Posts

Skirball · Jul 15, 2014

Stig said:
Hi,

quick questions about octagonal modifiers, all the octobrollybox versions...

1, which way do you prefer the octobox to be lit up (and is there a difference)?
what I mean, I found basically the same shape/size octobox, but one has an umbrella like pole in the middle, closed back, the strobe sits behind the diffuser and aims back on a reflective inner back... the other has a hole in the back, with the strobe aiming at an (inner) diffuser screen (so it doesn't block the light and is naturally more accessible)

The answer to this applies to several of your other questions. The cheap brolly's aren't much more than a reflective umbrella with a diffuser on the end, where as the Octo is a more traditional soft box that you shoot through. As someone mentioned above, it comes down to portability, setup/tear down time. The brollys setup almost as quick as an umbrella; I never take my softboxes apart, it takes too long. If I travel, I use the brolly. At home, I prefer the softboxes, because my flash is accessible at the back.

As far as light quality, they're essentially the same. I'm sure it varies by manufacture. but I was surprised to find that mine attenuate the light about the same. Technically my brollyboxes have better light, in that there is less of a hotspot in the center. But the only time I see this is in spectral highlights, and it's rare that the highlight is big enough to be noticeable. Even if it is, it takes 2 seconds in Photoshop to fix it. I see no difference in the softness, though I find the boxes to feather a bit better. I use cheap softboxes (Fotodiox, really well made for the cost) and cheaper brollys (cheapest I can find).

The effect of different shapes/sizes depends on your subject. Softness is a relative term, dependent on the size of your light vs size of your subject. I wouldn't worry too much about shape to begin with. Photographers that like dramatic lighting often have various sizes and shapes so you can really control your lighting relative to your subject, or a specific shape to catchlights and spectral highlights. Just get a couple of rectangles to start with - they work well with speedlights, easy to manage, and feather well.

loganjarrard · Jul 15, 2014

I am having this same issue!!! I shoot almost exclusively in Silent mode and I'm getting blur or out of focus on almost half my shots with the 70-200 2.8 II. All my other 6 lenses are spot on with the 5DIII but the 70-200 is often blurred or out of focus. At first I thought the lens was just front or back focusing but now I think the IS isn't working correctly. I wondered if it had something to do with the slowing down the camera does to make it "silent". But, I haven't tested it out.

RustyTheGeek · Jul 15, 2014

RLPhoto said:
RustyTheGeek said:

RL, do you have a favorite set of ND filters you typically like to carry? Everything takes up space and weight so I figure you have 2 or 3 that you use that work best and offer the most versatility. I've put off buying these because I figured I would eventually just purchase a variable ND filter from probably Singh-Ray with some filter adapters. But of course that's expensive so I keep putting it off. Thoughts?

http://www.singh-ray.com/shop/vari-nd-variable-neutral-density-filter/

Click to expand...

For my NDs, it's all LEE filters. My polarizers are all B+W screw on and combining both together get me what I need.

I have
1. 2 stop pro glass LEE ND.
2. 10 Stop glass Big Stopper LEE ND.
3. 2 stop resin hard and soft edged LEE NDs.
4. All the wide angle adapter rings.

If I use a polarizer, I use B+W Kaesmann x-s slim mount filters then the Lee system on top. It works pretty well @ 17mm with some slight vignette but disappears by 19mm. I have no vignette if I just use the LEE system alone.

Good filters are worth the cash and actually hold some value over time. I like to buy once and use them for years instead of cheaping out and getting something subpar and having to buy again. I don't have experience with Singh ray filters and Don't own a variable ND.

Thanks for the ultra-fast reply post RL! I agree and do the same, buy the higher quality filters, etc and keep them a long time. Cheap = disposable which has it's merits/uses as well but most of the time I prefer a much harder, more durable filter that will last for years and provide better images along the way. For instance, I use cheaper clear filters when shooting swimming because the chlorinated pool water splashes can damage the filter coatings.

I'll consider your filter method before I purchase. But if I get the variable ND instead, I'll try to provide you some feedback if it works as well as I've read some photographers have said.

AvTvM · Jul 15, 2014

Hehe ... I hear you!

Luckily there are summer cash-back actions going on right now in many european markets. All the lenses you mentioned are included, except the brand new 16-35/4 is ... of course that's the one i am after, too!

