Posts

mrsfotografie · Aug 13, 2014

lo lite said:
wickidwombat said:

I agree i find it a ho hum focal length not wide enough or not tight enough
I really like 20mm though its a really nice wide focal length

Click to expand...

I second that. I really love my CZJ Flektogon 20/2.8 although I miss autofocus. A 24mm f/1.4 is already made by Canon so I don't see the need for Sigma to do this too. I'd rather had a 20mm f/1.4 with a close focusing distance of 19mm like the Flek. And yeah, I know there's the 20mm F1.8 EX DG by Sigma but that lens is dated, it has no hypersonic AF (HSM).

Sigma made a 35mm f/1.4 that beats the Canon 35mm f/1.4 on many fronts, including price and it has been a big seller so I suspect Sigma will see a makrket for a 24mm.

I agree the 20mm is dated but honestly its AF is plenty fast for a wide angle prime. It does have a weird dual clutch system which is a poor mechanical workaround to engage or disengage the focus ring vs AF or MF. It is not a big issue for me, but it is possible to set the lens in MF mode and have the focus ring disengaged as well.

christinaroberts · Aug 13, 2014

These are wonderful shots which you have taken so nicely. Love the angle! Great job.

troppobash · Aug 13, 2014

troppobash said:
Yes happy to have G1X II and not to have dslr when travelling or need to have minimum (sparse) equipment.

8)

+1

dcm · Aug 13, 2014

tat3406 said:
Is that the focal length more longer, the higher percentage the lens need to AFMA?

I think its really about narrow depths of field, particularly near MFD, which faster apertures and/or longer focal lengths exacerbate.

At 600mm on my Tamron 150-600, at 20 feet you have a DOF of 2" with f/11 and 1" with f/8 so it matters on long lenses even with small apertures. The 135L has a similar 2" depth of field at 10 feet with f/2. The 50L has a 2" depth of field at 5 feet with f/1.2. These are all about twice MFD.

Most kit lenses aren't that fast or that long so they tend to be acceptable without AFMA. But fast lenses and long telephotos can benefit from AFMA.

nonac · Aug 12, 2014

I wanted to try some slower shutter speed panning shots, but I was elbow it elbow with several others which made it difficult. I know from shooting some NASCAR shots in years past that to pan properly you need plenty of room to follow through with the panning motion. I didn't have the room to do this here. There were only a few us obstructed views that had a good view of the track from the infield and of course that's where everyone flocked to. I'll be back there next year, hopefully with some access to the photographer only areas where I would have much more room.

jdramirez · Aug 12, 2014

I thought about buying a mirror less Nikon for around a hundred bucks... but then I didn't think I would ever use it so I didn't bother.

Gary W. · Aug 12, 2014

FEBS said:
Gary W. said:

Hey all,

How about a mix? ST-E3 for use with your current, and possible future 600's, and 622's to use if you decide to purchase flashes that don't operate on the Canon radio system. Put the 622 trigger in the camera's hot shoes with the ST-E3 on top of that. Start with the 622's to start less expensively, the add as the funds allow.

Gary W.

Click to expand...

I would not advice to stack, as the more contacts and the less reliability you can expect. I would use the yn622, or a second 600 on top of the camera.

Hey all,

A lot of quality triggers (transmitters) have a hot shoe on top of the transmitter specifically to add a flash on top of the camera so it can be used as an optical trigger, or direct or fill flash. It seems to me that reducing the weight by adding only an ST-E3 vs a top mounted flash seems reasonable... granted, not optimal, but perfectly feasible.

Gary W.

Steve · Aug 12, 2014

brianftpc said:
I dont really believe it to be confusing unless someone just doesnt know what they are buying or why.

Right, that's why I put in those last two sentences. Buying things like this requires research, which is something a lot of people won't put too much effort into or simply don't know what or how to research.

brianftpc said:
toothpaste is only confusing because its all about the same price.

Yes, that's one reason why its really dumb to compare selling cameras to selling toothpaste.

mackguyver · Aug 12, 2014

bornshooter said:
I hated it then gave in, http://instagram.com/sommervillephotography

I hated it too when it was just people slapping crappy vintage filters on iPhone photos, but it has evolved. I just followed you - nice portraits!

mackguyver · Aug 12, 2014

FEBS said:
mackguyver said:

No apology necessary and I love to handhold my 300 f/2.8 IS II with extenders as well - it's my most-used lens. The 5DIII is a great body as well, no matter what lens is attached.

Click to expand...

