Posts

jrista · May 5, 2014

weilin said:
Ok, I'm sticking to the sticker shock theory ;D. I see what you mean about the non-periodic error that would be an problem. I'll keep looking at my options. This is a very expensive ~~habit~~ hobby >.<.

You have no idea how expensive.

I have some fairly big aspirations. Just check out the prices on these pieces of equipment:

10Micron GM2000HPS UP
PlaneWave 20" CDK
FLI ProLine PL16803 Mono CCD

That's a semi-pro setup. It's what will allow me to get magazine-quality results, assuming I can find appropriately dark skies and some land to build an observatory under. Those pieces of gear are also on the lower-midrange end of the "high end" market....there are even better mounts, larger telescopes, and even better imagers that cost three to five times more.

So yeah, ridiculously expensive, if you get really really serious.

privatebydesign · May 5, 2014

Dylan777 said:
jdramirez said:

Dylan777 said:

jdramirez said:

Just to put a bow on the end of the story... I was able to sell my 580 exii for $322.70 (net after commission). My final cost on the 600 rt is $377.98... making my total upgrade cost $55.29.

So if I hate the 600... I'm coming lookin' for ya'll!!! >-|

I think I need a better flash diffuser... or a better assistant. My flashbender had some harsh t-zones in some of the photos I took today...

Click to expand...

I hate shooting with flashes

Keep in mind, I never own any speedlite prior speedlite 600. It took me about 20mins to fire up all these stuff. The layout is very friendly

First few couple shots with flashes(straight out from camera). Still have a lot more to learn. To have both kids sit still and looking at camera at the same time will be my #1 task ;D

Backgrounds will be next... :

Click to expand...

I've come full circle in regards to flash. When all I had was the on camera flash... I never used it. Then I had a 430 exii that I could use in slave mode and I could trigger it using my on camera flash... and I like it enough... then I had the 580's, an umbrella (still working on getting that 2nd umbrella), and stands... and I really like the result when the result is good. When I screw up the result, well... I won't go into that.

So I like flash... but not as a panacea to bad technique... because it still can detract from an image... but I digress. I like your first efforts. When you have two subjects, I'd suggest shooting at f/8 or so, so both are in focus... There's nothing worse than everything coming together and both are looking at the camera, but one is out of focus and the other is in focus... it is just frustrating and annoying.

Click to expand...

I plan to add two more 600rt to my kits. With two 60" westscott umbrellas and five 600rt, I will feel safe shooting @ f11 to 16, 1/200, ISO100-400

Again, the st-e3-rt makes shooting wireless very simple. However, the price we pay for this feature is high. I'll look forward to Dec deals . I got mines for $450each, NEW from authourized dealer, with 1yr Canon warranty. They also throw in couple off brand umbrella stands and one 60" westscott umbrella.

As a pure power based studio style setup the speedlite route makes little sense, there are much better and cheaper solutions, Elinchrome would be a make I'd recommend, but if you want "the best" the Profoto B1 Air is THE new toy to have, and if you are going to be ganging three 600's, not badly priced and much more powerful than even the three 600's, they do ETTL and radio wireless too.

RAKAMRAK · May 5, 2014

Antono Refa said:
Unless the object is flat, say a coin or a medallion, and the background is empty, say a flat colored background, the photos will not be the same.

It's just like portrait photography, with the nose looking too big relative to the ears when shooting from a short distance - perspective works for the front & back parts of the subject same as it works for the subject itself being in the foreground and other stuff being farther away in the background.

Therefore, if you shoot a diamond ring with the diamond facing the camera and the band away from it, the shorter the focal length the larger the diamond will look compared to the band.

This is actually the answer that I was looking for when I wrote the question. I had a hunch, but probably could not put my question properly. Thank you.

eninja · May 5, 2014

Edited, but nonetheless shows how wide it is, just wide enough.