E.g. http://www.canon.at/summer-cashback?WT.ac=SS_Summer_Cashback_2014_AT
Can be combined with 5d III and 1D-X deals for more savings.
http://www.canon.at/cashback_eos5dmkIII/

Straightshooter · Jul 15, 2014

IsaacImage said:
Straightshooter said:

R1-7D said:

It's not really big deal, much more bothering me dust on the sensor in 1DX bodies.
This is really huge freaking deal for me, as you are thinking more than twice when you stoping down the aperture to F8.

Click to expand...

Fully agree: Dust on the sensor = BAD! Dust in the viewfinder = SHUT UP and go take some pictures!!

Click to expand...

Jul 14, 2014

Marsu42 said:
Roo said:

I've never tried a 6D but a few weeks ago I saw some photos posted in the sports section and said if anyone questioned the 6D's capabilities I'd refer to them to that thread...

Click to expand...

It's not about getting *some* shots right, it's about reliability and the keeper rate. The 6d's tracking is medicore, though as written above it depends on the movement type and it's easier with large targets in bright light so you can use all af points (as there's only the choice between 1 and 11).

I've got top-notch running horses shots from the 6d, and I could say they're taken with a 5d3 or 1dx and everyone would believe it. That's why posting some nice sports shots doesn't mean anything unless he/she states how many shots were missed. For some sports, this should be ok as the scenes get repeated so if the 6d misses you can just try again. But for mission-critical work like tracking a "once in a lifetime" wedding ceremony - no, I'd rather use one shot mode thank you very much :-o

Exactly. As I've said before, I and many others shot sports in the days when focus wasn't auto and your burst rate was limited by how fast your thumb could push the film advance lever...and I got good shots – but the keeper rate was very low. Getting what amounts to a full 'roll' of exposures of an action sequence with every frame in focus is a real joy.

Jul 14, 2014

yoms said:
I personally do not recommend the use of the B+W XS-Pro filter.
I shared my experience of a broken filter here : http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12130.0

Just my 2 cents...

Interesting. I use toploaders constantly, and I have all three sizes of the Lowepro Toploader Pro (65 AW, 70 AW, 75 AW). Several of my lenses have XS-Pro filters on them, and I've never had that issue. I use an XS-Pro filter on my 70-200/2.8L IS II, and I've carried that in the 75 AW with the 1D X and 2xIII TC - a very tight fit where closing the zipper is putting a fair bit of pressure on the camera/lens (and the zipper!), still no issues.

wsmith96 · Jul 14, 2014

slclick said:
Leave your feet on people! Let's not let the rest of the world, Non Photo Gentiles, think we are a bunch of weight conscious weenies!

Image Quality over weight or get out of the darkroom. (Or Internet Forum)

I'll cut you some slack if you are injured, disabled and whatnot...there's the 100L 2.8 Macro for that.

I guess I'm a weenie half of the time. ;D

GAS · Jul 14, 2014

I went through the same dilemma in the past after I got the Canon 5D mkII, 24-105L. Originally I picked up the 100L as a portrait and macro lens due to the IS feature. Soon after that I picked up the 70-200L f/4 IS for traveling because it is smaller and lighter than the f/2.8 IS II version, and GAS got the better part of me so I sold the f/4 version to finance the 70-200L f/2.8 IS II upgrade.

If you have the money then buy both, but IMHO it is not worth the extra cost specially the extra weight because the f/4 IS is just as sharp, contrasty, and nice background blur as the f/2.8 IS II when both are at f/4. Except that the f/2.8 is faster and can blur the background a bit more because of the wider aperture. And, if you have the bad case of GAS then I would go with the 70-200L f/2.8 IS II other wise you will always yearn for the bigger and faster lens.

mrsfotografie · Jul 14, 2014

And this one was cropped from 3:2 to 5:2.

Jul 14, 2014

I would be wary of using a wax based product as this may affect the leg locks. I could be wrong but I would hate to be right!
I have 3 carbon Gitzos - all are consistently fed a diet of almost complete neglect and they thrive on it!

LetTheRightLensIn · Jul 14, 2014

Aichbus said:
I actually own the 1.4II, the 1.4III and the already mentioned Kenko Telepro. I could do a field test with the three, but am too busy for that. But I can say that the Kenko is the best value for money. It has even an advantage over both Canon extenders and I wonder why nobody ever mentioned that: It doesn't add barrel distortion. The 1.4II does it and the 1.4III does it to a lesser extent. But the Kenko performs best in this area. The Kenko has the added advantage that I can use it with my 70-300 L and my 6D and not lose autofocus. I use the 1.4III with my 600 L IS II to have a better autofocus performance and also because Digital Photo Professional has lens correction data for this combo, which of course isn't the case with the Kenko. But if you have the 1.4xII consider the Kenko, it might save you quite some money!

