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Canon Announces the Development of New High Sensitivity Sensor

I shure the production cost of this sensor don't exceed price of the 1D X's sensor. It have only larger microlenses above pixels and no more. It provides 3 stops sensitivity over. If you want to see how this sensor shots on 102400 ISO, you must shot by Nikon D4 on 12800 ISO by 2.7 crop mode (about 8 times less area than Full Frame).
But the Canon is very greedy and try to extract the greatest profit. Therefore the price will be overrate to >1000%:( So, I want to see in market at least a Sony NEX-FS100, upgraged to Full Frame (2.25 better sensitivity) by price about $8k.
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Canon succeeds in capturing nighttime video of Yaeyama-hime fireflies using dedicated 35 mm full-fra

Re: Canon succeeds in capturing nighttime video of Yaeyama-hime fireflies using dedicated 35 mm full

kimvette said:
klickflip said:
yeah thats great! ... But Canon comon how many people are going to professionally shoot in near darkness?

R&D have lost the plot seriously.

That you do not have a use for it does not mean that others do not. Why high ISO sensitivity is good:

* Great for high speed shots outdoors
* Great for normal shooting indoors
* Great for astrophotography
* Great for night photography

Who could put that tech to use?

* photojournalists
* astronomers (pro and amateur alike)
* wedding photographers
* sports photographers
* spectators at airshows
* event photographers
* art photographers (shooting priceless art at museums w/o flash)
* architecture photographers

That you lack imagination does not mean that others cannot put the capability to use immediately.

According to your post I just say: soulmate. Being a happy camper with my 5D3 since August 2012, I am looking forward to what will be around in the 5D league about six years from now. I was having much fun with my trusty and rusty 30D for five years till I upgraded to FF. So six years on, another purchase may be as exciting as it was when I unboxed my one year old baby... 8)
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Upgrade: aps-c or full frame

neuroanatomist said:
erda said:
I shoot more landscape than anything else, although animals, birds, sports, and motorcycle racing are also of interest.

At f/8, ISO 100 from a tripod,it's going to be hard to tell APS-C from FF. If you need to crank up the ISO for a fast shutter, FF will have an advantage. If you need to track a fast-moving subject, the 70D/7D AF will be an advantage over the 6D. If you need both high ISO and AF tracking (which you often do for animals, birds, sports, and motorcycle racing), the 5DIII delivers.

I'd agree with all that, though I will say if you plan on using EF L lenses, then a 17-40 (or 16-35)will be a 27-64 on a full frame. And if you need something really wide because you can't walk backwards, full frame will deliver. Though the Tokina 11-16 works really well from what I've been told, so there are options.

I think you could do sports and motorcycles using the center point of the 6D, but if you try movement on the other AF points, it won't do nearly as well. Obviously, you would adjust your composition of the shot in post.

This also has been beat to death, but your lenses will usually make more of an improvement than a new body (usually), so it depends on what you have no and what you are willing to part with.
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Finally a rumor again...

Mt Spokane Photography said:
Lichtgestalt said:
mountain_drew said:
Except that this website cites their sources if it's picked from the internet, which it usually is because it's not very good...

excuse my bad english... but what do you want to say?

He is saying this website is not very good, but still is posting here. He posts something that really is not answering the question, or is useful... to set a example??

Ignore my misunderstanding
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Canon 200-400 and Adorama

RGF said:
My last few purchase have been through Adorama because their customer service has been pretty good. The other big NYC retailer has, in my experience, been a lot more "too bad, so sad" with me.

2% more might not sound that much but for such a large purchase that, for me, would be a bit of an emotional purchase, it is the difference between feeling really good every time the lens is used vs. a reminder once in a while about the missed out money.

Good job, Helen.