Me too. Love that 300 on the 5d3. However, is even better on the 1dx as I find that body easier to keep that big white still to shoot handhold. Think the higher height of the body is causing this.

My love for the big White became that big I ordered a new baby, 200-400 1,4, which I am going to pickup at Thursday.

Yep, love the 1D X even more, too, and congrats on the new addition to the big white arsenal! I'm sure that you'll have a killer kit with the combination.

lexptr · Aug 12, 2014

Well if it will not impact their regular lenses update schedule – I don't mind. But I'm afraid it will. Just wish all their lenses to be renewed to Sigma's latest amazing quality level!

Skirball · Aug 12, 2014

Mt Spokane Photography said:
Battery geometry can be a big issue. That little nub on the positive end varies in length from AA type to type. Some electronica will accept them all, but some have a barrier that stops the short nubs from making contact. I had this issue with electronics I import, some batteries would not make contact.

However, that obviously is not Jims issue.

Battery geometry shouldn't be a big issue. It's not exactly rocket science to design a battery holder that can firmly make contact with a battery given some tolerance. I just don't see it as a complicated design requirement, and certainly not for a $600 piece of equipment. As to applicability to Jim's issue, I agree, this shouldn't be the cause of it, but it is what's stated in the instructions for the 600ex. And every time I've heard of similar complaints with the 600ex someone puts alkalines in and the problem goes away. So either Canon poorly designed the battery contacts, or they put some fluff in the labeling instead of design a battery indicator that can handle various rechargeables.

mackguyver · Aug 12, 2014

tomscott said:
When in a pinch the 70-200mm F2.8 MKII with 2x converter work pretty well. I only have the V2 converter, its easier than carrying two lenses and the IQ is pretty good IMO close to the 100-400mm at 400 but the AF is slower... but with the 5DMKIII I missed very few shots, also the 4 stop IS works great with the 2x.

I think that combo works quite well, but I find it pretty unbalanced in terms of weight.

tomscott said:
Although like the above image Bokeh can be a little distracting. The problem is I want to pull the trigger on a 400mm but the one I want doesn't exist atm and I think the 400mm F2.8s are overkill, too big and heavy and definitely too expensive, although the isolation of 2.8 would be great.

I gave up waiting for the 400 f/5.6 IS...and ended up with the 300 f/2.8 IS II (and both converters, which I already had). It's quite expensive and a beast compared to the 400 f/5.6, but gives excellent results and is much smaller and lighter than the 400 f/2.8 IS II, but I'd love to have 800mm...and f/2.8 at 400mm sometimes...

As for the

mrsfotografie · Aug 12, 2014

wtlloyd said:
I see what you did there.

mrsfotografie said:

It would be strange for a manufacturer renowned for their AF camera's...

Click to expand...

I see it too now, I guess that's what happens when you don't fully read into the topic :-[

dlee13 · Aug 12, 2014

I would honestly love the 135 but I'm moving out soon, getting engaged and need a PS4 so paying 1k for the 135 is sadly out of my budget. As I said I feel the monitor and calibrator is a better move over another lens although if I did decide to venture into professional portraits, I figure I could do them with the 100L then save the money to buy the 135 from each job I do.

I used the 100L the other weekend and I was more than impressed with what I could do with it, because of that I feel it's too close to the 85. See if I'm shooting indoors, I can easily shoot wider and use the 35 then if I need a tighter headshot of sorts indoors, I can use the 100L like I did here.

Malcom by Daniel E Lee, on Flickr

The other advantage I see to selling my Sigma 50 is that if they release a new Canon 85 1.8 that is similar to the 35mm F2 IS, I don't have the hassle of selling a lens to buy it.

BozillaNZ · Aug 11, 2014

To be honest with that amount of money, I'd sell my 16-28 and buy a Canon 16-35 f4L so I can use ordinary filters on it.

justawriter · Aug 11, 2014

Take a picture of a bee fly at three meters

Bee flies are actually a group of flies that mimics bees and wasps so predators who don't like to be stung avoid them. They are fuzzy and sort of roly-poly leading one entomologist to quip, "If a bug can be adorable, this is it."

janmaxim · Aug 11, 2014

I took this picture of a beautiful old sailing vessel while sailing down by the Swedish coast.

mdmphoto · Aug 11, 2014

7D has MANY more focus points, and way faster fps than 6D. IQ-wise, my 6D wipes the floor with my 7D without breaking even the slightest sweat. I've become so spoiled by 6D IQ that I find myself instinctively trying to capture moving subjects - birds, mostly, that I'll NEVER be good enough to capture with it, than just grab my 7D: despite its still-great specs and features it has become just a second body, emergencies only, for me. Unless all you shoot are fast-moving subjects, you will find yourself pretty pleased with the 6D - and still have some cash left for another lens or flash or plane ticket...

robinlamkie · Aug 11, 2014

IMHO,
Shoot in RAW because the color is not what most of these pictures display.
I carried and snapped my little gray card a few times to get a better reference on my visit last year.

dshipley · Aug 11, 2014

mackguyver said:
dshipley said:

Fun car and great for hauling gear to shoots...