It depends as to whether the distortion is an advantage or not. The Canon TC were designed to give inverse distortion to some of the super-tele I believe. So end result might potentially be less distortion with the Canon TCs paired with the pariticular super-tele each was most aimed at.

sagittariansrock · Jul 14, 2014

The longer lenses need polarizer all the more, IMO.

tculotta · Jul 14, 2014

Hello forum members,

I am looking to put together a day trip to South Monomy Island (part of Monomy NWR) on Cape Cod (at the lower "elbow" where the Cape turns up towards Provincetown (more about the NWR in the last paragraph and you can also google the NWR's site, too). Here is how it works: the ferry company will provide boat transportation to the island and include a naturalist to provide guidance, answer questions, and keep us clear of restricted areas. We would be dropped off on the island in the morning and picked up at the end of the day. You can bring packed food and you can "stage" backpacks or whatever gear you'd like (coats, etc.) where we are dropped. What I need is five people who want to go for a great day of photography or just nature watching. The cost is $420 for the boat ($70 per head [I'll pay full fare like the rest] plus I'd like everyone to contribute an extra $15 to tip the naturalist and the boat pilot - proportionally more for the naturalist). If you are interested, please email me at culottat at gmail dot com. I am looking to go during the week next week (week of Monday July 21st.) Weather and surf can scuttle the trip so it can't be planned too far in advance; I'd firm everything up by this week's end based upon forecasts and conferring with the boat provider.

Also, if anyone would want to split a hotel room somewhere within striking distance of the island, I'd like to know and if anyone wants to "commute" together from the Connecticut shoreline east of New Haven, I'd be open to that as well. I'm also willing to "share" my 600mm, TCs, and tripod during the day, although my photography needs will take precedence.

The island was separated from the rest of Cape Cod by a storm in 1958 and that was split into two islands by a blizzard 20 years later. That means that there are a limited number of people who visit the island since the only means to get there is boat (or swimming - not advisable in seal waters as you know what eats seals). The highlights are great birding and large numbers of harbor seals that beach themselves to soak up the sun. There are also deer and owls among other creatures plus a lighthouse.

I hope I can pull together five more people.

Thanks,
Ted Culotta

bseitz234 · Jul 14, 2014

eos650 said:
There is a switch in the battery compartment that shuts the camera off, when you open the battery door. I know it's a long shot, but see if you can find that switch and activate and/or deactivate it with something. It might be jammed.

My wife dropped her PowerShot and had a similar issue. It would no longer power on, so she bought a new one. A few months later, when I had some time to play around, I got a tooth pick and used it to probe the battery door switch. It had somehow gotten jammed. The toothpick freed the switch and the camera sprung to life. It is still working today.

Like I say, it's a long shot, but it's worth a try. I could certainly see something similar happening based on the description of your issue.

My brother had a 7D with this problem. His was a huge dust bunny messing with the little switch, so the door wasn't actually open, but the camera thought it was. Agreed, it's a long shot, but its worth looking at...

mackguyver · Jul 14, 2014

Re: Stacked TCs - 5diii + 1.4x III + 2x II + 600 f 4 ii +moon

scyrene said:
applecider said:

5diii + 1.4x III + 2x II + 600 f 4 ii +moon

The "old 2x tele ii" does stack with the 1.4iii here are some moon shots from inside Portland city limits. I really like the definition the shots are adjusted for WB and contrast as well as exposure. Most are reported as F8 but must be f11, LV tried to focus but rarely did. No extension tube used.

Click to expand...

Good stuff. The moon is a great target for this sort of thing. The mark II 2x will stack with any of the others afaik, as it has such a deep recess at the rear (it has to go in front of the others). The camera won't register the fact there are two - it will only recognise the TC closest to the lens, so exif for aperture and focal length will be incorrect as you've noted. I wouldn't bother with autofocus, but IS works as normal

+1 and I've also found that AF is useless (phase and contrast AF) with the stacked TCs, but manual focus isn't as hard because of the thin DOF. Nice moon shot!

jalbfb · Jul 14, 2014

I was able to turn on the grid display but it does not show up in the 3x3 pattern but at this point I'll take it. All of the menu controls were set at default and I thought I had gone through each one but must have blown by VF display setting. Thanks for the help everyone. Much appreciated!!

slclick · Jul 13, 2014

LetTheRightLensIn said:
tiger82 said:

It will be a 1D Mark V in a 7D size body, hence the change to 1Dx because it is full frame.

