Hi,

I'd like to suggest to split up the RSS feeds as suggested.
I don't care too much about offers, anniversaries of Canon gear, reviews and many more rumors-unrelated stuff.

I don't say they should not be posted, as probably there are a lot of people out there who are happy to read about offers for SD Cards or a 6D+Lens bundle, but for me, personally, these are not the reasons I visit canonrumors.com or what I'm interested in when I subscribe to the rss feed...

What do you guys think? Do you like the idea of splitting up at least the feeds in "rumors" and "other stuff" (everyone is encouraged to propose a better naming ;-))?

Best

jdramirez said:

2n10 said:

LOL, funny and unfortunately true. Someone has too much time on his hands or loves to ponder.

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I have a boring job and very few sexy co-workers to otherwise occupy my attention.

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I know what you mean. It would make the job more enjoyable but completion dates would be seriously skewed.

I agree very interesting. I noted that the wildlife folks had pretty much the same lens recommendations. The motorsports shooter gave just about the same recommendations also. I could see the 200-400 as being a favorite due to the extender and the weight savings in travel offered by a zoom tele.

Well I just tried the "manual cleaning" trick as seen here:

http://wiegaertnerfilms.com/blog/tutorials/how-to-fix-a-hot-or-dead-pixel-canon-7d-5d-550d-600d-60d/

And that seems to have resolved it for now.

I'm not opposed to doing that if I need to but it's impossible to see those dead pixels on the back screen and now I've got a trip full of videos that have stuck pixels and I'm nervous it's going to happen to me again. :/

If you want to get one step further, buy an underwater casing. They don't mind sand and allow you to put the camera on the sand. Just make sure to rinse and towel the case first before you open it (in the hotel room)!

Might consider the 4x4 CP or LP filter as well. How many filters are you going to combine the polarizer with? How wide of a lens are you going to use this with?

I know, so much money, and no one carries them on hand. I got the 105mm holder for my Hitech 4x4 stuff, but returned it since when I want to go wide, I really need the 130/150mm stuff.

Re: The Person Behind \

mackguyver said:

R.I.P. Fake Chuck. He and his dirty yet hilarious posts will be missed.

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I didn't even know about the blog until today, and have wasted several hours reading it today.

sdsr said:

On the off-chance anyone reading this cares, my 10-18mm arrived today. Just for the heck of it, to test it out I attached it to my Sony a6000 rather than my SL1 and was pleasantly surprised to see that, even though it's a new lens, the Metabones EF-Nex adapter provides full support for it - AF works even though it doesn't with many older EF lenses (it seems a bit faster with EF-S lenses than with EF), as do aperture control, IS and (I expect) exif data. Given the difference in crop factor, this makes the lens a tad wider/shorter. I look forward to trying it later on my SL1.

I don't want to get into the "who needs IS on a wide lens" debate, and I've so far not had a chance to look at any of the photos I've taken except by zooming in on the camera's monitor, but so far the IS seems impressive - I took a string of photos in a rather dark space with the lens wide open, set the ISO at 400, and obtained images that, without exception, look sharp at 1/8s.

If the camera's monitor isn't too misleading, this lens may be the ridiculous bargain of the year.

(It will be interesting to see whether it can be used on an A7/r similar to the Sony equivalent.)

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Update - at 10mm on an a6000 you don't get 15mm equiv. unless you don't mind the fact that the extreme corners are too dark to remedy (well, maybe with a lot of fiddling that may not be worth the effort). And unlike the Sony equivalent, it doesn't work at all as any sort of ff camera on an A7r; so much for that, then. But otherwise, it works just fine on an a6000 - no extreme corner problems after 10mm, and the image quality is impressive. I look forward to trying it on my SL1....

Thanks for a good laugh ;D

K-amps said:

Very Sharp!

I like it.

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Thanks!

The lens is light and superb. The noise the IS makes is neglible and won't scare off anything you're shooting either.