All of this...
• ThinkTank Airport International v2 (fully loaded)
• Profoto D1 Air 500/500/1000 Kit
• PCB 2x Einstein e640+VML Kit
• Large Tripod & 2x Light Stands in Softcase
• Laptop Bag
• 2x Scrim Jims (frames + panels)
• 5x C-Stands in Hardcase
• Sandbags (multiple)
• Dufflebag (full of lighting modifiers/reflectors/gaff tape/etc)
• RocknRoller Multi-Cart

Easily fits...

Click to expand...

Very impressive cargo capacity and AWD to boot!

Also has a twin turbo v6 and a manual transmission.

mackguyver · Aug 11, 2014

Don't feel bad, BIF photos are hard and it takes lots of practice, but even then it's often quite difficult. The longer the lens the harder it is and 600mm is pretty long. Here's a post I replied to about this a while back:

mackguyver said:
scyrene said:

I've been meaning to ask for a while about birds in flight actually - as in, which AF scenario to use. I must admit, the 5D3's autofocus options have always rather baffled me - even though it gives examples, I've never known which is most appropriate for birds. I don't do much BIF work, as I'm mostly shooting small songbirds, and not the big owls/eagles that you guys have access to in North America (and other such places). But when I see, say, a duck, crow, or cormorant (i.e. a medium-sized bird) flying, and I try and focus on it, the camera almost never chooses the bird, choosing the sky instead (that being the much larger target). I'm hand holding, and so keeping the AF point on the bird is very hard, but using multiple points or a zone doesn't seem to help. Sorry if all this has been covered before, but I thought I'd ask here anyway

Click to expand...

First of all, a caveat: shooting birds in flight is tough. Even the best gear and technique won't guarantee a good shot, but there are ways to increase your success. The best way to do this is to set up in a stationary location and wait for birds to fly over. It also helps to pre-focus at the distance you expert to acquire the target (BIF). In terms of AF settings, the 7D works best with Zone AF, and the 5DIII and 1D X works best with the the 61-pt auto-select, but it often picks the sky (as you say) if you don't get the BIF with the right initial AF point. The most reliable thing you can do is set it to 61-pt, AI Servo and use the AF Point selection to pick the center AF point. Case 1 seems to work well for me most BIFs, but I'll use Case 2 when there are trees in the way and Case 5 when shooting small birds like swifts. The key is getting the initial AF point on target, holding it until you can verify that it locked, following the target for a moment, and then pressing the shutter. With small distant birds and/or with birds in a gray sky, that can be really tough, but the sooner you are able to lock onto the BIF and start tracking it, the better. If it doesn't lock on, release the AF button and push it again. Sometimes I'll do that 2-3x before it will lock if the BIF is small/distant.

So to recap, set up in a place you expect to see BIFs, lock onto them as soon as you can, confirm focus lock/tracking, wait for key moment, then fire away.

The final key to BIF photos - practice, practice, practice.

And I'll leave you with this (after many years of practice) - here are two shots of BIF I took recently while focusing my 600mm lens (300 + 2x) on an owl. I had to grab my camera off the tripod and in the first instance, I did pretty well...

...but I totally flubbed the second shot of an osprey (with fish) that flew over me from the opposite direction:

Orangutan · Aug 11, 2014

AcutancePhotography said:
What do you think this would add to either still photography or video photography?

I don't know about this particular product, but many of the features would be useful for improved LiveView and EVF.

drobertfranz · Aug 11, 2014

CR Backup Admin said:
I didn't view the link, but was wondering how they compare at 16mm, or at 50 or 85 or 105mm.

This seems like apples and oranges. The two lenses are not in competition.

For me they are in competition in the 24-35mm range where they overlap. I do a lot of landscape images in that range of FL. It tells me what lens to use for the very best quality. Or if I'm traveling light perhaps I can leave one of these at home. Besides I was interested to see the difference.

Click · Aug 11, 2014

Very nice B&W. Well done.

Posts

Posts

Attachments

Attachments

Filter

Forum statistics

Gallery statistics