Understand about the importance of the 2% and how it can make you feel valued by the Adorama.
[/quote]


We will always do our best! And, as always, if you ever need any additional advice or support with an order from Adorama, you are most welcome to email me directly: [email protected]
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I need some flash advice...

surapon said:
A= MONO-POD
B= CUSTOM BRACKET FOLDING " T"
C= RPS STUDIO, MODEL RS-03102 MULTI-FLASHES HOLDER.
D= HARDWARE CRAMP.
E= DETACHABLE BASE AND HOTSHOE MOUNTED.
F= CANON FLASH 580 EX II
G= GRASLON 4100F, FLASH MODIFIER--MAIN LIGHT = BIG SOFT LIGHT WITH MINIMUM SHADE AND SHADOW.
H= PHOTTIX ODIN, TTL + TTL ii FLASH CONTROLER/ WIRELESS TRANSMITTER FOR 3 GROUPS 12 FLASHES.
I= PHOTTIX ODIN- TTL + TTL-ii FLASHES RECEIVERS.
J= CANON FLASH 580 EX.
K= STO-FEN OMNI-BOUNCE( diy MODIFY) FOR CATCH LIGHT AT EYES OF MODELS.
L= CANON 5D MK II AND CANON LENS EF 24-70 MM. F/ 2.8 L USM.
M= CANON OFF-CAMERA SHOE CORD TO LINK CAMERA AND PHOTTIX ODIN TRANSMITTER

http://www.dpreview.com/articles/0304434791/accessory-review-phottix-odin-ttl-flash-trigger-for-canon-

Awesome! but geeky...
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Canon 6D Viewfinder Junk Accumulation

duydaniel said:
Do not touch the focus screen
This gets scratch very easily!!!

Fortunately on some camera's it's easily replaced (although it takes some balls to do it on a new camera though; I was rather nervous changing the focus screen to EF-S on my (then) brand-new 5D MkII. After installing it I found a speck of dus had gotten behind the screen so I had to take it out again, blow it clean and reinstall it. Scary stuff but I enjoy the results! I do have some dust in there by now again but not behind the screen. I'm leaving it as long as it does not get too bad or until the sensor shows dust.
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Please explain how multi-group ettl preflash works?

Lawliet said:
for a:b both are metered seperately to find out how much power each has to provide to get the desired lighting ratio.

Interesting, in that case it's even more strange Canon doesn't allow three independent a-b-c groups with independent fec for the optical legacy system if they do 3 preflashes anyway...

privatebydesign said:
You can select HSS and ETTL in pre 2012 bodies, it just is nowhere near as consistent as non HSS ETTL, I get regular +/- 2/3 exposure variation across HSS + ETTL use where as for same framed images ETTL by itself is very consistent.

That's very valuable information, I might be experiencing the same thing with the 60d - though it's hard to pin down where the problem is, but I'll keep watching for it if I do optical (I still have a 430ex2) vs. rt.

privatebydesign said:
I am just very glad they left us the ability to actually select our standard sync speed with the RT system on the pre 2012 bodies.

Yes, somehow doesn't sound like them :-p

Lawliet said:
There just might be some weirdness gremlins be lurking in there.???

Like marketing gremlins :-> ? ... but ok, there really might be hardware contraints due to the amount of preflashes, but even if not Canon almost never backports such features anyway. I still think optical fallback with a 2 or 3 group constraint would have been possible to keep on using optical flashes while rt are linked via radio at the same time.
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Rare opportunity to get some nice L glass which would you pick

Ohh yeah it is from canon and legit. Not from a offsite. They screwed up a repair 4 times over and ruined a few small jobs and an event.

ah i see. what luck! though it sounds like you had to earn it with some grief.

sry for being such a downer earlier...i'd rather play devil's advocate to help someone avoid getting screwed though. there has always been so much scam in the photo equipment business that when it sounds too good to be true then it most certainly is.

shame you couldn't pull the trigger on everything though. at those prices you could have sold a few of the peices and probably gotten what you wanted for essentially free.
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Where to buy in Japan

(Part 2)

Yodobashi (and Bic) will have pretty much all brands, (current) models, new lenses, etc. This includes mirror-less and compact cameras. They also have filters, bags, tripods, etc. (Yodobashi seems to carry more stock than Bic).