Stig, that sounds like a nice set if it's been taken care of and can be had for a good price. Florescents are great for studios where you can control all of the ambient light (i.e. make it very dark inside) but are too weak for most settings and are really more for the video guys, at least for now. HMI lighting is what the Hollywood types use and is very hot and very expensive...but some high end photographers use them as well.

Strobes are the best choice unless portability is a concern (especially air travel), and then flashes/speedlites are the way to go.

totally different lenses
what exactly is the nikon 70-300 lens?
is it a nikkor do you have more info
the D80 was a pretty good camera

the old canon 18-55 is crap and basically worthless as far as value goes you can buy them for almost nothing
pretty much the same for the nikon kit lens too

why are you limiting yourself to those options

for $350
this kills both those options a million times over as the glass is pretty damn good much better than the old 18-55 canon lens or the old nikkor one too.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1040896-GREY/canon_eos_m_ml_camera_18_55.html
and its brand new and magic lantern works on it to give tons of extra features

Random Orbits said:

mackguyver said:

GMCPhotographics said:

My advice was to buy the new one outright, compared them and then sell the f2.8....but I guess this advice is a little late now!

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That was my plan, too, but I thought I'd go ahead and get my lens out there before eBay is saturated with them. With 3 days left in the auction, my lens is at $1085 with 12 watchers, so I think I've timed it well. Also, when I get the new lens, I'd rather be using it instead of shooting comparison photos . If the lens isn't amazing, I'll just return it and use my TS-E 17 until the 14-24 f/2.8 or whatever comes out.

P.S. Okay, I admit that I might have to indulge in a few 16-35 f/4 IS vs. TS-E 17 f/4 comparisons...

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The 16-35L f/2.8 II market has softened quite a bit already. I got mine used about 2 years ago for about 1200 (lens, caps and hood only) when most of used copies were going for 1300, and I sold mine on eBay for 1150 (even with 30+ watchers). I tracked a few others before selling mine and they were going in the 1150-1250 (with box, pouch, etc.) range unless scammers were involved (i.e. 0 feedback accounts bidding the prices up).

Ideally, I think I would have preferred a 16-35 f/2.8 III to the 16-35 f/4 IS if it is at least as good as the 16-35 f/4 IS's MTFs. I tried the 24, 28 and 35 IS, and I don't find the IS as useful at these shorter focal lengths, but the 16-35 f/4 IS looks so much better than the 16-35 II that I'm switching now and am willing to lose the 10-20% of the price until the 16-35 f/2.8 II's replacement comes to market, whenever that may be.

Of the 10+ lens I have bought, this is the first that I've ever ordered before it was widely available and reviews were already out. I blame the Canon store's error in giving 125 off the new lens price for my hastiness/impulsiveness. ;D

@GMCPhotographics: I agree that the used market prices for the 16-35 II won't change much now. I've been considering selling the 16-35 II for months, especially after snagging a refurbed Zeiss 21. If canon can design the 16-35 f/2.8 III as good as the 16-35 f/4 IS with good coma control wide open, then I'll be looking to the 16-35 f/2.8 III to replace both the 16-35 and the Zeiss 21.

It's too bad Canon couldn't stretch the 16-35 f/4 IS to be a 16-40 design. All this typing to distinguish between the 16-35 f/2.8, 16-35 f/2.8 II, 16-35 f/4 IS and the 16-35 f/2.8 II replacement (III?) is going to be a pain!

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The 17-40L was expanded at the long end so that it could perform two specific roles. An ultra wide zoom for the full framers and die hard film users. Full frame digital users were very few in those days when this lens was released. The other crowd was the other 99.9% of Canon DSLR users who were mostly 1.6x crop users. This lens predates the EF-s mount. It was envisioned as a cost effective standard lens range for those users (28-65mm effective). The only other option was the very expensive 16-35L and out of the pocket for most users....so much has changed! In those days, Canon saw the 1.6x crop as a temporary thing and had a plan to make their entire range full frame within 10 years. When Canon saw that many users liked the 1.6x crop, they backtracked and started to develop the ef-s mount and lenses. So the long term future of the 17-40L has always been questionable. I'm sure Canon has thought...hmmm, 17-40 f4L needs replacing and it's original mandate is no longer valid....so lets start with a blank sheet of paper...an ultra wide f4 lens...lets make it a 16-35mm with an IS unit....yeah that'll work well.