Click to expand...

no

This is so crusty and tired. It will be made of Unobtanium, have a crop mode, you will be able to control your Saeco machine via wifi, it will take 10 pounds off of women and smooth all wrinkles off your Shar Pei.

Look it will most likely have fast fps, a dual digic something, dual cards and be priced above the 6D and below the 5D3.

Beyond that we'll know when we'll know. Why on earth are people speculating it will and should have features above the 1D line is preposterous. The only thing I see it having better than the 5D3 is interchangeable focusing screen capability and AF. And if it has a new AF it will not be far more advanced than the 5D3 but only incrementally better. Perhaps only in a way that benefits Servo modes.

Valvebounce · Jul 13, 2014

Hi Neuro.
I don't know about customising the time, I didn't check that, perhaps I shouldn't have added that to the mix. The metering time seems to be about 6 seconds after the last adjustment on my 7D, I just checked, over 30 seconds fiddling with exposure compensation then waited a while and then fiddled again, then after another 6 seconds or so the screen dropped the metering info so it does stay active even if you can't adjust the time.

Cheers Graham.

neuroanatomist said:
Valvebounce said:

I was going by the way my 7D works, that also says live view, silent shot and video. I'm sure it is the same in all shooting modes...

Click to expand...

I believe it applies to Live View only. Keep in mind that in live view and movie modes, the mirror is up and metering is done off the main CMOS image sensor, whereas with VF shooting the dedicated metering sensor in the pentaprism housing is used. It's logical that the settings would be different.

I don't think it's possible to change the time metering remains active on the 5DIII, or any body outside the 1-series. On the 1D X you can fully customize three separate time-outs from 1 s to 60 min – metering and AE lock (default is 6 s), FEC and multispot metering (default is 16 s), and metering after shutter release (default is 2 s).

IsaacImage · Jul 13, 2014

Please 14-24 F2.8 !

Too_Many_Hobbies · Jul 12, 2014

I only have the Sigma 120-300 sport, but would agree that it is surprisingly sharp and quick enough to capture birds in flight and other fast subjects. I personally love the flexibility of a zoom lens, so all things considered I chose this lens over a prime. I often use it with the 1.4 teleconverter with (at least to my eye) excellent results. I also use it with the 2x and have no problems there if I stop it down a little (2/3 of a stop). With no teleconverter I feel it is great even wide open. Compared to the 100-400 that I have the Sigma is night and day sharper and is my go to unless I'm walking around with my 2 year old in which case the weight/size is too much and I take the 70-200 F4 or 100-400.

To me it came down to
Canon (lighter weight, I'm sure sharper especially with the 2x teleconverter wide open, and I'm sure faster autofocus)
vs.
Sigma (light enough for me to hand hold, [although I find it a bit too front heavy with the 2x teleconverter, and I still have no idea why Sigma thought it was a good idea to make their lens hood out of lead], much cheaper, and zoom flexibility. Sharpness and autofocus speed are good enough for me, so those really didn't play much into my decision.

I guess it depends on what you plan on using the lens for. For example, for small birds that I can get really close to, the focal length hit you take when at/near minimum focus distance is annoying, but for everything else I've been shooting I'm very happy.

MARKOE PHOTOE · Jul 12, 2014

nebugeater said:
Question for the OP

Was this quoted as a rider to your home owners / renter policy or as a stand alone policy? Not sure how much but that will have a pretty good impact on rates

The quote I received was from another insurance company and not my home insurance carrier. I didn't want to tie these two together as Neuro had mentioned.

Jul 12, 2014

That's a consequence of the etched screen (which refracts light well from a steep illumination angle) vs. the non-etched transmissive LCD.

MadHungarian · Jul 12, 2014

Some quick googling didn't reveal anything. I need to evaluate the new lens before the 30-day return window is up, but without DPP lens correction data, it's probably not really a fair evaluation.

wsmith96 · Jul 12, 2014

Thanks, I'll check it out

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