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privatebydesign · Oct 10, 2013

nightbreath said:
privatebydesign said:

Because of the way our eyes work yours looks way to magenta and mine looks way to yellow in the gif.

Click to expand...

My personal feeling is that you can achieve either magenta or yellow result with the left RAW file, but not the orange I have achieved with the right file. Do you want me to send you the RAW files over to play with?

No need for the RAW file, and thanks for continuing in a civil manner, too often these discussions descend into insults. I appreciate a true conversation

Anyway, here I have pushed the yellow to orange, way further than your right image, just to make a point you don't have to choose yellow or magenta, you can have orange if you want. I did this in the ACR Camera Calibration panel only, just hue and saturation on the three channels. I believe your discontent between the two capture systems could be mitigated to effectively nothing if you readopt a robust calibration inclusive workflow.

Dianoda · Oct 10, 2013

SPL said:
So, I have a Canon 600EX-RT and a Canon ST-E3-RT. I have to say these are great and have had a lot of fun getting into off camera flash. But,…I would like to expand to 2 or 3 more flashes. Does the ST-E3-RT work with any Yongnuo flashes or does anyone think this may come around in the near future,..or am I going to have to get more 600s (ouch,..$$$!)

I don't know much about the prospects of compatibility w/ future yougnuo flashes, but as far as buying more 600-EXRTs goes - if you are patient/internet savvy, the cheapest option would be to buy them refurbished from the Canon direct online store when they put refurbs on sale. I bought all of my 600's for a little less than $400 each ($373 before tax w/ free shipping) using a page monitor plug-in for chrome browser to monitor in-stock/out-of-stock status during sales (the app checks for changes in the web page every couple of minutes and I get a notification if a change is detected - so I pretty much know immediately if an item I am interested in comes back in stock or goes on sale). I'll probably regret giving away my secret, but... screw it, I have pretty much all the gear already.

surapon · Oct 10, 2013

ajfotofilmagem said:
ECRoyce said:

surapon,

something you mentioned in your initial inquiry looks like it went unmentioned so far (unless I missed someone's comment). mAh is the capacity. it is literally milli-Amp hours, mA x h = mAh. theretically, 2000mAh would run a 0.1amp draw for 20 continuous hours, or a 20milli-amp draw for 100 hours. It has nothing to do with the amount of power hitting your device, or the 'size of the pipe' (which would be voltage).

So your concern that your flash would be damaged by the higher mAh is not a valid one. Think of it as a larger gas tank. I WOULD however, be concerned with construction (which battery could split/leak components inside your flash damaging it chemically) and the reliability of the cheapo brand, and like others have said, self-discharge rate (loss of power while not in use).

Eneloops like everyone says, are good due to their low self-discharge properties. Another Low Self Discharge battery I have tried with decent success so far is Tenergy brand Centura model. They are a little cheaper to compete with Sanyo's Eneloop line and to me seem to be 'as good' comparing to the ones that I have, but of course Sanyo has the longer track record with their design.

Click to expand...

Sorry, but your logic is flawed. Yes, the capacity measured in milliampere per hour is related to the time at which the battery can supply the rated voltage of 1.2 volts. But... The actual voltage at the time of a peak current drain naturally falls. ??? I remember that alkaline batteries have actually 1.7 volts when new, but drops to 1.1 volts, at the moment of recycling flash. : On the other hand, the Ni-MH batteries has 1.45 volts, but when the flash recycling, drops to 1.2 volts. Thus, at the time of peak current drain, NI-MH batteries provide higher voltage than Alkaline batteries. 8) Now, imagine a hypothetical NI-MH battery that has truly 8000 milliamps per hour. : With such capacity, the voltage drop would be smaller. Perhaps would drop to 1.4 volts, providing flash recycling time faster than ever (4 x 1.4 volts = 5.6 volts). It turns out that the flash supports 6 volts when in standby, but provides for a natural fall at the moment of recycling. If does not happen this fall, it would cause overheating of the flash circuit which was not designed for such high voltage. Another practical example: If the flash work with nominal voltage of 6 volts, we can use lead acid batteries 6 volt and 1800 milliamps (external) without causing damage to the flash. But if we are to make thousands of shots without changing the battery, then use a lead acid battery 6 volts and 8000 milliamps... ??? And the flash recycle time will have a super-duper fast because the voltage drop will be null. : The result is that the flash circuit will be toasted because of the excess voltage not dropped at the time of recycling. :-[ Bottom line: If a device is designed to use 2000 milliamp battery safely, you should not use battery with much higher amperage than that. :-\ Of course, to obtain a secure long term use without replacing batteries is the accessory "Canon CP-E4" that transforms the correct voltage, using 8 batteries simultaneously.

