provide customers who do not want to spend $5K or 10K on a near perfect lens, when one that is very good will do the job. Casual uses do not need ultra reliability, they can take care with their lenses and when treated carefully, the low end lenses will last. Still, I do buy old cameras, and when there is a old third party lens in with a camera along with Canon lenses, its almost a sure bet that the old Vivitar, or Sigma lens will not function. They usually have lube gone solid, and getting it out is very difficult. Some also have lube that has gone to liquid and is all over the aperture blades. In either case, its not worth fooling with. I take them apart and save the screws, I always seem to find a need to replace a tiny lost screw, my old 5D I bought this weekend needed 2 screws, and I had them.

IMG_0001 said:

Therefore, having multiple very short and likely less intense flashes during the exposure seems more efficient and must result in a more repeatable/consistent lighting than one long flash.

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And there is power regulation. Those little flashes can have a relatively wide range f power levels, making the output adjustable.
The long flash method works only at/near full power.

The energy cost is from keeping the output almost constant for the duration of the illumination, at least that is my understanding.

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Most of the cost comes from the shutter blades blocking a good portion of the light, and from a little oversight in the flash protocols. The camera doesn't tell the flash how long its sync speed actually is, so the HSS-flash has to be long enough for the slowest camera. You use that 1D4? Half of your speedlite's power went into compatibility with the 6D or 5Dx. (The FlexTT has a hack for the second part, if I remember correctly)

This is the kind of trickle down I like.

Will we see higher bitrates and choice of gop patterns in next rebels? Canon have the video dslr market... Sony are very interesting, and well priced....

Since you do a little off everything, I'd guess I'd lean you towards the 3rd option. But I personally would do either of the two options... go back to crop with the 70d and wait for the 5d mkiv... or more likely buy a discounted mkiii and a new lens.

hi, i'm a lucky(maybe) new owner of the asahi regular glass PENTAX 1:1.4 50mm ASHAI OPT. CO. JAPAN , may i be sure that this objective is not radioactive?
lens become yellow anyway? Uranium produce the same yellow effect instead of thorium?

thanks

DFM said:

I've been using these things for years as macro lenses, either reversed or on a set of tubes (or both). They're renowned for image quality, which explains why the prices on eBay have shot up. The radioactive models are not as easy to identify as people think - most of them did have "TAKUMAR" on the front, but there's at least one batch of 50/1.4s that don't:

SMC PENTAX 1:1.4/50 ASHAI OPT. CO. JAPAN = thorium
SMC PENTAX 1:1.4 50mm ASHAI OPT. CO. JAPAN = regular glass

If you're mounting on FF body and don't want to saw off the aperture lever (or you get one with creatures inside), it's not a difficult lens to strip apart. See http://retinarescue.com/pentax50mmf1.4.html

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Hot pixels are actually what convinced me to upgrade from a few lamps on a table to an actual light box for macro work.
On an 8 second exposure my 5DII lights up like a Christmas tree. I sincerely doubt any camera will give a faultless image with a long exposure.
Anything under 1 second seems to be fine.
This is actually one problem I can see having with Mirorless, when I'm shooting in live view for extended periods hot pixels are definitely worse. Again, that's only with long exposures, but in those situations you want your sensor cool for best performance.

Hi,
- I have tried with a 2s speed.. same.
- The ready light is almost aways on.
- I have no test button. But the "depth of field" button make nothing.
- I hear a very small "whine" but every 15s and only during 2-3s. Not the "dziiiiiii..." of a normal flash when it loads...

That makes also me thinking to a failed capacitor. As I have a small electronic background, I will try to open it.
(I know that a flash can contain high-voltage - I have already played with this principle some years ago when I was student)

Thank you all for your help.

WOW! I played w/ the 24 t-s last summer for starscapes and it worked OK. I understand (someone correct me if I am wrong) that 600/focal length= max shutter time for something w/o trails.

I took some fun star shots in the spring w/ the 40 2.8 of the Nasa launch facility and the glow from the canal lighting nearby, https://www.flickr.com/photos/77760916@N05/12030259025/

I look forward to some interesting foreground/star scape type shots coming up.

I expect the 7D MK II, if it is announced, will have a pop up flash (also expect it in $2300.00 neighborhood) and I like them though it won't be a deal breaker for me. I appreciate the suggestion of the 270 as a substitute and will probably buy one if necessary

surapon said:

Dear Friend, Mr.lastcoyote
I use LED Ring Light for my dear MP-E 65 mm., Since 4-5 years, and still love this LED Ring light, which can turn on Both Left side and Right side---Or just one side of the LED. Ring light , for the Shade and shadow to make the subject 3D. look. Yes, Super Cheap TOO = jUST $ 36 us dOLLARS---If you do not like , Just throw them away.

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Macro-Ring-LED-Light/dp/B0031AQ302

Enjoy

Surapon

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=18917.0

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Thanks for reply Surapon.
Yes it seems to me most people use a continuous ring light for macro video, similar to the one you linked to.
I guess I need to literally try out the options to see what works best.

A co-worker has one of these as a retirement goal. I have no idea what he wants to do with it, but its his money.

Jim

Such a beautiful shot! The way your clicked it is really great. Well done!