Andrew Davies Photography · May 5, 2014

ajfotofilmagem said:
Today, I would not buy a longer lens than 100mm, which does not have Image Stabilizer. Yes, the 135mm L is still wonderful, but in dimly lit places the lack of IS would require me to always use faster speeds than 1/125, and this causes problems with fluorescent bulbs, which have random color variations.

There is a consensus that 70-200 2.8 IS II has better sharpness (in 200mm wide open) than the model without IS. In addition, there is the issue I mentioned about the lack of IS when above 100mm zoom.

This will come down to useage and skill not IS for me. In many situations i will be in people will be moving even if only slightly so the faster shutter speed provided by F2 over F2.8 will always be better for my situation than IS.

Added to that the 5D3 at iso6400 and F2 will easily beat 1/125 even in the most poorly lit church its not an issue. The issue i may have is indoor portrait space if i want for the 135.

IS is good in some situations but for me its not a dealbreaker.

Sporgon · May 5, 2014

Interestng looking at the date of the OP. Three years on this lens is still easy to find in Europe - everyone has one in stock.

It's actually much better than on line reviews give it credit for. These reviews have destroyed the second hand value.

philmoz · May 5, 2014

AlanF said:
Could you find out for sure if there is a firmware upgrade as it would be useful to know.

Lens is back - according to the report they 'carried out rom data update to ver 1.05 to overcome servo focus issue'

A quick test shows improved behaviour with AI Servo.

Phil.

apacheebest · May 4, 2014

Thanks for the Update.

traingineer · May 4, 2014

Dukinald said:
May Flowers

Amazing! (ツ)

traingineer · May 4, 2014

AvTvM said:
I want an oculus rift grade evf instead of those laggard mickey mouse vga evfs. Along with a good af-system with af fields all over the place all the way out to the corners.

Zuckulus Rift*

Jom · May 4, 2014

Thanks very much for all the advice, I am so glad I found this site, you guys are awesome. I hope to get to a shop tomorrow or Tuesday, I have no doubt that I will bring a Canon home .

May 4, 2014

Eldar said:
sagittariansrock said:

Eldar said:

Here´s one. Sonnet has a few more you can find at B&H. I only have USB 2.0 on my iMac, so thunderbolt is how I can improve transfer speed. The price is a turn-off though. I was hoping someone had found something a bit cheaper, that worked.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/973464-REG/sonnet_qio_tb_qio_universal_media_reader.html

Click to expand...

How about FireWire?

Click to expand...

I don´t have firewire on my iMac or MacBook, so that is not an option for me.

Geez, $1K for a card reader??

How about a Belkin Thunderbolt Express Dock? For <$200, it would give you both FireWire and USB3 ports for a variety of accessories, including fast card readers.

sagittariansrock · May 4, 2014

jdramirez said:
Personally, I REALLY like having an articulating head.

+1.

May 3, 2014

climber said:
Is there any "shutter time boundary" above which is recommendable to turn IS off or at least it has no effect any more? Like everything shorter than 1/1000 s. I was wondering that when I was shooting sport with something around 1/2000 s. Has IS any kind of effect at these speeds? What do you think?

I'm not speaking specifically for 600 f/4 lens, but for any lens which has IS mode.

I have read that Canon IS has no effect at shutter speeds faster than 1/500 sec - but this is anecdotal so no guarantees. I can say, from personal experience, that hand holding my 800mm works just fine without IS at 1/500 sec or maybe a little less.
As I mentioned in my previous post I have now turned off the IS on all my (IS capable) lenses and only turn it on when necessary - I find this works better for me.

Razor2012 · May 3, 2014

I love shooting events and couldn't live without my 70-200 2.8 II. IMO if you're not shooting portraits and landscapes (for example), you do need that extra speed. No time to play around.

privatebydesign · May 3, 2014

I have 4 personal ones but use another few occasionally, and the ST-E3-RT and the YN-E3-RT, I have had no issues with any of the Canon gear, absolutely rock solid and 100% reliable.

