Posts

Zv · Nov 1, 2013

Ruined said:
But like the 24-105 vs 24-70 f/2.8, the 70-300 has some advantages over the 70-200 f/2.8, namely an extra 100mm in focal length.

The problem I have with the 24-70 f/4 is that it will duplicate the inevitable 24-70 f/2.8 IS which patents were filed for a while back. The 24-105 at least though would still have a spot in my kit for that extra range when needed.

I would be very surprised if Canon ever brought out an IS version of the 24-70L 2.8II. I think the f/4 version was intended to fill that IS void but I think in a sense they kinda failed. I'm not saying the f/4 isn't sharp, I'm sure it is but not close enough to the f/2.8 IMO as we thought it was gonna be, like the little brother of the 2.8. Instead it seems to marginally improve on the 24-105, which isn't hard! If it had been as sharp or close as the 2.8 and without the gimicky macro Canon could have even charged $1500 and I would have likely paid it.

You see the 2.8 shouldn't need IS in theory. Canon's latest generation of pro cameras are able to shoot fairly clean shots at high ISO and the next gen will likely improve on that. Now, for those who NEED the IS there was the 24-105L but this needed an update so the 24-70 f/4 was born. Those who use IS will likely be using the lens for creating more dof for landscapes etc at sunrise or sunset, or traveling with it, which I think is what this smaller and lighter lens was intended for. Note how Canon improved the 24mm end especially over the 24-105.

The 2.8 is more of a studio / pro lens and likely those folk will use a tripod anyway.

Chuck Alaimo · Nov 1, 2013

Last thing to say on this topic for a bit ---part of this whole debate involves trends. Right now everyone loves the instant gratification of snap upload, watch as the comments and likes pour in. Who says this trend is the new tomorrow? Right now, everyone wants to share everything and everyone loves everything that everyone is sharing. But will that be the case in 2015, 2016, 2017...etc etc. this is whats happening now, but, what's happening now is a trend - maybe this trend will change. what happens when the likes stop for your duck face in the mirror photo? What happens when no one cares that you posted a pic of your dinner plate. What happens when instant upload is considered, "that's so 2013, gawd, no one does that anymore."

Marsu42 · Nov 1, 2013

If a shot was framed too tight and I'd like to add some space around it, for example for print and framing - what options are there?

Is there a plugin to extrapolate the edge of the frame a bit so that the extension becomes less visible than a plain color, or a plugin to do a non-linear stretch so that the outer sides of the frames are stretched while most of the inner part remains the same (I know for the latter there is a plugin with this idea for AviSynth video processor)?

How do you do it? Thanks for any insight

Colorista · Nov 1, 2013

Thanks, Michael! I will give this a download this weekend. Actually, the sample video provided in the link is what pushed me into getting the 600ex system from the start. This was the first video I saw that explained that you still needed a trigger for 5D MK3, there where alot of rumors about 5DMk3 having built in radio at the time. So thanks for that

CarlTN · Oct 31, 2013

My 135 is +3 on my 6D, and was +2 on my 50D (if I recall correctly). It was like +13 on the 50D when combined with the 2X TC ii. It was and is, pretty much the same from .9 meters to infinity. At .9 meters it is barely a fraction of an inch off on the 6D.

Oct 31, 2013

Call Canon. They generally have a fixed price for a given lens, I think in the $200-300 range. Good luck!

Albi86 · Oct 31, 2013

First samples: http://www.lenstip.com/2065-news-Sigma_A_24-105_mm_f_4_DG_OS_HSM_-_sample_images.html

J.R. · Oct 31, 2013

dude said:
Compared to my 5Diii, my in focus shots of action (SEC college football specifically) are far less than my 5Diii with same lens setup. That is the day issue. At night I won't even start a comparison because the 7D is at a distinct disadvantage.

I do like the 7D for many reasons, FPS is one biggie, and the latest rumors of the 7Dii sound awesome (hoping for full sensor), but I find the AF on the 7D lacking for my purposes.