My version of lake Wanaka

Great review. Sounds like an excellent lens to recommend to beginners to see if they will want/need such a lens as the grow in the hobby.

Second.

First is sterile, distracting, clinical, the yellow is too bright...

StudentOfLight said:

I've heard of a pellicle (pelican) mirror but haven't read up about it, so thanks for the feedback.

My thoughts were that if an image sensor was used then it could do RGB metering as well (instead of having a separate metering sensor on top of the pentaprism) thereby freeing up space for a Wifi or Radio module. However, as you say since the sensitivity/precision is not on par it with traditional PDAF there is no justification. No one would want to compromise AF performance unnecessarily.

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I think it will be a good while before we see focal-plane AF systems comparing to dedicated AF systems. Right now, in the case of Canon's DPAF, they basically turned the whole sensor into one giant line sensor. That's about as advanced as Canon's first AF sensor back in the 80's, which was also a single strip line sensor. Were going to need to see DPAF evolve into QPAF, where the sensor can be read twice, once for a horizontal line sensor and once again for a vertical line sensor (now were up to the late 80's/early 90's); beyond that were going to have to see advancements that bring us multi-orientation phase detection at the focal plane (horizontal, vertical, and both diagonals in directions 90° perpendicular); were going to need to see significant improvements in the speed and accuracy of focal plane AF (at this point, I believe the low-light edge will disappear, and fall behind that of dedicated AF sensors, since right now the sensor can be exposed for longer to support very low light AF...but when speed becomes critical, image sensors are WORSE than the huge pixels of dedicated AF line sensors at sensing in the dark), etc.

Focal-plane AF is in it's infancy. It's trendy and cool right now, and it brings new capabilities to the table for a new class of digital camera. But that new class of digital camera is demonstrably at least a couple generations behind DSLRs in terms of critical functionality. It will mature, and at some point mirrorless cameras will ultimately become superior to DSLRs in every way, including AF, but that is a very long way of into the future (especially with the bulk of western economies, the US and Europe, effectively rejecting mirrorless at a mass scale at this stage.)

DPAF, as much as everyone here loves to talk about it (probably because it's really the only key sensor innovation from Canon in quite some time), is really a very simple, minor EVOLUTION of prior focal-plane AF technology. Canon took the next logical step, but overall the technology is in it's infancy. DPAF, if one were to rank sensor innovations from the last three years, ranks pretty low overall. It isn't the kind of magical technology everyone hopes it is...it's just a basic evolution of technology that already existed in a simpler form.

Canon really needs to be radical with their sensor innovation to really make anyone start thinking about them as an innovative leader in sensor technology again. They need to move to a fully on-die image processing pipeline (move ADC onto the sensor die), preferably go hyperparallel, also preferably move to either a dual-stage CDS (analog and digital) or at least a digital CDS, etc. All of this would really require a die shrink...which means Canon needs to move to a 180nm process. Even if Canon does that...it still isn't going to make DPAF a particularly intriguing or compelling technology in the world of CMOS image sensors. Even if Canon moves to QPAF (I haven't seen any such patents yet), that would still be a minor evolution of DPAF...it still wouldn't rank high among all of the radical innovations that are constantly occurring in the image sensors world.

Hi dgatwood.
Well I made it through my visit to Normandie for the D Day commemorations, the grip did act up again and for longer, refusing to clear the fault by cycling the switch, I could still regain control by turning off the grip controls, so I just used it like that. I like the grip but not sure I will put up with this behaviour much longer, I might have to look for a cheap s/h or pre loved genuine Canon grip. :-\
I will check all the little spring loaded contacts for smooth action first, clean everything, remove reattach, etc to see if I can clear it. I wonder if your fault might be helped by some of the same things, very strange the both of them.