If you are looking for DSLR lenses, there is a "camera outlet center" in the underground level of JR Osaka Station. (I'm sorry I don't know the name off-hand, but I will check next time I head into Osaka). They have most Canon lenses "new" (I haven't seen any of the super-telphotos there, but pretty much all the more common focal lengths, tilt-shift, etc.). The prices are competitive with the big camera stores, and they have a fairly large selection of used lenses. (My own experience: I did not find the savings on the used lenses compelling and wound up paying a little more for new versions of the lenses. However, if you are buying multiple lenses, it might make enough of a difference). This store also sells used camera bodies (digital AND a huge stock of old film SLRs).

That camera outlet center is not the place to go for mirrorless cameras though--they sell a few kits, but at least the last time I was there they didn't have many lenses (new or used) for any of the systems.

Some of the old guide-books might talk about used camera shops in "Den-Den Town" (another part of Osaka). However, over the last few years all the camera shops in Den-Den Town have closed and it has become an anime / manga zone. If you are interested in anime by all means visit--but don't waste the time going there specifically for camera stuff because there isn't any.

Finally, if you are interested in Nikon, there is a Nikon Outlet Center at the "Sanda Premium Outlets" just north of Kobe. You can do a Google search for "Sanda Premium Outlets" for directions, etc. I only visited once about two years ago, but I wasn't familiar enough with Nikon pricing to draw any conclusions from my visit. It is kind of far from Osaka and Kyoto, though, so I wouldn't make a special trip there unless you are really keen on Nikon.

Hope at least some of this is helpful; please let me know if you have any questions, and I'll see if I can find out the name of that "outlet center" in JR Osaka Station soon.
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Leica Lens M-50 mm. F/0.95 NOCTITUS M ASPH

rs said:
@!ex said:
If you want something exotic and faster than the canon 50mm 1.2, then look on ebay and find the canon 50mm 1.0L....
Yep, that's the answer if owning a 50 faster than f1.2 on a Canon DSLR is your quest.

Unless of course you want a very fast 50 macro lens - then the Leica lens on your Canon would be good. The Leica M mount has a flange distance of 27.80mm, and Canon EF is 44.00mm. If someone was to make an optics free mount adapter that was just 1.8mm thick, that and the difference in flange distance would be the equivalent of using an 18mm extension tube. Infinity focus would be far from possible, with the minimum magnification probably somewhere around 0.40x.

If you're determined to use the Leica 50/0.95 on a FF camera other than a Leica, I think you're only option is the Sony NEX-VG900 and an M to E mount adapter. I'd much rather one of the Canon 50L lenses on an EOS body, or a Leica body to mount the Leica lens on.

Thanks you , Sir, Mr. Rs.
Yes, + 1 for me too, I would like Canon Lens on Canon Camera Body---Because of 99 % - Nothing can go wrong with the connection - except the 1% poor QC. on that Friday late afternoon in the MFG.
I might Look at Canon FD 50 mm. F/ 0.95 + the FD to EF transfer Ring for my EOS body, Plus the 35 mm. Canon Cameras that I have 6 of them in my Dry Boxes.
Thanks again
Surapon
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Rumored Sigma Lenses Coming in the Next Year

ajfotofilmagem said:
Terry Rogers said:
Professionals, please enlighten me. Would not a 24 - 90 2.8 or 28 - 90 2.8 be an "ideal" walk around lens. While I don't shoot full frame, I would imagine a lens of such focal length would be ideal for a general purpose lens given it's 2.8 (as opposed to f4) and is long enough to reach the "ideal" portrait focal length of 85/90mm.
Technically it is possible to make a 24-90mm F2.8 lens, and it is also possible make a 35-70mm F1.8. ::) The question is whether the size, weight and price are competitive to sell well, given the other options in the market. A lens 24-90mm F1.8 is the dream of many people, but if costs $ 4000, weighs 3 lbs and is the size of a juice jug, in fact, would be a nightmare to use it. :'( Not everything that can be done must be done. ;)
In the 90's Canon developed a trial copy of a 24-105mm f2.8 which was apparently very good optically. But it was the size and weight of a 70-200 f2.8 and was viewed a too big and bulky for what it offered by those who tried it. Lets face it for f2.8 gear there is little reason to overlap focal ranges, 24-70 / 70-200/ 300 is the usual split.
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Suggestions for hot air balloon festival

cellomaster27 said:
Oh nice! I've always wanted to take pictures up in a balloon!

