Ricoh GR - 28mm

So I bought this little black box of a camera to take over from my 5dM3 for photography - something that was a bit more manoeuvrable and subtle. Also has focus snap, so you can define the focus distance - so built in zone focussing!

Here's a selection of some of my stuff over the last couple of weeks of ownership.

Evidence by dancook1982, on Flickr

Had a fall by dancook1982, on Flickr

You can get three times as much for the same money by dancook1982, on Flickr

R0020629 by dancook1982, on Flickr

R0010429 by dancook1982, on Flickr

R0020705 by dancook1982, on Flickr

R0020326 by dancook1982, on Flickr

Canon FD 500mm f/4.5 L drop-in filter

Hi guys!
I have a question for those who know about FD lenses. I've been trying to find a ND filter for my alod Canon FD 500mm f/4.5 L. This lens has a compartment for filters, but is not the gelatin kind but glass made. It has a 48mm diameter and it can be screwed in and out of the tray.
I have attached pictures so you can understand better.
My question is: could I buy a normal 48mm ND filter to use with this lens instead of buying the holder again? Has been really hard to find the original parts and I've had lucky with polarizers only.

Hope someone can help me.
Many thanks!

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Looking to replace my 5D Mark II with either the 6D or 70D. Please Help!

Moviemaykr said:
Someone mentioned that if I go with the 70D that my L series lenses might not be a good choice with that camera. Does the 24-105mm 4.0 and the 70-200mm 2.8 not work well with the 70D? I also have a Canon 50 mm AF 2.5 macro lens I could use as well.

That was me. One of the criteria you added as an advantage of the 70D was its video AF. That particular feature will be a real let down if you stick with your L lenses (or any non STM lens):

rs said:
As good as the 70D's video AF is, using it with anything but an STM lens will leave you selecting manual focus every time - USM lenses have AF which is far too fast for smooth focus, and the end result is choppy AF which not only looks bad, but gets loud as it stops/starts all the time:

http://petapixel.com/2013/08/26/video-comparing-canons-usm-and-stm-lenses-using-the-70ds-dual-pixel-af/

Plus of course the angle of view will change with the crop, so your primes and zooms will all frame very differently. In other words, if you swap out your 5D mk II for a 70D, you'll also need to swap all your nice L lenses for cheaper, slower STM lenses to utilise it to its full potential.

Get a 6D, and you'll not lose out on any cutting edge features (or framing) you're paying for by sticking with your current lenses.

For stills and for manual focus video, the L lenses and the 70D are great. Just don't expect video AF to be anything you'd use in reality with USM lenses.
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Gear for 9 days trip to Utah National Parks

sanj said:
Dearest friend. That seems like too much equipment. My helpful suggestion is to reduce a bit. Why do you think you need more than one camera?

Dear friend and My teacher Mr. sanj .
You are right, Sir------For this trip, I just only need EOS-M with 18-55 mm Lens and 12 bottle of water on my back.
Yes, I am right too, Because of the Windy and Dusty ( Dust mini tornado in the parks) all the time, and If I change the Lenses to just one camera body---Ha, Ha, Ha = So many UFO in the sky of all photos.
Thanks you, sir for your great comments.
Surapon
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Preproduction EOS 7D Mark II Cameras in Brazil for World Cup

jrista said:
LetTheRightLensIn said:
jrista said:
The crazy thing is that storage space doesn't seem to be advancing as quickly as it use to anymore. It was quite a number of years ago that we hit 2Tb....then a few years ago that we hit 3Tb, and now only recently have 4Tb drives have begun to become "affordable" (the ones with TERRIBLE access times are still around $150, and the ones with faster access times are still in the $220-$300 range). There are less than a handful of 6Tb drives on the market, and only LaCie seems to be selling 5Tb hard drives...both of which are at lest $300 a pop if not considerably more expensive.

While larger hard drives, all built with the same semi-reliable technology that has been plaguing computer users for decades, trickle slowly onto the market, our data use needs are RAPIDLY growing. As video, especially 4k video, becomes more accessible, I think 48Gb worth of video files is only the beginning! :P And as still image sizes skyrocket to 40, 50, 70 megapixels and beyond... Yeesh...I shudder to think about the costs of storing it all. Cloud services aren't even remotely "there" yet when it comes to space/dollar, and then you have to deal with transferring tens or hundreds of gigs across the wire.

Yeah I really wish some of that next generation tech had come to fruition already. We need ultra fast many TB reliable, safe storage, yesterday!

Aye! I really wish multi-TB sized 10 million hour MTBF SSDs would finally hit the streets. I picked up a 500Gb SSD recently for $200, which was a STEAL...but it was still $200...and for only 500Gb. :\

Really can't wait until I have three or four terrabytes of SSD drive space zipping along at 600Mbit per second or more. :D

Three years ago i bought a vertex III 240gb SSD. It cost me £400 and was state of the art. Now I can buy a 500gb Samsung (a better drive) for less than £300, so the data capacity has doubled and the price has come down a lot.
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AF Performance 70D variying from lens to lens - Anybody else this problem?

Hi xps.
There is loads of information out there, if you do a little googling it will help you understand the differences between AFMA and CPS calibration. You really should AFMA each lens to your body if it supports it before trying to make comparisons to eliminate (or reduce) the effect of manufacturing tolerances and wear variation between samples.
For info on sample variation you could do worse than read Rogers blog at lens rentals!