The AF of the 7D is pretty good ... but once you are spoil yourself with the AF of the 5D3 / 1DX, all of a sudden the AF of the 7D doesn't seem good enough

bchernicoff · Oct 31, 2013

I didn't read all the comments on this post, but this page is incredibly useful for these sort of common errors:

https://public.wsu.edu/~brians/errors/errors.html

Apop · Oct 31, 2013

Apop said:
Despite being mostly interested in DSLR announcements , the idea of a successor to the sx50 sounds appealing.
I hope one will come and in time for Christmas.

The sx50 is already a very capable camera, if they can address a few flaws , the sx60 could become even more appealing as travel camera or for people as lighter alternative for when they don't want to take SLR gear out.

Any chance of something like this coming before the end of the year?

Mr Bankes · Oct 31, 2013

mps said:
i dont know how good old bodies are, since noise preformance and so on continually got better - BUT - getting old lenses is a great idea. i have 35 2.8 ( super carrerar, never heard before i bought it), 50 1.4 and 105 2.8 (both pentax super takumar) m43 lenses - i actually prefer them over any L-lens. especialy the 35mm is super crisp even wide open.... paid like 20 euro for this one, the pentax were a litttle more expensive at a hefty pricetag of 50 euros each

Yeah, lenses tend to hold their value though

I purchased a Canon 100-300 USM for $90 in mint condition earlier this year. The 20D shows plenty of noise at ISO 1600 and above, that with the small screen is the only problems I've had.

docholliday · Oct 31, 2013

al-toidz photography said:
I have a 1d mark 3 and the pixel is more than enough for internet and anything less than 20x20 print. I can even crop a photo very tight and still come out with a good print. How much more with the 20+ pixel of 1ds mark 3. I've rented the 5d mark 2 and 3 and personally i don't like the file they produce. Unlike the 1d(s) series, i can push their file and still give me a good result. I did the same with the 5d's and i didn't like the result.

Bottom line: get the 1ds mark 3

Definitely...I have a 1D3 and 1Ds3, and having used all the 5d's (not mine), I'd have to agree that while the 5's files may be newer and the high ISO better, I don't shoot much above 800. So, the 1's files are much more realistic and smoother. A lot of it has to do with the AA filter choices, but something about the RAW data is that much more. Plus, I hate small cameras...

docholliday · Oct 31, 2013

Of course, Canon bodies are never really off...they're soft-off. Pretty much the power switch is nothing more than a keylock. Hence, the reason that a body left in on, but sleeping and the "switched-off" body drains the batteries at the same rate.

xps · Oct 31, 2013

One negative aspect I discovered myself some days ago too, shooting some birds in flight:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canon-eos-70d/12:
"Sadly Dual Pixel AF is only really used for single image AF or movie shooting (see the movie page to see how it does). If you need continuous autofocus with tracking, you have to use the 70D's conventional AF system. We looked at how well it could track a subject walking towards the camera and left-to-right across the frame."

It is a pity. It would be a great advantage to use the new AF in tracking moving objects.

Harry Muff · Oct 30, 2013

Ok, so until I decide on what I'm going to do, I'm going to try using my 430EX set to manual and the lowest power setting, as well as pointing upwards to set off my 500R via the slave cell.

A quick test indoors suggests it should work as the power of the strobe should easily overpower any light from the 430EX.

A bit over the top, but it'll get me through until my Elinchroms arrive (They're being shipped to me as I've moved countries).

I'll let you know how it goes.

dppaskewitz · Oct 30, 2013

I believe this is the correct link:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=458&Camera=835&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=2&LensComp=458&CameraComp=812&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=2

drummstikk · Oct 30, 2013

brad-man said:
You want a silicone band. The type that are to be worn on the wrist will do.

Nice.

BozillaNZ · Oct 30, 2013

No it's "Sigma 70-200mm 1:2.8 APO DG EX OS HSM WOOSH OMGWTFBBQ SOFAST HOLY SUPER HAPPY FUN TIME THIS LENS IS GOOD!(1). 1: Limited super deluxe edition"

jdramirez · Oct 30, 2013

tiger82 said:
I was planning to shoot with a 100mm f/2.8 IS on a 5D2 and 24-70 f/2.8 on a 7D or 1D3. It's not my usual cup of tea but I agreed to take publicity shots for a college dance company. I won't be shooting with flash during dances so any tips ahead of time would be welcome.

i'd suggest shooting during a dress rehearsal using of camera flash.. probably two or three.