Thousand Thanks, Dear Teacher, Mr.ajfotofilmagem.
Thanks for great Infor.
Have a great Day, Sir.
Surapon

Oct 10, 2013

For me my invite don´t look like an product annoncement.

But we will see. There are a lot of camera and lens prototypes out for testing.

Oct 10, 2013

There are no errors in the 5D Mark III.

All errors that people have reported and Canon don´t have fixed until today are outstanding features of the camera.

K3nt · Oct 10, 2013

True. I on the other hand use Yongnuo 622C radio triggers to get HSS off-camera. Works great and cheap too.

Lawliet · Oct 10, 2013

FunPhotons said:
Unlikely since it's just a RF transmitter.

The only RF transceiver with a back channel to date. The flashes report their state to the controller, telling you whether a hidden flash is ready. If one overheats it at least wouldn't allow the "ready"-light to come back on, probably locking all strobes.

KKCFamilyman · Oct 9, 2013

Thanks everyone. I did get a brand new 5d 3 from canon today. They sent me a center pinch cap for my 24-70 ii which was a nice bonus. I did sell enough gear to get a 5d3 2nd camera but am still on the fence since the 6d seems nice for a backup and gives some lens money but unsure since all the canon gear seems at fuul price or near. Any suggestions on who has deals?

jm · Oct 9, 2013

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/indepth/photography/hands-reviews/zeiss-otus-55mm-f14-apo-distagon?BI=2466&KBID=3296

Botts · Oct 9, 2013

Skirball said:
Having prices drop from the original introductory price isn't exactly a theory, that can be supported by heaps of data. The claim here was the price it was going to hit, and it was done with a fair amount of chest thumping. I'd say it was way the hell off.

My favorite line from the whole thing:

"People who claim this pricing could never happen would have conveniently "forgotten" by then or remain mum when that day does come..."

Heh.

I was trying to be friendly and diplomatic!

Hector1970 · Oct 9, 2013

Hahnel are a very good and reputable company. Their batteries are good. Ive found them amongst the best. Opteka are good too. Their wireless trigger equipment is excellent.
I'm very confident in buying their gear. It's never let me down. Their HQ is in Ireland but they are a German family firm I believe. It's a good combination. German engineering with Irish ingenuity.

TrabimanUK · Oct 9, 2013

It's for charity...

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-24458783

and people are saying $4K for a lens is a lot! ;-)

Marsu42 · Oct 9, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Marsu42 said:

...they *might* some day come up with a affordable finger print detector that cannot be easily fooled

Click to expand...

They already have...the iPhone 5S.

That's what I was thinking about - one day after release the fingerprint sensor on the iPhone was fooled by the very same method that worked for years (text in German, but there's a video with English subtitles: http://www.heise.de/ct/artikel/Der-iPhone-Fingerabdruck-Hack-1965783.html)

Btw there is a nice Mythbusters episode about this, they try to fool a "never circumented before, ever, really" commercial sensor on a door with an even less elaborate method. And they discover that you just hold a bed sheet in front of you to beat a motion detector

Mythbusters: Holy Sheet

Explanation here: http://www.securitymagazine.com/articles/mythbusters-are-busted-1

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 8, 2013

ahsanford said:
hpmuc said:

This has already been discussed ....

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=12416.0

Click to expand...

Good forward, thanks! Looks like my lenses are not in the 'partial sealing' camp (besides the front element).

But I still would like a read on the viability of this concept for just dust and sand. Again, moisture isn't a concern for me.

- A

There are going to be those who swear by it, and there will be skeptics like Neuro and I.

The fact is that there is no reliable data, so if it makes you feel safe, get it. Its not likely to cause any problems other than a loss of your money.

Zv · Oct 8, 2013

thedman said:
mrsfotografie said:

7enderbender said:

dilbert said:

7enderbender said:

It would change the way they provide such high mechanical quality. Dare I say that for me it's really the other way round: why doesn't Canon provide any digital full frame body that works reliably as a full time manual focus camera only? Answer: very few people would be buying something like this in this day and age. But I'd still prefer it.

Click to expand...

You don't use live view for manual focus?

Click to expand...

No. Never. I can't stand it. If live view was gone I wouldn't know it.

Click to expand...

+1

Click to expand...

As a landscape shooter I use live view/MF almost exclusively. I even set my autofocus lenses to manual and use them just as I use my Zeiss. I want absolute precision. Can't just hear a beep and hope it's correct.