Cheers Graham.

xps said:
All lenses were adjusted by Canon CPS in spring this year. But only on their "home" cameras.
Ok, the sharpness will be influenced by that, but does AFMA influence the AF performance too?
Same situation, my lens got about 60% sharp, the worst of the three just about thirty? But why?
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This thing's gotta go!

privatebydesign said:
That has been asked before, and I seem to recall the Mods answer was that as Fred Miranda is already has a sales area that is well set up, moderated, and has a good reputation, that another competing service didn't make much sense.


Good point, and I have purchased their Upload and Sell subscription and have sold a few and bought a few. But I have only 30 posts there compared to a 1000 here, (FWIW ::) ) and the forum posting system there is still a bit odd for me, and I don't feel like I know anyone there... :(

On topic: I am usually extremely attached to all my stuff (photographic and otherwise) up to the point that I have sold them. But I also dislike clutter to the point of obsession and have a small apartment.
Unfortunately the former force is stronger, so I keep finding ways to efficiently pack away unused stuff... 8)

At this point I have an EOS 650 and some film that I cannot give away or sell. Works fine, and I use it once in a while. Using IR film might be a good use for that, suggestions?
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Forum software (upgrade) wish-list

Canon Rumors said:
We are moving to vbulletin in the next 15-30 days.

Post Rating will be included.

Collapsing Threads will be included.

Not sure about your third suggestion, I'll look into it.

There will be a few hiccups with vBulletin, most notably everyone will have to reset their passwords. Some threads will also get bumped when imported and some posted images will disappear. We're working to make it as smooth as possible.

Tapatalk will be installed on the forum.

Not sure about a whiners section. :)

Categories for specific cameras, that may be required and I'll think about it. The issue is moving current topics to the new boards.

Thanks
CR

I realize this thread is a couple years old, but has any headway been made on integrating Tapatalk access? Were these plans scuttled?
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Ye Olde Film Photography

I started with film also…developed my own film in college and for a few years after. Always wanted to convert the downstairs bathroom into a darkroom, but never happened. I miss it, it was a lot of fun, but digital is so much easier. I did learn a lot and I think I can still kinda smell the chemicals today. I agree with several people,…it was always very cool to see that image come to life in the developer tray. For several months now, I have an itch to pick up a 500 CM and give 120 a try…
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Mt Yasur, Vanuatu lens advice

Synkka said:
I haven't been to Mt Yasur but I was recently in Vanuatu I didn't see any wildlife worth using a telephoto, I only shot with a 14mm the whole trip for seaside landscapes.

I never shot on a volcano, but, fromwhat I read, I think it's pretty important to have something wider than 'just' 24mm. Depending on your Budget, a Rokinon/Bower/Samyang/Walimex 2.8/14mm, a Tokina 2.8/16-28mm, any Zeiss UWA prime or even the new Canon 4/16-35 would certainly serve the purpose.
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Wide Angle to go with a 70D

I would not buy the Sigma, as I heard to many bad things about the quality control. The Tokina 2.8/11-16mm is for APS-C an absolute top-notch performer IQ-wise. But for me, it is important to have a bit more reach than just 26mm (35mm equivalent). To not have to change lenses all the time, I love having something in the 24mm range(38mm FF equivalent). That's why I went with the Tokina 4/12-24 II. It is nearly as good as the 11-16 optically and there is a new version out, the 4/12-28mm, which should be even better. In your case, I would go with that one.
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Having issues with focussing. I use Combo (50mm f1.4 & 5D Mark III)

It does sound like it's working (because you get good focus on your AF point) but that, after a maximum aperture of f/4 on your 24-105mm, you are just now learning the delights and challenges of shallow depth of field.

Also, while this lens is a good performer, as you get down to the max, f/1.4, things tend to soften a little dead center, and significantly out to the edges of the frame. And don't expect the sharpness to be perfectly symmetrical--that is, even with a great body, good AFMA, and an excellent copy of the lens, there might be one edge or corner of the frame at f/1.4 that is somewhat sharper or softer than others.

But the lens is TONS of fun, can produce awesome images when all things (exposure, composition, focus, lighting, subject) align, and is so light and convenient. I tend to use mine on a 60D and can get some very cinematic types of results.

And my AF is accurate and super-quick. I really do need to use it on my 5D3 more often, but I will admit I'm in the queue for the Sigma 50mm Art, chasing that slightly better image quality and edge to edge sharpness like a junkie chases a high (some might say...).
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Lens repair?

Mt Spokane Photography said:
You can buy a good functioning one for 600-700 dollars, so paying for a broken one that probably cannot be repaired, or which may have additional serious issues once the repair company opens it up, is a huge risk.

The risk is actually pretty low. You can sell broken camera equipment on ebay pretty easily exactly because someone out there probably needs it for parts. I see broken, out of production lenses and camera bodies going for half or more of the value of a functioning copy pretty often. I'd be willing to bet that a lot of the people buying broken gear on ebay are the camera repair shops looking to stock parts.
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New Full Frame Camera in Testing? [CR1]

dgatwood said:
IMO, the default rendering is what you get when you compute the color information using the camera-provided AWB color temperature value from the RAW file's EXIF data. Any other color temperature value is a user decision, whereas the camera-provided AWB value is what the camera believes to be "truth".

When what computes the colour information? Every program that does the computing will do a different job, the relationship of colours within that program can all set the same WB but still render colours completely differently.

Here are three versions of the same image and they all have the same WB, but the colours are very different, which is "correct"? All I did was tweak the red channel in the camera profile tab. There is no "native" in rendering RAW files, there just isn't.

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