Cheers Graham.

dgatwood said:

Valvebounce said:

So if all the buttons stop functioning and you have a grip, probably especially a third party grip this might help.
For once I'm not in need of help, just trying to give something back! ;D

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I've had a similar problem on my 6D with a third-party grip, but much less extreme than that. The dial beside the shutter release button stops working once in a while, and the way you fix it is to move the matching dial on the grip, and suddenly the one on the camera starts working again. Very bizarre.

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Mt Spokane Photography said:

If you are doing weddings, have a backup! Its Rule 1.

Don't go out and blow all your money on a new camera without having a backup, a new one has higher odds of dying soon than one that's been in use for a year or five,
I'd suggest getting a couple of refurb 60D's if that's what your budget allows. Don't forget, you will need extra batteries for any newer camera model, you will also need SD cards.
Maybe a couple of used 50D's in not a bad choice, then your batteries and CF cards will all work.

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I had my daughter's xti as a backup to my 5D mkiii... let's just say there was a drop off in quality... so I upgrade her camera to a sl1... Not as good... but in good light... it will suffice if a circumstance requires.

I have a Rokinon 14mm, works great.
But if it breaks I am not sure there will be a viable repair option, especially post warranty.

wickidwombat said:

Shane1.4 said:

The AF on it is more reliable than any of my L lenses. I am starting to wonder if people made up the AF issues because that was the only possible attack on the lens.

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Not made up. its not viggo or eldars style and viggo seems happy with his new lens and its not like its these guys first rodeo either so i expect they know what they are talking about

mine is still working great too

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Thanks! And yes, why would I ever buy a lens and trash it on purpose, I don't work for Canon, I have no interest in saying Canon has a better lens. In most cases they actually do, I still mean the AF of the 35 L on a 1-series is the best 1.4 AF lens ever. But as 50mm's go, the 50 Art destroys the L and all others in EVERY way. I'm thinking about selling the 85 now, because I use either the 50 or 200. Sigma has a gigant winner here, but there is still too poor quality control. Every lens should work when you buy new. Sometimes a lens is faulty, but I have experienced this with both the 35 Art and 50 Art and many others as well. It's absolutely worth to buy multiple copies and get a great one, because it's just untouchable...

Thanks Traveller for starting this thread. Well done to Klaus @ Photozone for a speedy review.. I love his analysis and descriptions... good to read & follow.

I saw the review a day and a half ago, and it confirmed what I thought - another very 'attractive' Canon STM IS lens. When I write 'attractive' - I mean, fantastic value for money, and very decent good image quality (IQ) and few other weaknesses.

Canon have been doing well with all their STM lenses in terms of IQ, general functionality, etc. So it's great to see this being a 'budget' yet good IQ, that complements the 18-55mm STM IS and the 55-250 STM IS.

I can imagine many people going for this lens who want a Canon EF-S UWA on the Canon DSLRs like xxxxD, xxxD, xxD and maybe even the 7D's. It's very competitive against other UWAs out there... and beats a handy few.

I used to have a good copy of the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6, but upgraded to the Sigma 8-16mm, which has even better IQ than either of the Sigma 10-20mm's. Plus it's an extra 2mm wider, which at that width is really noticeable! Here is photozone's review of the Sigma 8-16mm - which interestingly is very similar in sharpness and general other IQ characteristics (eg vignetting and CA's) to the Canon 10-18mm.
http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/515-sigma816f4556apsc?start=1

I hope many Canon APS-C camera owners will be happy owners and enjoy the fun of UWAs with the EF-S 10-18mm STM IS! Looking forward to seeing beautiful images from it.

Regards

Paul

Are you talking about the metallic mount that contains the contact pins and is screwed to the rear of the lens?
I think its best you contact Canon first- they sell many of their user-serviceable parts for very reasonable prices, before going the ebay route.
By the way, make sure to use Japanese industrial standard screwdrivers- these aren't standard Philips heads. I almost stripped a screw- luckily I noticed before I started.

Mind you, if any contact is broken below the mount then you might either have to buy more parts or need to get it serviced professionally altogether. So you might want to take the mount off first and see if there is any deeper damage before ordering a replacement mount. My 2c. But mount replacement by itself is quite easy.
Good luck.