What's wrong with Live View? Why wouldn't you use it with the x5 & x10 zoom view? You must have immaculate eyesight if you can get focus bang on with viewfinder alone.

R1-7D · Oct 8, 2013

Waiting sucks... :-\

surapon · Oct 8, 2013

Policar said:
surapon said:

Policar said:

It's up to you! For many reasons this lens seems to be far and away the best normal lens available for FF digital cameras (apparently exceeding Leica's expensive options), however if you need autofocus (this seems to be more of a studio lens) I would skip it.

For astophotography I can see it being amazing and the apochromatic correction means that colors are much purer in out of focus areas. If you have the money and want the best image quality I think this is a no-brainer, but if you're happy with your Sigma (I have one, too, and like it for what it is), why upgrade unless you feel you're missing something?

I find the longitudinal chromatic abberation on other fast 50mms very ugly, whereas I find the sample photos from this lens to be flawless and have a look I associate with medium and large format photography.

Click to expand...

.

Thank you, Sir, Dear Mr. Policar
Sorry, I do not understand what you talking about " For astophotography I can see it being amazing and the apochromatic correction means that colors are much purer in out of focus areas."----I do not try to get involve of Astophotography yet, Just try to shoot the Moon and the comet( Comet Panstarrs) in past 5-6 years---Just Try.
Have a great day, Sir.
Surapon

Click to expand...

The moon isn't the best example of astrophotography since it's so bright. For photos of stars you want to shoot wide open to minimize the time your shutter is open and most fast lenses have coma and soft corners:

http://intothenightphoto.blogspot.com/2013/02/overcoming-coma-aberration-part-2.html

50mm is a little long for astrophotography, but this could still be really great for that.

Apochromatic correction eliminates "bokeh fringing." In these photos (with the excellent 35mm f1.4 G Nikon lens) you can see that the out of focus areas take on green/magenta fringes:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/images1/35mm-f14-afs/bokeh/D3R_3745-14.jpg
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/images1/35mm-f14-afs/D7K_6803-crop-0600.jpg

This is most apparent in the second photo (white against black), but it makes all colors look cloudy and muddy.

If you look at photos taken with the Zeiss lens, they do not have this aberration:

http://diglloyd.com/articles/ZeissZ/ZeissZ-Otus-55f1_4.html

To me this is a really big deal. The 70-200mm f2.8 II IS is also near-apochromatic by most accounts and people praise it for its beautiful color rendering. Current fast 50mm lenses have lots of bokeh fringing, which I find very distracting and ugly in color.

Thank you, Sir, Dear Mr. Policar.
Wow, I have learned form you again to day.----Beautiful / New Knowledge for my future Hobby too.
Thanks again
Surapon

TommyLee · Oct 8, 2013

sdsr said:
As someone else has suggested, unless 2.8 isn't fast enough you may want to consider the 100L instead of an 85 - the Canon 85s, whatever other virtues they plainly have, suffer horribly from blueish fringing (different from the standard purple CA) wide open around pale objects that aren't quite in focus. I've never seen that (or any other visible flaw for that matter) with my 100L, whose only flaw is one all macro lenses have - it doesn't focus fast if you switch suddenly from a close subject to a distant one (or vice versa). And, thanks to its greater focal length and very short minimal focus distance, you can conjure up marvelous background blur that gives the 85L and 135L a run for their money (for all I know all this is true of the non-L 100mm macro too). Its advantage over the the Sigma 85mm lens (which is otherwise excellent - or at least the copy I rented was) is greater mechanical consistency - i.e. you will be less likely to need to return it. The 100L's advantage over all the 85mm and other 100mm lenses for Canon is that it has IS, which can be useful.

As for 35mm, I've not used the 35mm L. The 35mm IS is excellent, as is the Sigma. both of which I rented when they were new. The advantage of the former is its IS; the advantage of the latter, aside from the obvious speed factor, is its superior performance with regard to coma - which matters if you do much shooting in low light where there are small, bright points of light; this is nicely shown in the respective reviews at lenstip. (Unable to decide which one's relative advantages mattered to me more, I procrastinated until the ridiculous short-lived Adorama price reduction on the 28mm IS occurred and bought one of those instead - it's excellent too.)

yes...I agree..............
by the way...the non-L macro performs pretty similar to the L - I.S. version

my DO-ALL kit is a 14mm II, sigma 35 f1.4 (one of the best performing lenses I have owned) and the 100L because it does so much...
MAYBE the 135 f2 or maybe the 85L II ... but these are specialized and yes they are great..