Only one lens?? well... Just my thoughts: UWA, telephoto and maybe a tilt shift? Depends on the scenery.. You could get some interesting shots of the landscape below.. Making them look miniature? I would take those kind of shots with the TS. Wide general purpose for maybe inside the balloon.. Occupants/self photos. Tele for other balloons and their occupants. And for things far below? If I was forced to take one lens, UWA. Have fun! Oh and wear a strap like a blackrapid. Lol

Thanks for the advice, especially about the blackrapid strap. I just got a RS-4 (Classic) in the past week, but have not had an opportunity to use it yet. Definitely sounds like this will be a perfect, first-use situation!

Also like the tip from RGF to wear a vest. I don't have a vest or any holsters yet, but will look into that this coming week. Would be nice to have a 17-40 on the camera and a 24-105 or something else on vest/holster. Could also carry a T3i or M as 2nd body.
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Yongnuo RF-600 won't work in live View

dmbrown said:
I have a 60D and they won't work in any of the live view settings either. I am not able to control the flash through the camera external flash settings. It says the flash is incompatible. I can shoot fine with a 430ex ii and a Yongnuo YN-560 II, both controlled by the RF-600, but all settings with the flashes are manual. Shouldn't the TTL work with the RF-600?
With the Yonguno RF-600, you cannot control the flash through the camera, it is meant only to communicate with the receiver to trigger the flash, that's all it can do i.e. you need to manually set the flash output on the flash unit itself.
If you want to control the flash through the camera, you need the newer Yongnuo flash trigger YN-622C (for Canon) or YN-622N (for Nikon).
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Canon partially relented

Mt Spokane Photography said:
They were giving gifts for upgrades to gold or platinum that were worth $100, so its not actually a bad deal. The free cleaning and repair discount will pay for its self the first time its used. However, its not for everyone.

Oh... I will definitely take advantage of the gold option when I finally deem it time to have my body and lenses cleaned... but I just go through gear SO quickly that it rarely ever gets to that point to where I NEED to have it cleaned in order for it to sell.

So one day... maybe.
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Is the future USM or STM? Or both..

Mt Spokane Photography said:
Bob Howland said:
neuroanatomist said:
I don't think we'll be seeing STM used in L-series lenses. AF during video is a consumer 'feature' - pro video shooters focus manually (often with a whole host of accessories to facilitate that - looking at a complete dSLR video rig, it can be hard to spot the camera!).

According to the professor at RIT's Imaging Arts & Sciences school that I asked, that isn't always true. For documentaries, where subject/talent motion isn't tightly controlled, AF is routinely used. Where the motion is controlled, yes, MF is used. At the time, he was conducting a shoot with two of his students at a local historical village, using a Canon XF305. Because of the subject matter (static Civil War cannons being fired) AF was used to set focus, then MF was used to hold it. Without MF, the camera kept trying to shift focus from the Cannon to the smoke.

Some high end camcorders do have autofocus, and for TV and documentaries, they use AF.

However for Cinema or high end commercial use, the use of autofocus is rare, in fact, few if any Cinema cameras or lenses have autofocus. I don't think Panavision makes a autofocus lens, for example, and the Zeiss Compact Primes are manual focus. Sometimes there is a bit of footage inserted into a movie taken with a camcorder, but its not the rule.

Its just a matter of what level of professional use you are dealing with. Does the professor belong to ASC?

Haven't a clue if he belongs or not. I didn't talk with him all that much. All I know is that the documentary is supposed to appear on PBS nationally some time next year (confirmed by a museum employee). I explicitly asked him about AF vs MF because I'd already concluded what he confirmed, that it isn't a matter of amateur vs professional but rather a question of how much subject motion can be anticipated and/or controlled. It makes sense that, for an expensive feature film or commercial, greater efforts would be made to control everything possible, not to mention putting their expensive talent through multiple rehearsals and takes.
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