Guaranteed it will breach the Nikon price. I have yet to see any Nikon or Canon equivalent lens price below the competition if it is newer.

So expect a 800mm IS II that surpases $18,000. I am thinking a nice round $20,000 at 3kg.

JohanCruyff said:

A bit off-topic.
Tamron & Sigma lenses are expected to perform better on Canon than on Nikon mount, in my opinion.


We have to consider that Nikon crop factor is 1.5, while Canon's one is 1.6 and, therefore, an APS-C lens optically developed in order to get both mounts should have (slightly) less vignetting (and better transmission, maybe?).

Click to expand...

For this reason, third party lenses would perform better on Nikon crop bodies, not Canon. The 1.5 crop sensor are like mini-FF compared to Canon, which means a bit less enlargement.

I think they are very good. Here is a review of them using the 5D3. Works very well and I use them all the time with the 5D3 as well as my EOS-M:

Eye-Fi Mobi Review, Setup, and How to guide

grog13 said:

mrsfotografie said:

It may depend on the body....

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I wondered about that. And the only body I have right now is the eos-M, so it does do quite a bit of back & forth. When I had another 70-200 in the past (used with SLRs of course, mostly 40d & 50d) there was not so much "indecision" on the part of the camera.

Click to expand...

There you go, the 'indecision' is the cause, just as is the case with my 70-200 on the 5D2

Just to try to drag the thread back on-topic, here are my favorites in each row:
1d
2a
3d
4b
5c (d had less noise, but seemed oversmoothed)
6d (d had less noise and seemed "sharp enough", but I get the feeling that if there were more detail it would have looked oversmoothed)

I want to thank the OP for making this comparison, and would be curious to see more of the same. I know a few issues have been pointed out in the thread, and a second pass might be even better.

If I had the time, what I would do is download the raw files of a standard scene from somewhere (I thought dpreview posted them somewhere, but either I am misremembering, bad at searching, or they took them down when they added their scene comparison widget) and convert them yourself using lightroom with the same settings, except scaled so that the image sizes are the same for the different cameras. You can even keep them as tiffs until final conversion to keep everyone (less un-)happy.

Oh, and how about a less inflammatory title for the next thread? : o )

neuroanatomist said:

Jim K said:

Once I bought my 5D3, my 70-200 f/4L IS moved from the Birding group to the new Landscape group. It does nice work there. It still visits the birders on occasion.

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200mm on FF can work for birds, but you have to get close...


EOS 1D X, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM @ 200mm, 1/60 s, f/2.8, ISO 125

Back to the OP's point, while a 400mm prime can be used for landscapes, it's likely not ideal. I and others have mentioned using a 70-xxx or 100-400 zoom for landscape shooting, but how much of that is at the long end? For me, many are in the 70-150mm range. The 100L Macro also makes a very nice landscape lens...


EOS 1D X, EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM, 1/100 s, f/5.6, ISO 200

Click to expand...

Great Photos , Sir, Dear Teacher.
Surapon

I bought a couple at Don's photo and they had Canada/USA warranty cards in them. I'm sure the Vistek ones are the same (both stores are Canon authorized sellers).

The flashes are still $20 cheaper at Don's. Check out this thread:

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=16680.msg308098#msg308098

http://donsphoto.com/spec_sheet.html?catalog[name]=Canon-Speedlite-600EX-RT-canon-flash&catalog[product_guids][0]=799012

Got my 1D X 'fixed' today for the AF service advisory issue. Given some of the 'horror stories' above about poor packaging, etc., I took advantage of a work-related day trip to New Jersey to bring it in person to the Jamesburg, NJ service center (about a 20 minute drive from where I needed to be today).

Despite being short-staffed (only two of their six technicians were in, the rest are out on vacation), since I was just down for the day from Boston, they very kindly serviced it while I waited. Took less than an hour including a free sensor cleaning.

Thanks, Canon!

Hi Folks, I have the EF-s 17-85 kit lens from my 40D, I am using it on my 7D which I bought body only.
I have checked the AFMA using the dot focus method and find that from 50-85 I need 0 to +1 for centre point of dot method.
The problem arises as I get down to 17mm I am out of AFMA points starting at about +10 and still going at +20.
I had the ribbon cable repaired recently though I don't think this has caused the problem as I see that older pics have the same OOF problem.
My question is, is this normal for this lens, if not can it be easily dialled in as I see this is the end I use most.
I do not wish to spend any more on this lens and I am not shy of getting out the screwdrivers if I can find someone to tell me which bit affects what. What I don't want to do is experiment with adjustments and screw up the end that is in focus!
It is possible that the best bit won't be having the lens fixed but fixing it myself!

Cheers Graham.

This topic has been moved to Technical Support.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=16818.0

There are a number of really good splash housings out there (SPL, Del Mar, Aquatech, CMT, Essex, and more). These are specifically meant for above water photography though. I had an SPL for my 30D for about 5+ years and have since moved onto CMT for my 1DX. It is lighter and more streamlined which is key for such a big rig.