but to go for a walk in Portland, Paris or Chicago... I want ultra wide (14), ultra-fast normal(35 sig) and maybe a bit of telephoto from the 100L macro... for a close up museum or flower shot
these do most of what I need....and have nearly flawless delivery

14L II has removable fringing but NO distortion, Sigma has NO ISSUES IMO, 100 macro is not as fast aperture as ...say ....85L or 135L but ...as stated here ...can get close and MAYBE derive more back-blur than the other two teles... 100L is plenty fast to focus... if you dont ask it to go from 8" to 100 feet in an instant..and back again

the kit is small...
but
if really small is wanted try 14L II, 35 I.S. and 85/100 non-L(but they have fringing wide open..)

I.S. becomes very useful on the 100mm length... with no optical issues IMO
nothing touches the 35 sigma ...that has autofocus...

I await Canon's re-attempt at a re-release ...another try...with a 35mm L II ....
of course the price will be 2-3 times the sigma....

Marsu42 · Oct 8, 2013

pensive tomato said:
Thanks for your work with Magic Lantern! This also brings to mind the silly limitations on the behavior of the Set button that I thought you tackled as well.

Yes, SET has the option to quickly set the af to the center, and it's easier to reach the points with the multicontroller. This feature is already merged into the ml 6d dev builds...

... unfortunately the "focus patterns" feature is one of the cases of broken Canon firmware, you can only select one af point at the time and not for example the three right ones (like 60d and all other 9pt) which would have been great since on the 6d they're not cross. On the other hand, crippling this could have been deliberate on Canon's part.

Oct 7, 2013

I also have the Fuji X-E1 and XF35, XF55-200, XF18-55 and Samyang Lens, great for travel due lower weight. Now with hand luggage allowance getting less, it's becoming a more viable system for me.

For the quality, the Fuji system is not that far off my Canon equipment and for a lot less money. Future wise, I will use the Canon system for mainly action and sports and where weight isn't a restriction. Mostly my camera equipment is used for travel so my future is looking Fuji. My Fuji next lens are the XF14, XF10-24 and the XF23. Also waiting on the next Fuji X-E2 or Pro2.

I can see my future not upgrading my 5DMKlll like l did the 5D and the 5DMKll. I like the size of the 6D and also GPS, which I hope will happen in the Fuji cameras in the future.

I think when a full frame mirrorless system comes out, I think it might change a lot of peoples choices.

Just my thoughts :-\

My Nikon D600 is used for work, which in fairness earns me the money to buy the other systems, so I can't knock this camera ;D

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 7, 2013

Kenko and Tamron are both excellent, and are the same basic lenses. Sigma does not have a good reputation, maybe they will up the quality at some point.

PhotoCat · Oct 7, 2013

Hello all,

Can u store more than 3 user defined picture styles in 5D mk ii?
Read from Magic Lantern forum somewhere that this is not possible/dangerous for now.
Any workaround other than carrying a laptop to upload the picture style files to camera?
I suppose I can do it in post with raw capture but if I can get the effect I want in jpg, I save a lot of
post processing time

PS: I shoot raw+jpg all the time.
Thanks! John

zlatko · Oct 7, 2013

Dylan777 said:
You will never see a lens cap in my camera bag. All lenses are protected with BW Clear Filter, including X100s. Ready to shoot at all times.

I do the same. No need for lens caps. The B+W filters do a great job and are easy to clean.

Random Orbits · Oct 7, 2013

J.R. said:
Well ... I returned the 16-35 yet again (didn't get third time lucky). This was the third copy I checked and didn't like it wide open - stopping down to f/8 or so was better but I can get the 17-40 if that was my main purpose.

Maybe I need to look elsewhere ... the 17mm TSE perhaps ... this just seems to go on forever.

The TS-E 17 is a great lens. Biggest drawback is lack of AF. If you can get around that and its cost, it's a winner!

Jamesy · Oct 7, 2013

I was pondering whether or not to bring along my 70-200 for an upcoming trip to Vegas and the Grand Canyon via helicopter that will land at the bottom of the Canyon for roughly 30-40 minutes.

Here is my lineup:
5D Mk.3
Canon 17-40
Canon 24-105
Canon 50 1.4
85 1.8
100L
135L
Canon 70-200/F4/IS
Canon 1.4 TC

I was thinking the following for sure:
5D Mk.3
Canon 17-40
Canon 24-105

**Optional**
70-200
1.4 TC
50 or 85 prime

I have a Benro travel angel carbon tripod too but obviously trying to keep the size of the kit down for this trip.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance

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