If you are in the USA I'd talk nicely to the service center manager, they have a discretionary 10% they can deduct from your total, and their boss has a bit more too.

polarhannes · May 3, 2014

Be careful about the picture style you choose for the video. Yes, the picture style for jpegs affects video, too.
In most cases you would want to choose a rather neutral, flat style and add the punch in post production. Otherwise you might get a bad histogram.

May 3, 2014

It boost ISO massively to acheive a focus-able image.

East Wind Photography · May 3, 2014

cpagility said:
I have one of the early 1dx models and I had it in Yellowstone for a week in Feb 2013 and Feb 2014 with temperatures ranging to -35 below zero (-45 with the wind chill). I didn't have any problems with it at all.

I sent it in for a clean and check a couple of weeks ago and got a notice back that they were replacing the Mirror Assembly at no charge.

I got it back and the first time I used it on my 500 f4 (which was also just back from a clean and check) it wouldn't focus at all. I went put on my 1div and shot with that then tried my 70-200 back on the 1dx and it was focusing. I tried the 500 f4 again and it was working. I had mounted and removed the lens a couple of times as well as turning the camera off and on the first time I put that lens on and it didn't work. It now seems to be working fine but I'm not feeling very confident that the problem happened the first time I used it after Canon's mirror assembly replacement.

May have been a coincidence. Ive had it happen to me on other bodies and usually just unlocking the lens and relocking gets it going again. I now routinely clean the lens contacts with high grade contact cleaner and a qtip and the issues are less seldom. Maybe once per year. If it recurs you may want to have them check it out again.

Mt Spokane Photography · May 3, 2014

This topic has been moved to Pricewatch Deals.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=20759.0

apacheebest · May 3, 2014

Hi,

i am from South of India, Nice to meet you all at the forum.

Anil George

Jens · May 2, 2014

That makes sense! Thanks

Can anyone confirm question #1

Valvebounce said:
Hi Jens.
I have no idea about the battery in the WFT powering the camera, but I doubt it as from the pictures it doesn't have the pillar that goes in the battery housing to power the camera, it seems to only connect through the terminal block on the bottom of the body. The power supply should be ok to use with the WFT grip as the cord comes out through the side of battery housing.

Cheers Graham.

Jens said:

I have some questions for this grip that I can't seem to find the answers for.

1) does the battery in the grip power the camera as well, and I won't need a battery in the camera?

2) if not, can the ac adapter ack-e6 be used on the camera with the grip on, so I don't have unmount the grip to change batteries every time?

Hope you guys can help

Click to expand...

RAKAMRAK · May 2, 2014

Received my 'working' copy of the Sigma 150mm OS. It is actually the second unit of the lens that the store had to send me. The first unit had its focus mechanism malfunctioning.

I did not have any chance to explore its image quality yet. But here is my first impression of 'handling' the lens. (disclaimer I have not handled any white L lens of Canon).

It seems like a piece of brick. It is actually heavier than it looks. The outer shell seems to use some metal parts - which gives it an even more 'heavy' and 'hunky' feel. The cylindrical hood is pretty large. on top of that if I put the hood adapter (recommended for APS-C cameras) then it almost doubles in length. The OS seems alright. I could handhold and get good sharp photos at 1/10 sec shutter speed.

sagittariansrock · May 2, 2014

Rienzphotoz said:
Brydge iPad external keyboard review

If you want premium, this looks better and offers more protection (and is equally heavy), and is probably slightly cheaper with the $ 20 discount:
http://clamcase.com/ipad-air-keyboard-case/tech-specs.html

Personally, I prefer the Logitech ultrathin keyboard if you don't care for protection and the Zagg or Belkin if you do.

Isaac Grant · May 2, 2014

hand held. I am a birder. I photograph birds while birding. Don't lug a tripod around. So the flight shots are hand held. May be different with a tripod, not sure.

I was early on the list at B&H. that is why I got it so quickly.

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