Canon guys are at the back

Hi Sama,
I bought one of these for my 40D, fitted it and hated the way it felt in the hand, can't really put a finger on what it was though, it fit real snug, did not slop around, did what it was meant to do! I just didn't like it, much prefered the feel of the bare camera. Also I wasn't convinced that it offered enough extra protection to justify putting up with the way it felt, I put it back in the box and put it on the shelf.
I do however keep looking at the box on the shelf and only a couple of days ago I thought I should try it again, thought as the 40D is now my backup to a 7D it might benefit from the extra protection.

I would see if you can hold a camera that is wearing one before you buy one as this is a very subjective item!

Hope this is of some help to you.

Cheers Graham.

Edit I also use the 2 piece GGS screen protectors on my cameras and found them a good fit and easy to apply.

Re: Canon Expands Its Cinema Prime Lens Family to Six Models with the Introduction of the New CN-E35

Ricku said:

BozillaNZ said:

Disguised 35L II is out in the wild! When will the real thing come?

Click to expand...

It is already here.

It is called the Sigma 35, and it is actually cheaper than the old 35L.

Click to expand...

I'm sorry but I don't like optical genius coupled with mechanical and electrical junk

tron said:

surapon said:

I just set my Canon 4D MK II at 1 center Spot Focus

Click to expand...

This must be an interesting camera ;D

Click to expand...

Ha, Ha, Ha---Dear Tron.
Sorry , That is my mistake , I should type 5D MK II-----And At that Time , My brain thinking about 45 MP Future 3D, I say NO--I do not need 45 MP DSLR yet, and I just type 4D MK II ----Ha, Ha, Ha
Surapon

One thing I noticed after downloading the RAW files is that the samples in the review video appear to be post-noise-reduction (either from-camera JPEG or noise-reduced in Lightroom). There's a healthy dose of chroma noise in the 1600 ISO sample.

That being said, on the sample RAW image in question, it does clean up quite nicely in Lightroom without too much loss of detail. I can still read the smallest numbers on the tire just fine ("For DOT test and normal highway use in North America and Australia" on the upper left side).

The sample image is a fairly close-up view of a mostly smooth object, though, so it might just be that this particular images cleans up well because there's not as much detail to lose. Still, this is WAY better than what I'm getting right now from my camera, so this still looks like a solid upgrade to me...

You Will be just fine. Enjoy your new camera and stop worrying.

J.R. said:

Did you try to remap the hot / stuck pixels?

Click to expand...

Yes I did. What really stinks is the first one I had that was stolen only had maybe ten now I have 50+ and that's at iso 400 and 10 sec.

85LII > 100L

The images in the link you posted have very shallow depth of field, so as you have said you want to take images like those I would recommend a used 5D, as others have stated. Fast primes do not have to be expensive, and as you are controlling the distance to subject you do not need a zoom anyway.

Can't go wrong with a 50 f1.4 ( well actually you can because used half of them seem to be broken ), 40mm 2.8 is stellar, and if you like the distortion effect coupled with shallow depth of field get a 28 f1.8

Tips on shooting the 5D; use RAW and 100 ISO. Contrast can be abrupt.

Marsu42 said:

Aglet said:

70D has a bit better sensor performance than the 60D, it's pattern noise is negligible compared to both 60D

Click to expand...

Are there any reviews on this yet? Of course the 70d is the better camera as it should be, but the 60d pattern noise was already lower than 7d and probably even 5d2 - and the one "lens cap" shot from 70d still showed the pattern, so I wonder if there's really any noticeable improvement.

Click to expand...

don't know if there's any big site review yet, there's evaluation of it and I put up the samples in another thread here days ago.
started in the rumors section, unfortunately OOPS/

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=16713.0

70D's not perfect, but it's the best crop sensor from Canon since the 40D from what I can tell. It's way less bandy than my 60D at lower ISOs. It did seem to throw up a lot of extra noise with the main display ON tho.

Thought I'd give an update on my problem. The shop concerned was very difficult to deal with, wouldn't return messages etc so as I needed a working lens for my work I bought another copy which worked perfectly - such a nice lens. However it took up until today to get a refund, I sent metadata to them first which showed the fault then the lens once they asked for it. But surprise surprise when they got it they said there was nothing wrong with it and it was my cameras that were faulty. Basically it was weeks and weeks of hassles until today, at least I got a new lens (from another shop) that works a treat and I got my money back, except for postage as they still deny the lens is faulty.

http://nikoninspirations.com/

Canon camera is welcome!!!
Good luck 8)

You are welcome, it sure takes away the need to always use the ST-E£ screen if it is at an akward angle.

I had a question for 60d/7D/5DMK2 users: In many situations, when shooting on M one doesn't have time to adjust shutter, aperture, ISO etc. for e.g. events with moving subjects and areas of varying exposure. I would prefer to shoot Aperture Priority with AUTO ISO (since noise levels are perfectly acceptable to me upto maybe ISO 3200). However, this is out of the question since the camera often selects shutter speeds which are ridiculously low and there is no minimum shutter speed setting like the new Canons or older Nikons. If I choose Shutter priority, the camera will select whatever aperture it wants, which I may or may not need. It seems like AUTO ISO is only helpful in M mode.

I was just wondering, for those of you who shoot in these types of situations, how do you shoot? What are your settings? Do you always shoot on Manual and adjust shutter, ISO, aperture? How does one use AUTO ISO without the min shutter speed functionality.

Thoughts appreciated. Thanks.