I'd probably suggest shooting while on stage at maybe 70mm and f5.6... but that is a guess.

tiger82 · Oct 30, 2013

Has anyone shot there and can give me some tips/suggestions?

granite4brains · Oct 30, 2013

Got the Intervalometer and confirmed that it doesn't seem to override the 15 sec max exposure. Looks like you do need a bulb setting for this, like Schruminator said. Unfortunately, the G15 doesn't have one.

So, CHDK is definitely needed for the workaround here. That will allow for the longer exposures and works with the Intervalometer.

AttackMonkey · Oct 30, 2013

I go to Japan every couple of years, I love it there. My most recent trip was last year, and I climbed Fuji overnight to watch the sun rise, it was amazing!

To give you an idea, we normally do a couple of weeks, with 4 - 6 of us, and manage to visit 4 or 5 major cities or so. It's a LOT of travel though.

If street photography is your thing, Tokyo is the best, but Osaka and Kyoto are good too. If you want historical stuff like shrines, Kyoto is where it's at, and Nara is good too. I can recommend a few really good places that I've been:

Miyajima Island, it's in the top 100 places to visit before you die, and with good reason. It's a beautiful island off the coast near Hiroshima. IF you go, stay overnight in one of the island's many traditional Ryokan. There's a mountain there you can climb too, with great views across to the mainland, as well as the famous floating shrine and Torii gate.

The peace gardens and museum at Hiroshima are beautiful, and very moving. I imagine, the Dome (the only surviving building), which is pretty eerie at the best of times would be even more striking in the winter.

If you go to Kyoto, check out the Golden Shrine, the Silver shrine, Ryoan-Ji, Kyoto Castle and Gion. There's also a fantastic giant Flea market once or twice a month at one of the temples not too far from the main station.

Osaka has the castle, and an excellent aquarium.

If you want a good day trip and you're in Kyoto or Osaka, consider a day trip to Himeji Castle. It's the best surviving original castle in Japan, and if you've seen a film set in Japan with a castle in it, the chance are it was Himeji Castle.

Kamakura is a good day out from Tokyo, it has a wonderful small town feel to it, and there are some beautiful shrines there.

I don't know if giant robots are your thing, but in Odaiba in Tokyo, they have a life sized Gundam robot, which is light up at night, and is very cool indeed.

As others have said, the street food in Japan is amazing, and the Sushi is awesome. I'd also recommend trying the regional specialities of any region that you visit!

As others have mentioned, the further away you get from Tokyo, the harder it is to get around if you don't speak or read Japanese. Do your research in advance, it'll make your life much easier! A lot of the other major cities are easier to navigate now than they were on my first visit in 2005. Most of the major bus stations will have bus schedules in English if you ask.

If you plan on getting around by train, consider a JR Pass, you have to buy them before you go, but they allow you unlimited travel on the JR trains, and some of the ferries as well. If you're doing more than one or two long journeys, you'll save a ton of money. You can't use the fastest bullet trains though. Driving is OK, but again, it can be a bit intimidating if you can't read any of the road signs!

Cory · Oct 30, 2013

How about an ultra-simple no-frills compact with the highest quality fixed lens, Manual controls and RAW.
If not, what's the closest thing to that currently out?

:-*

Oct 30, 2013

I remember the days of hdv and aic and epic rendering.

All the disk capacity, throughput and rendering required makes a zippy macpro seem like a powerbook g4.

I shot hdv for a few years before any client actually asked for delivery in hd.

So we have the bmd which is late, restrictive battery, based on original qc may not be plain sailing, and the gopro4k which is what, 15fps?

I'm always happy to see early adopters plunge in, they iron out the bumps for when I pay half price in 6 months.

Also, 4k from a 2/3rds sensor (at least it wasn't 1/3rds)?

Hjalmarg1 · Oct 30, 2013

You don't need to get a "slim" version since most of the time you will be using high stop numbers (f11-f18) and I also use my ND 77mm filter with a step up ring to the 72mm filter size of the lens.
There are many good Variable ND's but they are expensive. Tiffen and Hoya may fit in your budget.

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